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MMerrill

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Everything posted by MMerrill

  1. It helps to be a map fanatic, use the internet, and have a Portuguese son-in-law who will ask directions. It took three stops to find Clube da Pesca, and it was worth the trouble!
  2. Just returned from a quick week's trip to Portugal, with 3 days in the Algarve and the rest in Lisbon. We travel there 2 to 3 times yearly to visit our daughter and her family. Let me recommend a lovely resaturant in the neighborhood where we stay, a little off the tourist track. It is "Solar dos Nunes" at Rua dos Lusiadas, 68-72, Tel:21 364 7359. Closed Sunday. If you travel by bus or trolley, you'd get off just under the 25 Abril bridge and walk up Rua ? de Oliveira one block, then left one block to the restaurant. We usually go for lunch and choose from the daily specials (be sure you look at the menu in Portuguese for these). Last week we had rice with shellfood, and grilled baby kid - both superb. Of course they always bring "starters" to the table that include olives, wonderful little soft cheeses and often slices of "pata negra" ham. The latter is truly special but expensive. To the contrary the daily specials are exceedingly reasonable and always great. The house red wine from the Alentejo is delicious. The restaurant is traditional and very attractive and the service is wonderful. In Lisbon, we had time for one other restaurant meal and, following an excellent recommendation by Miguel Cardoso, sought out "O Solar dos Leitoes," in the Benfica neighborhood, which specializes in very fresh grilled fish. The neighborhood feels like a small village and it is a surprise to find this lovely little restaurant here. We lunched on grilled "perago"? which was superb accompanied by a fresh salad and delicious boiled potatoes. They have an extensive wine list and prices are reasonable. It's at Travessa Marques Lesbio, 20. Tel:21 778 7587. In the Algarve, we stayed near Silves and ate only in places recommended by Miguel - Marisqueira Rui in Silves, Vila Lisa, O Sueste in Ferragudo and the Clube da Pesca Desportive in Sao Rafael (west of Albufeira). Highlights at Rui were the "ameijoas a Bulhao Pato," incredibly wonderful with the best juice that you almost want to drink - or at least sop up with the good bread. My 2-yr old granddaughter must have eaten at least 25 clams herself - good girl. Their seafood rice dish is spectacular, and cataplana, and the percebes a fresh taste of the sea. At Vila Lisa the sopa de conquilhas, in a broth with rice was great as was the beef marrow soup with chick peas. Had grilled Robalo at O Sueste and grilled scabbard fish at the Clube da Pesca, both excellent. Loved the atmosphere at the Clube de Pesca -very genuine and family-oriented, and also quite reasonably priced. We also stopped in Guia for grilled chickens to take out (for a final light dinner) and heavenly fresh navel oranges from a roadside stand outside Silves. Miguel says the food in the north is better, but this was very hard to beat. Thanks, Miguel for all the recommendations!
  3. I spent a week in Liguria in October of 2002 and had some great meals taking suggestions from Gambero Rosso and Fred Plotkin's Italy for the Gourmet Traveller. In Cervo (Alto), just west of Imperia, we ate at the "Ristorante San Giorgio" and had the best grilled prawns I've ever tasted - among many other wonderful dishes. When we praised the chef, Caterina, for her wonderful cooking she said it was simply because she used only the very best local ingredients supplied by special people. The restaurant is in the upper town with spectacular views out over the sea. (Closed Tues. Tel 0183 400175). This was a Plotkin recommendation as is also going to the town of Recco, near Camogli, for "focaccia al formaggio di Recco," an experience not to be missed. The famous restaurant for this food is Manuelina which was closed the day we were there(Wed) so we ate at "Ristorante Vitturin" and had superb baked fish as well as the amazing focaccia. (Closed Mon. Tel:0185720225) One other unique restaurant stands out from this trip - "Il Portico" in Feligno a miniscule town in the hills just above the coast west of Savona. This is a charming restaurant that serves a set menu that changes with the seasons for a current fixed price of 22 Euros! The night we were there in October the restaurant was decorated with pumpkins and seasonal flora and many of the probably 10 dishes we were served featured porcini mushrooms (for which the waiter apologized). When we arrived at the appointed time - 8pm - our table for four had 2 bottles of house wine, one red, one white, and a bottle of acqua minerale, waiting for us. As the tables filled up, the dinner service started with multiple small courses from antipasti to desserts. We ordered additional wine and water and still our bill for 4 people totalled 80 Euros (2 years ago), and the food was creative and delicious. I believe it is closed Mon. and Tues. and is only open in the evening. Reservations are obligatory. Tel:019699207. I didn't see any places to stay in the town, but we stayed in Noli, nearby, where there are several pleasant hotels on the seafront from where you can watch the fishermen bring in their catch in the morning and sell it from stands right there on the beach. Have a great trip!
  4. We travelled in Le Marche in November 2003. Spent half a day in Ascoli Piceno. Visited the Gastronomia Migliori in Piazza Aringo to try their famous stuffed olives - which were good. They also have other carry-out type food and sell wine, olive oil etc. We spent several nights in Grottammare, down on the coast in a very pleasant hotel, the Villa Helvetia - reasonably priced and centrally located. Had one dinner at the Osteria del'Arancio (only open at night) which was excellent. Same owner has a good pizza restaurant just up the hill from the Osteria, if you want a lighter meal and wonderful view over the town and sea.
  5. Thanks "slkinsey" and "endless autumn" for your very helpful suggestions and many web sites to explore! Has anyone visited the Frasassi Caves? What are they like? We're starting our visit in Pesaro, then stopping in Jesi and heading on to Castelraimondo and Il Giardino degli Ulivi for the night. Then back to the coast near Ancona, catching small towns along the way. Will end with three nights in Grottamare from where we can visit Ascoli Piceno and smaller towns in the hills. When we head north to fly out of Bologna, we plan to stop in Urbino. We have 7 days, but there are still too many places to go, restaurants to eat in, wines to drink!
  6. Thanks for your suggestions. We are flying into Bologna and spending our first night in Savigno if the Bolognese hills where they also have a truffle festival. May not make it to Acqualagna.
  7. I'll be in the Marche region for a week the end of Oct/beginning of Nov. We're planning to eat at La Canonica, l'Oasi degli Angeli and Osteria dell'Arancio. I'd love to have any other suggestions for places to eat, vineyards to visit and things to do in general.
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