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Ellen Shapiro

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by Ellen Shapiro

  1. I'm nearing the end of the food photos. I have a few more, and if there are any specific requests I can see if I have something filed away, but I'm going to switch to a few non-food photos for a change of pace. Before the service I wandered around the dining room and took a few snapshots. I figure most people haven't seen the place, given that about 65 people a day eat there out of 5 billion in the world, so this is the general environment. I didn't have any big lights or a wide angle lens, but I hope you can at least get a sense of the place. These are a couple of different banquettes set for
  2. This is the best I can do, John, on account of the limited depth of field in the original.
  3. You're having trouble seeing it because it's underexposed and out of focus, but I posted the photo anyway because I thought it had informational value. Let me do the best I can to get closer in on what you're asking about: As I mentioned, we've now seen this dish in three versions, so I can't be sure, but I think it's all fish. I think the underlayer is a tuna and herb salad based on cooked tuna, and I think the pearly colored thing on top is a piece of raw fish with a little sauce drizzled on it. The dark lines around the edges are very old balsamic vinegar.
  4. This is a fish dish that I found visually striking. It has been described upthread a couple of times. This is the Atlantic bass with clams (the clams are arranged atop) and watercress jus. And this is, if I'm not mistaken, the chestnut and squash soup that was part of a tasting menu.
  5. One more garde manger item before we get back to hot food. This is the way they were putting out the tuna tartare/carpaccio the night I was photographing it. The dish changes, though. The night we had it, it was a big square on a big square plate. Another night when we saw it go out to a table it was round and filled the whole plate. This is the first time I saw it plated with those little chunks of seared tuna.
  6. I really developed a new appreciation for the garde manger function while watching the ADNY crew in action. In a lot of kitchens even ones with a lot of stars the garde manger is "the guy who puts salad on a plate" and "the guy who pulls the pre-molded tuna tartare out of the fridge." This is not at all the way it goes down at ADNY, where the garde manger people are "the ones whose knives are so sharp they can cut a fly in half while it's alive and airborne." Every time they plated up a portion of this foie gras dish ("Terrine of fresh duck foie gras, apples and quinces cooked together") I was
  7. I'll just keep posting photos of ADNY's food and kitchen until somebody tells me to stop or I run out of them, okay? Okay. The garde manger station in the ADNY kitchen has four cooks working at it, and some of the most beautiful dishes coming out of the kitchen come off that station. The garde manger station at ADNY reminded me of a pastry kitchen in terms of the meticulousness of the staff and the precise designs of the plates. This is the dish that Steven and Moby raved about above and I'll add my voice to the chorus: "Variegated scallops, clear Osetra caviar, lemon and olive oil." The white
  8. This is another thing I have to check but I think they are preserved in fat from last season and that the new ones come towards the end of this month.
  9. White truffles aren't the only kind of truffles in use at ADNY. There are also plenty of black ones. Scottish pheasant with vegetables "au pot" is I believe what this dish is called. There was a menu change going on and this was a dish that was on the white truffle menu last week but is now being done in a different variation, this time with a black truffle infused sauce. I will double check the name of the dish later. The dish is a good example of the meticulousness with which the kitchen approaches plating. I hope at least a few customers every night pause to appreciate the amount of work t
  10. M. Satran, I've been in a few dozen restaurant kitchens to take photographs and the ADNY kitchen (and also the kitchens I've seen at Mix and ADPA) is remarkable for the sheer quantity of beautiful things all around you. The challenge for a photographer in most restaurant kitchens is to make it not look like a mess. At ADNY you can photograph anything and it will be very presentable. They are very concerned with aesthetics not only of the presentations of food but also of the way they keep their mise-en-place and all the elements of the kitchen design. There is also a picture window from the di
  11. Before we get off the subject of those creatures, here's a tray of mise-en-place for the ADNY fish station:
  12. Robert, I have some questions for Christian Delouvrier on some other matters so when I call him I will ask about the truffles. Probably later in the week or on the weekend.
  13. Pedro, "carabinero" is how Delouvrier referred to the prawn. I tried to google it but didn't have a good enough guess on the spelling. Thanks for posting that. Moby, I will keep a running list of questions for Delouvrier and call him for answers some time this week or next weekend. I'll try to get a few more photos online this afternoon.
