John Talbott
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So as not to double post; I'll merely refer interested parties in my recent experience there, to the topic on Eating in the Cotswolds; bottom line: I agree more with Nickloman than Alex, whom otherwise I greatly admire. And she was there and cooking that meal.
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Since we were leaving Heathrow relatively early, we decided to stay and eat nearby. I have enjoyed Gordon Ramsay’s eating essays (as in tries not writings) for a number of years in London and Paris and was interested to find that he had a pub, the Devonshire, not too far away, in Chiswick, a Bobo heaven I suspect, where parking was nigh impossible. There is a 2-course menu for 18.50 and 3-courses for 22.50, both with a glass of wine. We started with tasty fishcakes with tartar, a soup and a poached salmon. For the mains, I had the pork cutlet and it was ample but not terribly impressive tasting despite the lentil “sauce,” indeed none of the food was, including the asparagus and root vegetables. The “banoffee” pie and lemon sponge with clotted cream were acceptable. The service as well as timing between dishes was horrible. Our bill with a bottle and glass of wine was 101.59 ₤ before the imposed 12% service charge (which I would for the first time this week not have paid, had I the choice.)
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My report on a week's eating in and around the Cotswolds:
The Masons Arms in Swerford (Chipping Norton) was a place that has a Michelin Bib Gourmand and its 2-course 14.95 or 3 course for 17.95 ₤ menu was a bargain; I was tempted to order from the a la carte side until I saw that one a la carte course alone could equal that of the 3 course menu. In any case, three of us ordered the 2-courser, sampling a very fine crispy fried John Dory with a nice orange sauce, a mixed rocket salad and the soup special, a spicy lentil soup. Not only were all good - the greens that came with them were local produce at their best (NB all produce, including meats, were designated by producer). Our mains were an a la carte aubergine, mushroom and ricotta casserole, a shin of beef stew, Gloucester old spot pork smothered with vegetables and a wild mushroom risotto – all of which were fresh, well-made and interesting. The cheeseboard consisted of 6 cheeses, all of which I was only vaguely aware of except the stinking bishop, but all of which were good and different. With a bottle of wine our bill = 81.25 ₤ (for four) before tip.
In the evening we wanted simple light pub grub but the place I hankered for was hosting a big party so we opted for #2 – The Horse and Groom in Oddington, described somewhere as a “posh pub.” Well it certainly is that with a rather restaurant like menu with (again) lots of fresh, local products that were well-prepared and tasty. We four shared two large bruschetti with garlic, tomatoes and melted goats’ cheese and a platter of garden fresh green asparagus with oil and a very decent green salad. Then two of us shared the cold salmon with a tart dill sauce and warm potato salad and two of us had whole haddock, beautifully fried with a nice tartar sauce and not so great fried potatoes. We shared three desserts: fresh local strawberries, a lemon/passion fruit tart and an apple crumble; all tasty and while not inventive, certainly not disgraceful. With 3 glasses of white wine and three pints of local brew our bill was 105.75 ₤ for the four of us.
The Horse & Groom in Bourton on the Hill, was touted as the Good Pub Guide Gloucestershire Dining Pub of the Year 2009 and we can see why. We were advised that the parking was tight and it was but not too much. Despite its modern/local food, it has an old feel to it: order food and wine at the bar from the big chalkboards, sit at untableclothed tables and go at it. We went straight to the mains; three of us ordering the magnificent ”organic” sea trout with dill butter, the other ordering a very tasty lemon sole with vegetables grown near the ocean – both came with fried, boiled or dauphinoise potatoes, carrots and greens. All our portions were most generous, indeed verging on American sized portions, about which I’ll write more. The desserts were simply spectacular; a dense flourless chocolate cake and what was called a toffee/coffee meringue that belies description. So far this was our favorite place. Our bill with one bottle of wine, a coke and 4 coffees of which one was Irish, was 93.40 ₤ before tip.
