MMerrill

While staying in Bologna in mid-October, we drove just south of town one evening to this delightful restaurant. The Osteria is attractively modern and we were greeted warmly by Pietro Pompili who took care of us exceedingly well for the rest of the evening. As has been described on this forum before, the restaurant serves a series of ten first courses, including a soup and a risotto. The servings are small enough to allow you to finish them all, but you can bail out at any time. Each course costs 4 eruos. Here is the menu for October that we had: Crema di broccoletti con chips di pane ed olio al rosmarino. Maccheroncini al torchio all'anatra e scorza d'arancia. Riso Carnaroli mantecato ai funghi porcini e castagne. Tagliolino al nero con calamari e bietole. Cappelletti farciti di zucca, burro aromatico all 'erbette, semi di sesamo ed infusione alia liquirizia. Lasagnetta gratinata al radicchio, taleggio e parmigiano. Gramigna in farina di semola con salsiccia, scaglie di grana e riduzione al balsamico di Modena. Passatelli asciutti su salsa di spinaci e bruscandoli al prosciutto. Tortelli verdi farciti di ricotta e pera, semi di papavero e caramello al vino rosso. Rigatoni all 'uovo alia moda di amatrice fume. We were also started off with an amuse of wafer-thin toast crisps w/tomato and onion. We ordered one dessert - a delicious vanilla gelato, w/chocolate sauce, artistically arranged on the plate with berries and bits of crispy pastry. We thought it looked like a pheasant! Before that we were presented with a "pre-dessert" of three mini creme brulees - caramel (I think), hazlenut and coffee. Fabulous! We loved the food, which is seasonal and combines tradition and creativity with flare. I can't really pinpoint one dish that stood out. The evening was just a wonderful dining experience. You can follow this link to the earlier discussion: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=831291

I think it would be difficult at night. They're both south of Bologna, but the roads to Savigno are small and twisty - easy to get lost. Also our dinner at Osteria dal Minestraio lasted from 8 'til 11! But we only had to drive back to Bologna. Maybe they're open for lunch? (tel: 051742017)

We returned from this trip 2 weeks ago and stayed in many lovely places and had many memorable meals - and a few disappointing ones. Started with dinner at the Enoteca della Valpolicella in Fumane (and spent the night in their very nice guest house). Among the highlights were: thinly sliced raw beef on grilled vegetables appetizer, taglitelle w/rabbit ragu, and duck breast on chicory w/Amarone reduction. We drank a "tre bicchiere" Amarone - Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie ‘00 - that was so delicious and reasonable that we later followed the map to their vineyard to buy 4 bottles to carry home. Next day stopped for lunch in Soave at Lo Scudo, a lovely quite formal restaurant w/excellent food. The next 4 nights we stayed on the Prosecco road at the Foresteria Duca di Dolle owned by the producers of Bisol Prosecco, near the tiny town of Rolle. This is a beautiful and tranquil spot, surrounded by vineyard-clad hills, but with 4 good restaurants not far away - Al Monastero and da Andreetta in Rolle, Al Caminetto in Follina, and Al Fagiano in Borgo Zuel di La. My husband thought Al Caminetto was the standout, but all were very good. We also had an excellent lunch in Valdobbiadene at Osteria Rosso di Sera (recommended by the delightful young woman who gave us a tour of the Bisol Winery). We took the train into Venice one day to find the city crowded with mobs of tourists, the Rialto area full of cheesy trinket stalls, everything expensive (a trip on the vaporetto cost 5 Euro!). We did walk all over and opted for a pizza lunch at Il Refolo (an offspring of Da Fiore). The setting was pleasant but the pizza unremarkable. On to Bologna and some great eating adventures: lunch at the incredible gastronomia, Tamburini at their "Bistrot-Self lunch VeloCibò" where you choose hot and cold dishes, wine, beer and water, cafeteria-style. You can eat as little or as much as you choose. We love it. We had two dinners while in Bologna - at the Osteria dal Minestraio in Pianoro, and at Al Cambio. Both were outstanding. I'll post separately. Final days we had main meals at lunch. One was at the Gambero Rosso "3 gamberi" Osteria della Villetta in Palazzolo sull'Oglio. Here the trattoria setting and food were pleasant, but (we felt) overpriced. Last major meal was lunch at "D'O," in San Pietro all'Olmo, just west of Milano. Fabulous! Separate post. Thanks again to all for good recommendations and suggestions.

