John Talbott

5.00 A real product-driven, friendly, English-speaking, local haven Le Café qui Parle, 24, rue Caulaincourt in the 18th, 01.46.06.06.88, closed Wednesdays, lunch formula = 12,50 €, menu 17, a la carte 25-30, a no limit on the food Sunday brunch for 15 €, was taken over a year ago by a wonderful young couple (Catherine & Damien) who have known each other for 14 years (and have an adorable and very well-behaved 8-mo-old boy), worked separately in the US and France – Boulud, Georges V, Goumard + Flora Danica. It’s lucky to find a place in this veritable Bermuda triangle between Abbesses, the Place de Clichy and Toulouse-Lautrec’s house and it’s a real safe harbor; good, honest food, all locals, and quite interesting chow and wine plus. Three of us started with a great Corbieres and ended with a Cahors; between which we had a “crème brulé” of avocado and shrimp, a “velouté” of red beans, tomatoes and tiny squid and a ceviche of tuna (all of which were first class); then a barely cooked (as ordered) rack of lamb with a pile of incredibly excellent veggies and an entrecote with salad and potatoes. This inventive chef clearly knows his craft. No dessert but one coffee; thus 3 persons with four entrées, two mains, one coffee and no comps = 103 €, generously split by our guest from Londres. Should one go? If in Montmartre, by living or touring, about as good as you’ll find.

Update: Today/this week/month, these perks of employment (Cheque-Dejeuner, Cheque de Table, Cheque-Restaurant + Ticket-Restaurant) are 40 years old (bless President Georges Pompidou for the idea) and represent 567 million meals a year accepted in 160,000 restaurants (according to Metro.)

I knew you'd be going, old pal, so I had to beat you out.I hate sitting at counters, even at Les Cocottes or l'Atelier de JR. I guess the good thing is you can talk more to the pourers and they have this incredible array of open bottles there, but........ As for a la carte, I dunno, I guess since you're more of a wine guy than I, you could navigate the shoals and reefs better, but I was happy to throw myself on the mercy of the head guy. (By the way, for members who do not speak 7 tongues flawlessly, as does Pierre, the head guy offered to do the food in English or French; snob that I am, I chose French but I heard his English and it's fine). But read Colette's comments again, she was very blah about the experience. Have fun and please report back.

6.5 The name says it all; wine, wine, wine Il Vino, 13, bvd de la Tour Maubourg in the 7th, 01.44.11.72.00, closed weekends but open 7/7 starting next December, with three menus at 50 - 3 courses, 75 - 4 courses (down from 100 at its opening) and 1000 € - 5 courses and top-of-the-line wine, a la carte 40-70 €. Some may recall that I dropped by/in the day of its press opening and was staggered by the number of glasses per table and impressed by the prices, but awaited word from the big boys before proceeding. They accommodated me; Rubin with ¾, Berger with 4/5 so we went today (reservations are a necessity unless you prefer bar stools). The place is configured like when it was Chamarré except for a huge visible wine cellar. The menu consists of a list of wines on the left page and which course (entrée, main, cheese, dessert) they go with) and on the right are the three menus, the 1000 and 50 listing the wines poured that day (today’s were different from those listed two weeks ago). I chose the 75 menu for which they list no wines or dishes; simply asking you if there’s any food you don’t like – being unable to think of none, I replied, just hamburgers, which got a laugh and the point across, I think. The first wine (and they pour the wine before they deliver the food – their point comes across clearly – it’s the wine, stupid!) was a South African Constantini Uitsig Sauvignon Blanc, lovely with the warm escabeche of fresh sardines that was terrific. Then they poured a Penfield Connawara Shiraz that was the right gutsy accompaniment to the magret of duck with a peppery (peppercorns) wine sauce, celeriac puree and pear tarte. Then I went on to have a Chateau Chillon that at first I thought was so maderizy that it would be too much vin jaune, but again it suited the 3-year old Conté well. Finally they poured me a Cap Corse Muscat with an intricate chocolate cylinder filled with creamy goodness, surrounded by roasted banana slices and topped with a hot chocolate sauce. Problems: only one, they served my cheese and Colette's dessert at the same time and wanted to serve her coffee while I had dessert (which is not strange in the US but it was a first in France.) The bill, no bottled water, 2 menus (one 50, one 75) and 2 coffees = 135 €. Nothing comp’d (they recognized neither me nor a really famous food critic). Should one go? Sure, why not? Once. It is unique. Colette had the 50 menu and the following is her report: “1- A St Veran with spaghetti topped with fresh heirloom tomatoes - wine a bit “thin”, the pasta OK, but not what I expected at this snazzy new “in” restaurant. 2 – A Cotes de Rhone with lamb and vegetables – a rich, delicious stew (7 hr lamb with veggies added later), reminiscent of something Julia Child would have made for a Sunday lunch with friends and family. The wine did not seem “big” enough to go with the dish, I would have preferred the Shiraz. 3 – A Muscato d’Asti with a “crumble” of exotic fruits, mango and kiwi – the wine was lovely, but the dessert was “so what” – nothing particularly special. I thought the décor was handsome, including deep wine colored calla lilies in a tall glass vase that stood near our table. Initially there was a selection of the most intrusive music playing, but happily it was turned off as the restaurant filled. I have not put this restaurant on my “we must go back” list. The price/quality/inventiveness ratio was just not “there” for me.”

