howardlong

Where have you been? i realised the other day that i missed your tales of extravagant dining and caning the wine lists Did you have that Aubergine £5k meal? ← Well, I find that the amount of time I spend on discussion forums is proportional to the amount of time I have on my hands! Regarding the £5k meal, no, I couldn't justify it, well not unless I wanted to suddenly become single at any rate. Sadly, a member of egullet who is also a journalist (sic) mischievously decided to allow their colleague bastardise and misrepresent the event for use in a gossip column. The event was held but it had to be rescheduled. There were also other repercussions from the event's publication in that gossip column that have left a very nasty taste in my mouth. Never trust a journo unless you know them to be pucker. Cheers, Howard

Hello Matthew The story I was told was that he was so exceptionally sure of himself when he took on the Greenhouse that he had promised to gain a second star by the 2006 Guide, and as such he could command such a high remuneration. Of course, being word of mouth, this anecdote could be a case of "send three and fourpence we're going to a dance", but it was from a reliable source. Certainly as far as I'm concerned it's good enough for me to be confident enough to present it here as a discussion point. Still, I agree that I would have thought that being a 'rising star' at the Greenhouse even without the 2nd star itself is surely a pretty darned good testament. Not quite in the bag, but very close. Cheers, Howard

OK so I haven't posted for a while. Did Noisette last week, and did the inspirational menu. Food was well executed, except for some awful tasting middle eastern cream cheese with the bread sticks to start and a totally uneven spread of rock salt over the venison. One end, that I started with, was hugely over salted but the other end had none so I couldn't taste it. School boy error (on my part of the chef's?). Wine list was done by grape. Now a few years ago I'd have said "Yes" but now I say "No". I've spent enough on my palette now to realise that if you buy wine only by grape in a restuarant, then get the Sommelier to choose for you. For me it's like going into a pub, asking what wine they have, and, if they answer "Red or White" you take a pint of Fosters. Worst things? o Chef coming out to shave white truffle on my macaronio cheese - trying to engage in conversation was disasterous. 35 quid for a very difficult 30 second exchange, but to be fair an awful lot of white truffle was shaved. o Not being able to know what the food is on the inspirational menu so can't choose wine. I let the Sommelier choose for me (see above!). Best things? o Not being able to know what the food is on the inspirational menu so I let Sommelier choose very cheap wines. o Foodwise, an almost complete middle finger to the Ramsay formula, bar the obligatory vegetable soup amuse bouche. o Booze "find of the week" was a prunette liqueur done with small prunes with the stones still in, so it gives this sweet taster an almond feel. Bloody yummy. Question... Is it true Chef was sacked from the Greenhouse after failing to achieve a 2nd Michelin star he'd promised to get to his backers in exchange for £150k pa? Is that old news? Cheers, Howard

Maybe I'm naive, but I presumed that this was a PR stunt to get the name of the restaurant in the papers. ← No I can assure you that it's genuine. Thierry Tomasin is one of very few MCA's in this country (Master of Culinery Arts), an award that is earned and bestowed on only very few recipients. Certainly one thing that Aubergine could not be accused of since Ramsay left in 1998 is trying to pose PR stunts. Cheers, Howard

Since you ask ... ← Yes p62 in the Times this morning, also Times Whine and Dine Article. I am not sure where the £16,000 quoted in the column is calculated. Including VAT there's £45 grand of wine there for twelve. The 1945 Mouton Rothschild magnum comes in at 8 grand, as does the Petrus 1961 magnum, so it's £16k just for those two. I am never surprised at how the mainstream media take pleasure out of such reporting and get away with it. If there was a freebie going I am sure it would be the hacks who would be first up at the bar lapping it up! It will certainly be an interesting chat I'll be having with Thierry and Billy next time I see them. Cheers, Howard

Interestingly I just came off the 'phone to a fellow food and wine lover, who independently said something I'd mentioned to Thierry last week when he chatted about this dinner with me. We agreed that the only thing we'd change on the wines is to go for a 1921 Yquem rather than (or in addition to) the 1967. But this is still just dreaming. Cheers, Howard

