ann

This is from the APHIS web site: "As a general rule - if goods are cooked and in shelf-stable (does not require refrigeration) packaging such as cans or other hermetically sealed containers AND they are not from a country affected with various diseases such as Avian influenza, Mad Cow disease, swine fever, etc., they may be admissible... Pate - If cooked and in a hermetically sealed container, maybe - see Matrix. Otherwise - no. Fois Gras - If cooked and in a hermetically sealed container, maybe- see Matrix. Otherwise, no." Of course, the link to the Matrix referred to above doesn't work! So I've e-mailed Customs, which APHIS referred me to, and will post here if I get an answer. BTW, those cute little beagles are now being helped with modern technology. In late October, in Chicago, we cleared Immigration and then Customs as usual, and THEN the USDA had X-ray screeners through which all luggage was put. So don't try to hide those little cans of foie gras!

Since you're clearly into more than just great food, do try to visit Ercolano as well as Pompei - it's smaller and more intimate, and in many ways more enjoyable -- and just 18km away. And here's another vote for Seliano, where the evening meal is a communal affair and fairly basic, but well-prepared with the freshest ingredients and overall a delightful experience. They'll also take you to visit their bufala farm if you're interested.

I would suggest a hotel in Parma and daytrips to small towns like Zibello, where you must eat at La Buca. In Parma, I can recommend Hotel Stendhal, which has a great location, very nice breakfast, and lovely rooms. Parma is a delight, one of our favorite cities in Italy - enjoy!

I can recommend La Toque Blanche in Les-Rosiers-sur-Loire, about 15 km west of Saumur -- its phone is (or at least was) 02.41.51.80.75. We ate there several years ago and it was so good we returned a couple of nights later.

Marlena, could it be the Locanda della Signorina, in Spoleto? It's on our list for October - I read about in a New York Times article.

Gruyere, Dale is absolutely right. You will find a wealth of info at SlowTrav, including reviews of vacation rentals in Tuscany broken down into specific regions. And if you have questions, the folks at SlowTalk are especially knowledgeable about Italy and vacation rentals.

La Toque Blance is an excellent suggestion -- we ate there several years ago and it was so good we returned a couple of nights later. It's in Les-Rosiers-sur-Loire, about 15 km west of Saumur, and its phone is (or at least was) 02.41.51.80.75

Vmilor, we rented Politian Apartment #1 at the top of Montepulciano for well under 100€/night. It's a delightful, spacious apartment with a working fireplace, and is available for less than a week off-season. Parking is right outside the apartment, and Giacomo Stuart, the owner, is a pleasure to deal with.

I definitely think that it's time for you to return, Eric. And I'll let you know whether you should go to A Choupana. A post in another forum described it as a "great find!" - a very local, very small dining room with excellent food. Since we'll be in Évora 4 nights, we'll have time to try both it and Fialho.

Thank you both - again! A birthday every day for a month - I hadn't thought of that, Miguel. And Eric, could the "joint" in Évora possibly be O Antão?

We leave at the end of September for 4 weeks in Portugal (okay, 26 nights to be exact), and I'd first like to thank Miguel, Chloe, Eric, Fred, and all the others whose posts have provided me with a wealth of information about food and restaurants in Portugal. I've also learned that Portugal is the home of some very good but under-appreciated wines like those of Joao Portugal Ramos's winery near Estremoz. I've read Wine Spectator's recent article on the reds from the Duoro, but I'd love to get some suggestions for other parts of Portugal. Thanks in advance. PS Any restaurant recommendations in Viana do Castelo and Evora would also be very welcome. I have a list but no personal recommendations.

For John and Zoe, we had a memorable meal in Dijon at Stephane Derbord: http://www.restaurantstephanederbord.fr/ Although it does have a Michelin star, there is a reasonable lunch menu, and a wonderful wine list.

Casting, the other restaurant in Gigondas is L'Oustalet -- very easy to find since it's right on the town square, with the added advantage of being just a couple of doors from the Gigondas caveau with its good selection of many Gigondas for tasting.

We didn't get a chance to try Le Mas Tourteron in the tiny village of Les Imberts, very near Gordes, this past May, but it came very highly recommended (04-90-72-00-16).

We had an excellent lunch at Diva e Maceo, but I wouldn't recommend Le Logge del Vignola to someone on a limited budget. It's much pricier, as I recall, and its attempt at creative rather than traditional cuisine was not always successful, at least on the evening we were there.

The restaurant most frequented by locals in Montepulciano is l'Osteria Acquacheta, via del Teatro 22 (at the top of MP), 0578 71.70.86, with an incredible bistecca fiorentina cooked the old-fashioned way -- don't miss it, and be sure to make reservations! I completely agree about La Porta -- its address is Via del Piano 3. And if you get as far as Montalcino, I'd recommend Il Grappolo Blu for a great lunch -- Scale di Via Moglio 1; phone 0577 84.71.50. Have fun -- I think you've picked the best part of Tuscany.

We spent 4 days in Bologna last fall, and I recommend both Da Cesari, via dé Carbonesi 8 (tel 051.226.769) and Trattoria Gianni, via Clavature 18 (tel 051.229.434). Try the wines of Fattoria Zerbina, probably the best of the region.

The term "rosé" is also used with lamb, as well as game and organ meats.

There's a short article in the March issue of Food & Wine about Puglia, with restaurant recommendations.

John, have you found any old favorites that still merit a return, or any new ones, on this trip? I'd love your input before we leave tomorrow. Thanks and aloha.

I want to second Gavin's thanks -- I've enjoyed your reports and found them very useful in helping to plan our week in Paris in May.

Margaret, thank you for this recommendation. Although I'm not sure I will be thanking you after a week in Paris -- the apartment we rent is on the rue des Grands Degres, and if the ice cream is half as good as you describe, I won't be able to pass it up every time we pass by!

A Paris mais en France. Because the rule is that "à" is used with the names of cities and countries which are masculine while "en" is used with countries which are feminine. At least this is what I remember from my college French.

Menton1, is your recommendation easily available in Paris? Thanks for the help.

If you do a search for l'Affriole here, you'll find several negative comments ranging from 2002 to 2004. I think they concern the food more than the service, although I think I remember concerns about both.