John Talbott

A recent NYT article by Bonnie Tsui on Zermatt suggested eating at Elsie’s Bar, Chez Vrony & Igloo Bar.

No, he was nowhere in evidence.

Daemon: Great report but could you define "not cheap", eg what was your bill?Also when Colette and I went by last week, the wine list was not posted; what sort of numbers are we talking about? Thanks. John

Elsewhere, the issue of wine pairing has arisen, for instance from tupac: And Julot replied: Tupac again: Then Bu: And finally Julot again: So here it is on popular demand.

The Week of March 24th, 2008 Monday in Le Fooding, Alexandre Cammas reviewed Froggy’s in Montreuil-sur-mer, the second resto of who also runs La Genouillère. Tuesday-Wednesday, in ANP, Philippe Toinard had a full page piece on the winner of the Best Baguette in 2008 – Anis Bouabsa of the Duc de la Chapelle in the 18th. Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Chez Michel and found the staff and cooking lacking. Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded three places two hearts: Jean, in the 9th, coordinates in the guides, where the menus now are 65 and 85 and a la carte costs 40-70 € for lentil risotto, Auvergne ham, scallops with quinoa and a chic milk-shake; the Japanese Au Comptoir Nippon in the 15th and La Veraison, 64, rue de la Croix Nivert in the 15th, 01.45.32.39.39 closed Sunday and Mondays, serving morue tartare, pigs’ feet on salad and a blanquette of veal on menus costing 15 and 26 – a la carte about 30-35 €. He awarded one heart only to Le Living Room, 5, rue Crillon in the 4th, 01.42.78.12.69, closed Sundays, serving evenings such food as tartines, wine by the glass and Italian charcuterie. Finally a busted heart went to Toi, 27, rue du Colisee in the 8th, 01.42.56.56.58, open everyday, costing 40-50 € where he says to bring your Maalox for the sautéed escargots, tartare three ways and morille risotto. This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, the gang listed and described business lunches under an hour as follows: Right Bank Pinxo Au Gourmand Drouant Carre des Vosges Le Taste Monde Cafe Lumiere Chez Georges Also Maceo, Maxan, Terrasse Mirabeau + Why Not. Left Bank Le Six Odeon L’Agassin Le Bistrot de l’Alycastre Les Ombres Il Vino Maree Denfert Also La Maison Courtine + Thierry Burlot Haute Gastronomy Laurent Taillevent Carre des Feuillants Jules Verne Bar meals Le 228 Tuileries Vendome Montalembert Le Bar Lounge W Le Lucien. Francois Simon in his Hache Menu went to Les Saveurs de Flora, where one person had the 38 € menu with octopus salad and a pastille and the other a scallop tart for 35 and bar at 48 €, totaling 143 with no wine but two 7 € Chateldons and two 4 € coffees. Thursday, in ParisObs, Philippe Couderc reviewed Grannie, 27, rue Pierre-Leroux in the 7th, 01.47.34.94.14, which he describes as a wine bar between Japan and France, with a 2-course menu at 23 €, menu 32 €, serving dishes such as duck breast teriyaki and lacquered wild bass: verdict – food 12/20, quality-price 13/20. In a much smaller, unrated piece he mentions a 1930’s-ish bistro, L'Aromatik 7, rue Jean-Baptiste-Pigalle in the 9th, 01.48.74.62.27; 01-48-74-62-27, home to the likes of Joséphine Baker and Sidney Bechet serving sugar/salted, spicy, grandmotherish food with clever wines for accessible (menus =14.90-30 €) prices. Friday in Les Echos Jean Louis Galesne reviewed four new places in addition to Gordon’s Ramsey’s Trianon Palace’s classic cuisine: he suggests that rather than spend 130-150 unmerited €’s there, one go to L'Angélique, 42, avenue de Saint-Cloud in Versailles, (close by the chateau), 01.30.84.98.85, closed Sundays and Mondays with a menu carte at 36 euros, run by Régis Dhouysset, who made L'Escarbille in Meudon so successful and the sous-chef there, Alex Guiet, ex-Chibois, ex-Grande Cascade, who designs the menus containing items such as a croque-monsieur with foie gras, quail with pine nut gratinee, roast lotte and saddle of lamb in collaboration with his former chef. The next three places were in Paris: L'Agapé, 51, rue Jouffroy-d'Abbans in the 17th, 01.42.27.20.18, closed Sundays and Mondays, lunch menu at 39, dinner 77 euros and “carte blanche” menu = 110 euros (a la carte about 70) euros, run by Laurent Lapaire, ex director at L'Arpège with chef Bertrand Grebaut, also ex-Alain Passard where the produce comes from folks such as Passard’s veggie man, Annie Bertin and Hugo Desnoyer; the Café Central, ex Caffé Vergnano, 40, rue Cler in the 7th, 01.47.05.00.53 open everyday, running one about 20 € for a playful but affordable carte with salad nicoise, fish & chips, hamburger; and finally, the Bis-Tro Vinsobre, ex-Le Calmont, 35, avenue Duquesne, 7e. Tél. : 01.47.05.67.10, also open everyday and costing about 40 €, run by the folks who run the wine bar, Le Vinsobre, and consisting of the same menu, with meat by “one of the best butchers in Paris" –Jean-Marie Charcelay, 263, rue Saint-Jacques in the 5th, from which come the meats, including tartare and entrecote (served with frites). In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote an article about Anne-Sophie Pic and a Croque Notes about George Blanc. In addition, Alexandra Michot wrote about camembert, l’AOC and raw milk. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article on the Bistrot Poulbot and John Talbott had one on “The Corps of Discovery”. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Friday in Les Echos Jean Louis Galesne mentioned the opening in mid-April of three places: Guilo Guilo, 8, rue Garreau in the 18th, 01.42.54.23.92, already noted here, where famed Kyoto chef Eiichi Edakuni will cook; Territoires, 5, rue de Pontoise in the 5th, a new resto of Sylvain Sendra’s, ex-Temps au Temps, a chef "who never runs out of ideas" and l’Epicure Traditionnelle Cuisine, 2, rue La Pérouse in the 16th, 01.49.52.10.10, a restaurant supervised by Christian Le Squer, Ledoyen, who trained the team with a chef exLa Marée.