A quick totting up from notional prices on wine-searcher.com shows a booze value of £3,750 inc VAT per person. Hope that £5,200 per person includes service... Cheers, Howard

It will also be interesting to see how many covers they actually do. ← They are looking to do 12 covers. Cheers, Howard

Folks Haven't posted on here for quite some time (too much to do, too little time) but you may like to see this: Aubergine Dinner (1.6Mb, you may have to download first then open it if your broswer doesn't have the right viewer). Start saving up now. For me, I'm not sure I can hide the expenditure from the missus. Cheers, Howard [edit: more manageable 58k .PDF version here Aubergine Dinner (PDF)]

I read in an unhistoric Winner review in the Sunday Times ten days ago or so that The Lovely Helena Hell ™ has left the Ledbury... I don't know where she's gone though. That is a lovely drop and always value for money. Cheers, Howard (Editted 'cos my HTML quoting didn't work)

Hi Paula The only obvious in-your-face thing on offer is a signed cookbook, advertised on a small card about 3" by 3" on each table. You can buy the table ornaments made out of cutlery, and I've seen other restaurants in France and Switzerland with exactly the same designs. The only way you know they're for sale is if you comment about them, something I've seen a few folks do. Other bits and pieces are available at the main entrance. Not in the dining room, you have to go up to the bar area upstairs. Cheers, Howard

I guess it must be a case of different strokes for different folks. I am not sure what you found uncomfortable about it, but I'm intrigued - was it the seats, or where you were sitting? I was wondering, how much did you expected to spend, how much _did_ you spend, and what wine were you drinking? Personally I would struggle to call the food bland, even though I have had a couple of times when I have not been over-excited about the food on the menu exceptionnel and the one time I went a la carte, although balance that with the fact that I have dined at LG about twenty times in the past couple of years. I wonder if you were dining a la carte or the Menu Exceptionel? Regarding the two stars, IMHO I have no problem in regarding it as a fair evaluation - I would actually put it at 2.7 stars if there was the choice. I agree with you about this, although to be honest I don't even notice the card on the table any more or the books at reception. I can't say that it iritates me in the way you obviously are! I witnessed an interesting situation in LG last week. An seemingly well-moneyed chap of the old money variety close to retirement was entertaining three other gentlemen, and what can only be described as their 'escorts' for the evening. They were hitting the Dom Perignon and Petrus in a big way. Rather than ordering their starters & mains at the beginning of the meal, they ordered the starters, consumed them, then had the menu back, then ordered their mains. They then decided that they'd complain that they'd had to wait too long for their mains. Silvano tried to explain that the food was prepared and timed to reflect ordering all together at the start of the meal, but it fell on deaf ears. By the way, LG has been completely non smoking in the restaurant since the beginning of the year. If you want a smoke, you must go upstairs to the bar. The old sofa area is now used for dining, and the spots adjacent the kitchen door that sometimes draw criticism are no longer used for dining. Cheers, Howard

Have moved dinner invite to ISO thread here... Le Gavroche 17 Feb 2005 9:30pm Cheers, Howard

I'm not a regular at the Waterside so I don't think I'm in a position to comment I'm afraid. Unless there is an uncharacteristic aberration of galactic proportions, I am sure your sojourn the the Waterside will be wonderful! Cheers, Howard

Totally agreed, pretzels. WTF has happened???? Last time I went to Bluebird, admittedly 3-4 years ago, it was just soooo disappointing and uneventlful I couldn't possibly think of a reason to return. Kind of when Conran was weeping out those last dilutions of his brand. [Although Orrery is an exception] The only way he managed to turn the Bluebird from a garage/cheap Accessorize into a restaurant against the local residents' wishes was to perform political acrobatics (read into that what you will, but I'm sure there's some local government officials are still dining out on it [sic]). Consequently, resident parking restrictions extended from 6:30 to 10pm - something that has swarmed throughout the Royal Borough of Kensington & Chelsea ever since. I also had it on good authority from two separate parties that Bluebird never made a profit, certainly not upto a couple of years ago they weren't. Cheers, Howard

