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markk

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Posts posted by markk

  1. I've been getting "heirloom" tomatoes with intense, incredible flavor at the farmers market in Hoboken (NJ) which is every Tuesday. They're "brandywine" variety, and they're rich with sweet tomato flavor. (They may be too sweet and low in acidity for some, I don't know.) The grower is Melick's Town Farm in Oldwick, NJ, and I've been enjoying their tomatoes for years. Last year, I thought their "purple cherokee" were even more delicious, but they tell me it was a small yield and they're not bringing them this year. I've had other tomatoes this year that were disappointing, but not from this stand in Hoboken. So they do exist.

    But what the devil is happening with Cantaloupes? I buy melons that smell obscenely ripe and sweet from all the farmers (at 2 markets, Hoboken and Newport Jersey City), and they even smell fabulous when you cut them open, and they have no flavor!

  2. Oooh - you'll get a delicious braise or stew! Brown it nicely on all sides, deglaze with some white wine and whatever else you're thinking of - I'd suggest some sauteed mushrooms and a little bit of sauteed onions, and some garlic - things that would go with the flavor of a reduced veal stock anyway - and let it braise or stew away. And something like fresh thyme and or rosemary. And tomatoes (though not too many) would also work wonderfully. You're aiming for a nice tender piece of falling off the bone meat, and a dark, syrupy glaze.

  3. Assuming you are a foodie, and your son takes after you, he probably won't appreciate McDonald's for very long. 

    Ooh, I don't know about that. I mean the word "appreciate". Yeah, McDonalds went through a couple of years when the food was re-heated disgustingness, but when you get a fresh hamburger, they are great. I'm a foodie, and I love the taste of a lot of McDonald's items, and other fast, junky food. But for health and diet reasons, I don't let myself indulge that often. Now, I divert my always-at-the ready desire for a Black Angus Bacon Burger to the local sushi joint. And I save fast food for a treat. (And it really p-sses me off when I get an old, stale burger or something - when I have it, I want one of the fresh, bursting with grease ones.)

  4. The fast-food places that aim at children's repeat business offer not only desirable prizes with the food but also a free-form socialization that does not occur in as many places as it used to here.

    In my neighborhood, in the early evening, I see tons of mothers with their young ones stopping off at McDonalds for an early dinner, and of course it's an easy way to get the kid fed after his after school activities on the way home to change him for bed.

    At mid-day and after school, I see the McDonalds full of 14-15-16-17-18 year olds kids who gather there for lunch and socialization on a daily basis.

    Whether or not they were the kids who started there in their early years, or just picked it up for the jr. high and high-school years, that pattern puts a lot of bad eating habits, and many years of bad nutrition such as excessive cholesterol, saturated fat, and sodium, into these kids.

  5. What I found to be most amazing thing about Michy's was the service. There was almost as many servers as there were tables when I was there. We counted 11 servers at one point!

    Michelle is a warm and loving person, and all the servers love her. They also have a respect for her talent that borders on awe, but the whole place is like a mutual love-fest. It's a refreshing and winning combination.

  6. I don't really understand it myself, but isn't chow mein more of what we think of as pan-fried noodles?

    I'm sure somebody with actual knowledge can do better, but since I'm here I'll tell you what I think I know about this issue. Many of the menu-words for Chinese dishes that we use in North America are utterly confused and bear little relationship to correct Chinese. There's also a lot of confusion between the names of ingredients and the names of dishes. As far as I know "chow" means fried and "mein" means wheat noodles. For its part, I believe "lo" means tossed. This is, at least, what a number of Chinese people have told me is the case (mind you we're only talking about the Cantonese dialect here).

    Needless to say, the term "fried" (aka "chow") doesn't offer a particularly high degree of specificity. It can be taken to mean stir-fried, or deep-fried. Thus, regional variations -- as well as variations from restaurant to restaurant -- have sprung up here in North America. There is also overlap between the stir-fried meaning of chow and the tossed meaning of lo. So what we call lo mein here on the East Coast can be pretty much the same thing they call chow mein on the West Coast, whereas what we call chow mein here in the East may use deep fried noodles. In Canada I've seen a whole bunch of wildly different dishes called "chow mein."

    "Fun" I believe refers to rice noodles (though it also seems to encompass mung bean noodles). But even if rice noodles can be assumed, "chow fun" is an incomplete description of a dish because it just means fried rice noodles. The "chow ho fun" description is more correct, because the ho fun are the wide flat ones while the mee fun are the angel-hair ones. So "chow ho fun" and "chow mee fun" make the most sense, however things have evolved on a lot of Chinese menus such that the two dishes are "chow fun" and "mee fun" and you're just supposed to know that chow fun implies the wide noodles. Incidentally, I remember back when the Chinese place we ate at added mee fun to the menu. The menu description at that time was simply "fried rice noodles," and there was only the angel-hair option. The wide ho fun noodles came years later.

