John Talbott

Pti, I'm butting into this private coversation to say that while I have not eaten in Saulieu since the '75-'85 height, I rather admired his translation/transition into the Tante's in Paris.

"Bonne continuation" is a good example of "furniture manners", something you say just for the sake of saying something. When one is not close to a person and cannot say "bon voyage", "good luck", "have a great time" or "kiss the kids for me", one sometimes says "bonne continuation", just some sound really, which has the merit (?) of not meaning anything. It has — as you have noticed — been industrialized in recent years, particularly in restaurants. In any case, restaurant or daily life, it always sounds a bit vulgar from being so stiff, awkward and commercial. It makes me cringe every time. I'll take "bon appétit" any time. Only once, though, I admired the creativity of waiters in a Brest fish restaurant, all dressed in black-and-blue striped t-shirts, who said "bonne traversée" after picking up the menus. ← Pti, how about "That was?" or "Were you pleased by that?" Do you think/feel he/she/they really want an answer other than "Super" "Delicious" "Great." I've found (Ok, speaking like a Spanish cow) when I say something like "Banal" it's like speaking to my now-gone-elsewhere dog, with a big smile on my face while saying "Bad dog." Actually, I rather like "bonne continuation."

Dining Etiquette & Customs: Dress, Tipping, Gifts, Bathroom using, Presents, etc. This is one of a series of compendia that seeks to provide information available in prior topics on the eGullet France Forum. Please feel free to add links to additional threads or posts or to add suggestions. Bathroom going Bon Appetit saying Cultural differences Dress General Dining Etiquettte Gifts for hostess Ice in liquids Pouring wine for women Tipping

Oh wow Pti, you're right, I'd forgotten Christian wasn't always there. Now to find the file in which the memory resides, ahhhhh.

It's a bit late, but my schedule is really off today; however, tonight at 23h10 France 3 is broadcasting a special on eating with politicians such as Roselyne Bachelot and Figaro's preview quotes several celebrities about the importance of food; the multilingual Nelson Monfort "I hate chocolate cake and Buches de Noel" as well as Stephane Bern (in character) glowing about his lunch with Grace Kelly. Report: I doubt that the program will be accessable on the France 3 site, which is probably to the good since it was not terribly interesting. Some points made/observed were that: 1. Édouard Balladur eats chicken with his fingers. 2. Alain Juppe has one hellovalotta wine glasses in front of him when eating. 3. Politicians soak up the sauce with their bread despite the info from my friend the Cultural attache in the French Foreign Service. 4. Ortalans still exist and are eaten. 5. Roselyne Bachelot thinks tete de veau (which they showed being made with M. Chirac observing) is a veritable nightmare. 6. Jacques Chirac did indeed say "Eat apples." 7. Politicians really eat and drink extremely well. 8. Politicians get to eat in really neat places (eg the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles). 9. Politicians get to eat with interesting people (eg the young Frank Sinatra + Diana). Edited by John Talbott Sept 30 to add report.

I want to thank everyone. I went to BHV and for 5.70 E got a sachet of cleaner. I ran it through the long cycle and there was no gnashing/groaning at all. Then to make sure I ran it with white vinegar in the rinse cycle - some gnashing/groaning. Finally I ran my regular load of dishes post-couscous and there was no powder left on glasses and no gnashing/groaning. Thanks.

I was writing about something different, a definite level of cooking which, I think, no longer exists: high-quality popular cooking. It was Peyrot's background (his father's auberge kitchen in the Ardèche) and I was raised on it too, so when the chef and I had conversations about that style of cooking, we perfectly knew what we were talking about. The relative overall poorness of contemporary "modest" food (compared to the relative overall excellence that prevailed, say, until the 80s) and fussiness of "elegant" food are deceptive. They easily make one overlook, or just hide the fact, that there is a missing link, a torn page in the history book, that questions the value of that duality. The duality is a reality now, but it is a very recent trend. ← Got you now.Memory does play tricks on one, and I'm not sure this subject doesn't deserve a separate topic, where perhaps we should discuss the absence of "contemporary 'modest' food" but although I was a very callow youth when I first came to France in '53 it seemed to me the old adage about "you can't have a bad meal in France" was pretty true; I had steak/frites, "trash" fish, green salads with simple vinaigarette, sliced tomatoes (Bocuse's probably apocryphal comment rang true to me) where students like me ate, everything was inexpensive and good. But in 1991, when I was stuck near the Rue de Buci for a month with less than an hour for lunch everyday, except for Gaya(in its original location)'s wonderful bar/tapas food, the inexpensive places students ate at were pretty awful. As I say, memory plays tricks and probably I'm romanticising the 50's, but..... Pti, can't we find that missing page?

