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Everything posted by Brad Ballinger
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Echoing what some of the others have said... Dal Forno is a top notch Amarone producer, and 1990 was a great vintage. The wine will drink well now. It will also drink well ten years from now. My top choices for food pairing with Amarone are gorgonzola and game. It's a wine that can stand up to strongly flavored cuisine.
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Diving into the ocean of dessert wines is a tall (or deep) order. They tend to be more expensive on average than table wines. They also tend to be less versatile. And there are good and bad ones alike. I've had some that have blown me away and others that are nothing more than sugar water. The following applies to non-fortified dessert wines. Some things to keep in mind. The wine should be sweeter than the food with which you a pairing it. This is a general rule, which means exceptions exist, but still a good one to follow for starters. If the food is markedly sweeter, the wine will taste more astringent when paired with the food. Another generalization. As the age, the sugar in dessert wines loses its sweetness. The sugar is still there in the same amount, it's just that how it presents itself changes. Often it takes on a caramelized quality (versus a honeyed quality) and can even take on a burnt (in a good way) character like the topping of a creme brulee. This is for white dessert wines. Many dessert wines are great partners for strongly flavored cheese, especially bleus. The list of books provided above is good background reading. But, of course, the real learning is in the tasting.
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First, I wholly support Mark's recommendations. The Pierre Peters is excellent Champagne. The only other I would add is the Vilmar Cuvee Rubis, if you are interested in a rose. But, if you want sparkling wine not from Champagne, a couple more stand out to me -- the Robert Weil Sekt and the Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta. For reds, again, I'm with Mark on the Monthile Volnay for Burgundy. For Barbera the Giacosa, and for Dolcetto the Pecchinino. But further down the list, the Lemberger under German red wines will be light in style as well, and have plenty of acidity to go well with many foods. And, if you've saved enough on the dinner wines, spring for the Huet Vouvray Moelleux on the dessert wine list.
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Nicely done, Jim. I still can't believe both times I've been to Banner Elk, NC, you haven't been there. But I know our paths will cross at some point.
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Also, not a big fan of California Sangiovese wine, but the one I've thought has done an okay job is Bennessere. I may have misspelled that, but it's close. Staglin also does a decent job (the wine is called Stagliano), but it's only worth about half the price IMO.
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A couple of months back, my wife offered a wine tasting as a silent auction item for a charity event to benefit the Minneapolis Chapter of the American Red Cross. Marcia is on the Board of Directors for the chapter, and a good Director should sponsor an auction item or two. It was featured as a wine tasting for eight in your home, with hors d’oeuvres, conducted by us. She wanted to add the words “wine expert” (or something like that, but I wouldn’t let her – because it’s simply not true). I can’t recall what we settled on as a compromise descriptor. We’ve done this sort of thing before for other charities with which she has been involved. I like doing them most of the time. But at the last one I did, the bidders and the guests they invited seemed more interested in trying to show off their wine “knowledge” (quite badly I might add), and it left a bad taste in both of our mouths. But we got back up on the horse and decided to give it another go. Marcia was fairly new to the Red Cross board, and this would be a way for her to build relationships – that is, assuming a board member had the winning bid. After all, it could’ve gone to anyone in attendance. Well, we were lucky. A fellow board member (also relatively new) bid on it. He and his wife invited three other couples into their home for the tasting. I usually leave this in the hands of the host as to what type of tasting they wish to do. The host said that his guests had some wine knowledge, and certainly liked it a lot. He thought a good idea would be to feature wines or wine regions that are “hot” right now. I thought that was a great idea, not knowing if I could deliver on