  14. Probably the most oft-repeated quote from Alain Ducasse is his quip that "turbot without genius is better than genius without turbot." Luckily, you don't have to make that choice at ADNY. You can have both. And that's not all you get! You also get white truffles! This is the last of the three white truffle dishes that I was able to photograph (and taste). This is turbot from Brittany "au Champagne" with a Spanish prawn and white truffles. The dish was being served with crayfish Nantua until a few days ago when the supply of good crayfish dried up. The prawn seems so right for the dish, though,
  15. Pedro, sunchokes are very versatile. Like potatoes, they have some flavor of their own but are great vehicles for other flavors. In this dish they were creamy and velvety in the mouth, and had a slight sweetness like squash with a slight earthiness like potatoes. I've had them cooked other ways where they were more sweet and crunchy and they sometimes taste a little like artichoke hearts but not much. This is another truffle menu dish that I was able to photograph while it was being plated on the pass. The truffles are shaved in the dining room at the table, so what you will see here is pre-ad
  16. This is what Ducasse is serving in New York this season.
  17. DutchMuse, as luck would have it I tasted some of the dishes from the white truffle menu last night and, even better, I have photographs. Thinking that perhaps the eGullet crew would enjoy some photographs of the food at ADNY, I arranged to spend a couple of hours in the kitchen last night. Christian Delouvrier and his brigade were very accommodating, allowing me to wander around the kitchen and photograph whatever I wanted. I also got to do some serious snacking. The conditions were somewhat challenging, with a swarm of cooks whirling around me all armed with sizzling skillets and saucepots,
  18. On a visit to see my cousin, who lives on Staten Island, we stumbled upon Philip's after a visit to the used bookstore a few doors down. The place has an old style feel to it -- in a good nostalgic kind of a way. It's not that the chocolate is anywhere near the best I've ever had but the feel of the place is authentic and while a lot of the chocolate selections are candy-bar quality, I asked about alternative options and I was pointed in the direction of the more expensive dark chocolates made with imported French chocolate. I liked the place. But then again, Economy Candy is my favorite candy
  19. I haven't had time yet to process all the photos, but here's our fearless team of (left to right) JosephB, Docsconz, and Fat Guy at the pig farm: And here they are making some gnocchi.
  20. Having met many people from religions whose adherents don't imbibe, I can say from my experience, in general, I've never met anybody who would be offended or made at all uncomfortable by others imbibing in the same room. So I tend to agree that it's just not a problem. I think wnissen, just by starting this topic, has proven that he is a great host! Now, just a quick reminder, we need to talk about food and related issues here, not about religion per se. I know there is overlap -- this is a food-religion-etiquette issue -- but it's a question of emphasis and focus. Here is a link to eGullet's
  21. This is a great topic and I appreciate the responses that have been posted, however I've had to remove several posts that were probably well-intended wisecracks but were off-topic and ran the risk of being seen as disrespectful to the Mormon religion. Please refrain from such comments, and let's get back to the food-culture aspect of this, which is really quite interesting.
  22. We were back at Korin with my brother yesterday. He bought some kind of very expensive knife with a two-tone wood handle. Two Korin updates: There is a 15% off sale for the entire month of July. There is a new catalog out and it is beautiful. Most of the old catalog's content has been preserved but there is now a whole section at the back with comments from many Japanese and Western chefs. Definitely request a copy.
  23. We were in Winnipeg a couple of summers ago and ate well. This account of Fat Guy's eating in Winnipeg might provide some amusement.
  24. New York Burger = just the lettuce and tomato, $5 New York Cheeseburger = with choice of American, bleu, Vt. cheddar, Swiss, or Jack, $5.50 Skyscraper Burgers = double patties, $7 or $7.50 with cheese (All patties are 6 ounces) Chicago Burger = applewood bacon, cheddar, 1000-island, $6.75 Dallas Burger = fire-grilled onions, Jack, BBQ sauce, $5.75 Seattle burger = portabellas, grilled onions, "burger sauce," $6.50
  25. As of yesterday the menu still said "Preview Menu" or something similar so I didn't want to photograph it or post the numbers. Prices are very reasonable in my opinion. Today is the official opening day. Tomorrow I will be in the neighborhood and will try to take notes on the official menu.
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