John Talbott

This may be a nit no one can pick, but is "mi-cuit" foie gras in or out? And if anyone does know the answer to TarteTatin's query - - I think we'd all be grateful. For the food-obsessed, this discussion is most helpful. There is much lore and misinformation out there.

Well, after two days' eating in the 8th I can state with certainty that for guys who work and go to lunch and wear ties - drinking water is OK.

Raisa, thanks for your precision (as the newsfolk say). I think it would be helpful given your metier and expertise, if you expanded on your post, esp about cheese (raw, pasteurized, aged, etc) - we all approach those "cute beagles" of Menton1's with fear and hope remembering the sights of fine seniors from Mediterranean countries giving up their cherished gifts to be. Thanks.

This is really not OT because food does get talked about on the news, but one can now get Telematin, the 13h00 and 20h00 news on France 2; the 20h00 journal on TV 1 and the Guignols on Canal + at approximately the same time, all via your friendly computer. So it's more than 30 minutes.

Ah Steve, you and your friends are still young. My age-friends, especially if driving home to say Versailles, do make use of the toilet. Not my experience, if I persist in French 9/10th's will accomodate; it is truly the eager-beaver who does want to practice who continues. as well as (Vacherin) Mont d'Or, Parmesan (when used as a cooking vessel) and a few other regional specialties. What has not been raised yet is the unwritten rule/custom to drink bottled water in gastro places, esp those with macarons vs Chateau Delanoye in neighborhood bistrots. Yesterday I ate at the two-week old Cou de la Giraffe aka Coutanceau #6; it has its eye on a star and should get it in 2007; super decor, nice flowers, all suits and ties (it's in the 8th after all), 80% bottled/20% tap water but in great designer carafes; my prediction is that when it hits the star level, it'll be 100% bottled. On another thread a native noted that serving water is required by law. One would think so, but maybe if you've learned French in school/college rather than through "French in Action," you don't get that lesson.

Oh gosh no. I'm tardy in beginning my "Best Of" list but if you'll be patient, we've got a lotta winners - eg the Table Lauriston, Temps au Temps, Dominique Bouchet, Cinq Mars, Pibale Club 308, Caves Miard, l'Instant Gourmand, Goupil le Bistrot, Louis Vins, l'Ecallier du Bistrot, Casaluna, Thierry Burlot + Table de JR's new menus, the reborn Gaya + Senderens, Guifeli, Cave est Restaurant, Jour a Peyrassol, Maxan, Carte Blanche, Chez Les Anges + Cou de la Girafe to name just a few of the latest and we've got 3 more weeks.

I won't repeat what I said on the other gift thread but these vom Fass liquids and bottles at GL are equally approprite for gifts to return to the US with. Edited by John Talbott to give correct cross-reference to other thread.

I had mentioned elsewhere that there was a new boutique (Vom Fass) at Galeries Lafayette selling "over 100" sorts of liquids in some 70 types of wonderfully shaped bottles. Actually there are two; one at the Northwest corner of the store where the escalator goes up to the food hall, the other in the basement of what was Marks & Spenser. They have dozens of "barrels" of liqueurs, bitters, spirits, grappas, brandies, whiskies, cocktails, wines, extra virgin olive oil, vinegars and plant and fruit oils. You choose the bottle, they pour it in AND write the name of the product and a greeting to the person you intend to give it to. For those whose French is a bit rusty, one serveuse is British.

Au contraire, I think this is on topic. While we are a US site, we're interested in views from other places. Vive la difference!

I have been treated rudely twice in 30 years; once by the Italian manager of a pretentious oil-vinegar shop, the other time by an Eastern European salesperson in a specialty food shop. As we have discussed on this thread before, the seemingly brusque, hurry-hurry, rush-rush of cafe and/or brasserie garcons is part of the "show" and their efficiency - not to be confused with rudeness.

Them's Fightin' words, degusto. Care to elaborate? I'm sure Eric Frechon would not take these charges sitting down. ← OK all, just recall that we operate under the "Marquis of Queensberry rules"

Great response Culinista. This could turn into a very interesting discussion, for instance: In the last 5 years in France I have never not been asked "Did that please You?' ""How was it?" This is your table - truly! Oh well, BT Barnum had a point. Mais oui or yes but - nothing is so largely placed in front of you that you cannot manage it. Ah hah, except for the lefties (les gauchiers - not the Commies mind you) Mussels, oysters, crabs, shrimps? Not anymore. The times they are a changing. More and more the PDG (CEO) or responsable or (horrors) Anglo boss is feminine; and the men listen to her attentively. Nice eh?

