pedalaforte

What if we ARE middle aged but happen to ACT like children? Especially given enough wine! Yes, we're near Asti from Nov. 21-26; Bologna first, from Nov. 16-20. Ciao

Is three days enough to see Piedmont? Of course not! On the other hand, as stated (coarsely, but true!) by Hathor, you do what you can do. Three full days will give you a good taste of the place and, since it's your first trip to Italy, you might be right in picking two places -- Tuscany/Piedmont? Send me an email and I will send my compiled Piedmont restaurant list. It's pretty up to day, but it's just a compilation of many, many posts here and on SlowTrav, with my own experiences thrown in as well. SWISS CHEF: I'LL buy the wine if you're around in late November! Cheers all. tim.vitale@usu.edu

I am a Piedmont fanatic, so I would always recommend it -- especially if food and wine are at the top of your list. (We're going again in November, then again in June.) But if this is your first trip to Italy at all, I would consider something else. 10 days? Fly into Milan, rent car. Go to Florence for three (you have to see one city and I would pick Florence), Tuscany for three more, then finish with three in Piedmont. You're close to the Milan airport to head home. If you like this scenario, I have lots of info, epecially on Piedmont, and would be glad to make specific recommendations. Cheers

We'll be there Nov. 16-28. I definitely will report back about the trip. We're planning to hit some of the revered hot spots, but we're really looking forward to finding some more low-key, chummier places. The owner of the place we are staying has suggested a couple that sound perfect, and another friend who runs cycling excursions in the area has recommended a couple more. Be well and enjoy the fall travels. I'm sure I'll be searching for more updated info as our trip nears, and I'll share all I find. Cheers

And so I eat (my words, that is)! In fact, if I can edit them I will. I like the additions to the Trento listing. The Bolzano listing kept my favorite place (whose name escapes me ... it's the long dining reference with the horseradish soup). I'll stick with my assessment of the Piedmont region, however, but respect the certainly true idea that no human being can eat at or review every place in that region. So it's on to Bologna (and Polesine Parmense) and Piedmont this fall with Mr. Plotkin's book very much in hand. And I'll be certain to visit the Asti market. Cheers

I did note some of the changes in the Florence section, including the enoteca list. Nice, short list. He pared down his first-edition accolades about Pane e Vino; still likes it. From my memory, the new version has Sostanza, Cibreo, Pane e Vino ... can't remember any more. I don't have the book with me. Iw as surprised he no longer included Fuori Porta wine bar. Pontormo: I too like it as a reference for regional cooking. And, as I said, perhaps with a closer look, I'll be a convert. Cheers all.

Hi all. I just got the new edition of Fred Plotkin's bible of gourmet eating in Italy. I did a quick scan this morning, and on first reading I didn't note much new or updated from the 1996 version? I went immediately to the Piedmont section, which I had almost memorized from the first edition by looking at it, oh, perhaps 5,000 times! I knew that section wasn't his most complete chapter in the first version, but I expected him to have rounded it out in the new one given that Piedmont has become so "found" (given, too, that it deserves to have been found!). So I was surprised to find that: Guido is still in Castigliole d'Asti; that Vicoletto still serves dinner; that Antine/Posta/Duomo/Renzo/Centro/Bardone/I Caffi/etc. aren't on the planet; that ... on and on and on. After reading most of the Piedmont section, I actually went back to the title page to see if my daughter (it was a gift) had bought the wrong version! Really, I thought I was reading the same book I'd read so many times already. And, in fact, I was. I don't know. Maybe it's just me. I will use it to death, I'm sure. I'm just a little disappointed. I do know that it's tough to do justice to an entire country's food scene in one book. I mean, how much can one human eat! I'm not saying there's nothing there; I still see great places listed. It just doesn't seem so up to date in some areas. I'm willing to apologize and eat my words if you folks think I'm wrong. I know Pontormo is a big fan, as am I in many ways. I like the guy. He seems to care about what I care about. And it's a resource for sure. OK, too much stream of consciousness reviewing -- not the most fair style of reviewing! What do you think? Cheers

Thanks to both of you for the advice. This place sounds fantastic. I've cut and pasted it for my files as we are heading that way in November. Many thanks. Cheers