We had read about The Kingham Plough in Kingham and its description as the “perfect gastropub” in resource Magazine and the “best gastropub in the Cotswolds” here. It’s chef’d by Emily Watkins, who despite being pregnant, was cooking tonight and who’d spent a few years at the Fat Duck, before El Bulli, oft reputed to be the best resto in the world, and saw this as the highlight of our trip. We were sadly disappointed. We started with two items from the bar menu: a bar salad (great, splendid, terrific greens, etc., but a nul dressing) and a “hand-raised pork pie” which was ho-hum, de-dum, but manageable because of a “Ploughman’s Pickle,” a turnip chutney-type accompaniment and from the regular menu, potted Cornish crab, the most forgettable dish since that at Bertie’s at the Hotel Baltimore in Paris (who likes potted anything, I ask myself?) As some have noted, the service aka kitchen-salle delivery ain’t in double time, it’s really slooooow. For mains we had four totally unexciting dishes, from top to bottom- a nice filet of Hereford beef with (why would they make a big deal of it?) tasteless triple cooked chips, a “roast” (why the parens?) quail stuffed with mushrooms and a sauce that with a ton of salt was OK, line caught Cornish pollack (oh my) with an OK potato pancake and good spinach and (my dish) an unspeakably bland lamb pudding with pointy cabbage of which I searched for the point. Desserts were a terrific (yes, indeed) toffee doughnut with a “milkshake” (a misuse of that great American concept if ever I tasted one) and an acceptable rhubarb and almond tart, alright, it was edible. With two bottles of terrific Bordeaux, no coffee, etc, our bill before tip was 128.80 ₤, so far the worst price-quality ratio of the trip.
The Wykham Arms in Sibford Gower is, like most places we’ve dined at in the Cotswolds, often the beaten track and absent of tour buses (leading me to wonder where these hoards of folks dine when out from London). Anyway, we were between Upton House and Chastleton House and found a Michelin rec that sounded better than the alternatives in Harden’s, the Good Food and Good Pub Guides. It looked much like most pubs in Britain, I’ve now concluded, and had a friendly welcome – ditto. Colette started with the special first: a mushroom soup that she declared (and I agree) was almost up to her own; I had a green salad that was once again hardly dressed at all, unlike French and American or Japanese salads, but maybe that’s the way they like them here; and the kids had a series of dishes they called tapas, but I’d call antipasti – artichokes, sundried tomatoes, parsley pesto, brochette, etc; and a salad with warmed goat cheese, prosciutto (another UK favorite it seems) and Provencal vegetables. For mains, Colette chose a cheese board that she and I thought was good; I had a sirloin that was rare as ordered, tough but tasty (much preferred to tender and tasteless) with worthless fries in goose fat; and the kiddies had another warm salad and wood mushrooms on toast with a red onion marmalade that was super-fresh and super-good. With an ale, a bottle of French plonk (terrific), three cappuccinos and an Irish our bill was 81.50 ₤.
What was that old dictum: “life is short, eat dessert first?” Ah. The Fox and Hounds in Great Wolford was a charming place, little heralded except for the note in the “Good Pub Guide” that the chef here made “thoughtfully prepared food,” would that it was/were. We all ordered fish for our everythings; sea bream, turbot and hake (in a fish and chips deal); the ladies was OK, but my hake was clearly frozen, then fried in beer-batter, and resulted in a mushy-mooshy mess. The carrots, cabbage and salad (with asked-for vinegar and oil to add) were OK, the potatoes, so-so. But the desserts, especially the warm steam pudding with toffee and clotted cream, were fabulous. With a lemonade, bottle and glass of blanc and one tea, our bill was 89.90 ₤
Today we were invited to a home in Warwickshire where our delightful hosts, two incredibly savvy gardening-cooking food mavens, prepared one of the most wonderfully “local” feasts since Marlene’s 75 miles outside Toronto of ferns, peameal bacon sandwiches, butter tarts, Canadian cheese and wines. Today it was a mound of thin, super fresh local asparagus with goat butter and salt that started us off. Our main course was a huuugge salmon trout with parsley and lemon and sorrel and spinach sauce that was the best fish of the trip. There were also great new potatoes and samphire and a salad of radishes and their greens, rocket and chive flowers – fab! A palate cleanser was outstanding – raspberry granite made from their home grown berries. Next, the cheese board consisted of two English cheeses, goat and milk and a French sheep, all delicious and all from the supermarket. We ended with local strawberries; some of us added cream and sugar, but I had mine “nude” and they were great. Our bill was 8.25 ₤, our house gift.
The Fox in Lower Oddington was described as “tables close together...noisy” by our hosts but in fact it was quite calm. We choose a lot of firsts, having had a most ample repas. Altogether we had the asparagus soup that was fine but not (by my lights) as good as Colette’s; moules, also quite good and properly undercooked; a tomato mache salad with pesto; and a risotto with spinach and Parmesan – good not great sez C. I held out for the only main; a lamb shank with garlic and red wine sauce – so-so. The desserts were a very good chocolate tart with amoretto crust and crème anglaise and a good toffee pudding that was not up to yesterday’s gold standard. The bill, with 2 bottles of wine and no coffees/teas/etc, was 87.50 ₤.