I've not heard of this trend, but if it's any consolation, I'm not one of those who's rushing back to eat there. Once (with the tricky little dishes) was enough for me. Onward!

Members might be interested in an article by NYT's wine critic Eric Asimov entitled "What's New in Beaujolais is not nouveau" saying that the producers are trying to make the wine to get taken and be consumed more seriously. And in today's IHT there is an AP note that there will be rosé versions issued when the wine debuts November 15th.

2008 French Food Guides Chapter 1 - Gault/Millau Set to be released Nov 1. Metro reported that it has named Jean-Luc Rabanel of l'Atelier de.... Chef of the Year and Web Radio du Gout said it has allowed only one chef/resto, Marc Veyrat to keep his 20/20 rating. Also Expatica announced that it named seven restaurants "icons of French cuisine" who were Alain Chapel at Mionnay, L'Auberge de l'Ill at Illhaeusern, Paul Bocuse at Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, and four Paris restaurants, La Tour d'Argent, Alain Senderens, Lasserre and Laurent.

Thursday, Alain Ducasse announced that the Relais & Chateaux’s 170 restaurants would offer a 28 Euro menu featuring traditional French food (“Puy green lentils to the Drome's truffles and apricots, Basque piperade or Breton crab") in March and April.

Sad; looks like not much has improved in the 2 1/2 years since it opened.

A sad commentary in the paper today: attendance was off by half on all the Salons last week d/t the strike.

I went by Patrick Goldenberg's, Ave Wagram in the 17th today; big sign, soon to be another Bar a Huitres. As I recall, I reported elsewhere that Jo Goldenberg's in the 4th was to be remade by the Costes.

I've hesitated to pipe up before now because my experience was several years ago and was recommended to me by a French colleague who thought the setting and food was nice: Le Donjon - les Remparts, no stars, forks, etc. But it was nice.

Wednesday-Thursday Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde wrote the first full article on game I’ve seen this fall that mentions the introduction of gibiers into the restaurants: Scots grouse in August, followed by wild birds and then hopping things, and finally hoofy animals. More in this week’s Digest about new preparations available at Jacques Cagna, Auguste, Jean-Marie Amat, Grande Cascade, Lasserre, Plaza Athénée, Citrus Etoile, La Marlotte + Les Glaneurs.

Upthread on the Rome pinned topic you'll find our experience Sunday night at The Osteria Il Bocconcino, via Ostilia, 23 in Rome, 77079175, closed Wednesdays, a Slow Food Guide aka Osterie d’Italia place, open on Sunday nights. BTW, that afternoon we went to Tivoli and ate surprisingly well at The Gallo d’Oro, via del Duomo, 53, 0774.335363, closed Tuesdays. I say "surprisingly well" because we literally stumbled on it, not havng done any research because our host was doing his sabbatical there and we assumed (falsely) he would know the best place in town.

Where, how was it, come on!

Host's Note I'm bumping this up simply to remind us that many of these pinned topics bear old dates but are periodically updated; for instance I just added our member Chocolate & Zucchini's Glossary of food terms for the first-time visitor to general information.

Ditto from the old world. Super choice.

