nickarte

I'm surprised you had such an unpleasant experience at Aguila y Sol; I have found the service quite good, in fact MORE laid back than normal - and I also hate pushy over-zealous service. Give it another try sometime. On the other hand, I find the food at Pujol somewhat pretentious... As for Rojo Bistro and the "not Mexican" idea: While not the international city that NY, Berlin, Prague, etc. are (thank God), our DF does have, and always has had, an element of melting pot cultures (especially French and Spanish) and the "new" Condesa is one of them. Sometimes these "international" places can seem like poor imitations of the originals (as can the "French" bistros in New York as well) but when you live here, they can be a welcome respite from "la tradicional". And some of them, such as Bistro Mosiaco, are quite good on their own merits. Don't get me wrong: my first ten or so years in Mexico I REFUSED to set foot in a non-Mexican restaurant!

Ruth is right! We went this weekend and had a FABULOUS meal! Of course the "ambiente" is more "Polanco-y" but the good news is it's open for dinner... Same menu as the original....specials were a Ceviche Verde and a Merluza in Salsa de Hoja Santa. Also went to Tezka the other day which was great!

I am from Mexico City and have never heard of such a thing....

She's getting suspiciously franchisey....I would stick to the original one.

There is a FANTASTIC new guide book available on Amazon which lists many "low end" ie. real, eating places; it's called: Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveler By Jim Johnston Meanwhile, here are a couple of my favorite places: Mercado de Comidas, Coyoacán A few blocks from central plaza in Coyoacán; there is an outdoor seafood restaurant that is fabulous (look for the long,long tables) but we go for the INCREDIBLE tostada stand inside in the middle- has to be seen to believed-heaping platters of filling- even our friends from Paris were amazed. Coox Hanal Isabel la Catolica 83, 2nd floor, near c/Mesones, (Centro Historico) Incredible Yucatecan food- only for lunch. Try: Sopa de Lima, Panuchos, Pan de Cazon, horchata to drink. Very cheap!

I would add to this list: La Taberna del León Altamirano 46 (in the Plaza Loreto, an old paper factory made into a shopping center, near San Angel) tel.5916-2110 It is a lovely old-house setting with excellent Mexi-Euro dishes that use locally grown ingredients a la Slow food. Puro Corazón Monte de Piedad 11 Up on the roof overlooking the Zocalo, amazing view, very good traditional dishes. Only for comida.

I really meant to add Paxia. Paxia (Av. de la Paz 47) 5550 8355 is a very good choice; I have been several times. Try the Sopes de Cochinita and the Pozole de Mariscos. But don't be tempted by the silly flavored margaritas, they're too sweet, like something I'm sure you can get at home!

Is there a branch of Fonda del Recuerdo in San Angel? The original is in Colonia Veronica Anzures, in a different part of town. ←

And may I add prepared by an authentic (albeit glamorous) Mexican abuela! For those on their way to visit Mexico in the next few weeks, we are in the height of wild mushroom season; a trip to the Mercado San Juan (c/Ernesto Pugibet in the centro) is a must, and you can buy dried morrells which are OK with customs, I have found.

Well, perhaps it is time to do a "Best of Mexico City" list which would then include regional specialties? How about some help on this! ←

We walked by the Appleby's and checked out their menu - it was "American" food of the most revulting variety. Nothing that could even remotely be considered Mexican much less regional. Unless in Chihuahua they claim to have invented "Buffalo wings"...so I don't know what they are talking about.

Although, I must admit, I have not been to Los Almendros, I have tried just about every Yucatecan place in the city and still return to Coox Hanal, Isabel la Catolica 83, 2nd floor, near c/Mesones, (Centro Historico). They are only open mid-day, ie. until 6. Have not been to some of the others and will be doing more research - will let you all know. El Bajio does dishes of that region, ie. Queretaro and Guanajuato etc. , but I don't think exclusively. Those states are not known for their fabulous cuisines, although I think this is arguable.