No, the actual dishes, with their perfect and rare balance in the execution, etc., were absolutely something that could have been found in a good auberge back in the 1950s or 60s, just as I wrote. I do not believe in the existence of any gap between that exceptional cuisine, which I call "popular gastronomy" (now disappeared), and what you call "grand restaurant". This is a modern, artificial characterization and segmentation of cooking that I do not agree with. ← I'm not sure who I'm agreeing or diagreeing with here but let me take an auberge I'm especially fond of as an example. In another thread I wrote: Bonamy does both traditional, simple stuff for firsts and desserts and more daring plates for mains. It's a bit like readability and scientific; the two aren't necessarily mutually exclusive.But maybe I'm missing the point.

My cohost and I ate lunch there with the 37 E menu and it was about the best meal I've had in ......, eh, since I was there last time. The 37 E menu had more than enough choices. Aside from my usual reasons for doing my big meal at lunch not dinner is that at least at the Magnolias, one can walk "home" in daylight.As for the rumored move, it is still in the works apparently.

OK, on popular demand, the Pere Bise story, yet again.This takes place in 1984-5 as well, when the dollar was King, we (as always) had no reservations but 10 guide and food books and pre-internet, lots of advice from friends. We arrived in Annecy and Talloires about 3 PM and though we were warned NOT to go to Pere Bise because Pere was in decline, we had to see that lovely lawn that runs down from the hotel to the Lac (famously featured in Claire's Knee). Well, one thing led to another, Colette said, "why don't we stay here," I replied, "it's much too expensive and besides M. Bise is in decline," sez she "do we spend it or the kids?," Me: "I don't speak French and we don't have a reservation;" she: "come on John, this is lovely, I want to stay here." I creep in, tugging my forelock, timidly ask Madame if they have a room, they do, but it's an old servant's room at the top of the detached building and it's hot (no A/C in those days). We look at it, it's divine. We (straight off the airplane and M. Giradet's lunch, wine and a petit armagnac) take a nap, waking to the sound of a woman with a period costume, in a rowboat singing "Sur les toits de Paris", rowed by a another woman, while a guy played a guitar. Oh we were in heaven. Of course we planned to eat elsewhere, in Annecy or with M. Veyrat or even at the Hotel de l'Abbaye where Baby Doc Duvalier was hiding from extradition - anywhere but there, but we didn't want to move. So, sheepishly I approached Madame again: Could we eat there? Of course, we always reserve tables for our guests. The meal was memorable, a late summer night, a sunset over the lake and mountains and then the question I had not anticipated: would Monsieur like some cheese? We had already emptied a half bottle of white with our entrees and a full bottle of red with our mains (those were the days eh?) and I said I would love some but needed a glass of wine. Desole, Monsieur, we only have wine by the bottle. So I ordered the cheese and miraculously a 1/2 full bottle of very, I mean very, good red appeared. I stammered, "mais...." The waitress poured it and looking behind her said "M. Bise wanted you to have this." And there, ten feet away, finishing his dinner, old, shrunken, but with twinkling eyes and a grin of extreme pleasure on his face, sat, for me Pere Bise, extending his hand in offering up his fabulous wine. Well, of course we stayed for breakfast and lunch as well. They don't make 'em like that anymore and the staff cannot carry out the master's wishes like that much more either. Here's to you Pere Bise!

Abra, I seem to recall someone asking and answering the same thing last year. Have you tried to search for wine and price in the titles?

My experiences are a bit different. I'd read about him and after landing in Geneva immediately drove there for lunch. We had a 2-week trip to Annecy (whoops, I forgot to list Pere Bise but that's another story) and then Vienna and back thru Geneva (1985, the French franc was 10-1). We were so blown away by our first meal, which we had reserved months in advance on the exact day, that we pleaded to come back in two weeks and wouldn't you know, John, the Anglo maitre d', put a table out towards the entrance (it had been fully booked), where my wife (1st, 2nd and only) and I went nuts and needed no food on the airplane at all. While I have eaten there and at his culinary children's places since, nothing matched those two meals that bookended our trip. And those were the days when the chef cooked, made pastry and cruised the house.

The Bricolo Cafe at BHV is no more. I dropped in for a cafe after buying some dishwasher cleaner and found it gone. Good news tho, the Cafe de la Ligne wedged between BHV, the parking and metro on the basement floor is now run by a most pleasant Asian couple and served an excellent cafe serre for 1 Euro.