I understand the vegetarian part and thank you for the advice. My wife is extremely easy to please and never makes a scene. She will be fine, but I will make sure to tell her what you said. The rest of us want badly to eat at this place! My wife the vegetarian is, in fact, lookng forward to seeing how the animals are treated in the area. From what I've read and understand, there is a completely different respect for the animals as evidenced in the way they are treated. I think my wife would be fine with meat if she knew it were not treated in the heartless, disrepectful ways in which large, industrial American meat producers raise their meat. I'm not trying to start a vegetarian war here -- I eat meat. But I read a fantastic article about the owners of Cavallino Bianco and how they came to purchase and now care for the pigs they raise. The living conditions are exceptionally respectful and humane. Etc.! Sorry to get off track for a bit. So, I do think we'll be OK at La Buca. Thanks for the advice. I'm looking forward to it even more after reading your summary. Cheers

We're going to Zibello during our November trip. La Buca. Can't wait. Then Bologna (Modena: Giusti), then Piedmont. I just heard that the owner of Giusti's in Modena died this week. Sad. CHeers

Pontormo: I ordered Plotkin yesterday. I know you're a big fan, as was I in the early days of his first edition. I went to a lot of great places because of that first book! Cheers

While in "Milan," go to Piedmont: agnolotti, tajarin, bagna cauda (maybe it's more of a fall-winter thing), panna cotta, vitello tonatto, Castelmagno cheese. Good eats!

They'll need a few plates of pasta for Wednesday's stage up the Agnello! Tomorrow they go through Acqui Terme, Alba and Bra -- an "easy" "transition" day of only 200 km. (And, we had the pesto and crispy white last night. Something from Corvo from Sicily -- can't remember the grape, but it was lively and good, definitely NOT chardonnay. It was cheap.) Cheers

Liguria today, then Piedmont. Yum, yum! Instead of cooking, I think I'll drink the regions.

Castlemagno -- from the source itself in western Piedmont! And, although it almost seems boring given its accessibility, good Parm-Regg is beyond rapproach.

Thanks, Peter, for the update. We are thinking about I Bologna when we visit in November. That place has always fascinated me, and this time we are staying closer to where it is. It might be the one "big bucks" place we hit. I understan that prices are reasonable, especially for what you get. The cellar sounds fascinating. Can you purchase wines to take home, or is this not the kind of place that does that? That is, would we be better off just buying from an enoteca? Thanks. Cheers.

And to the good Doc S.: I haven't forgotten your recommedation either about balsamic. I've been able to come up with addresses for both. Now to decide which one to visit. Thanks. I'll check back in and fill in the details upon returning. Cheers

Thanks for the update, John. We are going to Bologna in the late fall, and it's good to get an updated list. My wife definitely likes unique places, and this sounds like one. Cheers

Ilike Mario, right next to ZaZa so right next to the Mercato Centrale. It used to be authentic and non-touristy. I hear it's been more than found, but that the food still is the same -- bowls of brown gloppy stuff that are unimaginably good. (Ribolitta, risotto, panzanella -- although not brown! -- etc.) Go for lunch and get there BEFORE noon or you won't get a seat. I also like I Che C'e C'e near the Piazza della Signoria. Cheers

All is well. Yes, we missed you here and elsewhere. I had a barbera last night (something called, maybe, Three Sisters, or something to that effect) and thought of you guys. Thanks for the geographical note about this restaurant. I found it after you detailed its location. We're looking forward to our visit. It's seeming more and more distant as work weighs in, but I do know that the trip is coming up. By the way, I hope it is all right that we have grown in number by one: we now are five, and we now want to stay five nights (Nov. 21, 22, 23, 24, 25). OK? I told my friend that her price of joining the group is bringing one bottle of mighty California zinfandel -- her wine of choice (among others). My wife was ordering our new chickens for the season last night. And we had a rough week in that our dear young dog, Phoebe, came up with a sudden case of pancreatic and liver cancer and had to be euthanized. Probably too much information for a light chat group exchange, but it is on my mind. She was our only "healthy" animal; our three cats and one other dog are all old and a bit rickety already. Ah, the tradeoffs for years of loving friendships --those final days that tear one's soul apart. But I'm not always so depressing! Cheers. Be well and enjoy the off season before all those tourists show. Wait, that's me!

Phil: Where is this place? I can't seem to find it on my map -- north, south , east, west of Asti. How far? Thansk for the help. Cheers

Thanks, Phil, for the insights. It's nice to hear about some new options. I'll have to figure out where this place is when I get some maps in habd. Any information on prices, perhaps? Thanks

One of my favorites, a bit different but really good. No recipe, just wing it. Roasted potatoes, carmelized onions, pesto, pine nuts, bechamel, fresh ricotta, reggiano. Mix and dabble. Goooooood with a capital OOOOOOOOOO. Cheers

I'll keep that in mind because we are going back in June '08 on another cycling trip. We plan to spend five nights in Trento this time. Great hills around that town. Cheers