pedalaforte

did you stay at that hotel he raves about in trento? my god. that was one of the best places i've ever been ... and it was like $85 a night (dollar was stronger). i can't find my copy right now. it was in the hills above town and it was a re-made monastery/convent. ← No, we stopped there the first time inadvertently, and we were looking for anything. We had been cycling up north and were getting rained out, so we left Canazei a day early and decided to spend that extra day in Trento. Odd as it sounds, we found rooms in Trento at the Hotel America! It was actually a great place, just outside the walls. I had brought copied pages from Trento "just in case" we decided to stop there. I don't have my notes with me here, but we ate at two places he recommended, one a breakfast place and the other something, maybe, called Due Torre? "Due" something. It was a casual place but had great food. In Bolzano, we ate dinner at whatever the place he recommends that has two floors and is "student hangout." It was not a low-budget student hangout, but the food was fantastic and the atmosphere also was great. I had exactly what he said was grreat -- and it was great. I remember horseradish soup and stinco maille with canaderli and sauerkraut. Gooooood stuff. Great regional wines. Moderate prices. Cheers

Perhaps it was me who could be accused of denigrating Fred's book. I take back any denigration, pleased that there is a new edition. I had heard that the new book would be out last May and checked Amazon regularly for it. So I did like his writing; it just needed updating. It's nice to know the new version will be out this May. I DID enjoy his book and used it on our trip in 1998. I still refer to it regularly, and I, too, found in some cities that he could point me to great places (Bolzano and Trento, in particular), even as recently as 2004. So, I, what? Take it back? OK. He deserves it. Good guy. Cheers

Not "perhaps" outdated? Outdated, period, in my opinion. Definitely his selections for Piedmont are now mostly way out of touch (if not thin in the first place). I wonder about other areas. As you know, I've been researching a trip to the Bologna area, and several of his hot-spot places are out of business. I heard that he was updating the thing. That was welcome news. I loved that book when it first came out, and I used it in several regions, so I do agree that it's an interesting read still. But I think -- and please correct me if I'm wrong -- it's definitely getting a little long in the tooth. Cheers (EDIT: hmmmm, perhaps that is what you said! So never mind! Cheers.)

Wow, Mark. Great report. I'm going to Bologna next Novemeber for four days, and your report certainly will be in my portfolio! Thanks. Any nice walks you found to purge all that great food? Cheers

Bill: We DID work hard to get the price up that high. I hope my words didn't send our friend away from Antine; it truly was one of our memorable meals, every part of it. A short history of how to get to $100 per person: I was the only person who spoke any Italian at all, and I am just slightly better than illiterate. But I thought i had a pretty good grasp of "restaurant Italian." So I did all the ordering. We of course ordered many, many appetizers, given that it was Peidmont after all. When we got to the first course, I thought we could SHARE a couple of plates of both tajarin and agnolotti, which we needed to try. But we (five of us) are used to this maybe American ritual of passing a couple of plates for everyone to take a few bites. So I thought that was what I was ordering -- just a couple of plates to share -- when I did this little hand swirl thing to communicate that we all would share. Of course, the "hand swirl" did not mean the same thing to the non-English-speaking server, who took it to mean one of each appetizer each, one tajarin each, one agnolotti each for everyone. We knew we were in trouble by the tajarin, but what the heck -- it was our first night in Italy and the wines had been flowing. Then the main course came. Then the desserts, of which Antine made the best panna cotta of the trip (which my wife repeated pretty stunningly at our Christmas feast for friends just last Friday). We did order good wines, but not outrageously expensive ones. Their wine list served us well even in the moderately priced range. Yes, Antine still gets my vote. Cheers

