mikeycook
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Posts posted by mikeycook
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I have not made this dish, but have probably made 1/3 to 1/2 of the dishes from the book, so I would definitely consider it worth trying.
I think I'm going on Fresh Direct and getting myself some kidneys today.
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For chops, I like to do the same method I would for a steak (like Cote de Boeuf). Get as good a sear as you can for 1-2 minutes on each side, then finish in a very hot oven (as good cast iron skillet works best for me). I have gone even lower in temperature (140 F near the bone) with fine results.
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The classic version that I am most familiar with is with a mustard sauce. I am pretty sure it's in Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles cookbook (as well as Escoffier, I am sure).
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I would definitely try to pick up some pork belly and make that. I am a huge pork fan and nothing (IMHO) beats a well-made belly dish. I have made the recipe in Scott Conant's New Italian Cooking, but I am sure there are other good ones.
Oh, and I think "Porgie" might be the better term, to avoid confusion with the fish.
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Based on the overall favorable reviews we have seen in numerous sources (including eGullet), my wife and I chose Annisa for our anniversary this year (6th). Has anyone been recently? Is there anything on the menu now that is particularly recommended?
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Kerry, I'd love to try the nougat recipe, thanks for posting it. Question -- is there any substitute you can recommend for the edible rice paper? Will heavy, coated parchment work, or will I be picking pieces of paper out of my candies?
I'd probably butter the parchment to make it easier to peel off. Let us know how it works.
In my experience, the parchment has to be coated with something or it will stick terribly. Butter or canola oil or even (God forbid) Pam will do the trick.
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I grew up in New England and was not familiar with Red Velvet Cake until I saw Cake Man Raven making one on TV (either on Martha's show or Sara Moulton's... can't remember). I bought one last Thanksgiving and really liked it. It was very moist and very flavorful. Interestingly, it had enough of a chocolate taste to be liked by the chocoholics in the family, but not so much that those who resist chocolate didn't like it. Subsequently, I found they sell Red Velvet Cupcakes at Ruthy's in Chelsea Market which are also delicious.
My general experience has been that if someone makes good cakes they make good cakes. Period. If I like one type of cake from a bakery, I am likely to like their other cakes as well (assuming the flavor is something I like). This is has been my experience 90+% of the time. My assumption is that these bakeries are generally consistent in some overall points across all of their cakes, such as levels of sweetness, moisture, etc.
Also, Cake Man Raven puts his recipe on his web site if anyone is interested in yet another recipe.
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Definately a sticking issue. That stuff sticks to everything. I suppose you could do something similar to marshmallow where you use cornstarch to prevent sticking, or as Alana suggests on cello. I used the rice paper circular wafers called oblaten once, just mounded some on each then dipped the bottoms in chocolate. The rice paper kind of disappears that way and you don't really notice it.
I suppose the rice paper does allow a uniform thickness also that would be hard to obtain any other way.
You can also use just a little bit of canola oil to prevent sticking. Very little, though, as more than a little makes them feel greasy. A very small bit gets absorbed into the nougat and greatly reduces the tackiness (which, I have come to understand, the honey is to blame for).
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Gascogne - We rented out the back for my wife's birthday a few years ago. One of my best outdoor dining memories every.
Da Nico - Not my favorite for food, but the back area is huge and very relaxing for an early-evening summer meal.
Boathouse in Central Park - We almost considered having our wedding here but balked because you needed to ship in air conditioning. Definitely better to avoid in the hotter months as the water is stagnant.
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We order in a lot, so it's hard to separate in my mind places we order from and enjoy and whether we would seek them out if we lived elsewhere. Unfortunately, this has eliminated Otto, Borgo Antico, and Republic from my list, although I always look forward to the food from all 3. Anywhere, here are the others I thought of:
Nha Trang - I'm good for a lunch here about every six weeks. Delicious and cheap. My favorite Vietnamese place in the city.
Ess-a Bagel - Used to walk 1/2 mile out of my way on the way to work for an Ess-a Bagel. When I found out that my new office was only a block away from the 3rd street location, my diet took a huge detour.
L'Impero - I hope this isn't breaking the rules, but I do not consider this super luxe or special occasion dining (although I have been for special occasions). Following the guidelines in Fat Guy's book, I have tried to make this my regular place. The $65 prix fixe is a great value and cheap enough that I can get there every couple of months.
