John Talbott

Excellent, this narrows the search and eliminates the 16th, 17th, 15th, 8th and probably the 14th and makes the 19th, 20th 12th and 13th highly unlikely. Sherlock Holmes fans - to the chase!

See with each suggestion, you recall one more small detail. So, how far on the twisty street was it and what sort of places were around it; shops, other restos, residences, etc? We'll get there about the time you find your guidebook.Twisty street is a great clue, I agree with Ptit as always, Grégoire-de-Tours is as straight as a ruler. Where were you staying? How far on the Metro was it?

As of today the message in the menu box says it's reopening June 1.

There's a book called (in French) something like "one plate, one restaurant" but of course I lent it and what I have is Rubin's 2000 English go at it subtitled "what you want to eat, where, dish by dish," in which he lists under Fries: A la biche au Bois Le Bistrot du Louvre Au Cochon d'Or Chez Geoges La Girondine Le Petit Gavroche Le Petit Yvan Ring a bell?

Great question. I've only been watching these results for a few years, but I can never recall 4 of the top 5 from any area, far less the 18th.Our French-French friends in the food biz would know if people are self-nominated, nominated by locals (in which case the "sqeaky wheel" may etc) or if there's some systematic way of scanning the boulangerie horizon. Maybe this was just the 18th's turn. And I selfishly say - about time.

Good point Clotilde, the Cantine de Quentin could also qualify as But when Conde Nast ranks a place ahead of say Rech, which was on both Rubin's and my list, I begin to suspect it's not the food (which of course is the mission of our (eGullet) society), we're talking about, but the buzz, the atmosphere, the fad factor. Could you explain: ThanksJohn

Wow, I'm dying of envy and it's another 4 hours til lunch. Oakglen and backward: Isn't that great though. I still recall my first steak/frites and sliced tomato and petitpois and haricots verts and Vache qui rit as well as my numbered duck at the Tour d'Argent. And I too am sure some of the former were not as great as their nostaligic memories are.I still draw a blank on where. What year was it? Maybe can see from the guidebooks what were the best steak/frites places that year.

You're the third person who's mentioned that place, a definate try next competition, although I think Phyllis has already tried it. You are spot on the #1 in the competition; were you on the jury,? but unfortunately as we said upthread Clearly you have to return to the 18th and show us how to eat and buy bread.

It would be helpful to me (and I suspect others) if you could give some geographical/landmark references, for instance, where did you go afterwards, what metro stop? as well as any other memories - think it's still open because it was founded a million years ago, famous for some other dish, was next to another place you recall, etc?I love questions like this, but so far no IBM punch card has fallen into view.

(1) I assume you know being Tour fans that around the Etoile it will be crazy since that's where the Tour swings around and (2) I assume that you've checked out our compendium on Sunday openings. That said, a kid-friendly place open Sundays (that I think has a kids menu too) within walking range is the Brasserie Lorraine, 2, place des Ternes, 8th, 01.56.21.22.00.

Well, you're right, there's a difference. The title is New Restaurants and the text says here are the freshly hatched ones; not hot ones, but Rech, l'Arome + Urbane are listed as Chicos which I assume comes close to hot if you assume to be in style is to be hot, but if you define hot as popular rather than "in" [vogue], I guess there are several degrees of separation. Are we into pilpul here?

I drifted by Spring today on the excuse of giving Daniel a hard copy of the Conde Nast Traveler article and found that he has a sous-chef helping at lunch and since he serves at 1 PM, this is when I'll go next time. He looks great though - as well he should after all these reviews - although he complained he's spending too much time on "insignificant" (my word) films/videos, but even if it's for Disney's "Ratatouille" and M6, it's flattering to be a star so soon after opening.

Yes Phyllis has several times and will reply I'm sure.I'm one of the nay-sayers at lunch but then I'm basically a grouch.

I finally found a refrence to it in the Oct 9, 2006 Digest

Phyllis/Felice suggested that posting this might generate more discussion than if it's lost in giant maw of the Digest. In the May issue of the Conde Nast Traveler the author(s) list the following as the "hot list" of Tables in Paris: La Cantine de Quentin Le Chateaubriand Les Ombres Les Petits Freres Spring. Meanwhile, Emmanuel Rubin et al in Figaroscope's top five for 2007 so far are: Spring Rech l'Arome Urbane Breizh Cafe. As for me, my 2007 choices would be: Spring Les Fines Gueules Les Fables de la Fontaine Versance Rech. And you?