We ate at Da Amerigo, and also stayed with them in November 2004. Loved everything. We were in Room 2, which is spectacular, but cold because it's so roomy. I'd choose a smaller room in winter.

Any updates for dining in this area on Sunday?

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Leslie, da Buriani looks awfully nice - we'll consider it. We're staying at the hotel next to al Cambio. Looks like it will be easy to park there and be able to drive out of the city, as well as take the bus in. Staximo, I love the sound of Trattoria Meloncello too. Albiston, thanks for the tip about reserving at D'O. I called right away and got a recording (which I called back about 5 times to listen to and decipher). Ended up getting up at 5 this morning to call during the approved time - 10 to 12. I think I spoke with the chef who couldn't be nicer and spoke great English, and I got my reservation for lunch on Oct 19th!! I'm never sure about how far in advance to call for reservations. Don't want to seem like a complete nut, but don't want to miss a meal at a restaurant I'm travelling all the way to Italy to try. Luckily, the other problem is that there are always too many choices. Dalla Rosa Alda sounds tempting too. Does anyone have a recommendation for Treviso?

We've planned a 10-day trip in and out of Malpensa to the Veneto, Bologna, Bergamo and thereabouts. I'd love comments on places we plan to visit and recommendations for ones we shouldn't miss. We don't seek out the "temples of gastronomy," but prefer more casual or up-and-coming places. Here are some restaurants and places I have in mind - the Enoteca della Valpolicella in Fumane north of Verona. The Foresteria Duca di Dolle, in Rolle, owned by the producers of Bisol Prosecco. This will be a base for 4 days to explore the foothill area north of Venice (with maybe a day-trip into Venice as well). Ristorante Da Gigetto in Miane, Il Basilisco in Treviso, Il Refolo (lunch in Venice). In Bologna plan to have dinner at Al Cambio and the Osteria del Minestraio. Also thinking of a lunch at Ristorante D'O outside Milan. Can't handle two major meals in one day, but there are still some gaps to fill. What do you all think? Molly

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=879868 We stayed at Seliano last March and had a wonderful lunch at Il Papevero in Eboli, described in the above link. Highly recommended! And have you read through this link about Marenna'? http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=768163 We also had dinner at Da Amerigo is Savigno several years ago - and spent the night in one of the rooms they rent. The whole experience was delightful - the little town in the hills, wonderful food, and welcoming staff in the restaurant. Also highly recommended! Molly

Here's a link to a report I made when we got home last summer. Not too much, I'm afraid. http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=666363

Dino's, opening today in Cleveland Park, sounds promising. See www.dino-dc.com.

This is the Trattoria Laguna's website which gives directions on how to arrive by car: http://www.trattorialaguna.it/HomeE.htm. Could be another option.

Re bringing back cheese: I usually throw several good-sized zip lock bags in my suitcase and find they work well for carrying cheese. That's what we used returning from Portugal and they came through fine. I have had cheese vacuum packed when we've travelled in Italy. I don't think it was an option at the shop where we bought our cheese recently. By the way, don't try to bring home meat products (even though they are sold in airport shops and are very tempting). US Customs will confiscate them! Cheese luckily is not a problem.

