John Talbott
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Posts posted by John Talbott
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Greetings-
As this is my first post, please visualize me standing just inside the door, nervously gazing at the linoleum as I ask this question: I'm taking my daughter to Paris for a long museum (her) and food (me) weekend on the 20th of this month. I've had several good meals at Flora Mikula's previous restaurant, Les Olivades. Do any of you know how her new place (Flora, near the George V hotel in the 8th A) is?
Also (don't know if I can do this on an academic's salary), I've heard good things about Helene Darroze's restaurant. Does anyone have first hand info?
Hm! I must have a thing about female chefs - I think Susan Spicer walks on water...
Merci beaucoup!
Bartow
Flora; very much yes, altho the lunch menu is no longer the bargain it was when she moved from Les Olivades.
Darroze; awful, hyped, a real bamboozle.
But there are lots of great places that are very reasonable for lunch (and I know academic salaries as well as TIAA/CREF payouts afterwards).
Places like Au Bon Acceuil, Ze Kitchen Galerie, La Cerisaie, Pre Verre, etc etc, but please check out our Forum's threads and you'll find much of interest.
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The Week of January 3rd, 2005
The new year started off with Francois Simon in Le Figaro in his “Croque Notes” bemoaning the incapability of 97-98% of French gastronomes to tell the difference between fresh products and frozen/preserved/powdered products and going on to suggest a book by someone who does know his stuff: Francois Audouzde who wrote “Carnets d’un collectionneur des vins anciens.” He does then suggest two restaurants that readers have touted him onto via his direct telephone number (01.42.21.61.59); one moderately new French one, La Poele d’Or, 37, rue de Miromesnil in the 8th, 01.42.65.78.60, closed for lunch except Tuesday and Wednesday and dinner Saturday and Sunday, a la carte = 80 Euros and an Italian place Dell’Orto, 45, rue St-Georges in the 9th. The remainder of the Gastronomie page was devoted to Galettes des Rois, listing all sorts of such, e.g. traditional, unusual, chocolate, brioche-type, etc; detailing the feves enclosed this year and interviewing Christophe Felder, ex of the Crillion, now making his galettes at the Boutique Bernardaud, 11 Rue Royale in the 8th.
And on Monday, the selfsame Simon, in Figaro Entreprises reviewed Le Soleil, 109, ave Michelet in St-Ouen (flea market area),01.40.10.08.08 (post the departure of Serge Barbey to La Table de Lauriston). While he gives the food a 3/5, the price/quality merits only a 1/5 and for once, one doesn’t need to read between the lines to see where he’s headed; dirty glasses, a padded bill and slow service, all forgiven because of good scallops and risotto of octopus. A la carte is 50 Euros, open every day for lunch but only Friday and Saturday nights.
Sebastien Demorand in Zurban reviewed L’Ecume St-Honore, 6 rue du Marche-Saint-Honore in the 1st, 01.42.61.93.87, a 6-year-old fish store which he several times reiterates is just that and not really a restaurant – however he raves about the “enooormous” scallops and “enooormous” oysters as well a fish ranging from bar to tuna, which one can eat at the bar or in a rear room; open 11AM-7 PM weekdays but 7AM-10 PM Fridays and Saturdays, formulas from 9.90 Euros and a la carte = 25-30 Euros. In his “Casseroles” section he reviews three others: Au Grain de Sel, 13, rue Jean-Beausire in the 4th, 01.44.59.82.82, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday nights and Mondays, formulas at lunch are 20-30 Euros and a la carte is about 35 Euros, where he says to go if you live nearby (the Bastille) and the frig is empty; l’Armandie, 2 bis, rue Petel in the 15th, a familial brasserie in a nice neighborhood (Metro = Vaugirard), open every day, formulas at lunch for 14.90-21 Euros, 20.80-21.80 Euros and a la carte about 40 Euros, whose only saving grace apparently are their Perle Blanche oysters; and the newest branch of Bon at 25, rue de la Pompe in the 16th, 01.40.72.70.00, another Philippe Starck-designed outpost, where the menu was 29 Euros, a la carte 50 Euros and where he felt dishes were pricey but not bad for what they gave you, but were a bit too sweetened up - except for the marinated beef.