A recent thread discussed an issue that I guess/think may hit on one of the many cultural differences between La France and another (our) republic - I posited that this may have constituted a "cultural difference" at its origin - their and our formation, tradition and written or unwritten rules. I suspect there are many more; for example, - clients greeting the whole staff and/or the entire room in the provinces, - servers telling us their names and professions, - closing and placing the menus down as a signal that one is ready to order, - finishing all one's food, - wiping the plate clean with bread (a class issue I'm told), - not clinking glasses (a class and age issue I'm told) - not ordering a salad in a gastro place, or two starters and no main, - not changing the order/menu (a la Jack Nicholson), - not clearing the plates until everyone is finished, - always commenting on the food, - putting one's instruments of eating destruction in a 1-2 o'clock position as a signal that one has terminated (the meal not the life), and - shaking hands and saying goodbye and 'til next time." But there must be a million more. Yes No?

Hi, sorry to be so tardy, but at 9 PM JP Coffe et al save more restos on M6 for three weeks. Enjoy!

There was a thread on this a bit back; I cannot find it but I do recall Maple syrup and guacamole & chip dishes, one of which I actually then gave as a wedding present that was much appreciated.

According to my trusty Almanach du Gastronomie by Armelle de Scitivaux (Bottin Goumand, 1998, 133 FF), the following are in full season in March (underlined items are biggies) – oysters, bar, turbot, cod.sole, lotte, merlan and lieu; baby goat, lamb and veal; eggs; bleu de Gex, fourme de Montbrison, Abondance, Comte, Laguiole, Salers, Cantal, Ossau-Iraty, Epoisses, Maroilles, Langres, Munster-Gerome; spinach, sorrel, broad beans; kiwi fruit, pomelo and pineapple. And while I don’t want to steal Felice’s thunder, in Paris alone there will be the Salon International de l’Agriculture (see prior threads) and elsewhere nine other fairs celebrating ham, cheese, wine, endives, chocolate, sausage and andouille.

Thus achieving the summum bonum of PtiPois' lesson, being able to combine pots de creme and pots a creme in the same sentence.

I too am sorry you had a bad experience; not to beat a very dead horse again, but I do think that when folks such as Frechon + Catherine move from places with three staff members and 20-28 covers to big establishments, something is lost. I don't want to attribute everything to the cultural differences in the classic training of French wait-staff and their self-perception as professionals versus the "My name is Bruce, normally I'm an actor and this is my first day so I don't know everything" attitude of American staff. There is undoubtedly a "way of doing things," some of which, such as greeting you warmly even if they don't know you, sweeping the table after the cheese dish and taking the water and wine requests at the same time - are part of the ritual and usually pleasant. Americans, not wanting to spring for four glasses of champagne as an apertif when a full bottle at 25% the price would make much more sense or wanting some water or even (horrors) a bottle of, not glasses of, wine before ordering (yes, yes I know the rationale behind the practice), while they wait for the rest of their party to show up, or ordering two entrees (firsts) instead of a first and main - find the conventions rigid and silly if not stupid. We should probably start a new thread on these sorts of cultural culinary differences, given our binational and bicoastal composition. It could generate some lively historical and sociological discussions. In any case, my solution to these issues is simple - I play the American naif, struggling to speak French but knowlegeable of the conventions (play to type I say); thus while awaiting a French couple who always have a great excuse for being late, I simply say "I know this is a bit bizarre, but I'd like to......." You have established that: (1) you're different from them, (2) you're struggling to learn but (3) you have confidence in their flexibility dealing with strange requests. By the way I've used the same technique with rigid American conference organizers - e.g., "this is a really strange request and I know your place doesn't normally do it but I have great confidence in you and am sure you alone can do it."