As part of a day of seeing gardens off the Cotswold chart (the Hidcote Manor & Kiftsgate Court) we ate in nearby Chipping Campden at the Eight Bells Manor. We had a number of firsts and sides: a nice mixed salad (this time, by my lights, properly dressed), a wonderful mushroom soup, a great home smoked trout and horseradish “pate” and very tasty fried onion rings; all of which I liked. The ladies then had fine home-smoked salmon and prawn salads and lemon sole and I had a funny looking fried lamb chop smothered with a sauce that escaped my appreciation meter. The desserts were mixed though; an apple cobbler was great but the toffee pudding was not among the best of breed. With a bottle of wine, a Coke, a tea and four coffees (of which, one was Irish), our bill was 100.25 ₤.
Our dinner was once again a home-cooked affair at the Lower Farm House, a very lovely and comfortable B&B where we were staying this week. Zelie and Nicholas Mason cooked and wined up another fine experience. The first course, offered in their lovely living room along with wine, included quail eggs dipped into celery salt along with a toast topped with a zippy guacamole and shrimp; both terrific. Ǻ table, there was local roast loin of spotted pork (including the wonderful crisped rind) with a citron sauce, mange-touts, roasted red peppers with feta-like cheese, anchovies and baby tomatoes as well as new potatoes. For dessert there was a crème brûlée with berries (in my case specially prepared). What a delicious dinner and the company was delightful. Hats off to our hosts – Zelie and Nicholas. Our bill = 120 ₤.
The Bell in Sapperton was listed as a triple (food, wine & beer) winner in The Good Pub Guide and we were in the area for gardens again (Miserden + North Cerney) and the Roman Villa at Chedworth. Three of us had the crayfish soup special - that was a mistake - it always is a mistake to order the same thing, but this soup seemed to be unique on pub menus this trip, so we broke our rule. It was pretty watery and lacked oomph; luckily though, one daughter had ordered a tapenade with great bread, and she found it “too assertive,” so being inventive, Colette and I put some in the soup with ground salt and pepper et voila, it was terrific! Our other daughter had a microherb (whatever that is) salad that she enjoyed. For mains we had a confit de canard served on a very (terrifically) spicy aubergine ratatouille-type bed (with too generous veggie and potato sides); two others had the appetizer portion of a lightly grilled filet of sea bass and the fourth had a filet of sole. All were quite good. Desserts were a raspberry bakewell tart and the sticky toffee pudding (#4 on this trip, pretty good stacked up against the rest). With 125 cl of wine, a Coke, and four coffees (again one Irish), our bill was 112.65 ₤.
The Old Butchers in Stow. This may have been the best meal so far. It’s a Miche Bibendum in the heart of touristland, sited in an old butcher shop, but you wouldn’t know it, being only ½ full and totally occupied by locals (some of whose plumage and piercings were really weird, even to a hardened metropolitan). We had the lentil soup with spinach and cumin with a dollop of yogurt (delicious), scallops (perfectly cooked with their coral), and baby gems (ah ha, gotcha there) and avocado salad. Then after much Jack Nicolson Five Easy Pieces-type negotiations about a meat sans slabber and rare, I had the sirloin with butter which was, as it is in the UK, tough but tasty, not tender and tasteless. Others had the salad of peas, asparagus and parmesan (so so) and more scallops. Desserts were a chocolate fondant (aka moelleux), had by my daughter who makes the Platinum Standard of this dish for us at home, and a rhubarb-oatmeal crumble which was really great. The bread was great, the music was dreadful and too loud and the service was mixed: Madame very thoughtfully provided a print-out that answered our question about the difference between a single and a double Gloucester cheese, but the sub altern who brought our bill asked for photo ID to verify my cleverly scribbled doctor/French signature. Our bill with two bottles of wine, no coffees and no frou-frou was 103.50 ₤.
The Red Lion in Steeple Aston is just a spit and a whistle from the Rousham Gardens where the gang was visiting. We were told by our amiable host that it used to be a small pub but had added a restaurant that was quite small (it sits about 28 covers). There’s a full menu and we had a good carrot soup, mushrooms with cream and garlic and a wonderful and intriguing dish of scallops, crisp bacon and blood sausage. Mains were three “warm salads” each prepared on the bed of lettuce; crisp, fully cooked slices of duck breast (that were fine but not what I was expecting), salmon that was tasteless despite the ginger sauce on top, beef and a serving of a cheese and onion tart that was declared good but too much. With a glass of local cider, a bottle of wine and no desserts, our bill was 92.35 ₤.