Thursday-Friday Le Monde’s Jean-Claude Ribaut reviewed several places in his “Toques en Pointe;” the venerable old (1952) bistro Chez Germaine, 30, rue Pierre-Leroux in the 7th, 01.42.73.38.24, which sounds like the place to send friends who want all the classic dishes as they were in 1952, e.g. everything from herring with potatoes, through pot au feu to pear poached in wine, the lunch menu = 13 Euros, soup at night = 3 Euros (not a misprint), a la carte = 20 Euros, closed Saturday night and Sundays; the already very well-recognized brainchild of Antoine Westerman, Mon Vieil Ami, 60, rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile in the 4th, 01.40.46.01.35, with a menu-carte at 38 Euros and plat du jour at 15 Euros, closed Mondays and Tuesday lunch; and the 15 year-old Guy Savoy inspiration, now reviewed again apparently because its space has doubled and spaciousness increased, La Butte Chaillot, 110 bis, avenue Kleber in the 16th, 01.47.27.88.88, closed Saturday lunch, menu at 32 Euros, a la carte = 42 Euros.
Patricia Wells is in China, but Friday’s IHT contained an article by Elaine Sciolino about galettes de roi, in three parts; the announcement, previously reported in Le Parisien Tuesday, that Francois Vacavant of Pain & Passion won this year’s award for the best galette in Paris; a description or photo of the galettes sold at Dalloyau, Fauchon, Bon Marche, Laduree, + Lenotre; and a portion on feves and their collection. As of this posting, the article was not up on the IHT website but it is now on the New York Times’ one.
Figaro’s Saturday-Sunday edition was replete with food news. At the top of the Gastronomie page, available on the website only by paying for a subscription, Alexandra Michot provided her periodic recounting of changes in the restaurant world. She noted the places with new chefs: Gael Orieux, ex-second at Le Meurice will start January 17th at Auguste, 54, rue de Bourgogne in the 7th , Didier Elena, ex-Alain Ducasse at the Essex House in NYC will take over at Les Crayeres in Reims, David Tissot, best worker of 2004 takes over at the Terrasses de Lyon in that city, the celebrity duo Bouquet/Depardieu open a second place L’Ecaille de la Fontaine at 15 rue Gaillon in the 2nd, Vincent Maillard returns from the Savoy-Ducasse world to l’Hostellerie de Levernois near Beaune and ex-Crillon chef Dominique Bouchet heads up his own place at 11, rue Treilhard in the 8th; then notes the places with new décor: Restaurant Regis Marcon in St-Bonnet-le-Froid and Taillevent in the 8th; after recounting that Alain Ducasse has announced the names of the six new young chefs who will cook for two weeks each at the Relais Plaza and then says that three places have new brunches: literary brunches at the Hyatt Madeleine in the 8th , a “detox brunch” at the Blue Elephant in the 11th, and a “world brunch” at the [Crillon in the 8th; that Krug will affiliate with the Park Hyatt Vendome in sponsoring 250 Euro market meals with champagne; and finally in a section titled “Rumors,” that Philippe Groult will leave Amphyclesfor a place unspecified in the provinces, that Marc Veyrat in addition to setting up his Paris “laboratory” dreams of setting up a resto here, that a new chef will be replacing Pierre Dominique Cecillon, taking his well-merited retreat from the Prince of Galles, and that we await the return of Phillipe Conticini and Yves Camdeborde.
Then, Jean Miot in “Propos de Table,” semi-reviews two places: first he writes that the well-known Les Trois Marches, 1, bd de la Reine in Versailles, 01.39.50.13.21, closed Sundays and Mondays with menus at 58 € (lunch), 160 and 180 €, a la carte = 150 € is still notable because they change preparations like Bach wrote the Goldberg variations and L'Auberge de Thenay, 23, rue René-d'Hellingue in Thenay, 02.54.47.99.00, closed Sunday dinners and Mondays, menus = 19-24 and 50 €, a la carte = 25 €, where Pascal and Marie-Jeanne Orain, returning from 22 years in the UK via Bertie’s in Paris, to set up a “country inn.”
Not sure what wine goes well with a galette des rois? Laure Gasparotto suggests either wines from the Jura or a Tokay. The article gives specific names and prices.