I'm not sure whether you're asking whom should one trust when some folks love a place and others have stopped going or are you asking if you have a vote in this? You'll have to decide whom to listen to; but you certainly have a voice and a vote. And, I know residents here who rarely eat out and then at the same place(s) they went as students vs energetic American visitors who eat 14 quality meals in a week; who's more qualified?

Act II: Tonight, ironically the same night as the Presidential Debate took place (if you want our opinion we think M. Sarkozy was strong on money, security and employment and Mme Royal on schooling, the 35 hours for people in dead-end jobs, and grand visions) but we were alone, unjoined by experts from the NYTimes + other media. So on our second taste test of the baguettes in the top five we tried two and we split right down the middle: Mme Flick liked #3 from the Coquelicot des Abbesses, Thierry Racoillet and Sylvie Fourmont, 24, rue des Abesses, 75018 Paris for its dense center and M. Talbott prefered that from Alexandre Planchais, 40, rue Lepic, 75018 Paris (a block away) for its crispy crust. Join us next month for the test between #2 and 5. John and Phyllis

Wonderful! Therese, largely present in the Southeastern and Food Traditions & Culture Fora, and I lunched today at the Fables de la Fontaine, about which I'll report more later, where M. Constant warmly greeted us and over the door to the kitchen had this painted: "Etre Constant [JAT capitalized] un jour, c'est etre constant toujours." Trans by me = To be consistant today is to be consistant forever; Alt trans [taking the pun into consideration] = To be me (Christian Constant) today, is to be with me/us for all time."

I wouldn't worry too much about Atelier, once you get past the door and don't have more than 2 persons, (in which case comfortable conversation is impossible at the bar), you'll do fine. I guess if I had to add something at this level and the weather is good I'd also do Grande Cascade in the Bois. And Le Meurice is very nice and was recently re-endorsed by vmilor. I would avoid Helene Darroze and am always enthusiastic about non-starred Ze + Spring.

I assume you compressed Le Comptoir du Relais with Carrefour de l'Odeon and refer to Yves Camdeborde's newest venture. It will be controversal but I agree with you that I stopped going after I oversold lunch there and the couple I took, who'd been to Regalade a dozen times, hated the charcuterie/etc. approach. On the other hand, I had a nice dinner with Phyllis/Felice there before the disastrous lunch.

No question. But to be able to both eat well and shop at Marie-Anne Cantin, Androuet, Millet, Poujauran, Bacchus, Chaudun, etc., was/is a treat.

Let me return to this by retorting (is that a word?, or a neologism..., whatever) - within sight of the TE one has the Constant Empire, Bon Accueil + Les Anges and not too far away 144 Petrossian. Pas mal. (Not to mention the Ducasse/Sodexho take-over of the Altitude 95 + Jules Verne.)

This was prompted by the response made in/on (hum, my English is a bit rusty) the thread on the Clos des Gourmets So, why does one:(1) start off loving a place, then (2) go several (up to a dozen) times, then (3) sour on it? Is it one event, a series of “insults” and/or as Pierre45 and Paga keep reminding us – there’s too much goodness out there to fool around with a blemish/bad meal/problem. I’ll start off the process with: The old and I fear new Thierry Burlot's bumping the prices, unavailability of reasonably-priced wine, etc. The old Jumeaux's same old carte every time Bistro Cote Mer's departure of Mme Rostang The old Cottage Marcadet's chef's inability to pour wine Chez Catherine Oh boy, moved up big-time, as did Eric Frechon Petit Marguery, hummm, stagnant Wepler, Marty, + Bofinger been there, done it,.…. l’Huitrier hummm, just as good on my street and I haven't sliced my hand yet. Plunge in folks!

You know, Clotilde, that might start off a great thread. But then, everytime I try to start one, it dies a fast death.Ah, but I have a thick skin. So watch for it.