La Regalade, L'Os a Moelle, Afaria, or Grand Pan? Well none of their decor is Philippe Starck; all of their ambiance is pleasant and service much the same, maybe Afaria has the edge of pleasant ambiance & service d/t the exuberance of their chef and madame; Afaria also has more room between tables; but even going on food alone I'd give the nod to Afaria ONLY if you sit at the "common table" in the "bar" room where you can get both the tapas and regular stuff wheras in the main room they'll no longer serve the tapas. The tapas are really what makes the place special, just as the cotes make Grand Pan different. Disclosure: it's been years since I've been to l'Os although I ate at their offshoot Les Symples de..... just after it opened; and it's been months since I've been to Regalade, at just the time that Bruno Doucet was breaking away from his Camdeborde carte and hadn't yet found his footing, I hope he has by now. As I say so often tho' nothing is far from the city center, I go from the extreme northern 18th to the extreme southern 14th and 15th without thinking twice. Happy eating and please report back.

Just one question Forest, the last time I was at Harry's before Jan 1, 2008, with my pal the real Martini afficiando, the air was so smoky it was impossible to breathe. I assume now it's clear, but has any of its charm diminished, its charm being how decrepit and dissolute it was? ← I have to say it did, in fact, seem a little cleaner somehow than the last time I went. However, it was still packed with paraphernalia and bustling with a lot of charecter. What was your friend's verdict on the martinis? ← He thought they were quite OK, but since he's a loyal member of the eGSFSCA&L, I'll let him chime in. I'm a cocktail novice, rarely getting beyond a stiff Ricard.

I've already reported on my first meal at the newly taken over Bistro Poulbot aka Poulbot Gourmet and this is a followup. Colette and I ate (it being Friday night) and they were turning people away. I began with an oversalted sweetbread timbale thing with a perfect, indeed best of the month salad. Then both of us had the bar with a tremendously generous portion of veggies - shitakes, artichokes, fennel, apricots and lots of other ones. She finished with their version of a nougat (but this was filled with small bits of crunchy meringue) and a coulis of red fruits. With a bottle of Marcillac, which had no traces of its Gallo-Roman origin, no coffees or bottled water = 73 Euros. For a place walking distance from home - not bad (Colette says 7.5, I stick to 4.5, she counters with 7.5, this is what makes a marriage).