it or not. But it would be a fun theme, and a good one that he could “market” to his guests. I also wanted to expose the guests to wines that they might not otherwise get a chance to taste. I settled on Recoltant-Manipulant Champagne, Germany, Sicily, and domestic Syrah. I threw in a couple dessert wines for fun. This was a terrific group. They asked good questions – question they really wanted to know the answers to and not posturing questions for them to attempt to show off their knowledge (such as has happened other times I’ve done this). This made the conversation light, friendly, and effortless. They appreciated that I was there as one of them, a consumer, and that I wasn’t “selling” any of the wines I brought. 1996 Champagne Pierre Peters “Cuvée Speciale” Blanc de Blancs Brut, Les Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru. Dead dead dead. I pulled the cork – no pop, no sssss, no vapor. I poured the wine. No mousse. Damn shame. A very bad way to start. And I didn’t bring any back up bottles. $41. NV Champagne E. Barnaut Blanc de Noirs Brut, Bouzy Grand Cru. At least this on is alive. Rich straw color. Active bead. A hefty dose of toast on the nose. Flavors of tart apples, strawberries, some roasted nuts, and a chalky mineral quality. Mousse was slightly on the coarse side. The core wine itself showed a high acidity level, which I always like. This helped avoid a drop-off once the mousse spent itself in the mouth. One person commented that this was the first Champagne he had ever liked. $28. 2003 Donnfugata Anthilia, Sicilia IGT. This wine is a blend of 50% ansonica and 50% cataratto. This is my first time with the 2003, which I found to be not quite what the lovely 2002 was. This one shows a bit more green character, and gives up a little something in the concentration of fruit department and the acidity department to the wine from the previous vintage. There are some carambola flavors that find a way to surface. But, overall, the wine didn’t have the complexity I was hoping for based on the 2002. The guests liked it, though, which is the important thing. One woman commented on how it was much better than the Pinot Grigio she usually drinks. I didn’t ask her which one that would be. $15. 1999 H. Dönnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese, Nahe. One of the guests recognized this label the minute he walked in the door. He couldn’t wait to get to it. He also took the leftover wine in the bottle home with him. This is about the fourth of fifth time I’ve had this wine over the past 2-3 years. It’s still a powerfully fruity wine. The nose shows some sulfur/petrol that slightly blew off over about 20 minutes. It’s a juice bomb in the mouth – pears, some peach, some tropical, some telltale cherry. Although it lacks the acidity of some other wines in the stable, primarily from other vintages, there is still enough here to keep it from being fat and flabby. $23. 2000 Philipp Kuhn Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Spätburgunder Trocken, Pfalz. This was the first German red wine the group had ever seen. But I imagine many U.S. people reading this would be in that category. This was I wine I carried back from Germany last fall. Philipp uses new French oak, and it shows on the nose. At the top of the aromas coming out of the glass is an unmistakable scent of dill. I can’t stand dill in much of anything, so it’s going to turn me off straightaway. Once I commented on it, all the guests could smell it, too (ahhh, the power of suggestion). Layered beneath it was some mineral character, some black cherry, and some vanilla. In the mouth, the wine showed a surprisingly deft balance that I wouldn’t have imagine based on the up front dill. It was very pleasant – light bodied, yet not lacking for harmony of fruit, mineral, even if the acid is a bit on the low side. The guests liked this wine very much. $32 2000 Valle dell’Acate Tané, Sicilia IGT. This wine is a 100% nero d’avola that desperately wants to be a syrah (or at least wants to prove that nero d’avola can stand on its own and doesn’t need to be blended with syrah), and 2000 is the maiden vintage for Tané. The almost black color, though, belies the medium bodied feeling the wine creates in the mouth. The nose is one of freshly crushed and spicy blueberries and blackberries. Although this wine ages for 12-14 in barrique, it carries the wood well, and is not overpowered by it. Yet, one is always aware of its presence. The fruit is what shows through on the palate enveloped in herbs and spices. A nice acidity level as well. I think it still needs a year or two to bring some elements into harmony. Personally, I prefer a brighter, less heavy-handed winemaking approach to nero d’avola, but this wine has the potential to win me over depending on how it ages. $45. 