Finally, in his “Croque Notes” Francois Simon mentions a resto near Aix, les Sarments in Puyloubier, where the full menu is 28 € or 22 € for a main and a dessert. It’s run by Jean-Sebastien Gentil who passed through several fine kitchens and Simon gives a long list of dishes that he offers that sound interesting, excepting the desserts, which he describes as “banal” – see the details in the article. Finally, he vents his spleen at the Café de la Paix in Paris where he felt he was poorly seated and treated.
January’s Where had no real food article, but did highlight the renovation of the well-established Stella Maris which the anonymous writer says deserves a macaroon. It also listed several well-known “Warm and Cosy Restaurants:” A la Pomponette, A La Tour Montihery aka Chez Denise, Au Bon-Pourcain, Au Trou Gascon, Aux Lyonnais, L’Alsaco, L’Ambassade d’Auverge, L’Ami Jean, Chez Paul, Lescure, Le Petit Marguery, La Poule au Pot, Le Repaire de Cartouche, Le Roi du Pot-au-Feu, La Truffiere.
Adrian Leeds of ParlerParis suggests that Paris’s “biggest restaurant bargain” is the several years old Le Domaine de Lintillac, 10, rue Saint Augustin in the 2nd, 01.40.20.96.27 where you can start with a Kir, have three courses of fine Périgourdine cuisine (foie gras, confit de canard, etc.), their best wine and coffee for about 20 Euros. {For first-timers, be aware that it’s heavy in meats, thus some women find its fare very “Zone unfriendly.”}
Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.
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Today, in his “Croque Notes” Francois Simon mentions a resto near Aix, les Sarments in Puyloubier, where the full menu is 28 € or 22 € for a main and a dessert - it stresses the point that this is not grand pretentious food but friendly stuff. It’s run by Jean-Sebastien Gentil who passed through several fine kitchens and Simon gives a long list of dishes that he offers that sound interesting, excepting the desserts, which he describes as “banal” – see the details in the article. I've been there many years ago - it was a nice place.
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I live in Paris, and my fromager told me they're no longer going to carry the French Mont d'Or, since the quality was getting bad (true: each one I've had in years past was tough and never ripened). The Swiss are much better at it they told me.
David Lebovitz
Interesting. As I said before we had a Mont D'Or (French) from Alleose New Year's but a Vacherin Mont D'Or (Swiss) last night from La Fromagerie de Montmartre, #9 Rue du POTEAU, now called Quatrehomme, and it was leagues better than the French.
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Has anyone tried La Braisière in the 17th, at 54,rue Cardinet (01 47 63 04 76)? A friend who ate there recently has raved about it, the dinner menu is apparently €50, and it has one Michelin star. Don't know about the romance of the setting though.
Yup; I ate there just after the NYT wrote it up and thot it was nul. Again - the NYT (? author) loved it. Go figure!
Did I say before that I was also disappointed at Pamphlet?
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John, in the year-end digest you mention "La Table de Lucullus ’s fate post-Nicolas Vagnon’s departure from the 17th." What's that about? Do you know why he's leaving and where he's going?
I was surprised myself to read it. I have no idea; the comment was very brief and I have not been by it to see if there's anything in the window.
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John is Vacherin still available this week? I haven't ever had it believe it or not!
I bought my "Mont D'Or," Les Monts de Joux, 25560 Bannans at Alleose on Thursday December 30th and there were at least 20 more there.
Vacherin Mont d'Or is made from pasteurised milk from the Swiss side of the Jura Mountains.Mont d'Or is made from raw milk from the French side of the same mountain range.
Both are winter cheeses; the summer milk from the same cows (not as rich) is used to make gruyere.
As for the difference between the two, my ancien fromager, now retired, used to use the terms for French Mont D'Or and Vacherin Mont d'Or interchangably; purists might say he was misinformed, inexact or too old, but he was my source for years.
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The FDA do seem unneccesarily strict.
The rallying cry of 'Safety First!' does not inspire the enjoyment of the best food has to offer.
I cannot recall the thread - but we've had this discussion before. The rule about cheese(s) is unevenly applied in American airports and clearly in need of a relook. Unfortunately, as another "mad scientist," I'm aware that the FDA has bigger fish to fry these days than cheese/listeria.
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Good memories of Claude Peyrot at Vivarois.