Host's Note I've started a new topic over here on places long gone for the troisieme age bunch. I moved some of your posts that seemed relevant. This can now revert to l'Arpege.

For me: Girardet, referred to before, represented one of the cardinal points on my culinary compass by his absolutely impeccable choice of products, cooking and plating. Second is Michel Guerard at the Pot au Feu in Asnieres, for his solid, fabulous rich dishes, such as lievre a la royale, before he sought fewer calories in Eugenie les Bains. Next comes Bernard Loiseau at the Barrière de Clichy, in Clichy of all places, long before the Cote d’Or + Tantes. Now a surprise, because he’s cooking and living well but has gone over the hill or around the bend lately: Gilles Choukroun, who really did it at the Café des Delices. Also on the hit parade but who have moved on, out or backwards are Joel Robuchon while at Jamin, Roger Verge and Alain Ducasse (one was never sure who put what where) at the Moulin de Mougins near Cannes, Alain Senderens and Alain Passard at L'Archestrate before becoming l’Arpege, Michel Rostang’s invention of the Bistro’s d’a Cote, Gilles Epie at Miravile and Eric Frechon on the rue du General Brunet in the 19th which changed its name three times by my count, before moving to le Bristol and the charming Billaud couple at La Grande Rue, (he’s landed well apparently at the Sofitel San Francisco Bay). Edited to fix missing words.

While several topics start out, "we (or friends,) are first time visitors, where do we eat?," there's not been a topic culling our collective advice. So here goes with my list not of my new favorites, or all-time favorites, but where I'd send first timers. (Eagle eyes will note that one of my current faves, Spring, is missing, both because it's booked far in advance and because it didn't fit into any easy category - it's sui generis.) One classic brasserie Bofinger One classic bistrot l’Ami Jean One bustling fun place Astier One neo-bistrot Cerisaie One gastro-bistrot Le Repaire de Cartouche One good fish place Fables de la Fontaine One meat place Severo + Bis de Severo One oyster place L’Ecallier du Bistrot One post-modern one Ze Kitchen Galerie One one-star experience Les Magnolias in Le Perreux-sur-Marne

I cannot answer the last question, haven't been in years.As for current vs old; I was suggesting we test our memories for memorable "old" meals in "old" places. Maybe that idea doesn't resonate with anyone but some of my ancient memories of places long gone (for example, Barriere de Clichy + Giradet are as strong today as then.

Indeed, it was top. We should do a historical topic; for me, I'd relive Giradet, Lameloise, Bocuse, Barriere de Clichy + Jamin, Loiseau, Pere Bise, Boyer pre-Crayeres and even {gasp} in the very early days l'Ami Louis. Would I be age-ist or get no responses if I insisted that the only posters be born before WWII?I mean, if Frederic Gersal can do a c10 min spot on Telematin qd, why not us? Send me a PM if interested. Otherwise we'll let the idea die.

Well, I drifted by after lunch at l'Ami Jean about which I'll have much to say later, and the place was full and when I looked in the window I was astounded by a raised table facing the street seating about 8 persons that had more glassware on it than most restaurants carry altogether. I entered and asked to see the carte (menu); there is none, one orders the 50, 100 or 1000 Euro meal and with the wine(s) come "surprise dishes." It opens tomorrow to the public, today was a Press preview (having just eaten I only half-heartedly suggested they should have invited me). But they were most pleasant and we exchanged cards. On verra. ← John is this the old Chamarré location? ← Yes, and where they went was not especially beloved by my companion et moi.

Well, I drifted by after lunch at l'Ami Jean about which I'll have much to say later, and the place was full and when I looked in the window I was astounded by a raised table facing the street seating about 8 persons that had more glassware on it than most restaurants carry altogether. I entered and asked to see the carte (menu); there is none, one orders the 50, 100 or 1000 Euro meal and with the wine(s) come "surprise dishes." It opens tomorrow to the public, today was a Press preview (having just eaten I only half-heartedly suggested they should have invited me). But they were most pleasant and we exchanged cards. On verra.

Wouldn't have remembered without pulling up my review but it's exactly 16 You should know tho, that it's changed hands and I haven't been but reports are good, for example, Feb 19th What about the basement of Les Papilles?, that's about the right size.

Arguably the most splendiforous cheese display(s) in Paris is, or at least was, at Montparnasse 25 where the cheese man had his hands full wheeling in, out and around the trolleys piled high with soft cheeses, firm cheeses and Mountain cheeses. They were most assuredly constantly being cut into. While offputting to some, he not only suggested a balence of various types (if asked of course) but also was very specific on their order of march.