Summary:
Best meals: The Old Butchers in Stow and The Horse & Groom in Bourton on the Hill.
Biggest disappointment and poorest price-quality ratio: The Kingham Plough in Kingham
Consistently good: Cheese and sticky toffee puddings.
Most improved over 50 years: breads.
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Since I asked this question I thought I'd report on my experience with the guides after 11 meals in and about the Cotswolds and one in Chiswick (the Devonshire). I found no one of the four I bought (Michelin, Good Food, Good Pub + Hardens) superduper but using all four was able (with the help of friends) to triangulate. One complaint I have is that, as opposed to French guides I'm used to (Pudlo, Michelin, Lebey) that have some numbering or symbol system, it was hard to tell what would be the best place in a town or area. In any case thanks to all for helping me out.Greetings:The topic on food guides about London has some hints of what guides might be good for restos outside but I'd appreciate knowing folks' advice regarding restaurant/bisto/pub guides that are strong outside the London area.
We are particularly interested in one(s) like Italy's Osterie/Slow Food Guide or Southern France's Guide Gantié, that is, for places with good product, well prepared, decor and elegance immaterial. And obviously we're not looking for French food.
Thanks.
John
John
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The Week of June 1st, 2009
Tuesday, Perrick Jegu, in l’Express reviewed Le Tourbillon, 45, rue Claude Bernard in the 5th, 01.47.07.86.32, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, whose chef, Cédric Tessier, passed through the houses of Dutournier and Rostang, and who prepares gambas, sweet and sour salad, pork cheeks and pineapples for 16 for a formula at lunch, 24 for two dishes and 27 € for the menu-carte. In addition, Wednesday, in l'Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry wrote up the hit-of-the-season Frenchie on his blog.
Tuesday, as well, Anna Polonsky reviewed the San Franciscan sushi bar Rice Fish in the 3rd.
Tuesday also, ANP ‘s Jerome Berger gave 4/5 dots to Les Fougeres, 10, rue Villebois-Moreuil in the 17th, 01.40.68.78.66, closed weekends, lunch menu-carte at 25; dinner 36 and 60, a la carte 60 € for chef Stephane Duchiron (who trained with Savoy and Lameloise) serves risotto with tomato, veal rolls and a savarin dessert; while Philippe Toinard only gave 1/5 to La Ferme de l’Oncle Franck, 5, rue des Petits Hotels in the 10th, 01.40.22.03.95. closed weekends too, with 24 and 30 € menus which are long, duplicative of many others, with many non-seasonal items that are also not true to its regional theme - Auvergne specialties.
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts to 4 places: the photo-op went to Cru, 7, rue Charlemagne in the 4th, 01.40.27.81.84, closed Sunday dinner and Mondays, costing 19 at lunch and 35-40 € for dinner for bar carpaccio, green asparagus, seiche and iced yogurt; and the other three were l’Ambassade des Terroirs, 45 rue Perre-Timbaud in Gennevilliers, 01.47.98.39.26, closed Sundays and Monday at dinner, serving sweetbreads, wild asparagus, duck breast and pear in wine on 28 and 32 menus, a la carte 40-50 €; the successfully-moved Vin Chai Moi, to 18, rue Duphot in the 8th, 01.40.15.06.69, closed Sundays and Mondays, with 19 and 24 menus and menu-cartes at 24 and 27 €, for a terrine of the day, beef cheeks and lamb shoulder; and Le Tourbillon, coordinates above with pintade, veal and white chocolate mousse. One heart went to Le Manoir, 229, ave Gambetta in the 20th, 01.43.61.38.47, closed Sundays, with 12 and 14 formulas and a la carte 20-25 € with items such as oeuf mayo, farm chicken with fries and crème caramel.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Colette Monsat and Alexandra Michot reviewed ten restaurants in lovely squares:
Eduard VII
Café Guitry
Fontaine de Mars
Les Fables de la Fontaine
Dauphine
Paul
Marche St-Honore
l’Absinthe
Gaillon
Fontaine Gaillon
Breteuil
Bistro de Breteuil
Gustave Toudouze
Kastoori
Maurice Chevalier
La Bouche
d’Aligre
La Table d’Aligre
New discoveries in this new section called Passe plats
Chez les Anges for the 34 E menu-carte
Taillevent for the selection of wines with the 80 E lunch
Passage 53 for the Desnoyer veal.
Les Deux Abeilles for the adorable patio.
And Francois Simon went to the restaurant Metropolitan in the hotel of the same name, 85, rue de Longchamp in the 16th, 01 56 90 40 03 ; bottom line : it’s like 2,250 other places in Paris.
Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse, in Paris Update reviewed Bollywood Lounge in the 5th.
Friday, on his blog, Alexander Lobrano discussed three recent meals, a great and inexpensive one at the Asian Au Coin des Gourmets, an excellent one at La Cour Jardin and an uneven and expensive one at the Maison de l’Amerique Latine.
Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about the Maison de l'Amerique Latine & Hotel Banque and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Eating at Home - I”
Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
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It's that time of year again when folks seek out terrace dining;
This week, Thierry Richard has written up several other terraces of note:
Les Jardins Plein Ciel
Chez Julien
Saut de Loup +
Au Pere Lapin in Surenses [a place I really like].
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Ah, a subject after my own heart. Margaret Pilgrim, I do believe, raised the question of whether or not to tell about one's "secret finds" [my emphasis]. My policy since Day 1 has been to tell all; because by the time the Gourmet, (not A. Lobrano, mind you,) photographers show up at L'Ourcine or the Japanese food crits are at the next table at Dominique Bouchet, it's all over and one moves on - to Frenchie, yam’Tcha, Shan Gout, Passage 53, Marcab, Reminet, etc., etc. Secrets neither stay in Las Vegas or Paris.All this brings up a somewhat related subject. Assuming that this was "a really great and (relatively) undiscovered" Paris Bistro and it was in the news like it has been. Could it remain "a really great and (relatively) undiscovered" Paris Bistro?" Or would it be ruined by the hordes of AMerican tourists that will descend.
And don't sites like this in some ways bring about the destruction of what they value? By posting a report on an out of the way place, are we not risking the that too many of us will find the place. Is all this perhaps a giant restaurant "Ponzi" scheme where we seek out the new before the rest of us get there and ruin it?
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The Week of May 25th, 2009
Monday Francois-Regis Gaudry on his blog reviewed Le 58, 58 Tour Eiffel in the 7th, 08 25 56 66 62, where one can eat burgers, fries, etc for 19 €.
Tuesday, Yves Nespoulous reviewed Le 7e Continent in Rixheim.
Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to La Garconniere, 98 rue Michel-Ange in the 16th, 01 46 51 27 50, open 7/7, costing a la carte 20-38 € and positions itself between a chic bistro and brasserie, serving items such as foie gras poached in red wine, an œuf mayo, heirloom tomatoes and strawberries and Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 4/5 dots to the new Caius annex - Zinc Caius, 11, rue d’Armaillee in the 17th, 01.44.09.05.10, closed Sundays, a la carte about 30 €, where he liked the lardo on lentils, rilettes of rabbit with foie gras and chocolate mousse.
Wednesday, in l'Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry wrote up the smoothie place Totum in the 10th and Thursday the pizza place La Campionissmo in the 2nd.
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts and the photo-op to Zinc Caius, see above; he also liked the lard with lentils, rabbit with prunes and warm cherries and to Anacréon, 53, bd Saint-Marcel in the 13th, 01 43 31 71 18, closed weekends chef'd by an ex-Bistrot de Marius), serving a no salt lunch for 19 €, a la carte 30-40 € with items such as fleur de sel on sardines and fresh herbs on langoustines, a tarte fine of rouget, grilled sole and moelleux of chocolate. One heart each went to Kitchen, 74, rue des Gravilliers in the 3rd, 09.50.06.36.18, closed Saturdays, but open only from 8 AM – 3 PM for 10-15 € smoothies, soup, etc and Louis 2, 16, rue de la Tremoille in the 8th, 01.56.52.14.14 open 7/7, with a lunch formula at 35 and a la carte 40-50 € for green asparagus and egg, tuna “hamburger,” and lemon cheesecake.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Colette Monsat and Sylvain Verut reviewed the new terrace restaurants:
Plain
Le 51
Very Little Italy [sic]
Al Taglio only in the evening
Quiet
Le Carre Rouge, Studio SFR, 9, rue Tronchet in the 8th, 01.43.12.75.00, closed Sundays, a la carte about 25 €.
Starck System
Mama Shelter
Plain sky
Zyriab
Garden court
Jardin d’Ampere
Dejeuner sur l’herbe
Roland Garros
Food in shop
Primo piano
And for several parasols
Les Ombres, Café Guitry, Laurent, Le Bistro de Breteuil, Le Moulin de la Galette, Le Square Trousseau, Chez Lena & Mimile
New discoveries in this new section called Passe plats
Astier for filet de sole
Granterroirs for gambas
l’Arvor for a coffee in a charming hotel.