Pacaud was chef de cuisine at one point?
Claude Peyrot was indeed and a wonderful place it was. But he closed it several years ago.
For me, though, the image I recall is the Chirac's escorting the Clintons into l'Ambrosie from the Place des Voges.
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I usually order some cheese from France about this time of year - and I always order a Vacherin Mont D'Or. Robyn
This probably goes in the or unnecessary/unfair/roughness file, but we had a Vacherin Mont d'Or from Alleose yesterday and today and it was splendid. Shame on the FDA.
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Never mind I see Phamplett on the precious post....Thank you.
raisab; because you're a dear friend I'll confide in you; I had a very disappointing meal there (Pamphlet), just not what it was cracked up to be. And with all due respect, I didn't find it romantic at all.
Have I/we mentioned Bon Accueil, not the Meurice but pretty romantic and reasonable.
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I thought it might be fun, in this week of “Best of’s….” to start a discussion of the Best New Restaurants in Paris in 2004. To get the ball rolling, here’s my list (rank-ordered) of places that opened this year:
La Cerisaie
Le Regalade, post-Camdeborde
Temps au Temps
Vieux Chene
Le Petrelle
L’Abadache
L’Ecallier
Fables of Fontaine
Pinxo
Mon Vieil Ami
Les Papilles
La Table de Lauriston
I have not been to the new Hiramatsu, Le Meurice, La Table de Lancaster or Les Ambassadeurs under Piegé, but my best friends here who have, would rate them:
Le Meurice
La Table de Lancaster
I would implore those members reading this who know the scene much better than I to post their “Best Of 2004” lists too - you know who you are, don’t be bashful – Zouave, Felice, raisab, Pierre45, fresh_a, Carlsbad, paga, pim, pan, John Whiting, Bux, Robert Brown, Jonathan Day, Gabrielle Claudine, etc., etc., etc. (Apologies to those I left out – I had one too many calva’s today).
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The Week of December 27th, 2004
Last Wednesday, Figaroscope published its year end tear-out “Best Of” review of
restaurants which are only available as an insert and are not online. This is not its traditional listing with marks from 0-10 but rather a series of brief descriptions that include the following restaurants:
Les Ambassadeurs
Le Murano
Caffe Minotti
Mon Vieil Ami
La Table de Robuchon
L’Atelier des Chefs
Hiramatsu
Drugstore Publicis
Chiberta
L’Ami Marcel
Dans le Noir
L’Ourcine
La Table du Lancaster
Le Regalade
Le Roland-Garros
Les Papilles
La Table Lauriston
Le Temps au Temps
Les Vivres
Angl’Opera
Cafe Guitry
Pavillon des Princes
In addition, Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” reviews Apicius post-Vigato. His amuse-bouche was too hot, his jellied diced crustaceans were impeccable (35 Euros) but he faults the fish and likes the chocolate souffle. The bill for two was 224.00 Euros and in answer to his habitual question “Should you go,” says “Yes, if it pleases you.”
Another article tucked into this supplement discusses future restaurant openings:
ex-Les Ambassadeurs’ Dominique Bouchet’s new place at 11 de la rue Treilhard in the 8th
La Famille’s new cantine in the 18th
Le Safran’s Caroll Sinclair’s new bio-bistrot annex in the 1st
ex-Le Regalade’s Yves Cambdeborde’s planned place
Krug Room established by the champagne maker
l’Hotel Sezz in the 16th, l’Hotel Griffe in the 3rd and Fouquet’s Hotel in the 8th, currently without a full restaurant
La Table de Lucullus’s fate post-Nicolas Vagnon’s departure from the 17th
Apicius’s future post-Vigato’s exit
Totem, Bermuda Onion (15th) + Beauvillier’s similar situation
a new Hotel Costes in the 16th
Marc Veyrat’s actual new address in Paris
And finally, wine news,
Wine-bars in which to enjoy wines off the shelf at a good price:
Verre Vole
Lavinia
Cave de l’Os a Moelle
La Muse Vin