Pierre, my friend, you really must learn to click on the link; it's Le Clocher Pereire, 42, bvd Pereire in the 17th, 01.44.40.04.15. And, I suspect, if you mention my name they'll look at you a bit strangely. But come with me and we'll at least have fun. Although, have you thought of going to Victor, 101 bis, rue Lauriston in the 16th, 01.47.27.55.07, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with a luncheon formula for 21 and 40 €a la carte for smoked herring, lamb en croute of herbs, chicken breast and Hevin pastries that I've been unable to get to yet.

Hugh, quite a coincidence. I was en route from the Cafe du Petit Palais, where I was sipping a cafe serre awaiting Colette's depart from the Courbet show to Ze where we showed M. Ledeuil the news that he was the #9 chef in France (one better than Pierre Gagnaire) in Liberation/oMnivore's ranking (but more on that in this week's Digest). In any case, my incident occurred at the SouthEast corner of the Pont Alexandre III and Cour La Reine. Sounds very near; they must be working those bridges. Food news: #9 is #1 in my book; the rouget and pasta with mushrooms and figs with sorbet were terrific, but the confit de canard: nickel.

Metro reported today that the Gault/Millau 2008 appearing November 1st, has named Jean-Luc Rabanel of l'Atelier de.... Chef of the Year. Plus Web Radio du Gout said the same G/M has allowed only one chef/resto, Marc Veyrat to keep his 20/20 rating. They also say that Alain Ducasse will be publishing his new book Le Grand Livre de Cuisine - Tour du Monde himself at the end of November, covering 500 recipes from his group in 1100 pages costing 215 €. Also, October 10th, Champérard 2008 appeared and promoted Gérald Passédat of Le Petit Nice to its highest grade.

We have topics on Advice for the first time visitor and where the first timer should eat but not one on street scams. The old ones include squirting those tiny packets of catsup or mustard on your clothes to divert you or yogurt on your shoes to make you look down or spraying your head with water to make you look up, ah ha, but a new one happened to us twice today separately in Paris. First, by a deserted bus stop on the Seine, a male scammer "found" a gold ring by my feet and offered it to me as good luck (presumably, to stay food-related, to put in my King's cake); then pleaded for recompense, and ended up furious that I hadn't fallen for the scam. (I saw him try to pull the same routine equally unsuccessfully on a French businessman 100 feet away 10 minutes later so it's not tourist-targeted). Two hours later, Colette had a female scammer repeat the scenario whilst strolling through the Tuileries with a friend. And you? Had any interesting food-related street scams attempted lately?

My usual practice is to post a bunch of reports on new restaurants en bloc once a month and only comment on places I return to on their topic threads. However, today’s place, Le Clocher Pereire has only been commented on here by myself, so I’ve started this. Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope September 5th piqued my interest and when I went September 28th, I was taken by it. So I enticed Colette into going today, it didn’t take much. The place was once again packed (they turned away at least six folk without reservations – so it’s hot); the food was very good and the service is commendable. Colette started with the cepes-two-ways that I had last time and found it every bit as delectable as I had; I had what was described as sliced St Jacques but was almost a thin paving stone of scallops on celery puree covered with a very light jelly – one of the best dishes I’ve ever had. Then she had deconstructed very Japanesy-designed dish of glazed scallops in the right column, a center strip of nuts and vinegary orange and a left column of dollops of polenta. Apart or together they were great. I had a poule faisan with a foie gras forcemeat with “forgotten” root vegetables – wonderful. She finished with the moelleux I had last time and I with a cold Armagnac soufflé that had an almost-mocha taste to it. The chef, Eric Jolibois, came over after we’d finished and he’s a terrific young (ex-Costes, Taillevent, Robuchon, Dutournier, depending on who you read) guy, who had seen my report in the France Forum a few weeks ago and was eager to talk, indeed, we went on for quite a while. Disclosure: as a result, he made sure that the wine and one Calva was on him. The cost: two 3-course 29 € menus and two 3 € coffees = 64 € (with the wine & digestif you could add 32 €, making it 96 € without any bottled water or aperos). Reserve, run and enjoy!

While I understand the rush you were in Abra, at the risk of repeating something Pti said on another topic a while back, there are options to the sandwiches in the stations; for example, when 12 of us, ages -.03-me, were catching a train from Montparnasse to Nantes with a tight timeframe, the guys went to Inno on the rue du Depart and we had a spread on the trip that was magnificent.