Just one question Forest, the last time I was at Harry's before Jan 1, 2008, with my pal the real Martini afficiando, the air was so smoky it was impossible to breathe. I assume now it's clear, but has any of its charm diminished, its charm being how decrepit and dissolute it was?

March 08 bis – l’Auberge des Saints Peres & Vintage Another superb, “out where?” place. 9.0 Auberge des Saints Peres, 212, av Nonneville in Aulnay sous Bois, 01.48.66.62.11, closed Saturday, Sundays and Wednesday nights is the find of 2008, by my great and wonderful friend Atar. We’ve all passed Aulnay sous Bois a million times on the RER B going from Charles de Gaulle to Paris but who would ever think there’s a Michelin one-star there worth stopping for? Atar, that’s who. We went* on a day that started out brilliantly sunny and a mite chilly but good suburb weather. The RER from the Gare du Nord took maybe 15 minutes and the walk to the resto another 15, but we were well on time for our reservation. And it was truly in the woods. It looks like any old auberge, that is, very aubergy. They gave us two innovative, spicy and tasty cakey amuse bouches and then their version of ouefs mayo which was more like Herve This meets Jean Chauvel (of Les Magnolias). Three of us ordered the 38 € “menu” and one a 32 € “paella”, but more of that later. Two of us had a starter consisting of wheatberries in a dense sauce with caviar and topped with three super scallops; the other starter was a “nougatine” of white chicken liver that sounds weird but was extra-prima. At this point we knew we’d gone from ordinary good food to the sublime. Madame’s “paella” was something the chef said would never pass the test in Valencia, but in Aulnay it sure did – pieces of chicken, pork, scallops, encornets, shrimp, bass, chorizo and bacon with a bowl of paella rice. Two of us had as a main course the nicely cooked rascasse with flavored aspic circles underneath, served with delicious, small veggies; the other “on menu” main consisted of two incredible pieces of veal onglet with capers and spicy tomato sauce and a cornetto of fried squid. Just as I was beginning to dig in, the chef sent over two side treats – his own version of catsup and a three layered potato delight. The cheese spread was very impressive, the three of us having the “menu” never repeated anyone else’s selections. Then we were presented with a “pre-dessert” of a fluffy thing made from some flower atop an intense syrup. We had three desserts: agrumes with citronelles (made bubbly with “aspirin”); pineapple with a flambéed cap and something he described as “it started as an apple tart but…..” which had no pastry but good apple slices laid on top of a circle of aspic made from really concentrated apple juice. The mignardises included a “marshmallow,” centrifuge tube with crème and a flower wafer. The bill was 113.25 € per couple. I’ve described lots of food, but trust me, the portions were not too large and we did not leave the restaurant feeling over-fed, just very content and ready for a leisurely walk back to the RER. *On my only visit, March 18th, I was “outed” as reviewing the place but comp’d to nothing. Go? First chance you get to jump off the RER, do so. Filling the Sunday lunch hole. 6.0 Vintage*, 46, rue d’Argout in the 2nd, 01.40.26.57.54, open 7/7, lunch menu weekdays at 15 €, a la carte 25-30 €. Wow, did this place slip under the radar screen. While it was mentioned in passing in Figaroscope in an article on new decors and reviewed in the JDD, only Richard Hesse in Paris Update gave it the full treatment. We went on a Sunday, always a tough day on which to find good luncheon food and were dazzled by the tables and chairs, photos of stars from Chevalier to Loren, Sinatra CD’s and college banners from Drake to Duke. I started (and indeed Colette helped nicely because it was huge) with a cassolette of pleurotes sauteed in butter, oil, garlic, parsley, shallots and chives – yum. Then I had an entire foie gras which was almost raw in the center and crispy brown on the outside with a Balsamic sauce that I thought was fantastic and she, a duck breast on a pile of pureed carrots (very good) that she judged too tough but I thought was OK. We ended by sharing a serving of fondant of chocolate (two slices of chocolate) with a crème anglaise that was terrific. With a natural red wine, good warmed bread, Lavazza coffee and one calva = 64.50 €. * Our last meal here was March 16th, fully paid for. Go? You bet; it’s another Sunday lunch option. PS They say they receive fish delivery Mon - Fri so we'll try some one day too.

