Christopher

Drought or no drought I always shake my head at guests who order bottled mineral water and then ask for ice. I mean, doesn't that defeat the prurpose?

Here's the latest ... The city now forbids us to offer or bring tap water. We must serve it 'only on request' I may not automatically pour tap water. (Apparently we can get fined) nor may I offer it to you. This is from the city and, as I understand it, you the guest, must initiate the request. FWIW: So many people interpreted the offer of $3. for a 750ml of Evian as manipulative that we've restored the price to $7. And, magically, no more complaints. Go figure.

Of course Blue Smoke is getting a lot of attention because it's run by Meyer. All that means is that it's a famous infant, but an infant none the less. Nowhere in my post did I say that one should like or even accept ill-portions, misguided service, etc. Just that it's to be expected in a new restaurant. Your comment about the frat-boys reminds me of the crowd we had at GT when we first opened. Our bar was, for months filled with 'professional ladies of the evening' We were known to be the place to do business. It was even published in a well known magazine that "If you couldn't get (insert euphamism for the sex act here) at GT, it wasn't going to happen for you." So, the crowd will change and move on to the next hot spot. The food and service will stabilize and an style will emerge. Then you should go back and see what's what.

Has anyone else noticed that threads about, for lack of a better term, common man foods i.e.: Burgers, Pizza, BBQ! Raise the greatest heat? Meyer knew way before Blue Smoke opened that he would take an enormous amount of flack from those who feel strongly about this very regional food. I myself wanted to know if he was going to serve NC BBQ, as I remember that with great fondness. But, to jump on an authenticity band wagon is silly. Shall we be authentic and deny cappucino service in the evening because that is just not done in Florence? Or should I write Firenze? ;) We are talking about an infant restaurant and some are looking at it and demanding that it walk and talk like it's older siblings just because it has famous parents. A word of caution, if you don't like flumoxed hostesses, lost orders, slow service and general chaos, stay clear of brand new restaurants.

Sorry to hear that. Years ago when they first opened (and I used to impersonate him with GNP) it was great fun to have Lee Atwater working the room. He would even sit down and chat with you. I remember the food being good.

Georg Breuer is the label, Bernhard is the producer and what he vinifies is why people like me wax poetic about riesling. While I certainly appreciate just about every German Riesling I’ve tried, I have found the greatest balance in his wines. They are like a kaleidoscope diffusing the many facets of the grape. Michelangelo said that he did not carve the David, that David was in the marble and he just removed everything that wasn’t David. I think Breuer is this way with his vineyards, removing what is not necessary and releasing the full flavours and aromas of each vintage. His wines hit all points on the Riesling scale: Soil, sweet, earth, acid. They also destroy the myth of the light and pretty Germanic wine. I find them to be blockbusters. Breuer’s wines are that rare breed that both make statements and ask questions. The main question being why aren’t more Rieslings like this!? I am also amazed at the length both on the palate and on the vintage. The ’91 Montosa we poured by the glass at GT had the acid of a young Marsanne and that was considered a second tier bottling for him! “Even the barrels that come very close to the best ones will not obtain the name of the top-site but are since 1988 blended in the Second Wine, which since 1991 bears the name of Montosa. When in 1074 the first vines were planted on the steep slopes of Rüdesheim a document (“Codex diplomaticus Moguntinus”) was written at the court of the archbishop of Mainz, than the owner of most of the Rheingau: “quomodo terra inculta et montosa prope Ruedsheim et Ebiongen exculta fuerit et redacta in statum vinearum” It is that name that we given to the wine that represents the second best quality produced in our estate. This wine corresponds from its origine of minerally, stony soils (montosa=mountanous) to the ideal of a powerful, yet elegant Riesling.” - Bernhard Breuer from the web link above. This commitment to excellence is why his “First Growth” Rieslings (Berg Schlossberg,(2.6ha) Berg Rottland(1.0ha) from, Rüdsheim and the 5/ha monopole Nonnenberg from Raunenthal) harvested at 25-45hl/ha on average, are the most superior in the marketplace. Breuer continues: “… balance, aromas and body in our wines is more important than must weight; extract and the inner density more important than yield. All our wines have great concentration. This is very favorable when matched with food, adds an additional life span to the wines and corresponds to our own idea of quality. Therefore in our estate it is highest physiological ripeness in the grapesand their status of health that determines the harvest date. But most importantly to me as a waiter is his statement: “We vinify our wines so that they can be matched with food.” And match they do. Our guests find his wines delicious and they have the weight and the oft-elusive ‘vinosity’ to make them serious food wines when perhaps a white burgundy would be the default choice. One cannot ignore the CHARTA organization. By commodifying the vineyard and allowing the winemaker to determine when the grape is ready, you both shackle and unshackle his skills. First, he is free to make choices independent of a regulatory box that the 1971 laws might otherwise put him in. He is allowed to bring the wines of Germany into the 21st century where they will compete on a proper scale. The other side of this coin, he is now under the same pressure as the Grand Cru Burgundy producer. Expectation is raised and vintage becomes a player. Once you get the spotlight, you have to perform. So far, Breuer’s wines are showstoppers.