Chapeau Melon
Places in which to try “natural” wines:
Verre Vole
Chapeau Melon
Caves Miard
La Muse Vin
Autour d’un Verre
Places in which to drink less wine of better quality by the glass:
Atelier de Robuchon
Table de Robuchon
Chai 33
Places offering “doggy-bags” for your unconsumed bottle:
Les Papilles
Chez Clement
Brasseries Flo
Tuesday, Liberation published another list of places to celebrate New Year’s Eve. Since the restaurants are well known and listed in the guidebooks, I will list most of them by name and price:
Carré des Feuillants menu at 260 € without wine
César Ritz Place Vendôme menu 590 € with wine
Hôtel Crillon Les Ambassadeurs menu 670 €
Castel menu 220 €
Cabaret menu & entrée to the club 180 €
Vip Room menu and club 150 €
La Mezzanine de l'Alcazar dinner 175 €
Le Piccolo Teatro, 6, rue des Ecouffes in the 4th, 01.56.23.19.21, vegetarian dinner at 7 PM = 38 €
Le Cinq at the Hôtel George V, menu = 650 € without wine
Also, just in time for New Year’s eve, Sebastien Demorand has devoted his major space in Zurban to places to go that won’t break the bank as might the Bristol’s 560€ menu without drinks. Demorand does a lot of phoning around and comes up with these three ideas:
Le Baratin, 3, rue Jouye-Rouve in the 20th, 01.43.49.39.70
Chez Jean, 8, rue Saint-Lazare in the 9th, 01.48.78.62.73 for 70€ without wine
Les Ambassadeurs, 10, place de la Concorde in the 8th, 01.44.71.15.15.00 for 670€ for dinner but only 70€ for lunch (as he says in the subtitle, the reveillons are ten times more expensive than lunches).
In his “Casseroles” he features a Japanese place, Momotaro in the 1st, an Italian one Da Gigi la Romana in the 14th and one French place, the “trendy, arty and ‘Bobo’” Les Lucioles, 102, boulevard Menilmontant in the 20th, 01.40.33.10.24, Metro Menilmontant and/or Pere Lachaise whose menu is 11.50€ and a la carte runs about 25€, serving fare such as an entrecote with sautéed potatoes.
Thursday-Friday, Le Monde’s Jean-Claude Ribaud’s ”Toques en Pointes” covered three places: Pearl, 53 bis, bd Arago in the 13th, which used to be Les Marrionniers, 01.47.07.58.57, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday dinner, under new owners and a new chef with an eclectic palette (French/Italian/Moroccan/Viet Namese), the pleasureable menu is 35 € and a great lunch menu costs 17 €, plus wines are reasonable, Mavrommatis, 42, rue Daubenton in the 5th, 01. 43.31.17.17, closed Mondays, whose owners are described as the best defenders of Greek cuisine in Paris, and the Chateau de Candie in Chambery-le-Vieux.
The December-January GaultMillau gave two toques to Hiramatsu, 52, rue de Longchamp in the 16th 01.56.81.08.80; one toque each to La Terrasse Mirabeau, 5, place de Barcelone in the 16th, 01.42.24.41.51, La Table de Tournet in Saint Maur (94th) and Villa Marinette in Gazeran (78th); and no toques each to La Breteche in La Varenne-St-Hilaire (94th), l’Auberge de Beauregard in St-Jean de Beauregard (91st) and Le Troubadour in Fontainebleau (77th). They also announced their Chef of the Year was Pascal Barbot at l’Astrance. Finally, in an article called “Paris Magique” they give their favorite places in several categories:
Mythical restaurants: la Tour d’Argent, Lasserre, Le Grand Vefour, Taillevent, Lucas-Carton, Maxims;
Cult places: La Coupole, La Closerie des Lilas, Le Pied de Cochon, Brasserie Lipp, Julien;
Best views: Kong, Le Jules Verne, Maison Blanche, Le Ciel de Paris, Le Georges; and places to go before plays: Le Rubis, Le Moi, Tante Louise, La Petite Auberge, Beurre Noisette, L’Ami Marcel, Paparazzi, Le Grand Café, Café Guitry, La Piece de Boeuf, Au Boeuf Couronne, Chez Vincent, I Galossi, Aux Lyonnais + Angl’Opera.
The November-December Paris, the free publication distributed byM. Delanoye to mailboxes, disclosed that the best baguette competition was won by Pierre Thilloux, 23, from “La Fournee d’Augustine,” 96, rue Raymond-Losserand in the 14th.