We had a delightful trip, but spent the bulk of our time in the eastern Algarve where we feasted daily on fresh grilled fish and wonderful shellfish mixtures - Catalplana, Arroz de Mariscos. I'm thinking that you won't be in that area so will not get into restaurant names there. However, we tried out a new(to us) restaurant in Lisbon that we loved - went there our first night and last night. It's called Churrasqueira do Sacramento or Casa Toscano (which I don't understand. Sounds Italian which it's not.) Rua do Sacramento (a Alcantara) 74/76, Tel: 21 396 8633. Closed Sunday. This is a very simple, small, informal restaurant that specializes in grilled fresh fish. You can see what they have in the counter and they grill it right in the front window. It was served with a nice fresh lettuce and tomato salad and boiled potatoes with olive oil. Everything delicious!! And very reasonably priced! Another restaurant we like in the Alcantara area is O Painel de Alcantara, Rua do Arco (a Alcantara) 7-13, Tel: 21 396 5920, closed Sunday. It gets very crowded; should reserve. They serve traditional Portuguese dishes, very well prepared (and copious). Have enjoyed the arroz de mariscos and baked kid. Also very reasonable. Daily specials always good. As usual, we had a lunch at Solar dos Nunes which I've described before, and it continues to be a top favorite. Be sure to ask for the menu in Portuguese and check the daily specials. A truly lovely and tranquil restaurant that is mentioned in most guides is Conventual. We have had 2 lunches there that were superb. We think it's one of the best restaurants in Lisbon and for such a delightful setting and exceptional food it is not exhorbitantly expensive. It' in the Estrela area, Tel: 213 909 246. By the way, don't miss trying some of the wonderful Portuguese cheeses. Some of the top ones are: Azeitao, Serpa and Serra. They are often served in restaurants either as starters or as dessert courses and will be in perfect condition. A real treat! We always buy several to bring home. The department store El Corte Ingles has a great food store on the lower level where we always shop, but there are also lots of specialty deli-type stores around too. Have a wonderful trip. It's going to be warm! You could call my daughter if you have questions while you're there. PM me if you'd like her number. Molly

Wow, too bad! We've always (used them 3 or 4 times) had great service from them. Did you try contacting them a second time?

Here is a link to a nice article on cooking schools in Florence that may help you reach a decision: http://www.slowtrav.com/tuscantraveler/divas.htm Good luck!

Re: restaurant reservations in Italy, look at this site: internetrestaurant.it. We've used them several times with great success. However I don't know whether they list any of the restaurants you are interested in.

If I did things correctly, here is a link to additional information on a couple of the restaurants you're interested in in Lisbon: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=576896. Solar dos Nunes is in the neighborhood where we stay and we've eaten there many times and love it. I'm sure you must have read earlier posts about eating in Lisbon so I don't want to repeat information you already have. That said, if you get out to Cascais and Guincho, I strongly recommend Joao Padeiro on the beach in Guincho (21 487 1007) for the Linquado de Cascais. Sit by the front windows with the surf rushing in below you and enjoy the best sole you've ever eaten! Not inexpensive. And, when you visit the monastery in Belem, be sure to stop at the Antiqua Confeitaria de Belem for Pasteis de Belem - the wonderful little custards in pastry sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon. They're addictive! We'll be in Lisbon and the Algarve the last week in May and will post any new discoveries when we return. Molly

We visit Portugal several times a year and have enjoyed many wonderful meals in Lisbon, as well as in the countryside. In Nazare, the grilled sardines are superb. We had them once in a restaurant on the plaza of the upper town (on the cliff looking down over the beach). Will try to get the name. The other time, we ate at one of the beach-side restaurants with tables outdoors. I think fresh sardines will be in season in June, and they are wonderful - just grilled - worth seeking out! Another treat is to drive to the town of Negrais, not too far north of Lisbon, between the coast and the A8 Highway, which is famous for roast suckling pig. We went there for lunch and ate at one of several restaurants serving this specialty - an upstairs restaurant in the center of town. Really delicious! I'll try to dig up better information for you. I see you've already checked out the past threads about eating in Lisbon which will give you some excellent suggestions. Molly