News
The Mini-Palais will be closed from the end of May until mid October.
And Francois Simon went to the Bar 30 in the Hôtel Sofitel, 15, rue Boissy d'Anglas in the 13th, 01 44 94 14 14 for cod, etc. He says to go if you're in the area for 98,50 €.
Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed Les Enfants Perdus, 9, rue des Récollets in the 10th, 01 81 29 48 26, open 7/7 except for brunch Sundays, lunch formula at 15 and a la carte about 36 € which has name-brand and fresh products and serves dishes such as pumpkin soup, calamari cassolet, dorade with vegetables and and array of desserts.
Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Market & Le Sud and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “F.A.Q.
“John, What exactly do you do over there (here)?”
While Francois Simon’s Saturday “Croques Notes” are not posted on the Figaro website, I have a sneaky suspicion that he wrote about Jacques Maximin’s coming to Rech from Vence, because such an article appeared today on his blog. Two negative points, he’s not there everyday and the bill comes to 80 € per, considerably more than it has been.
Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
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Have you checked our compendium on cooking classes? Let us know if any links are broken. Thanks.
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My take is as follows (I too live there/here):
La Table d'Eugene spectacular
Guilo-Guilo too much of a much
La Famille ditto
Cottage Marcadet OK
16 Tholozé Quite OK
L'Oxalis A friend reported a bad one after I touted it.
Le Winch My last meal was awful
Le Square did not like
Also to be considered Miroir, Le Cafe qui Parle + Bistrot Poulbot
But definately to avoid:
Chamarre Montmartre, Moulin de la Galette
And kinda kicky: Le Truc + 2 Pieces Cuisine.
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I had a wonderful evening meal there but also have made reservations two other times for lunch and they've been closed without explanation.Is Mon Oncle any good? -
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Indeed, his website reveals that last week he started taking reservations last week for dinner on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday evenings and next Saturday, May 30th he’s “starting a new formula at SPRING. Service all day... no reservations. Champagne, cold beer and LOBSTER SANDWICHES. Just what you always wanted during an economic crisis- a pricey luxury sandwich and enough cheap booze to help you forget about it. Call ahead and order live lobsters to go at cost + 5 eurobucks.”
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The Week of May 18th, 2009
Tuesday in Le Fooding, Miss Sardine reviewed Le Gibolin, in Arles.
Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Philippe Toinard gave 1/5 dots to Chez Yolaine, 9, rue d’Argenteuil (the Pre Sale space) in the 1st, 01.42.96.40.02, closed Sundays, with lower prices (13,50 menu at lunch, a la carte 25 €) but spotty food – instead of seasonal products - pumpkin soup, boeuf bourguignon, duck breast and chocolate dessert in an ocean of cream; while Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Le Tourbillon, 45, rue Claude Bernard in the 5th, 01.47.07.86.32, with a lunch formula at 16, menu-carte at 24 or 27 €, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, coordinates given before, where he commented the ex-Rostang chef’s simple terrine of Challans duck, pork cheeks and white chocolate mousse.
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 3/4 hearts to the hotel restaurant - the Jardin d’Ampere, Hotel Ampere, 102, ave de Villiers in the 17th, 01.44.29.16.54, closed Sundays at dinner, costing 40-50 a la carte but with lunch menus at 24 and 28 €, serving asparagus and morue, veal with corn raviolis and kalamansi. Then he gave the photo and 2/4 hearts to 122, 122, rue de Grenelle in the 7th, 01.45.56.07.42, closed weekends, with a lunch formula at 16,50, menu-carte at 35 and 20 € aperoserving egg in seafood jelly, puree of cironated avocado and perfect lemon tart as well at to Makassar, Hotel Renaissance Empire Arc de Triomphe, 39 Ave de Wagram in the 17th, 01.55.37.55.37, open 7/7, with lunch menus at 28 and 34, a la carte 40-50 € for marinated shrimp, lamb with green papaya and moelleux of chocolate. One heart only went to Le 51 at the Cinematheque francaise, see last week, as well as Depur, 58, rue Montorgueil in the 2nd, 01.42.63.36.43, open 7/7 with Bobo-yoyo 20-40 € stuff such as club sandwiches, beef tartare and crème brulee.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Colette Monsat et al proposed 10 garden eating spots:
Le Tir aux Pigeons + Les Jardins de Bagatelle in the Bois de Boulogne
Rosa Bonheur + Da Vincenzo Cozzoli in the Buttes Chaumont
The Cafe Branly at the Quai Branly
Le Chalet des Iles Daumesnil in the Bois de Vincennes
La Baleine in the Jardin des Plantes
The Cafe Lenotre on the Champs-Elysees
Le Saut de Loup in the Tuileries
Un the au Jardin in the Musee de la Vie Romantique
Other spots : Apicius, Raimo + OKay Cafe
Le Grand Fooding next May 24th in the Parc de St Cloud
Another hidden resto - le Clandestino San Pellegrino
And Francois Simon’s pick in his “Hache Menu,” was the Restaurant de la Palais Royal, where he spent 129 € for a very agreeable soirée and says « Yep » about going.
Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the Breton Nominoe where he liked the food despite the limited menu, but not the seating.
Wednesday, in Le Monde, Jean-Claude Ribaut reviewed the Georgian restaurant De Da in the 1st.
Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about “Cyril, L'Orenoc Brunch, Hotel Raphael & Relais du Parc and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “When the Incredible Lightness of Being is Pure Vapor.”
Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
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The Week of May 11th, 2009
Tuesday in Le Fooding, Julie Gerbert reviewed Le 51, 51, rue de Bercy in the 12th, 01.58.51.10.91, open 10 AM – 11 PM (closed Tuesdays) for “snacks” such as gazpacho, Caesar salad, picnic baskets and 9 € pitchers of Gamay. Snack menus are 8,40-12,40 € and restaurant menus in the evening 16-23 €.
Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to Frenchie, coordinates given before, where he commented on the petit pois soup, quenelles of ricotta and pannacotta with red fruit.
Wednesday, in l'Express, Pierrick Jegu picked as his Parisian place for less than 30 E: Le Passage, 18, passage de la Bonne-Graine, in the 11th, 01-47-00-73-30, closed Saturdaty lunch and Sundays, costing about 30 E for asparagus salad, risotto with etrilles juice; the wine was good but the dessert less so. The remainder of the reviews were of restos in Nice and Cannes – coinciding with the Festival.
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave no hearts but the photo and blurb to the Costes new operation, the Café Germain, 25-27, rue de Buci in the 6th, 01 43 26 02 93, open 7/7, costing 35-45 € for crab, shrimp in bouillon, fish & chips and a banana split [sic] as well as 2/4 hearts to the Grand Mericourt, 22, rue de la Folie-Méricourt in the 11th, 01 43 38 94 04, open lunch from Tuesday to Friday and dinner Monday to Saturday, lunch menu = 17-20 , a la carte 45-60 € but only one heart to the Breton Cap Breton, 43, rue Le Peletier in the 9th, 01 40 16 16 07, closed weekends, lunch menu = 13, dinner 15-20 €, serving galettes and crepes, Le Templier, 25 bis, rue de l’Armorique in the 15th, 01.43.22.36.83, closed weekends and Mondays, Tuesday and Wednesday dinners, costing 25-30 € for herring, andouillette and duck breast and the Bistrot de l’Avenue, 16 ave de Villiers in the 17th, 01.47.63.25.61, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with formulas at 30, 32 and 35 € with items such as petit pois soup, macaroni with aged ham, and iced nougat.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Colette Monsat, Alexandra Michot and Sylvain Vérut discussed apero places, as follows :
Big children
Ferdi
Intimate terrace
Cafe Drouant
In a garden
Cafe Reale
Cocktail bar
Murano Urban Resort
Spanish
Les Voisins
Neo-caviste
Lavinia
Basque-like
Afaria
Bonbon
La Paiva
And also Le 15Cent15, Bellota-Bellota
Passed plates
Andy Warloo, Park Hyatt Vendome, l’Absinthe
Bars with hors-d’œuvres
L'Avant-Comptoir de Camdeborde
Francois Simon, in his “Hache Menu,” reviewed Thierry Burlot’s second place Zebra, where he spent 141 € for aperos plus.
Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the cocktail-ping pong-resto Derriere, which served good product, reasonably-priced wine and good dishes.
Friday, François-Régis Gaudry in l’Express, reviewed Le Park 45 in Cannes.
Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about L’Obé, Wa-Ri and Ducasse and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Why do some restaurants so shoot themselves in the foot?”
Sunday, Elaine Sciolino in the Travel Section of the NYT wrote an article on Roman France that mentioned the following restaurants in St Remy, Nimes (2) and Arles (2), Le Restaurant de la Reine Jeanne, Aux Plaisirs des Halles, Le Petit Bofinger, La Chassagnette + Le Galoubet.
Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
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Hummm; also as I went by Angl'Opera on the bus last week it looked like there was activity inside.How about the rumours (Figaroscope, Optimum) on Marx taking over the Renoma on George V? In their window it says reopening June 3rd (I think...) but no mention of a change of style.......... -
Long rumored, Alain Ducasse today was featured on the France 24, in a piece by Nina Biddle Luna about the opening of his newest (after that in the 8th a while back) cooking school - the Ecole de Cuisine in the 16th that will have shorter lines, demonstrate shopping, be relaxed, have ten different courses, cover various levels, run from half-a-day to a full day and cover world cuisine.
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The Week of May 4th, 2009
Sunday April 26th in a special section in the NYT Travel Section, Steven Erlanger suggested where to eat on $250 a day (Fauchon + Coude a Coude, 46, rue St. Honore in the 1st, 01.40.28.15.64) and on $1,000 a day (Les Carre des Feuillants + Le Bistrot Paul Bert).
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Frédérick-E. Grasser-Hermé reviewed the pizzeria Reginette, in the 8th.
Tuesday as well, ANP ‘s Philippe Toinard gave 2/5 dots to L’Atelier Mazarine, coordinates given before, where he was less than enchanted by the food.
Tuesday, on their website Le Figaro published an interview by Lucille Escourrou with Adeline Grattard of yam’Tcha.
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope gave 2/4 hearts to the Italian Mercato in the 2nd; one heart each to the pizzeria Le Reginette in the 8th and the Pates Vivantes Asian noodle offshoot, Paradis des Pates in the 9th and two busted hearts to the Middle-eastern Mangareva in St Cloud and Russian/Mediterranean Domic in the 7th.
In the Figaroscope’s Dossier, Colette Monsat wrote about lemon tartelettes; her ranking of the top ten was:
Carl Marletti
Jacques Genin
Pierre Herme
Secce
Carette
Bread & Roses
Angeline
Laduree
Paul
Laurent Duchene.
Francois Simon, in his “Hache Menu,” reviewed the tea salon/dessert place Jacques Genin,
Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the unsung Je Thé…me, 4, rue d’Alleray in the 15th, 01 48 42 48 30, where he had a perfect meal of duck foie gras, marinated anchovies on lentils, roast cod with bacon and its risotto, veal kidney and sweetbreads served with spring vegetables, a triple serving of superb cheeses and a tiramisu; all with wines.
Saturday, Francois Simon in the Figaro in his “Croque-notes” discussed l’Auberge de Condé in La Ferté-sous-Jouarre.
Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Les Paillottes, Cafe Branly & Le Reminet and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Well, a[nother] precedent is being broken - ethnic food.”
Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
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I think it's one of the most head-snappingly nice settings in Paris. Good products too but not necessarily as dazzling cooking.Do you have any thoughts on Le Dome du Marias (not as a place for seafood but in general)? -
Glad you liked the "new" Goumard; it's fun/elegant, whereas l'Ecailler is fun/funky. Another fine platter can be had at the big Dome but I also like the Bistro du Dome because it's open 7/7 but no platter there. The new La Maree + Rech are elegant as well. Cannot do badly most places except La Cagouille which I think has slipped except for finger-burning moules.John Talbott, I am primarily interested in a fruit de mer platter but would also like your pics for other fish since you mentioned it. -
A question first; do you just want to order a huge platter of shellfish and no grilled fish, etc. afterwards?After reading past posts I *think* I have decided on Goumard for my evening of fruit de mer. Is this a good choice? Are there other places I should consider? TIA. -
Jean Claude Ribault of Le Monde wrote about a new book by Valérie Expert & Véronique André entitled Je me ferais bien un... (Flammarion, 2009, 17 euros) that gives the 50 dishes preferred by Parisians and where to get them. A sample:
La Rotonde – steak tartare.
Bar du Warwick – club sandwiches.
Dessirier - bouille.
Michel Rostang - la volaille de Bresse à la crème, aux morilles et au vin jaune.
Jean-Jacques Jouteux – beef filet.
Paul Chêne – asparagus mousseline and fried merlan.
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Interesting piece on FR 2 20h00 Journal tonite about the new US-EU Beef accord that had a video clip showing the chef at Meating who likes Limousin beef, preparing (non-hormone) US beef which he serves due to its taste, albeit at double the price [if I heard correctly], which could change if the quadrupling of imports becomes a reality. No mention of Canadian beef, heretofor in the same boat.
Cooking Schools, Classes in Paris and France
in France: Cooking & Baking
Posted
David Allan in Sunday's NYT Travel Q&A gave some suggestions for cooking classes for children that included:
The Ritz Escoffier
Olivier Berte's
The Cordon Bleu.