Margaret Kemp of Bonjour Paris wrote about the Point Bar, 40, Place du Marche Saint-Honore in the 1st, 01.42.61.76.28 Metro Pyramides calling it a jewel-box that serves “light modern dishes” for 2O Euros.
Following up last week’s mention of the Depardieu/Bouquet resto La Fontaine Gaillon, Place Gaillon in the 2nd, Metro Opera, 01.47.42.63.22, this week’s Gastronomie.com says they’ve opened a second one L'Ecaille de la Fontaine at the same address.
Rosa Jackson, writing in the Star tells of “Fast Food, French Style” – a category that stretches to include Delicabar, Starbucks, Lafayette Maison, Be (Boulangepicier), Publicisdrugstore, Cosi, Frascati, Pasta Linea, Bar a Soupes, Hedonie, Higuma, Lao Lao Ken, Cafe des Delices, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon + Pinxo but not La Licorne.
Elizabeth Mahoney in The Herald discusses many of the “snackbars” mentioned in the paragraph above and also has another take on Dans le Noir, 51 rue Quincampoix in the 4th, 01.42.77.98.04 where she had the not so terrific 35 Euro “Surprise menu.”
I’ve chosen to put this list of recommended books at the end, because while appearing in the Figaroscope mentioned above, some readers may be experiencing reading fatigue at this point. In any case, the books that might interest members (in French and available from Amazon.com through our eGullet link or Amazon.fr or your friendly local libraire) are:
“Merveilles, Delicieuses Recettes au Pays d’Alice {in Wonderland}” Ferber, Model & Winkelmann,
“Cru” P and L Mikanowski,
“Par Monts at Par Vignes” Gentilhomme,
“100% Epices” Choukroun {Café des Delices},
“Brasseries de Paris” Vlamos,
“Le Meilleur du Chocolat” Villemur,
“Grand Livre de Cuisine d’Alain Ducasse, Mediterranee,”
“les Recettes de Babette” {Creole cooking}de Rozieres,
“Cru” Trotter,
“Bordeaux Grands Crus Classes,”
“Tout Sushi” K and C Masui,
“Quotidiens Gourmands, Solo & Co.” Martin {Grand Vefour},
“Vins de Fete” Leygnier & Barbieri,
“Les Petites Toques Salees de Lenotre,”
“Cuisine et Peinture au Louvre”Pinard & Quoniam,
“Cocktails Classiques, Cocktails Branches” Gage,
“Thierry Breton, de Terre et Mer” {Chez Michel}.
That’s about it for 2004; Happy New Year! See you soon in 2005.
Please post comments here and not in the digest thread.
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Tuesday, Liberation published yet another list of places to celebrate New Year’s Eve. Since the restaurants are well known and listed in the guidebooks, I will list most of them by name and price:
Carré des Feuillants menu at 260 € without wine
César Ritz Place Vendôme menu 590 € with wine
Hôtel Crillon Les Ambassadeurs menu 670 €
Castel menu 220 €
Cabaret menu & entrée to the club 180 €
Vip Room menu and club 150 €
La Mezzanine de l'Alcazar dinner 175 €
Le Piccolo Teatro, 6, rue des Ecouffes in the 4th, 01.56.23.19.21, vegetarian dinner at 7 PM = 38 €
Le Cinq at the Hôtel George V, menu = 650 € without wine
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How about La Fanille, has anyone tried that lately?
John I can appreciate your budget conciousness this year, the euro is just way too strong. It must be hurting Europe also as I know I don't buy anything that is not food or wine related in France or elsewhere in Europe anymore
By the way John did you have a meal at Le Troquet a couple of months back? I could of sworn I saw you there...or maybe it was just someone who resembled you.
Thank you for your replies and if anyone has any ideas, maybe an inexpensive 30-50 euros prix fixe (romantic please), please let me know.
I ate 3 times at La Famille, the last time a few months ago. It went from interesting, to way out to way way out (eg almost raw fish, somewhat bizarre combinations, etc). I have put it in the Angl'Opera category; interesting for fellow chefs and once a year Americans wanting to know how far the envelope can be pushed.
And yes, I've been back to Le Troquet this year and was pleased it still holds up. I've always liked it. It may well have been me; next time just come over and say hello, ignore my seeming to be buried in Figaro.