    There are also about a million other Chinese noodles out there, like e-fu noodles, which are fried and then boiled -- yes, fried then boiled.

    Hope I didn't get that all too terribly wrong.

    I don't know if you got that right or wrong myself, but to add to the confusion, I had (or tried to have) this discussion a few years ago with an English speaking young Chinese woman in a Chinatown restaurant, stemming from a seafood dish served over yellowish noodles bound up in that thick, gummy sauce that usually binds them, and she thought about my question, i.e. frustration over not understanding noodle nomenclature, and explained to me that "mein" meant 'egg noodles', which was why anything 'mein' was always yellow and spongy soft. So I left that discussion more confused than ever.

  7. Jews who eat shellfish and pork? I guess you mean non-practicing Jews, or maybe I'm ignorant of a special day when you can eat anything you want?

    Another odd noodle-thing: I grew up in Northern CA and was raised on "chow mein" noodles. When I moved out to the East Coast, I found out that "chow mein" were the crispy little fried noodles and that what I had grown up eating were lo mein noodles. Did anyone else have this experience.

    I grew up thinking (incorrectly) from what was served that chow mein was a gooey vegetable dish with crispy fried noodle things on top. Well, isn't that what comes in the two separate cans that make up the Chung King (or La Choy) chow mein?

    I don't really understand it myself, but isn't chow mein more of what we think of as pan-fried noodles?

    And a side note: when I was in London I used to take out from a fabulous down and dirty noodle place, and one day I mentioned that the pan fried noodles were always a little burned. An elderly Chinese man who appeared from the shadows (just like in the movies) said "tastes better that way". And since then, I've seen the term "Partially burned noodles" on menus in Chinatown. Has anybody else had experience with this as well?

  8. Jews who eat shellfish and pork? I guess you mean non-practicing Jews, or maybe I'm ignorant of a special day when you can eat anything you want?

    I hadn't meant to start anything religious, or have that discussion here. I just meant "Jews" like me, and Jason, and the many, many (many) others who eat pork and shellfish, especially at Chinese restaurants. I'm sorry if I offended your religious beliefs - this was meant to be a light-hearted trip down culinary memory lane, and nothing more.

  9. This thread was certainly inspired by the Pu Pu Platter thread, and the links to all the Polynesian-themed Chinese restaurants of yore got me to thinking...

    As Jason Perlow documented so wonderfully in his King Yum thread many years ago, the traditional Chinese dinner for many of us was Egg Rolls, Spare Ribs, Fried Rice, and of course Shrimp in Lobster sauce

    kingyum13.jpg

    kingyum21.jpg

    kingyum22.jpg

    (The thread's here by the way.)

    Well, that's certainly the meal my family ate every week of my life from as far back in childhood as I can remember, until I went away to college. But several years ago I was talking to a Jewish friend who also grew up in the 1950's, and he talked about having Chow Fun as a kid.

    Chow Fun? I never had, or heard of that until I was in my 30's.

    Are there any other Jewish people (or even not) who grew up on the Polynesian-American egg roll, spare rib, fried rice, and shrimp in lobster sauce meal who remember eating chow fun back then with their families?

  10. Ah, thanks for the trip down memory lane.

    When I was out of college and back in the NYC area, my friends and I used to go to the Jade Fountain in Lyndurst as well, and indeed we used to get the Pu Pu Platter, because apparently it had been a family tradition for one member of our group.

    But in my youth, my family's Chinese restaurant (read: Chinese-American/Polynesian) was none other than King Yum, in Fresh Meadows, Queens, and we definitely did not have the Pu Pu Platter - we ordered our spare ribs and egg rolls separately, although of course we had them as part of the Family Dinner (one from Column A and one from Column B, you know).

  11. I believe in Molto Italiano Batali has a recipe for oxtails in which you braise them, then remove the meat from the bones and recrisp it. I'll have to check when I get home to see if I'm imagining things.

    I have definitely had oxtail meat that's been removed from the bone and shaped into a patty with or without something else and crisped - sometimes successfully, sometimes not. (Not from or by Batali, either.)

  12. I've lived for a few months here and there overseas, and have had to do my supermarketing in Germany and France and have negotiated my way around problems with sign language when necessary. The only insurmountable problem I had with the language (I'm a born and raised American) was when I lived in London! I had to make a business trip way up North, so I called Hertz to reserve a car for the next day. The woman told me, "I'm afraid the only car we have available is an Estate Car." I had no idea what that was, and said so. She tried to explain that it was, "well, you know, and Estate Car." So I asked if I'd have to pay any inheritance taxes, and she said "no", but she assured me I could drive it up north, and after quite a while (it went on for some time), I reserved it; when I got there the next day, I discovered it was a Station Wagon. And I'd have to say that of all my travels in France, Germany, and Italy, that's the worst language problem I've ever had.