Jonathan: heck of a list! They are a who's who/what's what of the herd in the region. Do be careful about prices. I think you might be surprised at how high these places are. The only restaurant of those I've been to is Antine, which was outstanding at every level. I think we had some of the best food we had in Italy at Antine. But we EACH also dropped $100 at dinner. Now, keep in mind that we tried everything -- way more food than a human being should stuff into a body in one evening. And we also had more wine than necessary too. But we didn't buy outrageously expensive wines (you don't have to). My memory is we had 35-50 euro wines. So just FYI. Check out some of the earlier discussions about cheaper places with great food. I think Tim or Rina at Villa Sampaguita near Asti offered suggestions. I'll look for my notes. Cheers EDIT to ADD: (from Tim at Villa Sampaguita) My favourite restaurants for this year, in a real price range are Rabaja in Babaresco, Cascina Schiavenza in Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo & Co and Pompa Magna in Asti, Madama Vigna in Baldichieri, and if you want an expensive (but not too) restaurant try I Bologna in Rochetta Tanaro or Vignaiolo in La Morra. Il Bardon in Calamandrana has an excellent reputation, although it was aways closed or full when I wanted to go there.

"I would be skeptical of the tartufi at La Contea as well. I think that Tonino studied marketing in the U.S.!" ←

Dear Sampaguita (a.k.a., Mr. T. -- my name too, by the way!). Thanks for all the suggestions. As always. I am coming back myself to Piedmont next Thanksgiving season with my wife and another couple. I'm keeping a file and surely I will try some of your suggestions. I did eat at Antine last time we were there and, as youo suggest, it was very expensive. But we sure did enjoy ourselves there on our first night of a three-week cycling trip to Italy. It was our splurge, and I think it really was worth it. On the other hand, the owners of the B&B at which we stayed took us out with their friends our final night in the region to one of their own local standards. We spent a third of the price and enjoyed ourselved tremendously. We ate verrry well there, too. (Ostu d'Ajou? in Castegnito). I hope to meet you some day and say thanks in person. Thanks also for the suggestion in Oleggio. We always stay in Oleggio before slying home from Malpensa. Our favorite place there (we don't know many) was closed last time and we were forced to go to a mass-market pizzeria. It was OK, so I'll note your suggestion. Ciao

I love the Kramer book, too, but the guy is way off on his measurements, especially about pasta. (That's my assessment anyway!) What I've found that works: 1 cup of flour to four egg yolks and one whole egg (or two more egg yolks). My wife is a professor of nutrition, and she just cringes every time I keep working in those straight egg yolks. So to keep a happy marriage, I put in one whole egg. The compromises! We, too, have our own girls giving us eggs daily, and there's no substitute for fresh, fresh, fresh. And, Bill, Antine did have the best tajarin we tried last visit, but we sure did dump come change in that place! Cheers

Thanks, team! I have noted all the suggestions you've made and I'll pass them to my friends. And, more important, you've convinced me to head to Piedmont myself again next fall. My wife adores truffle oil, so I think it's time to put her in front of a plate of the real thing. Porcini en papillote, uvoli reali ... we're coming. Cheers, all.

Thanks, Ms./Mrs./Mr. wkl! I will note BOTH places and pass them on. It seems my friends might have some narrowing to do. But I'll make sure I'M not so rushed when I visit next year. Ciao

Thanks, Bill. You might remember that I GOT most of the choices above from you before my last trip to the area -- and great advice it was back then. Thanks so much for the update. A couple of followups: -- are any of these places open for lunch? And do you happen to know which days they are closed? -- I know this will sound like a major flaw in their character (!), but they are only going to be there on Thursday and Friday. So that's two dinners, two lunches probably. (As I said, they were going to Tuscany, and I talked them into diverting to Piedmont. even if just for two days of truffles.) -- will they be able to get a taste of truffles around Dec. 7-8? -- From Malpensa on the way to Neive, is there any place you might suggest that they stop for a reasonable lunch? That is, they'll be tired from the overnight, but there's no good reason to not eat well for their first meal in Italy, right? -- Do you know these restaurants near Canali: LaSosta in Montabone (near Bistagno/Canelli); Il Bardone (Canelli/Calamandrana); Rabaja in Barbaresco and Cascina Schiavenza in Serralunga? These came highly recommended as lower-key, more local places. Whatever that means. Thanks again. I'd say I owe you one large bottle of wine, but, hell, you LIVE in Neive. The luck!