As for a romantic place at reasonable prices, would Bon Accueil or Maison de Jardin meet that standard?
Happy 31st.
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Astrance....Le Meurice Or any other suggestions? John (Resto Roi)? Bux? Pim?
I'm the wrong guy to ask; while I had one good meal at l'Astrance (alone) just after it opened and liked it, when I went back a couple of weeks later with Colette and 2 friends we all thought it failed miserably. But, hey, Bux and everyone else in the world loves it and GaultMillau in its Dec-Jan issue named Barbot the Chef of the Year. As for the Meurice, the same 2 friends who didn't like l'Astrance, loved it, I have not been, since 2004 has been my year of the pinched penny. Also, I'm having trouble appreciating the difference between a 50, 100 and 200 Euro meal - and this even when someone else is paying - isn't that sad? Maybe it's plastic bag time.
Ex-Resto roi John.
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Just in the nick of time, Sebastien Demorand in today's Zurban has listed places to go that won’t break the bank as the Bristol’s 560€ menu without drinks, might. Demorand does a lot of phoning around and comes up with these three ideas:
Le Baratin, 3, rue Jouye-Rouve in the 20th, 01.43.49.39.70
Chez Jean, 8, rue Saint-Lazare in the 9th, 01.48.78.62.73 for 70€ without wine
Les Ambassadeurs, 10, place de la Concorde in the 8th, 01.44.71.15.15.00 for 670€ for dinner but only 70€ for lunch (as he says in the subtitle, the reveillons are ten times more expensive than lunches).
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I think that this is the definitive word on this. It makes perfect sense. So thank you.
I know you want to put an end to this thread but I just googled omelette soufflée au rhum and got an incredible number of recipes and a pix that might be familiar to your father. 1956 must have been a nice time in Sai Gon, long enough after Dien Bien Phu and long enough before we came; my eggs in 1968 never looked as good as these.
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Update December 14th, New York Times, (in fact, probably secondary to the French papers such as Liberation's reportage entitled "Game Tied"), M. Remy lost a lawsuit of illegal dismissal by Michelin and owes the Big B 1,000 Euros. He's appealing. To be continued.
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The Week of December 20th, 2004
Last week, December 11th, in Le Figaro’s “Propos de Table,” Jean Miot wrote up the Lillois restaurant Le Bistrot de Pierrot and the Parisian one L’Ami Jean, 27 rue Malar in the 7th, 01.47.05.86.89, closed Sundays and Mondays, menu at 28 €, a la carte = 35 €; not a new restaurant by any means, but a glowing tribute to this ancient second of Yves Camdebord’s, serving Southwestern fare such as confited duck, goose breast, chicken eggs Basque style and sow’s ham as well as pushing the menu farther towards Spain. He also has an all game menu at 48 €.
On December 17th, in Le Figaro Alexandra Michot interviewed George Blanc of the famous Vonnas restaurant, subtitling it “First, start with good products.”
December 18th the Financial Times’s Weekend Edition had an Article about Jean-Luc Naret's taking over the Michelin empire. He’s quoted as saying "That's what's interesting, the authentic, individual place, where the chef puts all his passion into the food he cooks. We'll continue to pay special attention to new talents and if the food is of exceptional quality, we have no problem giving a star to a restaurant where the chef himself brings the food at the table."
Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban devoted his major review to a Thai place Mum Sabai in the 6th and one of his three pots in ‘Casseroles” to L’Enoteca an Italian wine bar in the 4th, but also covered two well-known French places: the crusty old Au Roi du Pot-au-Feu, 34 rue Vignon in the 9th, 01.47.42.37.10, Metro Havre-Caumartin or Madeleine, closed Sundays, a la carte = 20€, serving “pitiful” meat and the slightly less old Terrasse Mirabeau, 5, place de Barcelone in the 16th, 01.42.24.41.51, Metro Mirabeau, closed Saturday lunches and Sundays, menu-carte = 36€ with a formula at 28€ serving delicious sounding game, scallops, bass, leeks vinaigrette and French toast with caramelized quince.