1999 Garretson “The Finné” Syrah, Alban Vineyard, Edna Valley. One whiff, and I know I’m no longer in Europe. Quite ripe blueberries, cream, and oak. And oak. It’s a luscious mouthful of fruit and sweet oak. Acidity on the low side. But there’s plenty of power here to entertain and impress the guests. I’m not sure they’re the type to pay the sticker price, but they certainly liked it. I would’ve liked some more mineral and dimension. I have another bottle left, and will still let it sit for a couple more years. $65. 2000 deLille Cellars “Doyenne” Syrah, Yakima Valley. Blueberries (not as ripe as the Garretson), oak, and alcohol. And oak. And alcohol (15.2%). If it wasn’t being upstaged by the oak and alcohol, I really liked the fruit profile of this wine. And there were some secondary elements of spice and coffee, and a trace of minerality. Finished with a bit of a burn. The guests also liked this wine. The tannins were ripe, yet firm. This, too, may need a bit more time. But I fear the alcohol will always be an issue, for me at any rate. $41. 1989 Lafaurie Peyraguey, Sauternes. This wine is just starting to turn (in a good way) where the sugar is shedding some of its up front sweetness and taking on more of a crème brulée character. It’s more noticeable on the nose than on the palate at present. The flavors in the mouth show some caramelized tropical fleshy fruits, a bit of coconut, and some honey-roasted nuts. The acidity packs a punch, giving the wine brightness and lift even as it is starting to show some mature character. I bought this so long ago I have no idea what it cost then or now. 2001 Domaine du Mas Amiel Maury. The host couple advised there would be a rich chocolate dessert, so I threw this bottle in the mix. I’ve gone on record as still preferring coffee with chocolate, but in the interest of education I offered the group a wine that many like to pair with chocolate. They liked it quite a bit, commenting that is doesn’t quite have the Robitussin quality they’ve found in many ports they’ve had. The wine shows a nose of chocolate and sweet red fruit. It is equally uncomplicated on the palate – pleasant enough, even if it doesn’t blow one away with power or complexity. $18. All eight of the participant thoroughly enjoyed the evening, commenting that they got “a steal.” And maybe they did, but I had a good time as well. To my surprise, the hosts offered Marcia and I a bottle of 1987 Lafite Rothschild, Paulliac. The bottle came into their possession when the husband stopped to help a woman with car trouble several years ago. She sent the bottle as a “thank you.” I don’t know how many years ago that was. The bottle had been in “storage” on a wine rack in the dining room ever since (but never in direct sunlight). When I spotted the wine earlier, and heard the story, I advised the couple that they may wish to drink it sooner than later given the reputation of the 1987 vintage. Now Marcia and I will be the ones to drink in sooner than later, most likely this coming weekend as we celebrate our anniversary.
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100% Restaurant Cancellation Policy
Brad Ballinger replied to a topic in The Heartland: Cooking & Baking
Complete bullshit IMO. I had no idea the Hyatt's cashflow problems were that tight. I would've cancelled, explaining to MIL she can reserve it on her credit card. And for good measure, I'd call a number of times over the next month, ask to reserve a time for dinner, and then "change your mind" once they tell you about the practice of charging your credit card. Hell, you don't even get charged for a room at the Hyatt unless you are a no show after 10:00 p.m. -
Check out this site for a great list of Italian cheeses and ideas of what to do with them.
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August 2 for me, so I opt for the soltice. It will bring back memories of a day in graduate school where, in true pagan fashion, a whole mess of us celebrated the summer soltice by tapping the first keg at sunrise. I'll bring a 88 Climens, unless it will still be too young.
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It just so happens that I have one mag of 61 Margaux left. If you and Brad planned a proper Pagan ritual maybe we could attract some other eGer's and indulge ourselves. Are you my new Best Friend? Ooooh Ooooh - I used to TEACH Paganism! If I plan the ceremony and bring along a d'Yquem, can I come along????? There's got to be a way to make this happen.
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I got it. We'll split the cost, I'll drink the first half, then ship the rest to you.