Le Clocher Pereire deserved another (our third) visit and from our place the schlep isn't that bad. We took two French friends from the other side of town who rarely leave the Left Bank and even they didn't complain. In any case, we four had the 29 E menu and I sampled the foie gras, rare lamb, pied de porc, scallops, chocolate moelleux; all were just fine. The bill was 165.00 Euros with two bottles of wine, coffe but no bottled water.

Wow, thanks Zouave, this is great info! ← Yah well, I went by today en route to Le Clocher Pereire and the 39 menu has no choices but veggies and a plat de jour; the 77 has some choices and the a la carte has entrees starting about 22 E. Not for my budget esp in that part of town.

8.5 Passiflore in the 16th - An Update on a one star with a 38 Euro luncheon. A coupla months ago, my best food finder friend, Atar, told me he’d gone back to a place we'd had a half-dozen good meals at a while back, Passiflore in the 16th, and had the 38 (it says 35 in the Michelin but they lie) Euro menu at lunch and it was terrific. Colette and I drifted by to scope the menu and decided it didn’t look interesting, but then Atar said he’d gone again and I was hooked. Colette and I went today and were quite impressed. We entered between rain/sleet storms and were nicely greeted, but Colette missed the large vases of flowers she had enjoyed on our last visit. We were seated at a very discrete distance from other tables (0.5 points) where we could talk - too often, in French restaurants, we find ourselves seated cheek by jowl with the other diners, even if there are only a few occupied tables within a larger space. They gave us the carte with the luncheon menu without our having to ask (0.5 points), put salt and pepper on the table without our having to ask (0.5 points) and served us their fine bread and butter (0.5 points). Then, they brought a wonderful cold cucumber soup sweetened with something of roses. Colette started off with microtomed pleurottes with salad leaves and a parsley squiggle alongside, quite good; and I had an incredible “flan” of foie gras with mushrooms and a “cappuccino” of them. Next, she had the panache of poisson with seaweed and eggplant and a fluffy sauce (he’s into that) and I the toasted quail with a mushroom (enoki this time) sauce that was boosted by some foie gras I’m sure. Finally, I had the baba au rhum which was traditional and good and Colette the chocolate moelleux with ice cream. Then nummies and good coffee and we were out for 117.50 E. Go? Indeed, but it ain’t Ledeuil, although it’s trying.

Interesting you mention this; Just 2 hours ago I went to their website for Toulon and Hyeres and it was quite helpful. But as always, I was just reporting what Ribaut reported. John, This leaves out www.guidegantie.com which is excellent for South East France. ←

Today, in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribaut wrote about a promotion of regional food at reasonable prices by members of the “Chateau Hotel” group where 100 chefs are going to serve lunch menus during the week for 28 Euros until April 30th. In Paris this includes Rech, Aux Lyonnais + Benoit, eg the Ducasse places.

Today, in Le Monde Jean Claude Ribaut wrote an article on the various food guides: two things of interest, one - that there are now 510 Michelin Bib gourmands of which 94 are new, two - that so many guides now have web presences: www.michelinguide.com www.bottingourmand.com www.guides-gaultmillau.fr www.routard.com/guide www.tables-auberges.com www.relaisdusilence.com www.relaischateaux.com

One more visit and one more blowout meal for 91.30 E for two (altho' full disclosure, I and we were treated to a long, long and fascinating chat with Mr. L., a coupla soups of carrot with shrimp, basil, mushrooms and was it coconut milk?, a glass of wine and an extra dessert). I started with scallops with bulots and asparagus, all microtomed - just heaven! Then came the comp'd carrot and shrimp soup. Then Colette had the lotte with lemongrass, white asparagus and green beans? thinly sliced and I tiny chicken wings (cheapest product on the planet) and sweetbreads (hardly so) - so so good. Finally Colette ordered the orange/ginger cake with a sorbet of blood oranges and lemongrass and we both enjoyed it. Bottom line - better and better and for one star, incredible.