  13. So I bring home a third of a pound of good deli pastrami.  It's not warm.  How would you warm it, quickly but gently, to achieve a hot pastrami sandwich in the comfort of your own kitchen?

    I always wrap it in aluminum foil, sprinkle a tiny bit of water over it, fold it up tight, and put it in a warm oven for a while. Or, you could steam it gently by putting it on a plate or bowl and placing that in the steamer.

  14. One thing I've noticed about pantries is that, while some people make great use of them, most people just let a lot of junk accumulate -- junk they don't need, never use and eventually discard. I guess it depends on how rigorous and organized someone is, but I know for sure that most people don't benefit from more kitchen storage space. They may love it, but the benefits are illusory. Having less space -- not zero space, but a reasonable amount -- helps limit accumulation and waste, not just of food but also of equipment, paper goods, cleaning products, etc.

    In addition to 1- better availability of fresh foods, and 2- more meals eaten out or based on prepared products, another factor in the demise of the pantry is 3- families getting smaller. When you have three or four kids, a pantry becomes essential because you need to stock your home like a restaurant. When you have one kid, or none, you don't need that kind of inventory unless you're all the way at the end of the bell curve in terms of how much you entertain and the level at which you operate in the kitchen.

    Well, I agree with all of that, but...

    I live in a huge apartment with more closets than I could ever have imagined, and I've taken the hallway closet that's right outside my kitchen entranceway (presumably it was a coat closet, but I have tons more on the other side), and turned it into a pantry. It's a good 5' x 5', and I've filled it with adjustable shelves floor to ceiling, and it holds tons.

    The point of this was that I find that there are non-perishable ingredients that I like that only come from certain places, and late in life I caught the brains to stock-up on these things (a brand of pasta from one store, a sherry vinegar from another) when I shop, and my pantry holds all that stuff. And because I made the highest shelf really tall, it holds things like blenders and extra food processors. So for me the inventory saves me a lot of running around. And truth be told, I keep a few sets of dinnerware in there as well.

  15. Yes, the pasta was perfect, and the dish was clean and fresh and definitely not heavy. But then, that's Michelle's specialty.

    I don't want to build the place up too much for people who haven't been there (though there's clearly a consensus on the thread that people who have been there love it), but after so many meals, and so many dishes there on several trips, I can pretty safely say for myself that part of her genius is the invention of the dishes, the combinations of ingredients, and the other part is that they're always executed perfectly - there are no misses in execution, no dishes that fall short of the mark, and that's what makes it such a treat to keep returning to.

  16. With the exception of the chicken feet which Michelle made as a special treat for us (story follows immediately), everything shown above is either a menu item or was a daily special.

    We had hoped to have more meals there, but one night an emergency power failure forced them to close and call all their customers not to come, and then two days later was their regular closing, Monday. So we extended our stay to have some more meals there, not realizing (because we were too stupid to ask) that they were one of the many restaurants closing for July 4. So on our final night there Michelle, who is a genuine sweetheart, took pity on us and went out of her way to make a few special things for us to make up for the missed meals. Those photos are coming.

    Here are a few more regular menu items:

    Crispy Duck Confit, Shaved Brussel Sprouts, Mustard Aioli:

    gallery_11181_4845_76385.jpg

    "Shell Free" Summer Clam Linguine; Assorted Clams, Fennel, White Wine, Garlic, Crème Fraîche, Fresh Clam Broth:

    gallery_11181_4845_4665.jpg

    and of course the famous Truffled Polenta with Poached Egg and Crispy Bacon:

    gallery_11181_4845_85066.jpg

  17. It was extremely delicious - it had a fabulous flavor (brought out by having been grilled to perfection with the head on), and it had the texture of perfectly cooked lobster.

    It actually was served to us at Timo Restaurant in Sunny Isles, Florida, but I do not think that it's a local item. The steak under it was wood grilled, and the sauce was a concoction with truffle and a bit of foie gras, and it was a winning combination - one that was not on the menu, but offered by our waiter when we couldn't decide between the steak or the "prawn" risotto.

  18. Well, I'm back from ten nights in Miami, and 7 dinners at Michy's, and here are a few photos to start, and I'll be posting the rest shortly...

    Bear in mind that most things come in full and half portions so that you can create your own tasting menu, and/or get things for the table and just pig out... though at our table there's no sharing of Foie Gras, for sure...