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There were a number of places I could post this, but thought I'd dust of this thread.
My wife and I went to L'Impero Friday night with a couple of friends and were extremely pleased yet again. There were some new dishes on the menu as well as old favorites and we tried a variety of both.
Of the four of us, three had the prix fixe. The other guest, who claimed not to have a large appetite, ordered just an entree and shared some of our other dishes. This worked out fortuitously, as she chose the one gem that is not on the prix fixe, the oxtail and black truffle risotto.
Appetizers
Marinated Pacific Yellowtail, sea salt, olio di zenzero and red onion
We all had some of this. This is one of my favorite ways to have tuna, although it has to be done very delicately because a little too much salt can quickly overpower the disk. Nevertheless, the ginger oil and peperoncino oil are nice compliments to the richness of the tuna.
Puree of Asparagus and Mussel Soup, potatoes and toasted ciabatta
As you can probably guess, only the asparagus is pureed, not the mussels, which were very plump. Their brininess complimented the asparagus well, or at least so I was told as my wife guarded her soup. Definitely something she would order again.
Fricassee of Seasonal Mushrooms, creamy polenta and truffle reduction
Impossible to give this dish more kudos that it has already received. The polenta here is as good as I've had anywhere and wild mushrooms with truffle reduction are a no brainer. Excellent yet again.
Crispy Sweetbread Fricassee, spring vegetables and truffled spinach puree
This was my starter (a new dish) and it was delicious. My only caution in recommending it is that it is really more of a salad, not a large chuck on cripsy sweetbreads (it is small pieces). The overall texture and flavor of the dish was excellent, although I did, at time, wishing for a large single piece of sweetbreads instead.
As good as all the appetizers were, the mushrooms, again, were the standout.
Pastas
Although there are very good appetizers and entrees at L'Impero, it is the pastas that leave the longest memory.
House Made Tajarin, braised lumache, asparagus, porcini and basil
A couple of years ago had a Yukon gold potato gnocchi at L'Impero that had both lumache and porcini that we thought was excellent, so I had to try this new one. Although not my favorite L'Impero pasta, this is an excellent combination and left my plate very quickly.
House Made Fontina Raviolini, truffle reduction and parmigiano
Of all of the new dishes on the menu, this was a greatest revelation. A very simple dish that makes a huge impression. This seems to have replaced the Veal and Truffle Raviolini from the winter menu and is much better (I found the veal raviolinis a little salty). Each raviolini is a burst of truffle essence, which explodes in your mouth and runs down the back of your throat. Extremely hedonistic. I was only able to pry two off my wife's plate and will have to place an order of my own next time. This is destined to be a classic pasta at L'Impero.
Duck and Foie Gras Agnolotti, moscato passito di sardegna reduction
Along with the mushrooms, another signature dish, always pleasing. While I ordered the Tajarin for myself, I couldn't imagine taking someone here and not having them taste the agnolotti, so we ordered one for the table. A big crowd pleaser as always. The only problem is that the simple addition of a few agnolotti seemed to make the difference between a meal of just the right size and an incredibly filling meal. Not a bad way to go, I guess. In any case, this dish always seems to make it onto our table in some way when we visit.
House Made Pappardelle, rabbit ragu, parsnips, mint and pignoli
This is the one pasta dish that had always eluded me and, thank god, one of our companions ordered it. Between L'Impero and Alto I have had a few excellent rabbit dishes. This was a hearty pasta with great flavor. The ragu of rabbit with mint and pignoli could be eaten on its own but was especially good with papparedelle. I will have to get a plate of this for myself at some point as well.
Entrees
Oxtail and Black Truffle Risotto, caramelized onion and parmigiano
For a while, L'Impero had an Oxtail Risotto on the menu that I had wanted to order, but it was one of two dishes that were not part of the Prix Fixe. On New Year's Eve, they switched it to a Black Truffle Risotto and I had it. Very good, but not unlike other black truffle risottos I have had. Combining the two was definitely the right move. The rich mound of oxtail surrounded by a black truffle risotto was outstanding. I hope it stays on the menu for years to come.
Slow Roasted Veal Chop, root vegetable and chestnut stufato
My wife's entree, I was only able to have a couple of bites, but it was perfectly cooked, although on a large Flintstones-type bone. My only objection was the $18 surcharge for the prix fixe, but it was excellent and at least one of us had to order it.