Hi, Swiss. Thanks for the suggestions. I was trying to remember the name of the restaurant, "Duomo," I've seen recommended in Alba itself. I am recommending that they stay near Alba at either Cascine Reine or at Cascina della Rosa (closer to Neive in Tre Stelle). So I would think they'd be looking for places closer to Alba than to Asti, although the drive is short. I WILL pass along your recommendation of Da Maria in Zanco. It sounds great, and -- more important -- it sounds less touristy, more real. To answer your question about type of restaurant, I would say they're open to suggestions such as the ones you gave. They don't NEED to spend a lot of money, but I think they could kick it in if the right restuarant was suggested. On the other hand, I think they really, really want to taste something of the local culture, not just the local food. (Except for truffles!) Thanks. Any other ideas are certainly welcome. Cheers

I talked my friends into going to Piedmont when they go to Italy Dec. 7 -- they were planning to go straight to Tuscany and blah, blah, blah. So they switched, even if just for two days! Questions: -- Will they still be able to get fresh truffles in restaurants and for approximately how much (say, shaved on tajarin)? -- Which restaurants should they hit for lunch or dinner? My recommendations are two years old now; are they still the spots? Antine? Posta? Cesare's new place? Guido's neew place? Vicoletto still going? Il Centro in Priocca? How about in Alba itslef? -- Are these restaurants outrageously expensive? Thanks for the help!

Thanks to all. We definitely are leaning toward Sicily as my wife really, really wants to visit. She's fascinated by the north African influences, in-season citrus possibilities and, of course, fresh artichokes! We (and the couple we with whom we will travel) are fascinated by the history and art, and certainly we would visit Monreale, Palermo's many highlights, and, Segesta and Selinute. But, in particular, we love to see the countryside and its bounty in bloom and to see how that translates onto local tables! That is, we want to taste what's in Sicily's fields in March. So, given only nine days, that's why we would stay west, to try to capture a little of just that small -- or not-so-small -- part of Sicily. As for Bologna suggestions, and my thought to add Venice: I really want the same things as above from a proposed trip to the Bologna area -- artisan food experiences. I've almost memorized Burton Anderson's "Treasures of the Italian Table," having read many chapters as many as 20 times. Really. So the Venice sidelight really was just a sidelight to a more in-depth (hmmm, nine days) look at the wealth of food-Bologna! I do know that Venice deserves its due; I just don't want to give it that until I'm through with culatello, parmeggiano, and balsamic! Thanks for all your thoughts. I definitely am thinking about Trapani and, now, Menfi! Cheers

I just found out I might be able to go to Italy in mid-March. I'm considering two options: NW Sicily or Bologna. My wife wants to go to Sicily, so that's first under consideration. I'd like to go to Bologna area. Questions: 1. In Sicily (northwest or west only), would be see flowers/trees (almonds?) in bloom? Would fresh vegetables be on -- the early stuff? We can deal with wet or nippy (we would appreciate sun, Jim. Z.!), but would it be miserable? 2. In Bologna area, are the winter foggy times past by mid March? We want to hit the cullatello bottom-lands. And the parm-highlands. And Parma itself, but also the surrounding hills and towns. We want to eat, in other words. 4. With nine days total, would someone visiting the Bologna area subtract, say, two days for Venice? Never been there, in spite of the fact that every human I've ever met has told me it's the most romantic place in the world. 5. With nine days total in Sicily, how many would you devote to Palermo itself (given day trips to Monreale, maybe Cefalu)? My thought: three in Palermo, head to Scopello or Castlemare and day trip from there to Erice, Zingaro, Segesta, what? Trapani? 3. In both places, are most restaurants open that time of year? We like the peace and quiet of March, which might not be present in Venice.