Three pieces of news from this AM's Figaroscope: Restaurant Jean in the 9th has now an ex-Gagnaire chef and American patissiere. The Carette in the 16th has reopened. There will be a restaurant ephemere at the foot of the Musee d'Orsay from Saturday March 29th to Tuesday April 1st cooking fish and crustaceans under the guidance of David Van Laer, exMaxence. Edited to fix verb regarding Jean.

Thank you both Pti and tonkitchi: I'll try to work on separating the shopping from eating places since I think they both deserve their own topics. And, we should really get topics going on different Asian cuisines, since even in Paris, places like the fine Lao Lane Xang 2 and not so fine 3 traiteurs in my block have a blend of Viet-Thai-Chinese-Lao dishes. And I'd love, tonkichi, to hear more about Malaysian food here. Host's Note: I've moved most of the restaurant info to a new topic on Ethnic restos in Paris so we can concentrate on Shopping on Sundays after 2 PM here. John

L’Idee in Levallois (really just across the peripherique) – A revisit. Three of us went back today, well, I went back with Colette and our exigent friend, who hadn’t been before, and despite slightly tough beef in the entrecote, we thought that they are holding up very well, indeed. They (despite their super reviews) still offer a 2-course formula with wine or bottled water and coffee at 24 Euros – what a deal! We started off with two confited herring dishes with warmed sliced potatoes and onions – delicious! Then my guest from the Left Bank and I had the entrecote with béarnaise sauce and fried potatoes: they didn’t get either cut of beef, blue or bloody enough for me, although we traded plates, but the béarnaise and potatoes were outasight. Meanwhile Colette had the dorade royale with a tomato stuffing and a delicious side dish of fennel. The desserts included rice pudding (pretty good) and a well prepared moelleux of chocolate (as opposed to yesterday’s overcooked version at Les Bouchons). The bill for three was 115.50 Euros. But we had to walk 100 meters from the Metro stop. Gosh!

Another update: Les Bouchons de Francois Clerc: Jean-Pierre & Philippe Yesterday Colette and I went back to a place a buddy and I ate at not too long ago and loved. Change #1 No menu anymore at lunch (at least on Easter Monday). Therefore no 3 courses for 28 Euros, which with 1 glass of wine, bottled water and coffee = 33 Euros. Change #2 Lotsa CRS outside awaiting Tibetan protesters. Change #3 Chef sat at table in the salle the whole time chatting up his backers rather than cooking or even finishing off dishes in the kitchen. So we had a somewhat different experience. The olives, warm bread and wine were all good. My starter of raviolis of langoustines and greens was great but lacked salt/oompf. Her bar with roughly-cut ratatouille was - bar=bland, ratatouille=terrific. My veal was properly cooked and its veggie side of olives, confited citron, baby artichokes, semi-dried tomatoes and sauce was over the top. The chocolate, touted by our enthusiastic waiter, was in fact a typical moelleux, except over-cooked, so there was very little moelleux and much dried cake. The bill = 101.90 Euros/2. All in all, not a bad meal for me, but not good for Madame, she who brooks no lapses. On average - a 6.5 I'd say.

It just occured to me that there's a terra becoming cognita, between the Gares (du Nord + de l'Est) and Marx Dormoy that has a host of ethnic places open Sunday afternoons. As for I'd encourage you to start one. Since I've recently decided that it's OK to eat non-French food in the PM and w/e's, I'd be delighted to chime in.John