The Week of November 28th, 2005 In Figaro’s Madame Magazine, there was an article on four reasons to go to the Salon Saveurs Dec 2-5 (featuring everything from truffles to fish to chocolate to booze with an emphasis on Italian cuisine) – more info can be found on Felice’s What’s Happening thread. There are also several recipes etc. on using spices in Christmas food, written by Michele Carles. Monday, A Nous Paris (courtesy of Felice) gave the now familiar history of Apollonia Poilane’s assumption in 2002 of the famed bakery at age 18 after her parents’ death in a helicopter crash and her running it from Boston University (Class of 2007). In any case, like the weekly feature in JDD, it gives her favorite resto – la Table du Lancaster and bistrot – La Cuisine de Bar in the 6th, listed in the books as a café and run by Poilane and Co. Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand of Zurban, reviewed only one French place – La Guinguette à Vapeurs, in the Parc de la Villette at the Rond-point des Canaux, enter from 211, av Jean-Jaurès in the 19th, 01.40.03.72.21, open everyday, a la carte about 20-25 €, which he didn’t like much except for the mussels and petite friture. The other places he covered included two Italian restos – Il Tre + Osteria Ruggera, both in the 2nd and a Thai place – Thabthim Siam in the 8th. Wednesday, as well, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est nouveau” reviewed and gave two hearts each to two French places – the improbably named Why Not?, 123, ave de Wagram in the 17th, 01.42.27.61.50, closed Sundays where for about 40-45 € (lunch menu = 28 €, other = 34 €) one gets a “verrine” of piperade, poached egg with a chorizo emulsion and a refreshing declinaison of Grand- Marnier; Ripaille, 69, rue des Dames in the 17th, 01.45.22.03.03, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with a menu-carte of 23 € and 29, lunch formulas for 11 + 15 € with pumpkin soup, scallops with cauliflower and figs with warm wine sorbet; and the Thai place Ban Som Tam in the 17th. Then they gave only one heart to the Italian food-serving Bistrot 31, 31, avenue Théophile-Gautier in the 16th, 01.42.24.52.31, open everyday, running you about 30-45 € and the rugby-inspired K1ZE, 15, rue Gaillon in the 2nd, 01.47.42.28.34, closed Sundays with “ridiculous” asparagus, not really “fierce” patatas bravas and “interesting” bourguignon for 20-25 €, lunch formula = 15,5. Figaroscope’s “Dossier” covered Lebanese places: Fevrouz, Pavillion Noura, Al Dar, Al-Alani, Fakhr El Dine, Fleurs de thym, Rimal, Al Mankal, B-Café + Beyrouth Mets et Vins, Francois Simon’s ”Hache Menu” reviewed the Lebanese place Liza, which following my rules, I will not detail. Thursday in l’Express, there was a review by Jean-Luc Petitrenaud of Boulangerie Julien, 75, rue Saint-Honoré in the 1st raving about his baguette and chocolate tartelette. He also touts the Italian pasta épicerie – Le Mille Pâtes in the 1st. In the space usually dominated by Gilles Pudlowski in Le Point, Aurélie Jacques heralds the publication of Pudlo’s latest guide (2006: Michel Lafon, 459 p., 18 E) that features the 150 new restos that have appeared this year and a total of 1800 places located throughout Paris from the “eternal” (6th) to “emerging” (11th) arrondissements. In his own contribution that follows here (Le Point), GP went to the Costes brothers new brasserie with terrace - Le Village royal, 25, rue Royale in the 8th, 01.40.17.02.19, a la carte: 35-60 E for salmon tartar, chicken breast with curry and a raspberry macaron. He also notes that Benoit + Les Grades Marches are in good shape. Other pieces concern: the brioches of David Tamiser of Le Fournil du Château in Gordes, l’Oasis de Cassagne in Le Pontet (Avignon), Koji Aida’s Japanese place in Paris, anchovies from Collioure, the recipe for a salade of anchovies and Messa in Tel Aviv, Israel. Thursday, Jean-Claude Ribaut had an article on couscous where he mentions several prime destinations: La Boule rouge, la Mansouria de Fatema Hal, la Maison de Charly, Wally le Saharien + L'Atlas. {Ed Note: Persons interested in the various ways couscous is prepared and presented, e.g., with fish, meat, fennel, pumpkin, dry, wet, etc. should consult the text.} Jean-Louis Galesne in Friday’s Les Echos had an article on brunch, calling it a Parisian “institution.” He mentions that Philippe Toinard (of A Nous Paris fame) has put out a book called “Le Guide du brunch à Paris,” éditions de l'IF with 200 addreses that allows you to avoid mistakes and that the Crillon + Maison du Danemark are high on his (Toinard’s) list. However, he (Galesne) favors Liza, Kiwi Corner, Barrio Latino + le Ritz. Francois Simon in Le Figaro’s “Croque Notes,” this week, continued his tour of top restaurants with the Four Seasons George V, 01.49.52.71.54, where despite the two best sommeliers in the world, the best maitre d’ and a three-star chef, he manages to describe everything but the food, whose price, he asserts, would take the enamel off your teeth. In addition, he said that the place of the week is La Ferrandaise, 8, rue de Vaugirard, 01.43.26.36.36, with an astonishing menu at 30 E offering a chestnut and mushroom soup, poached scallops, pheasant hen with ancient vegetables and chocolate-nut entremets. Finally, in Figaro he discusses the magazine Restaurant’s best places in the world, reporting that the Fat Duck is Number 1 (the closest French one is Gagnaire in number 6 position and other stars, eg Ducasse, Robuchon, Savoy + Bocuse, behind). Added later: the exact positions of the French places were #6 Gagnaire, #11 Michel Bras, #16 Guy Savoy, #17 Alain Ducasse, #24 le Meurice, #26 l'Arpege, #29 le Cinq, #37 l'Auberge de l'Ill and #50 La Tupina. Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote the “Guy Martin Grand Vefour Buzz” and there is also a piece by John Talbott “On speaking French or at least Franglais when dining.” The Sunday New York Times had an article about Divonne-les-Bains by Anne Glusker that mentioned several restaurants: a sandwich/salad place – Les Quatre Vents, an “archetypal” French place serving international cuisine – Charlys Pub and two one-star restaurants in hotels – the Domaine de Divonne + Chateau de Divonne. In addition, the NYT Magazine had a piece by Maura Egan on the macaroon art done by an American artist, Will Cotton, mentioning two prominent Parisian macaroon-shops: Laduree + Fauchon and giving a recipe for Paris-type lemon ones. In the weekend FT, Sue Style had an article on (Vacherin) Le Mont d’Or suggesting UK’ers use it instead of Stilton at their Christmas dinners. {Ed Note: in the spirit of “Old dogs, etc” I finally learned that the Vacherin pre-word is used for that cheese from the Swiss side of the Juras; unencumbered Le Mont d’Or from the French side.} Amber Garrison, in Postcards from Paris, suggested several “incontournables” restos, eg that are “not too fancy, but classy and good.” They included: Le Pre Verre, Le Relais de l’Entrecôte, Tokyo Eat + Le Pure Café. Edited by John Talbott to add full details to French chefs/restos place in international ratings in Restaurant magazine. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