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Same here. I knew there was a reason I liked your vibe. I've yet to have a wine from 1961 (with Bordeaux being the way to go of course). And the wines are priced so far out of reach. I need to find some extremely generous friends, and then get them to bestow an act of kindness upon me.
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I know someone who will probably go. Not that I travel much in his circles. He mostly slums in mine.
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Cliches I can do without ("cliche" defined as something that is utterly predictable and no longer very original, but still treated as both original and novel -- such as what started this thread out, mango salsa)... raspberry vinaigrette garlic mashed-potatoes molten chocolate cake ramen noodle "Asian" salad grilled chicken Caesar salad sun-dried tomatoes in pasta dishes port wine reduction flavored coffee (maybe not a cliche, just a bad idea bruschetta insalata caprese that has nothing Italian in it That's enough for now.
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All right. Since I'm the one who called it infanticide (for the rest of you -- in a PM), I should probably weigh in. I like the Champagne idea, and I would go with something from an older vintage -- 1990 if you can find it in good shape. But the 1995s are drinking very well right now, too. This dish also calls out for a Chablis. But if your heart is set on chenin, it's hard to go wrong with a Huet Vouvray Sec or even Demi-Sec. If your heart is set on Nicolas Joly, I'd go with one of his other Savennieres wines and save the Coulee de Serrant. Other options would be the Baumard "regular" bottling or Domaine du Closel. And if you want something that's always good young - a Condrieu from Villard. Edited to add: But who am I kidding. You're going to open the Coulee de Serrant.
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A lot of variety here. Big Night soundtrack Next Stop Wonderland soundtrack LA Confidential soundtrack Swingers soundtrack Ska Jazz Todd Rundgren Esquivel
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Now there's a winery name you don't see that often. Benessere is one of those Napa Valley wineries that does an above average job with sangiovese - either in the rosso or rosato form. But it's been years since I've even seen a bottle of the stuff.
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In the Cafe Boulud Cookbook, Daniel Boulud has a recipe for Short Ribs Braised in Red Wine with Celery Duo (celery root puree and braised celery ribs) that is nothing short of wonderful. A link to the recipe is here at epicurious.com.
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Nah, look at all his recent notes. Futronic either hates everything, is a tough critic, or is in a dry spell.
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Nearly all of the notes posted here are from people who do not shill for the wine they are writing about. Bill also has a point about peole not wanting to rip a wine, so they just won't post at all. (I don't suffer from that affliction, personally, but I can understans others not wanting to post those notes). Regarding prices, some posters include them and some don't. I know some people who don't like to post prices because they don't want whoever might find out to know how much they've spent on certain bottles of wine. Others are okay with it.
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Every bottle of 1993 Pol Roger anything I've had has been toward the bottom of the list in terms of Champagnes I've tasted in my lifetime.
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The only 375ml bottles I've purchased retail have been sweet wines. The 375ml table wines I've purchased have all been in restaurants when dining alone. When 375s aren't available, I'll order a full bottle and take the rest home (where permitted) or give the rest to the server (which usually results in a free dessert or something like that). And magnums of Champagne are great (providing the methode champenoise took place in the magnum bottle, and wasn't just two 750s poured into a magnum, which does happen).
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Premier Cru in Emeryville, K&L in San Francisco, The Wine Club in San Francisco. All have large import selections. And if you can't find Banfi in the bay area, even at shops other than these, I'd be the most surprised I've been in a long time.
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Mongo, Marcella Hazan's Classic Italian Cookbook. Two deviations - I bake, not boil. And I pierce the skin to let moisture escape. If boiling, don't pierce.
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Gnocchi is such a fussy and finicky food to begin with, I've never considered doing any part of it ahead of cooking and bringing the entire meal to the table. I'd like to hear from anyone who has either 1) made the dough ahead of time then formed and cooked the gnocchi later or 2) formed the gnocchi ahead of time and cooked them later, with no drop-off in quality.