The Week of April 23rd, 2007 Monday, the results of the UK Restaurant (in conjunction with Le Figaro) magazine’s Best 50 Restaurants 2007 were given and commented on in an article by Francois Simon. Of interest to our France Forum loyalists are the following: 3 – Pierre Gagnaire, France (Paris). 6 – Bras, France (Laguiole) 8 – Restaurant Le Louis XV, Monaco (Monte Carlo). 13 – L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (Paris), France. 20 – Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, France (Paris). 21 – L’Astrance, France (Paris). 23 – L’Ambroisie, France (Paris). 25 – La Maison Troisgros, France (Roanne). 29 – Le Cinq, France (Paris) 43 – L’Arpège, France (Paris). 48 – Taillevent, France (Paris). 49 – Bocuse, France (Collonges-Au-Mont-d’Or). 50 – Les Ambassadeurs, France (Paris). Also of interest is his criticism that Yves Camdebord’s Le Comptoir du Relais is not on the list. Alexandra Michot in a nearby article says that soon they will list the “top 10” for each country too. Of interest to the above, Nicholas Lander in the weekend FT wrote an article in which the magazine’s Joe Warwick is quoted as saying “he would like to see a greater French presence at the awards and the lunch“. Monday, Julia Sammet in Le Fooding wrote up Lauracée in Marseille. Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave three/five blocks to Chez Rene, coordinates, etc, given before, and essentially says the resto still serves the same well-cooked Lyonnais cuisine (sausage, veal kidneys, Royan raviolis) that deserves a revisit; meanwhile his colleague Philippe Toinard also gave 3/5 blocks to the place {I reviewed recently} Le Bistrot de l’Alycastre, coordinates also given before, serving good product, such as a nice looking cote de boeuf, gambas and wild salmon, “smoothly” made. Tuesday in Nouvel’Obs there’s an interview with Pierre Gagnaire by Jean-Marcel Bouguereau, calling him the best and stating that he thinks Asia (esp Japan) has more and more influence on French cuisine. Tuesday, as well, Radio France talked of a new book that features 44 young chefs Alain Ducasse has promoted called "Fous de food: Portraits de la génération FoodFrance", Laurent Seminel - éditions Menufretin - 208 pages - 48 euros. Tuesday, Figaro put up an article by Lucile Escourrou about a book on cooking for large crowds at your own place called “Un jour, une fête” by Alexandra de Comarmond with beautiful photos (she says) by Jérôme Galland, Minerva), 191 pages, 26 €. Then on Friday in the Figaro, appeared an article by Sandie Meusnier on the new cakes of summer by Dalloyau. Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded two hearts to two restos: the Pourcel’s new off-shoot Sens, Hotel Evergreen, 8, place George Pompidou in Levellois-Perret, 01.46.39.00.72, open everyday, running one 60-80 € for artichokes prepared three ways, half-cooked tuna, veal and banana nems with litchi ice cream as well as l’Escargot, 18, rue Charles Lorilleux in Puteaux, 01.47.75.03.66, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, where for 35 € (menus 22 and 29 €) one has parsleyed ham, loin of lamb and pain perdu; one heart went to three places: Au Sud de Nulle Part, 16, blvd St Germain in the 5th, 01.43.54.59.10, closed Sundays and Monday noon, running one 40-50 € for “saturated” gazpacho,”insipid” barbue and “simple” cod, the bio Italianate Crudus, 21, rue St Roch in the 1st, and the Italian-Asian place Souma in the 2nd. Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week rated all the new restaurants that have opened recently in several categories, each is the number over 10, eg 7/10: Chic 7 Rech 6.5 Rich 6 Le Soleil Bistrot 8 Spring 7 l’Arome + Urbane 6.5 Cheri bibi + l’Office 6 Bistrot des Faubourgs + Les Fines Gueules 5.5 Chez Rene + Soubise 4 Bistrot du Marcande And also M comme Martine + Coup de Feu Cosmo 6.5 Chez You + Cristina’s tapas… 6 Pavillion Puebla + l’Oriental 5.5 Serafina 4 Tse Yang And also Arbre de Sel, Baan Kanya + Petit Thai Bobo-Trendy 6.5 Saut du Loup 6 Bonpoint 5.5 l’Eclaireur + First 4 Paris Bodega 3 Grandes Marches 2.5 Love Fast fast 7 Breizh Café 6 Boulangerie Fauchon + l’Atelier du VIIIe 5.5 Café Lumiere Francois Simon, in his Haché menu went to Urbane, coordinates given already, where he sort of liked the bread and artichokes, but not the lamb and thought the dessert was a “truc.” His bill was 117 € and he says about going - “whatever”. Richard Hesse in this week’s Paris Update went to another established place Stephane Martin in the 15th where despite over-cooked fish, the rest he described as divine and lush. This weekend Figaro Madame had an article by Lucile Escourrou on cooking “a la vapeur” that mentioned two restaurants, sort of, more like “semi fast food” – A Toutes Vapeurs, 7 rue de l’Isly in the 8th, 01 44 90 95 75, serving vegetable, fish and meat platters for 6-12 € and Vapeur Gourmande, 49 rue Balard in the 15th, 01 45 57 71 90, serving everything from starters to dessert, including Charolais beef, a la vapeur for 16-24 €. In addition, she mentions two books on the subject : Petits plats vapeur, collective authors, éditions Marabout, 2,90 € and Cuisine à la vapeur, Isabel Brancq, éditions Hachette Pratique, 9,90 €. Friday, in Les Echos, Jean Louis Galesne reviewed four places in the Ardeche La Table du Terroir, Le Hameau Gourmand + Domaine de Rilhac in Sagnes et Goudoulet, Saint-Martial and Saint-Agrève respectively and the shop Confitures de Nicole in Sainte-Eulalie. Friday, as well, Radio France announced the publication of a new book entitled Gontran fait son pain, Hachette Pratique – 160 pages – 18 € with 80 recipes with which one can make bread by hand or machine. Saturday/Sunday, BP published an article by Margaret Kemp on the Grand Vefour and one by John Talbott on Wine snobbery. Sunday, the JDD featured chef Gerard Vie (Trois Marches in Versailles’s choices for places in Paris for under 35 €: Le Maxan + Le Chansonnier {which appears in none of my guidebooks but is at} 14, rue Eugene Varlin in the 10th, 01.42.09.40.58 and has lunch formula for 9.80 (daily special) and 11.30 (2 dishes), menus at lunch and dinner for 24 (2 dishes) and a la carte for about 31 € for 3 dishes. In addition, Astrid T’Serclaes reviewed Urbane, coordinates given before. The Spring FRANCE magazine introduces several books: Markets of Paris by Dixon & Ruthanne Long, Little Bookworm, $16.95, Great Eats Paris by Sandra Gustafson, Chronicle Books, $15.95, Eric Kaiser’s Sweet and Savory Tarts, Flammarion, $34.95 & Bocuse in Your Kitchen, Random House, $29.95; an article on lentils by Susan Herrmann Loomis that mentions Violin d’Ingres, Restaurant 21 + Andre Barcet in St Etienne; and an article by Alexandre Lobrano on “Where the chefs eat” including Dominique Bouchet – Aida, Jacques Melac, Yannick Alleno – Café Constant, Le Comptoir du Relais + Auguste, Alain Ducasse – Chateaubriand, l’Ami Jean + Gaya and Eric Frechon – Violin d’Ingres + Pierre Gagnaire. March’s Bon Appetit has an article by Dorie Greenspan on places you should keep secret – Aoki, Da Rosa, Michel Chaudun, Caves Auge, Le Restaurant a l’Hotel, Le Bar au Murano Urban Resort, Le Baratin, Mathis Bar, Le Verre Vole + Bistrot Paul Bert. May’s Gourmet had recipes for bouillabaisse and rouille from l’Epuisette in Marseille, which Alexander Lobrano says is the best…… He also gives three places in the Auvergne for aligot – Chez Germaine, Le Buron du Bes + Michel Bras and a recipe. May’s Conde Nast Traveler lists 95 “hot tables” that includes Paris restos - La Cantine de Quentin, Le Chateaubriand, Les Ombres, Les Petits Freres + Spring, l’Atelier de Jean Luc Rabanel in Arles and the Restaurant at the Benkira in St Tropez. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.