I looked at the website but it doesn't mention the restaurant opening here; has anyone tried his places? I never heard of the one in New York (the only US city I frequent (and not so often anymore at that). The jury will be OUT until it opens and we have BEEN! But I sure hope it's good, because as Ruth will agree, we need more good restaurants that cater to grown-ups and that aren't in "Mexico denial" here in the Condesa...We Condechis don't like going to Polanco anymore than old-time Greenwich Villagers balked at traveling to the upper-east-side...

Hi Ruth and Nickarte - I'm planning a trip for November and was thinking of staying in the Condesa. I'm having trouble finding hotels — in fact this is the first I've heard of the Hippodrome. Would you recommend the Condesa for tourists? Can you make any hotel recommendations? The Condesa DF is a little out of my price range. Thank you so much. Liz ← Hi Liz - Condesa is a great place for tourists to stay as it is quiet and pretty, convenient to everywhere, lots of places to walk around. I can reccomend the Hotel Roosevelt, located on Insurgentes and Yucatan, a few blocks from Parque Mexico. Insurgentes Sur No. 287, esquina Yucatan Hipodromo Condesa 06100 Ciudad de Mexico, Distrito Federal Ph: +52 (55) 5208-6813 5208-3606 www.hotelroosevelt.com.mx Just make sure you ask for a room on the quiet side... I personally, have a small apartment I rent out, but it won't be available when you are here; for the future, the website is www.huichapan.dreamhosters.com. The rooms are fine, I think a double is about $45 USD.

Thanks Ruth..."fast blood" for the Slow Foodies! I'll be there! I live around the corner from the new hotel, and have been watching the progress of the restoration (for those not from the city, the hotel to which Ruth referes is in an Art Deco apartment house which has been beautifully restored). Can't wait for the opening of the restaurant!

Please let me/us know if there are any more of these trips...as you know from living here, it's hard to get information about anything! I have YET to figure out how to get opera tickets on the day they go on sale...

The best tortas, I think, are at Tortitlán (two branches, one Ancha de San Antonio, the other accross from the San Francisco Church) in San Miguel de Allende! And I live in Mexico City....this is the only food, in fact, that I would rave about in San Miguel! Why are they the best? They just are! I can't put it into words...who do you think I am; Proust?

Tried to do this but nobody returned my email or call; asi es México....

Good tips Ruth; I didn´t know about the second Bajio! Now here´s a tip for you: arriving at the airport, if you walk to the escalators located between "sala C" and "sala D", go up, cross the bridge, and go down on your left, there is a taxi sitio, used by airport employees and those in the know. These are metered cabs and a trip to La Condesa, also my neighborhood, costs around 80-90 pesos! So it is not necesary to take those overpriced ticket taxis.

Where can it be found? Libros y Arte stores? Anywhere in the US? What a market ... cannot wait to get my hands on this book. I've seen it here in Ghandi....I doubt in the US as it is in Spanish but you never know; try Amazon...

A lovely new book has appeared here in Mexico: "Del Mercado A la Mesa: El Mercado de San Juan" (from the market to the table: the San Juan market). For those who don't know, the Mercado San Juan is considered the queen of markets, located in the historic center of Mexico City; it specializes in high quality, imported and exotic foods - from wild mushrooms to armadillos to radichio and, ahem, the occasional raw milk French cheese, unofficially "brought in".... It is a beautiful coffee table type book, with photos, a history of markets in Mexico City, and of the San Juan in particular. Then there are portraits of individual vendors (all my favorites are included) with a recipe provided by each one. The problem and a big one: full page promotional photos of Pepsi cola, obviously a sponsor, are placed throughout and within the text. This abomination, as far as I have seen, has set a new precedent for shameless hucksterism, and I´m sure the author, José Iturriaga, must not be happy, but such is the state of economic affairs relating to culture here, and they undoubtedly had no choice but to make this Faustian decision to get it published (by Landucci, an Italian publisher specializing in art books). It goes for around $45 USD, (despite the ads) and is in Spanish only. I would include photos but I can't for the life of me figure out how....

The best Yucatecan food in Mexico City (and I have tried many places) is: Coox Hanal Isabel la Catolica 83, 2nd floor, near c/Mesones, (Centro Historico) Did anyone mention Pan de Cazón? It is one of my favorite dishes...