Spice Roasted Free-Range Chicken, creamy polenta, currants, almonds and fegato sauce
I wanted to pick something new for an entree that was not fish and not something ordered by another and I chose the chicken. The fegato sauce is like a loose pate. Combined with the excellent polenta (a fried square), this is one of the best chicken dishes I have had in a long time. Its flavors were more muted when compared with some of the other dishes, but after some water and wine to cleanse my palate, it was thoroughly enjoyable. The various rich ingredients combine to make a thoroughly comforting whole.
Moist Roasted Vermont Capretto, artichoke and potato 'groestle'
The capretto was the first entree I ever ordered at L'Impero and at the time I thought it could have been more flavorful. However, this dish was much better than I had remembered, or it has been changed slightly. I will definitely order this as an entree in the near future.
Overall Best Dishes - Fontina Raviolini, Duck/Foie Gras Agnolotti, Fricasee of Mushrooms, Oxtail/Black Truffle Risotto, Capretto
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The downside: I ordered pennette in red sauce for the kids - and was shocked that it arrived still crunchy. My younger guy ate it without too much fuss but the older one definitely noticed it was under-cooked. I keep kicking myself for not sending it back as soon as I realized what was up - one of those moments I wish I could undo. I take enormous care in the food I personally prepare for my little guys and knowing I would not have eaten the dish myself, I absolutely should have spoken up.
Why didn't I? Well, hungry kids, past their bedtime, had been up since 4am to catch two planes, and I didn't imagine they'd have the patience to wait for a new batch... still, no excuse.
Funny you mention the pennette. I had it the same way my last time at Lupa (Pennette w/Cacio & Peppe). Does anyone know if this is intentional? I definitely found it unpleasant.
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[...]That being said, I would completely agree that most of the places mentioned, save maybe Roberto's and Lupa, is trying to do Italian as you would get it in Italy. That being said, if you really want that, I say go to Italy.[...]
Going to Italy is rather more expensive and time-consuming than going to an Italian restaurant in New York. And if we extrapolated that advice, we'd be going to Japan for our Japanese meals, Chengdu for Sichuan, Palestine for felafel...
Sure, it's a great idea if you have the time and money. Otherwise, let's stick to what's best here.
I see your point. I guess my point is that "authenticity" is not the best method of choosing an Italian restaurant in New York, as very little is truly authentic. That also rules out a lot of wonderful chef-driven restaurants that provide interesting cuisine that would still be called "Italian". To your point, stick to what's best, and that is not necessarily what is authentic.
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I have gotten good cakes from Ruthy's in Chelsea Market. Have bought several, all of which have been very well received.
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I would personally vote for L'Impero over the others. Of those mentioned, I have been to Alto, Lupa, Babbo, and Roberto's.
That being said, I would completely agree that most of the places mentioned, save maybe Roberto's and Lupa, is trying to do Italian as you would get it in Italy. That being said, if you really want that, I say go to Italy.
The others are really chef-driven and I personally find L'Impero the most satisfying (I would almost call it French-Italian fusion, but others may disagree). Have been about 6 or 7 times (again at the end of the month) and have yet to be disappointed. Babbo and Alto are both very solid as well, IMHO.
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We are visiting from New York and have a reservation for Monday, March 5th. However, I am one of the few in my party who will be eating an extensive amount of offal (other than more "mainstream" offal like sweetbreads, which most members of our party will eat). Are the non-offal options good or would someone eating some of the more "standard" items be disappointed?
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I also forgot to mention, the little fennel salad antipasti/ amuse was very good. Bright clean fennel taste, coupled with silky anchovies and olive oil. tasty.
Oh, I forgot. I liked that very much as well.
Maybe the aioli was poorly done the night you were there. Or maybe they made it last minute and didn't give the flavors time to meld? Mine definitely had a good, strong garlic flavor, but, as you noted, it was kind of glopped on top.
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The Andres book has a recipe for spinach with apples, raisins, and pine nuts that is excellent. I had it at Jaleo a few months ago and then made it at home. What's nice is that a lot of times spinach dishes seem to get cold rather quickly. However, the heat of the apples, raisins, and pine nuts keeps the spinach at a good temperature for a while.