I remember trying to get in there in the eighties. We arrived in out best bib and tucker (corduroy sports jackets etc). The maitre d sneered at us and said something like "non, you must understand the queen mother eats here". We were summarily refused entry. ← Well they've lightened up a little. I was in there last Tuesday or Wednesday, and I arrived (as is customary for me these days) on my push bike wearing smart jeans and a sports jacket with open-necked shirt. This is more casual than I normally do for LG, and I could tell from the way Maitre d' Silvano looked down a couple of times at what was covering les jambes as I entered. I emplore you all to try the Menu Exceptionel on at Le Gavroche that they started last week. To be frank, I went about a month ago just after New Year and I just did not get on with their ME - the second time I'd had it, and the sceond time it just did not get me excited. But now it's a transformation. And, it just gets better and better as the courses arrive. If I dare to remember, after a couple of sumptuous amuse bouches (including the most perfectly done quails egg - an LG masterpiece - yolk still runny even though it's cold) and a tempura'd prawn, it starts with seared tuna. Then John Dory - that I didn't have as they'd run out so I had cod. Then another LG signature - duck pancakey thingies with foie gras. Now I find this foie a bit to dry for me, but as a whole I would never turn this dish down. The main is lamb from the Pyrenees - man, these sheep must be tiny. Basically four tiny chops and the liver - oh, with the liver. Just beautiful. Now things get really superb with the three blue cheese salad with pear. Done as small separate portions, you get Forme d'Ambert, Stilton and then melted Roquefort over pear. I don't know how to spell yumtastic, which is good, because it was far, far, better than that. After this point it appears that I was somewhat overcome because I have forgotten all about the fruity desserts that appeared. Then came the chocolatey kind of over-kill you really need after all the above. With that bit of gold leaf they always do. Sommelier Francois was just awesome as always - he makes me feel like family - I have a couple of interesting stories to tell you off the board ;-) Massive. Don't miss it. Anyone up for it this week before the GF returns from her round-the-world trip on Saturday? Cheers, Howard

I concur - thirty quid including half a bottle of pretty good booze. How I wish I worked in Chelsea rather than spending most of my time in the culinary black hole of Docklands. I firmly believe that the quality of the ingredients used at Aubergine is part of the reason I like it so much. There are certainly no corners cut in that department. My favourites on the menu at the moment are the Quail, Foie Gras & Sweetbread salad starter (although quite where the salad comes in I don't know ;-) ) and the Sweetbread studded with Thyme main course. BTW they are talking about March before signing A-Z over to London & Henley. Cheers, Howard

I take it the rowdy table in the back room then? Do I earn my 10p? Cheers, Howard

Rasoi Vineet Bathia? The Capital? Mju? Aubergine? La Famiglia? GR@RHS? I think we should be told. I did Rasoi Vineet Bathia for the first time last night - I took the tasting menu with wine: it was good, food got better and better for the first three or four courses, but then after the lobster it became a little lacklustre. Service was OK but not the best. Wine list not as good as Zaika's. Finished off the evening at Auergine for desert. As you do. Cheers, Howard

Howard, did you ever met David Harvey? He was the sommelier when I worked there, and he would bring the heeltaps of unfinished bottles into the kitchen for me to try. Delightful man. Last I heard he was working in Cliveden. ← Hi Allan No I didn't - but I am certain that Sam takes my unfinished business into the kitchen with her... I often suggest it if I don't take it up to my room. Cheers, Howard