Our last big meal on recent trip to Italy was lunch at Marenna, and what a treat it was! Via phone and internet, I had booked the "cellar tour and Marenna w/3 wines" package for 50 euros a head. We were first given a wonderful tour of the grounds and cellars of this amazing winery by the very charming Francesca Festa. As we had arrived early, she then left us in a comfortable lounge/library to wait until the 1:30 lunch time. At the appointed time we were escorted up to the restaurant, which in daytime is very bright with lots of windows and views over the surrounding countryside. I felt we were seated at the best table - right in front of the large window into the kitchen. We had a 3-course menu that began with a delectable amuse - a nugget of duck crusted with sesame seeds and truffle on a pumpkin puree w/cacciocavallo Podolice (sp?) cheese sauce. With that we were served the basic Fiano di Avellino 2003. Next came ravioli Genovese, stuffed with veal and lightly fried, in a light meat sauce. Wine was Fiano di Avellino Pietracalda 2003 docg. The main course was very tender long-cooked veal on a bed of local vegetables (verza) with an intense aglianico sauce. Wine - Taurasi 2000 docg. For dessert we had a cassata - a mound of cake filled with buffalo ricotta and chocolate with a shear sugared glaze, and ginger sorbetto. And a bonus wine - Privilegio 2001 - and a bonus plate of exquisite house-made chocolates. The meal also included the bread as Ore described it, mineral water and coffee. It's hard to describe how good everything was - balanced, beautifully presented, wonderful.

While staying near Ostuni, try to get to Carovigno (not far, in the direction of Brindisi) for a meal at Gia Sotto l'Arco. It's in a 17th century palazzo in the center of the old town. We had lunch there several years ago and were served by the proprietor who is the husband of the chef. He gave us excellent wine suggestions, including the delicious Mjere rosato mentioned in an earlier post. The food - along with the whole experience - is simply wonderful.

Actually, if you're doing museums on the Mall with kids, the restaurant at the National Museum of the American Indian is quite interesting, and the cafeteria at the National Gallery is another good bet - good variety of food in a pleasant setting. For ethnic food, if you can drive across the Potomac to Arlington, have pho for lunch at Pho 75 at 1721 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA. For dinner, another consideration would be Ristorante Tosca, 1112 F Street NW, DC. Delicious food that actually tastes like being in italy without being exorbitantly expensive.

I'd like to chime in with Rodman's on upper Wisconsin Avenue. I know it's called a drug store but, they have a large, interesting wine selection, good prices, and knowledgeable and opinionated staff. Easy parking behind the store. This is the DC Rodman's, not Maryland.

My husband and I enjoyed a wonderful meal at Ristorante Tosca Wednesday night. It was our first visit and made us want to return. Our server carefully explained the RW menu rules. Most of the regular menu was available except for several items with surcharges which he pointed out. The food was outstanding. For appetizers, we had the goat cheese torte (?) and the prosciutto w/fresh mozzarella - delicious. My husband had linguine w/shellfish sauce and I had roasted branzino. They made us feel we were in Italy - what more can I say! We ended with the chocolate extravaganza (a tad dry) and mixed gelati and Illy cafe. Nice wines by the glass. Great experience.

Had a very nice pre-Kennedy Center meal at Circle Bistro last night. We sat in the bar which is an attractive space, if somewhat smoky. We were there during happy hour so beer and some wine by the glass were half price, a nice bonus. The food offered on the bar menu was appealing so that's what we ordered - good hamburgers with fries for the guys, pieces of deep-fried fish with 3 dipping sauces, a 6-sample cheese plate, and a special of scallops in a tempura batter with an Asian sauce. Everything was good and the service was quick and attentive. It worked perfectly for what we wanted!

I've sometimes found better prices on single malts in the Montgomery County liquor stores than in DC, when they're having sales. You can check on their web site for what's currently on sale. Selection is probably moderate.