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I'd like those of you who feel the food isn't subtle enough at Babbo to please tell me whether you're referring to oversalting, because if that isn't the problem, I'll probably like the "excess" of taste. I certainly like Lupa! An excess of subtlety is more likely to annoy me than tastes that sock me right in the kisser, as long as those tastes are good.
The only dish I felt was oversalted was the beef cheek ravioli, but that might have been just that night (and it was a long time ago). Other than that, I really enjoyed the tastes at Babbo.
I do have a question, though. I haven't had the goose liver ravioli, but I was curious... is it made with foie gras (i.e. foie d'oie) or is it made with a basic unfattened liver? I wasn't sure if it was referred to simply as goose liver because it was not foie gras or because Babbo didn't want to use a french term on the menu.
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Whenever I watch his shows, he seems to say the word "authentic" repeatedly and goes to lengths to show how Italian cuisine is different (i.e. better) than French cuisine. After reading the Babbo web site, though, I must admit I was wrong.
As he says, "As a Tuscan cooks in Chianti, as a Neapolitan cooks on the Amalfi coast, as a Sicilian cooks in Pantelleria, at Babbo we cook as an Italian might in the Mid-Atlantic/Hudson Valley region."
I stand corrected.
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Personally, I think the emphasis on being "authentic" is way over-blown. If I want authentic Italian food, I will go to Italy. I do not generally judge a restaurant on how authentic it is, unless it is trying to portray itself that way.
In fact, given the large Italian population in New York and the number of Italian restaurants, I would rather see a restaurant that tries to add something new to the mix. Seeing what creative chefs can do to create great Italian American or Italian Fusion restaurants is a lot more interesting to me that to see if someone can duplicate the cuisine of a specific region of Italy.
I feel the same way about other cuisines as well. I go to a lot of French restaurants and I do not judge them on how similar they are to restaurants in France. I will probably never get a really great baguette in New York, no matter how hard chefs try to duplicate them. To me, it's not even worth trying. If I want it to be like food in France, Paris is just a short flight away.
I agree completely, FWIW.
I think this may be a bigger issue with Italian restaurants because for years Italian restaurants were not afforded the respect of other cuisines, like French (and in some ways are still not afforded the respect). Guys like Batali have oriented their careers around pushing the quality of Italian cooking and basically advancing a theory that says "The italian food you have had in the U.S. is <<expletive>> because you haven't been having "real" italian food. This is what real italian food looks and tastes like. It is authentic." Personally, I think Italian food has reached a level of respect where it is time to move beyond to chef-oriented restaurants with Italian (and perhaps other) influences.
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>> has anyone really had a superlative Italian entree? at least in the U.S.?
Had a pork belly special last summer at L'Impero that just blew me away, but I haven't seen it since.
In general, I would agree, though. Next time I go to L'Impero it will be for the pasta tasting menu.
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I had a horrible meal there the other day (a thurs)
The staff was fantastic and really on top of it, but the food was sorely lacking. I think it's really just a sub-par but good enogh restaurant. We had the codfish fritters (pretty good, but covered in some sort of mayo gloop that was just all over them, it really should have been on the side or applied sparingly. then we had the meatballs and the linguine with clams.
The matballs were as had as rocks and really crusty on the outside, they were clearly made with not enough filler, which makes for a nice light meatball. they looked as if they had been sitting is some hotel pan for days, and then sauced and thrown at our table...yick and expensive too.
The linguini was fine, not good, not great but fine. The catch there were perhaps four bites of pasta in the tiny bowl, there were many clams (which was nice, they were cooked well, but no pasta..what the hell? the sauce was also thin and without much discernable flavour.
the room was nice, loud and waht i imagine some people to consifer village/meatpacking hip (too much sex and the city)
This restaurant was a shame. I was really excited, as it's very close to my house, but it was a total letdown. The upside was that the food was not inedible and the cocktails looked nice, so if a friend were to suggest it i wouldn't sneer, maybe just sigh...
sorry for the bad spelling I'm out the door...sorry to burst the bubble, I was excited too...
The "mayo gloop" would be the aioli (garlic mayo).
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In general, I find expensive dining in Paris is high even by New York standards (at least until recently). Actually, I would say the average Paris 3-star is on par pricewise with ADNY and Per Se.
Veal Kidneys
in Cooking
Posted · Edited by mikeycook (log)
Ooh, I forgot about that part. Now I'm DEFINITELY buying some kidneys (unless Daniel is having a party
).