Hi Suzi Sorry this is probably too late, but how about Zaika just for drinks? True, the food experience has gone down hill but I've used this place a few times now as a meeting up place. Nice and quiet, plus you get to choose not only their cocktails but also any bottle on their wine list... Cheers, Howard

some further help, 12 FAQ about the michelin guide. http://www.michelin.com/corporate/front/te...odePage=PAG_17# ← Makes interesting reading. I discovered last night that to be included in the Relais et Chateaux guide actually costs an establishment a substantial sum. Le Gavroche was paying IRO £25,000 a few years ago for their Relais Gourmand. Whether this seems right or not I don't know. But I must say I've never been let down (whether it is a restaurant or hotel) from all the 30+ establishments I've tried from the guide. The same could not be said for Michelin awarded locations. Cheers, Howard

I agree. In my experience, London is a different market to New York. For example, I was in New York last month for a friend on mine's fourtieth. There, I sampled Daniel (a Relais Gourmand), Soho House and Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles. I wouldn't say I was particularly blown over by any of them although they are generally well received by the locals. Food definitely seemed much better value - although that was probably more to do with the exchange rate. Strangely the expected high level of service I normally anticipate for the US was rare. Perhaps this is just a New York thing. But there was something else missing that I just haven't been able to put my finger on. Perhaps it was the whole way the personal service thing works here in the UK just wasn't happening in New York. Perhaps it was the food: I always felt that no-one dared to do anything a little bit risque - for example, sweetbreads and pan fried foie gras were nowhere to be seen. Although the steak tartare at Les Halles was yummy - when the waiter felt he needed to say "You know that it is served raw, sir", I think that said it all. I'm not necessarily suggesting that my limited comparison between New York and London showed New York to be worse, just different, and something for me to get used to. Cheers, Howard

Here's my last six week's or so: 1. Aubergine 2. Hole in the Wall, Chiswick 3. Aubergine 4. Hole in the Wall, Chiswick 5. Ubon, Canary Wharf 6. Babylon Roof Gardens 7. Hole in the Wall, Chiswick 8. Racine 9. Aubergine 10. Hole in the Wall, Chiswick 11. Le Gavroche 12. Aubergine 13. Hole in the Wall, Chiswick 14. Racine 15. Aubergine 16. Swag and Tails, Knightsbridge 17. The Devonshire, Chiswick Babylon Roof Gardens was the most disappointing. OK, but reminded me of going to somewhere like Conran's Bluebird. A benefit is that you get to hit the dance floor afterwards if you're into that sort of thing. Ubon's good every once in a while, I always go for the surprise menu if the other diners are up for it. Racine generally very good, their grouse was massive this year. The GF who usually likes it had an awful shrimp starter there last time - tiny shrimps and someone in the kitchen dumped a ton of salt on it. Hole in the Wall still my favourite gastropub. Wine selection a little limited. Food is always well prepared and tasty. Swag and Tails a bit more upmarket, has exceptional pan fried foie gras for a gastropub although it's a small portion. Wine good value. The Devonshire has a very good wine list for a gastropub. Aubergine, well, you all know what I think of Aubergine. Le Gavroche - can't get enough of it. Actually, in between 2 & 3 I was in Cape Town, and between 10 & 11 New York where I fitted in a dozen or so different places, but this is a UK forum ;-) Cheers, Howard

Finally I found an opportune moment to speak to Thierry Tomasin of Aubergine last night. Reading between the lines it appears that there was a disagreement between two directors of A-Z leaving one of them holding the bag - and a loan that they didn't repay. Thus the receivers came in. Thierry and chef Billy Drabble were looking at buying Aubergine on its own as an MBO. However I believe that the receivers, favouring a combined sale, are now considering an offer from property developer John De Stephano, chairman of London and Henley Properties Limited, who is looking at purchasing all seven outlets. They are now in a due diligence period of crossing the t's and dotting the i's prior to signing. Thierry tells me the prospective buyer is a lover of food and wine. Oh, and if you think Aubegine's expensive may I suggest lunch there? Thirty quid including half a bottle of wine. Behave! For a blow out starter, I must recommend the quail, sweetbread and pan-fried foie gras 'salad'. How they can call it a salad is beyond me - it's 90% meat. Yum. Cheers, Howard