Wednesday, in Le Figaro Alexandra Michot wrote about places to reserve on New Year’s Eve from Lille to Monaco (for outside Paris see here) for the whole family or overlooking the Seine, including:
le Café du Commerce, 51, rue de Commerce, in the 15th, 01.45.75.88.03 for 175 € a person with wine
l’Auberge de Cendrillion in Disneyland Paris, 01.60.45.60.45 for 110 € for parents and 30 € for kids
Toupary at la Samaritaine, 2 quai du Louvre in the 1st, 01.40.41.29.77 – no prices given
le Ciel de Paris, 56th floor of the Eiffel Tower, 01.40.64.77.64 for 285 € with champagne
Friday, Christmas Eve, Adrian Leeds of Parler Paris fame ate a “sumptuous dinner” at the restaurant in which Gerard Depardieu and his partner Carole have invested money and ideas: La Fontaine Gaillon, Place Gaillon in the 2nd, Metro Opera, 01.47.42.63.22.
In an article in Sunday’s Travel section of the New York Times in an article entitled “Looking for Elusive Powder in the French Alps,” Christopher Solomon gives several places to eat in the Serre Chevalier region. They are: Le Montagn'art, Place de l'Église in Le Monêtier-les-Bains, 04.92.24.43.74, Le Caribou, 11, rue St.-Eldrade, also in Le Monêtier-les-Bains, 04.92.24.55.84 and Auberge de la Paix, 3, rue Porte Méane, in Briancon, 04.92.21.37.43
The Fall issue of Gastronomica featured two articles and two book reviews of interest; all related to culinary and cook books; “M.F.K. Fisher in France: The First Insouciant Spell (1929-1932),” which is about Fisher’s first stay in France, by Joan Reardon, whose first full book devoted to Fisher will be available any day and; “Desperately Seeking Edouard: A Passion for de Pomiane” by Margaret McArthur, about the famed Polish gastroenterologist turned French “cookery writer,” only two of whose books (“French Cooking in Ten Minutes: or Adapting to the Rhythm of Modern Life” and “Cooking with Pomiane”) are now available in English; “When Champagne Became French: Wine and the Making of a National Identity,” by Kolleen Guy, reviewed by Amy Trubeck and “La France Gourmande: A Food Lover’s Guide to French Fairs and Festivals,” by Marolyn Charpentier, reviewed by Beth Marie Forrest.
Please post comments here and not in the digest thread.
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For those in Paris, Le Figaro December 17th had an article by Alexandra Michot on top buche places from La Maison du Chocolat to Hediard.
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Pinxo, as much as I've been a fan of Dutournier at Carré des Feuillants, was a bit of a disappointment for us. L'Atelier de JR, on the other hand offered dish after dish that was right on the mark, albeit it at a higher price.
I realize it's too late to catch you but for the record, I must respectfully disagree with Bux. Pinxo has a charming friendly staff and a wonderful array of mezzes whereas sitting side-by-side at that horrid bar at L'Atelier after negotiating the unwelcoming no outside doorknob entrance is so offputting and the food while in small portions, is so pricey, it's not worth it.
Finally, going to a great seafood restaurant, like Le Dome, and ordering a bunch of oysters or a plateau fruits de mer, could be a great way to finish what should be a pretty delicious day.I'd even go farther and suggest the Bistrot du Dome around the corner, where you can eat light by simply ordering a couple of starters such as oysters, tartare of salmon or coques.
Les Papilles might be a good choice for a light meal.Also a good idea as are many of the other wine bars mentioned in the wine bar thread.
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I realize it's a bit of a pain to give the address and phone number each time a place is mentioned, but sometimes I won't bother to copy the information to my ongoing list until the resto has been mentioned a couple of times, and I've found myself scrolling back and forth trying to find the original citation. I would love to have the coordinates repeated if possible.
Fair enough. Will do.
Best Paris Brasserie MERGED TOPIC
in France: Dining
Posted
The Brasserie Lorraine aka La Lorraine, 2-4 place des Ternes, 01.56.21.22.00 is back full force. A good while ago, the Freres Blanc took it over (and a good thing too; it was in serious decline) but our first couple of meals were a bit shaky, however, more recently they’ve totally renovated the kitchen, furniture, decor, etc. and it’s back to the status quo ante; e.g. good oysters, bulots, scallops and fish soup that is tasty and a volonte; bill 153 Euros for four.