    Seared Foie Gras with Corn Pancake, Roasted Corn, and Savoury Maple Syrup:

    gallery_11181_4845_98409.jpg

    Another night's Foie Gras:

    gallery_11181_4845_33297.jpg

    A not-on-the menu special treat of stewed chicken feet:

    gallery_11181_4845_41280.jpg

    Crispy Sweetbreads with Braised Pork Jowls, Jason's BBQ Sauce, and Fava Beans:

    gallery_11181_4845_100101.jpg

    Orechiette Pasta with Duck Sausage, Loxahatchee Greens, Tomatoes, Chiles, Pecorino Romano, and Herbed Ricotta:

    gallery_11181_4845_33995.jpg

    A mind-boggling Bouillabaisse:

    gallery_11181_4845_41340.jpg

    Three plates on the table at once - "Blue cheese, shredded duck, and Jamon Croquettas", sharing the table with “Carbonara My Way with Peas, St. Andre Cheese, and Crispy Pancetta”, and "Beet Salad with Spanish Blue Espuma, Candied Walnuts, and Citrus Vinaigrette":

    gallery_11181_4845_30876.jpg

    Soft Shell Crabs on a Salad of Arugula, Red Onion, Tomatoes, and Watermelon:

    gallery_11181_4845_83599.jpg

    Sauteed Skate with Capers over an Artichoke Stew:

    gallery_11181_4845_1431.jpg

    There are many dishes to go, and I'll post them shortly.

  19. Last night's Michy's dinner consisted of a truly spectacular sauteed foie gras with a corn pancake and savoury maple syrup, a softshell crab preparation that wasn't as spectacular as the previous one, and a sauteed skate special with artichoke stew that really was out of this world.

    They were closed tonight, but I'l be back tomorrow for one last meal there.

  20. I'm in Miami, and wanted to report that Michy's is going strong, and that I'll soon have lots of photos to post.

    The stupendous dishes we've had so far:

    Beet Salad (Roasted and Raw);

    Blue Cheese, Shredded Duck,and Jamon Croquetas;

    Truffled Polenta with Poached Egg and Crispy Bacon;

    House Duck Confit;

    Crispy Sweetbreads with Braised Pork Jowls;

    Orechiette Pasta with duck sausage, Loxahatchee Greens, Tomatoes, Chiles, Pecorino Romano, and Herbed Ricotta;

    Linguine Carbonara with St. Andre Cheese and crispy Pancetta;

    "Shell Free" Summer Clam Linguine - Assorted clams, fennel, white wine, garlic, creme fraiche;

    Short Ribs Falling off the Bone;

    "Table-Top Picnic" (Crispy fried organic farm raised young chicken, Cole Slaw, Gravy"

    and a special, Soft Shell Crab, which was served on a fabulous salad of arugula, tomato, and onion, with watermelon as well!

    And as I was composing this message, my cell phone rang, and it was Michy's calling to tell me that the construction in front of the restaurant on US1 had just caused the power to go out, and they had no choice but to close the restaurant and call all of tonight's remaining reservations to cancel them. They were saving me softshell crabs again for tonight, so now I'm really upset - and it's Saturday night, and I don't have a place to eat!

  21. I've had mixed results.

    Some years ago there was somebody who bottled a Pasta Sauce entirely without sugar (cannot remember the brand) - it was one in their line of pasta sauces. Within a year or so it disappeared from the shelves, and the stores told me it was discontinued. So I called the manufacturer to complain. And the woman said basically, "Well, personally I agree with you completely - I think that overly-sugared tomato sauces are disgusting, but.... I have to tell you that apparently most of the American shopping public doesn't agree with us - that one sauce sold 1/10th of what our other sauces sold, and we had to discontinue it, unfortunately." She did offer, and did send me, many coupons to try their other sauces, though I didn't use them after reading the labels.

    Then there was the time I contacted ShopRite supermarkets (it's a thread somewhere here) because I bought a container of Cherry Juice from Bulgaria, and when I got home and looked up the ingredients (listed as "e-numbers" in Europe), I found that 2 of them were substances banned in the US for health reasons. So I wrote to ShopRite from its website to say what had happened, and that I wanted to know how they could possibly be purchasing and re-selling foods with banned, illegal additives, and an agent wrote back "We'd like you to know that we maintain quality control programs to insure that our customers receive high quality programs at all times.. Providing our customers wth wholesome foods is a high priority for staff at ShopRite. We want to assure you that our buyers and Quality Assurance staff continually monitor the products we offer for our customers to ensure they comply with Federal Regulations."

    And I replied that only an idiot could have sent me that response, as I had just reported purchasing an item that most certainly did not comply with Federal Regulations at all. (I found this episode completely unacceptable and lost confidence in shopping there.)

    Primarily though, when I report unsatisfactory product purchases, they send me lots of coupons, telling me they're sure that the one I got was a fluke, and inviting me to try them again at not cost, which is fair enough.

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