Radio France du Gout News: Anne-Sophie Pic was named chef of the year by the vote of 8,000 chefs conducted by the magazine Le Chef, thereby joining Thierry Marx (2006), Olivier Roellinger (2005), Michel Trama (2004), Alain Ducasse (2000) and Joël Robuchon (1986), and Nicolas Mouton of the Chateau d'Ermenonville in Ermenonville was named most promising chef of the year.

There are three places to look: 1. The private room/groups compendium 2. Places for groups of 12 3. Places for groups of 16 where I’ll tuck this. Edited to add the word groups.

The Week of September 17th, 2007 Monday in Le Fooding Alexandre Cammas wrote about Le Look, 17 rue Martel in the 10th, 01.42.46.12.88, opened by one artist-designer-creator Ludivine Billaud, serving hot dogs, salads and sandwiches, croissants, lasagna and other pasta. Monday/Tuesday, A Nous Paris had an article on Gilles Choukroun, his history and his expanding empire. Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update loved Garance, 96 quai de Jemappes in the 10th, 01 42 02 87 95, closed Mondays, costing about 35 € a la carte where despite the loud music he had great daurade tartare with beetroot shoots, marinated salmon with fresh herbs and Thai lime zest and a crunchy guacamole; previously he’d had calf’s liver and suggests they do fish better than meat (including steak tartare and rib steak). Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope entitled the “What’s New” section “C’est Nouveay” {I guess because rugbyman Sella gets a supportive cheer} and devoted the headline, photo and long blurb to Sydr, 6 rue Tilsett in the 8th, 01.45.72.41.32, but gave it a busted heart (as did Pti here); the other broken heart was La Ferme Saint-Simon, 6, rue de Saint-Simon in the 7th, 01.45.48.35.74, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday, {which grade does not comport with mine.} The good news, however, were three two-hearters: Le Carée des Vosges, 15, rue Saint Gilles in the 3rd, 01.42.71.22.21, closed Sundays and Mondays, with menus at 21 and 27, a la carte 40-50 € with a langoustine bisque, fricassee of chicken and daurade piperade; Victor, 101 bis, rue Lauriston in the 16th, 01.47.27.55.07, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with a luncheon formula for 21 and 40 €a la carte for smoked herring, lamb en croute of herbs, chicken breast and Hevin pastries; and Clarisse, 29, rue Surcouf in the 7th, 01.45.50.11.10, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with lunch menus at 31 and 38, 54 at night, and a la carte 50 € for sardine filets, rabbit with foie gras and roast figs. Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about Japanese bento boxes gotten at: Restaurants Kaiseki + Bizan Take-out shops Premiere Etoile, Lenotre, Fauchon, Be + Raynier Marchetti. And Francois Simon in his “Hache Menu” reviewed Usagi, 58, rue de Saintonge in the 3rd, 01.48.87.28.85, saying that while Japanese bentos are not as popular in Paris as Italian pizza, North African couscous or American hamburgers, if you are in the area you could go painlessly for the bento, stuffed cabbage and desserts for 67 €. Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about the movie Ratatouille and its Bristol-like décor and echoes of Bocuse’s love life, Loiseau’s death and Escoffier’s first name, saying only Antoine Ego, the critic, is generic. Friday, Jean-Louis Galesne in Les Echos reviewed these restaurants in Lyon: Daniel et Denise, Maison Merle, Koodeta, l’Orson quit Boit, Magali & Martin, Cuisine & Dependances Acte II + Les Oliviers. and two bars: Le Bar du Passage + Le Comptoir de la Bourse. In the same edition, Jean-Claude Hazera discusses the cheese that Parisians devour and where to get and see it being made: Brie, the King of Cheese and cheese of Kings, from Meaux, Melun, Coulommiers, Montereau and Nangis can best be appreciated at the Société Fromagère de la Brie in St-Simon as well as La Fontaine Sainte-Colombe in Vieux-Maisons and La Fromagerie Ganot in Jouarre; in Paris from Cantal. He also writes of the raw milk/AOC issue regarding the camembert from the coopérative d'Isigny-Sainte-Mère et Lactalis. Saturday, Francois Simon in Figaro wrote about eating in Alsace/etc.: Chambard + Flammes and Co in Kaysersberg, la Table du Gourmet in Riquewihr and La Nouvelle Auberge in Wihr-au-Val. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.