The Week of March 17th, 2008 Monday-Tuesday, in ANP, Jerome Berger reviewed Lao Lane Xang 2 coordinates given before and his sidekick Philippe Toinard did Le Petit Bordelais ditto for coordinates, where he mildly critiques the place for too much emphasis on Bordeaux wines – which of course is its theme. Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed two established couscous places Le Clair de Lune + Chez Omar in the 2nd and 3rd respectively. Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded only one resto two hearts: Les Cotelettes, 4, impasse Guemenee in the 4th, 01.42.72.08.45, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Mondays, where the Benard group (Les Zingots + Que du Bon) serve a 15 € lunch formula (a la carte is 35-50 €) with dishes such as: mackerel in white wine sauce, minced duck with ginger, andouillette made with white wine and mixed fruit dessert. He awarded one heart to three places: Les Rustres, 9 rue Antoine Vollon in the 12th, 01.43.47.18.01, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, running one about 35-45 € a la carte for a salad with haddock, onglet with shallots and prunes in Armagnac; the Café Barjot, 18, ave Ledru-Rollin in the 12th, 01.43.43.46.07, open 7/7 serving a 13 € lunch formula and a la carte about 30 € for a terrine, blanqueete of veal and crepes; and The Cool, 13, rue Medicis in the 6th, 01.43.25.21.81, open 7/7, serving a brunch plate, eggs Benedict and lemon tart. A broken heart went to 23 Mazarine, 23, rue Mazarine in the 6th, 01.43.26.40.24, closed Sundays and Mondays and costing 26 for a lunch formula and 50-60 € a la carte for shrimp and guacamole, filet of beef and asparagus and morel dessert (not funny). This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, Colette Monsat rated 11 jambon-buerre sandwiches as follows: 15.5/20 Creperie du Comptoir 14 Comptoir de la Gastronomie 13 Rene Saint Ouen 12.5 Au Panetier 12 Gourmet Gourmand 11.5 La Fournee d’Augustine, Julien + Fauchon 10.5 Gosselin + Boulanger de Monge 10 Boulangerie Lame, Moisan, Delmontel + Au pain quotidien 9.5 Stohrer + Au Petrin d’Antin 9 Boulangerie des Invalides 8.5 Duc de ll Chapelle 7.5 Au Levain du Marais + Paul 7 Class’Croute 5 Kayser 4.5 Pomme de Pain And Francois Simon in his Hache Menu at La Maree, had a sandwich and two cappuccinos for 17 €, and says to go. Thursday in ParisObs, Philippe Couderc reviewed 23 Mazarine, coordinates given above, but as opposed to Emmanuel Rubin, who gave it a busted heart, he awarded it 14/20 for the food and 13/20 for quality-price. He also visited two places demoted by the Michelin being puzzled because he thought Le Grand Vefour was an 18/20 and Le Duc 17-18/20. Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos wrote up restaurants in Chantilly that included: Dolce Chantilly, l’hotel Chateau Mont Royal, l’Auberge de la Grange, l’Open House, Le Goutillon + l’English Shop, the last a tea salon. In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote an article about two places worlds apart – Taillevent + le Rollin, 92, ave Ledru-Rollin in the 11th, 01.48.06.51.92, closing days not given. He says that despite the loss of a star and Jean-Claude Vrinat, life goes on at the former where much is the same but he made an error in ordering the 70 € menu (scallops OK, cod not, sable with fraises des bois stingy). At the latter he describes the chef as working lovingly to prepare the entrecote and cod (again, this time good) on a 13 € menu (the price of two coffees at Taillevent). Saturday-Sunday’s JDD had the usual starred chef’s two favorites in Paris: in this case Philippe Auge of l’Hostellerie de Levernois picking Karl et Erick + l’Ampere. In addition, there was yet another article on Gordon Ramsay’s take/make-over of the Trianon Palace. Finally, in the version Femina mag, Astrid T’Serclaes interviewed Alain Ducasse about his favorite markets. He prefers: Japanese patisserie Toraya Japanese epicerie Kyoko Japanese deluxe cantine Hanawa Fine Spanish epicerie Jabuge & Co Universal epicerie Le Monde des Epices aka M. Izrael Chinese market Paris Store. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article on Copenhague and the Crillon and John Talbott had one on “The Sunday Lunch Blues”. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

An update: Today we treated my long-ago French teacher, now turned diplomat, his English lawyer wife and their two kids to lunch at Lao Lane Xang 2 and it was again just great. We had slightly different things this time: nems, Thai chicken/shrimp, Thai coco duck, chicken with veggies, lacquered duck, seasonal veggies, shrimp with basil, - all great but then spectacular flans for dessert. The bill = 105E40 with lotsa wine, but no bottled water or coffee.