Well, one with interesting (snail) shells one does cook and serves with a peppery sauce is bigorneau which Mediterranee serves as an amuse-gueule. Photo here, in fact all the photos are kind of cool.

The Week of October 15th, 2007 Monday, Jean Boilot of Le Fooding wrote up the African/Senegalese resto Chez Blondin, 33 bd Arago in the 13th, 01 45 35 93 67, closed Sundays costing one about 30 €. Monday/Tuesday, A Nous Paris had two reviews: Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks to the well-received Afaria, coordinates given before, where he mentions the boudin with potatoes and sweetbreads with cepes; while Philippe Toinard gave 2/5 blocks to Les Diables au Thym, 35, rue Bergere in the 9th, 01.47.70.77.09, with a 28 € menu, serving such fare as an artichoke cake, sandre with green cabbage and over-salted cod. In the side-bar they announce that the Kusmi Tea house has opened a resto in its St Germain des Pres location. Wednesday, Nick Hammond in Paris Update reviewed the two-year-old Fontaine Fiacre, coordinates given before, which he liked as much as I did (wonder why I’ve never returned?) Wednesday, as well, Emmanuel Rubin, in Figaroscope awarded two hearts each to the Senegalese Chez Blondin, coordinates above and Alfred, 52, rue de Richelieu in the 1st, 01.42.97.54.40, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing about 50 €, for items such as a terrine de campagne, beef filet and chocolate mousse. One heart each went to three other places: the Japanese resto Usagi in the 3rd, Vintage, 46, rue d’Argout in the 2nd, 01.40.26.57.54, closed Sundays, about 30 a la carte but with two formulas at 14.5 and 18 € for squid salad, a remoulade of celery and crab and a veal chop with girolles, and the neo-baba-bobo-bio Supernature, 12, rue de Trevise in the 9th, 01.47.70.21.03, closed Saturday all day and Sunday at dinner (lunch is brunch), costing 25 a la carte with formulas at 12 and 15 €, for lasagna, risotto and a “veggie-burger.” And Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week was all about the new Italian restaurants: Trattorias Romantica Caffe Don Giovanni Impro’vista Vincent Cozzoli Gambino Restaurants Iannello Crudus Goldini’s Wine bars Nero Enoteca Vinoteca reviewed by Francois Simon in his ”Hache Menu” where he says one can eat better (especially for 176.50 € for two with only two glasses of 10 € wine) Bar a Mozzarella Roberta FNAC Montparnasse Not forgetting La Maison de Matteo, Le 7 Epicerie comptoir, Cantina Clandestina, La Salumeria, Bonpoint Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about courses all over France October 13-14 teaching about using spices. Saturday, Francois Simon in Le Figaro, published several pieces: (1) an article on the House of Krug, (2) two articles on books to buy, a nice “Croque Notes” about l’Agassin, 8, rue Malar in the 7th, 01.47.05.94.27 {whose menu looked rather pedestrian when I looked in en route to l’Ami Jean after reading Jean-Louis Galesne’s review of it in mid-April} but Simon has changed my mind calling the food generous, serious and impeccable and the chef, ex-Anacreon, good and despite a loud American table, he had a good meal. In the business section were two other food articles: one on the “trend” to use “professional” machines (beer taps, coffee makers and chilled wine racks) at home; the other on the plan to export the Atelier des chefs concept to Brussels, London and New York. Saturday/Sunday, in the FT Michael Steinberger wrote about Steven Kaplan of Cornell and Versailles becoming the world’s foremost historian of French bread. Sunday, in the JDD, Mathias Dandine of the one-star hotel Les Roches in Le Lavandou recommends the following under 35 € in Paris: Le Café Barge + Le Relais des Buttes. In its magazine femina Astrid T’Serclaes writes up: Le Grand Pan + Au Petit Thai. Sunday, Margaret Kemp has an article in Bonjour Paris about caviar at Petrossian and other events of the week and John Talbott has a piece on “Being rather tough” on Cristal de Sel. The hotel handout magazine Where’s Alexander Lobrano wrote up Le Winch, Café de la Paix, Cristal de Sel + le Mini Palais. The other magazine distributed in hotels, Newzy, also featured several new restaurants or new chefs that Jean Pleumartin thinks are worth visiting: Nero Enoteca, Afaria, Chez Ramuleau, l’Eclaireur, Konfusius + Le Cotte Roti. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.