The NYT Magazine had a piece today by Maura Egan on the macaroon art done by an American artist, Will Cotton, mentioning two prominent Parisian macaroon-shops: Laduree + Fauchon and giving a recipe for Paris-type lemon ones.

Jean-Louis Galesne in today’s Les Echos has an article on brunch, calling it a Parisian “institution.” He mentions that Philippe Toinard (of A Nous Paris fame) has put out a book called “Le Guide du brunch à Paris,” éditions de l'IF with 200 addreses that allows you to avoid mistakes and that the Crillon + Maison du Danemark are high on his (Toinard's) list. However, he (Galesne) favors Liza, Kiwi Corner, Barrio Latino + le Ritz.

Today's L'Express has a review by Jean-Luc Petitrenaud of Boulangerie Julien, 75, rue Saint-Honoré in the 1st raving about his baguette and chocolate tartelette - no mention of a sandwich - but I'll check.

They're not really destination places in the sense that you'd arrange a trip around them. Sure l'Ardoise is nearer fancy hotels than rental flats and Le Troquet a demi-cantine for UNESCO, but they are not Paul Bocuse or Fredy Giradet where one planned the voyage around. I do indeed plan when to go to l'Ardoise rather than drop in at the last minute, because of its proximity to the Louvre and Jeu de Pommes and I call ahead at Le Troquet because sometimes they turn folks away.

My life is an open book, I cannot keep restaurant secrets; besides which, nobody will schlep up to the 18th. On the cook's night off I go, certainly without the papillon, to 2 Pieces Cuisine, Le Moulin de la Galette, l'Oriental + La Mascotte (without Amelie uinfortunately), and will go back to Le Voltigeur + Le Tяuc.

Thanks Phyllis. I'm pretty sure David Bizer went a few years ago since his thread mentions it. Also, aside from info in "What's Happening," this week's Figaro Madame magazine has a piece on four reasons to go.