Um, Robyn: I can grow a friggin' haricot vert in Utah, by gawd, that's as good as any bean in France. That is to say that local beans are local beans. Fresh is good. Fresh is close. Las Vegas is close. Cut me a snobby break. I've never written in to this site before, and perhaps this is why. I know the new sous chef at The Mansion. Yes, he can cut that bean into perfect little pieces and steam or saute or roast it as well as any French kid who was viciously berated since birth by some French trainer. Sorry, I disagree. Ciao

Get this: I can buy Montasio by the cartload in Salt Lake City, Utah. Imagine, a place where you can't even buy a real beer and you can get all the Montasio you might want. Must have something to do with the 10-20 people of Italian ancestry living in the state! Cheers

Remember that it will be winter. So, winter veggies. Around the Christmas holidays, how about: -- Roasted red onions w/balsamic glaze -- Braised fennel w/lemon mixed with roasted beets -- some kind of baked squash. Butternut, acorn – I don’t know, mash it? Add roasted garlic? Glaze it w/something! Tons of recipes, but you should definitely have baked winter squash. -- Brussels sprouts? Some people love them. Like … me. Roast them, pan sear them, steam them .. whatever. Add maybe some lemon flavored olive oil, maybe some toasted sesame seeds. Maybe a zippy mustard instead of the lemon oil? ALL of the above can be made well ahead of time and reheated to perfection. Slow-roast some roma tomatoes! I do know they’re out of season, but slow roasting them gives even winter-weary tomatoes a rich flavor. Perhaps add some carmelized onions and a sliver of that fresh mozz on a crostini – yep, a perfect appetizer. Definitely don’t do any kind of fresh (sure!) tomato salad. Just a few random thoughts. Cheers

Wow. Sounds fantastic and, more important, fun. I remember you mentioned that soem folks had less discerning tastes than others (I could be misstating it exactly). I'm wondering about the feedback you received from some of the less adventurous. This sounds great. Did they think so and were you surprised by anyone or anything? And, you better not wait an entire year to come up with another great meal! Ciao

Sounds great. Everything. A few thoughts from me, given the responses from others. First, a broad point: Italian food in my mind is, first and foremost, about cooking with local seasonal ingredients. So, pesto yes! (We just made our first fresh batches last week, and we slathered bread all weekend.) That means, too, that I disagree with Franci perhaps. Yes, tuna is more Italian; salmon is more local and more fresh this time of year in America. Good choice I'd say. I do like Franci's idea for the shrimp, however. Perhaps you could infuse that "boring" oil with some lively peppers? Or, glaze the shrimp with honey infused with lemon-peppers? Just a thought. Vegetables! Broccoli rabe is way gone or too early. Our chard is still hangin out, use that. Well, use yours. If I were coming, I'd ask that you plug some more vegetables into the scene. I like mixed green salad always, but why add the meat? It doesn't need it. It does sound cool. I'm not vegetarian, but you can get great, tasty greens right now. Skip the duck, and I would lighten the dressing. Again, this is not to criticize the roasted fig balsamic -- which sounds amazing - but it's summer. Lighter might be better. I'm with whomever suggested fennel, orange, olives. Marinate the fennel in a sugar-vinegar wash to soften it; they'll love it. Get fresh tomatoes for whatever you do with them. They're on. Green beans are on. Squash are on (grill zukes and dash with that reduced balsamic you have. That'llbe a different flavor of summer.) Arugula might still be on in your neck of the woods. Beef people! Oh well. You could use this as an excuse to show them there's more to life! Overall this is an amazing feat you do. I remember last year's menu and it still gives me shivers of delight. Good luck with it all. It sounds like you have a lot of fun with it. And, besides, you have plenty of wine on site to wash away any real cares. Ciao

Try Dalla Rosa Alda in San Georgio (west of Fumane, north of San Ambrogio). It was recommened to me here as the best place to eat in the area. We loved it. It was written up last year in Saveur (the week we were there it came out on the shelves); we happened to make it just before the accolades. It fits your model: a more-casual place with great food. Saveur May 2004, I think.

We will be visiting Cordoba early next year for about 10 days. We will have a car. I've done a search here, but I'm confused so far by the geography; that is, I don't know the small towns in the area. So, please, can anyone make restaurant (and other) recommendations for places in the area? Certainly we are interested in the big-budget places, but we are especially interested in the lower-key, more-local eateries. Please recommend dishes too. I have a lot of research to do before we go. Thank you for the help. Ciao

Again --because the suggestion might have been lost -- FLANS. They are among the greatest edible bites on the planet. Parmesan flans w/roasted red pepper sauce. Easy and dazzling and good. No, better than good. Cheers