Muller-Catoir or Ted Lemon (Littorai)

Red: Henri Bonneau White: Georg Breuer

Not a silly question, It is quite possible and acceptable on Beaujolais to find a slight petillant which is a light effervescence on an otherwise still wine. Sometimes thought to be a result of carbonic maceration which is popular in Beaujolais.

There must be something in the water ... I had a guest last night taste a bottle of wine and without hesitation told me it was corked. I took it away and went to get new bottle of the same. Once at the bar I tasted the wine myself and it was beautiful! So now I know that this guest just doesn't like this style of wine, which is fine, but from his point of view it's a bad bottle. If I open another he's going to have the same reaction. So, instead of correcting him ("Oh sir the wine is fine I need you to make another choice.") I returned with an alternate selection saying that, sadly he had tasted our last bottle and would he be willing to try my reccomendation. He did, he loved it, everyone was happy.

Our policy is that if the wine is not to your liking for whatever reason we take it back and bring you another bottle. If the 1st wine turns out to be sound we will sell it off by the glass at the bar. We already have 21 wines open what's 22? If the wine is corked or oxidized I'll pass it around to every new waiter I can as a teaching tool. This being said, I think it is an economy of scale. We're a big place, it's easier for us to absorb that loss than say BLUE HILL. (as an example, I don't know anything at all about their policies)

I drink Campari like water and for those who usually go for Campari with OJ I cannot tell you how much better Campari is with grapefruit juice. If you like Campari as an aromatic cocktail component try this: 2 parts campari, 2 parts chartreuse jaune and 6 parts GFJ or OJ. Which leads me to: Any other chartreuse junkies?

Apologies in advance ... You should have brought her to THE WOMEN

It's both. I can tell when I pull the cork from any wine, still or sparking, if it's corked. It's an unmistakable nose that leaps out the minute the cork is pulled and I wont even bring the bottle back to the table. But sometimes there are off flavours that cannot be detected save for the taste. And sometimes it's a matter of personal taste. (too dry, sweet, cloying etc.) So why not take the taste, and know that you're going to be happy? Also, having wine in the glasses of the entire table can be my cue to the kitchen that I'm ready for food. If I fill all of your glasses on a "Just pour" command and the food hits the table, well, we have a time gap while food goes cold as I polish new glasses and try a second bottle. Yes of course we can take the plates back and probably will if it's going to be awhile (8 people with Riedel and decanting and all that) But if I can avoid that with a simple taste from the host it's great. There are a few guests who will give me the go ahead to taste all of their wines 1st so that the meeting or whatever can continue uninterupted throughout dinner. But as Tommy said, you really have to trust and know your waiter/captain to have that happen. The guests who do that with me I know by name and we've established not only a rapport but an understanding about likes, dislikes, and prices. Now I ramble ... :wow:

I remember getting tossed out of Mr. Eagans with two friends. Marios. Does anyone remember when they thought they could franchise and became Marinos? Their second location was the old Ginos down the way from B&Ediths. This idea lasted about a second and the returned, thankfully, to just Marios

You're joking, right? I hope so! GT has a whole mess of champagne stored standing for over six months in the cellar. Champagne can be corked, flat, oxidized or otherwise off just like still wine. I often encounter a resistance when I pour a taste from a bottle of champagne with guests claiming that it is "Improper to taste champagne and that I should just pour." OK, whatever you want but ...

BOB & EDITHS is good because one is usually there at 2am already in the bag. It's good because in fierce Redskin country they proudly sport a poster of the 1977 Dallas Cowboys. And it's good because they serve real short order diner food. Also in Arlington is MARIOS sub shop on Wilson Blvd. (or was last time I checked) Enormous ribeye steak and cheese with sweet peppers. (I feel a homesick road trip comin' on ...)

The menu reads like those in the south and has my favorite Southern phrase "Lightly Fried" Not sure what it means or how they accomplish it but it's ubiquitous in the south. Along with "Cooked to perfection" I always want to give that as an answer to "How would you like that cooked?" Steven, The raw oysters are cheap, are they any good?

If there truly is no such thing as bad press then craft/craft bar is doing quite well by egullet. I promised myself I wouldn't post here because I am clearly less than objective but I think I have something to add. I think it is important to remember that craft/craftbar is a new restaurant. Yes it'll be open a year this March and it has three stars but I can tell you that the current GT you've all come to know does not resemble the GT of July 11 1995. In fact Shaw's initital reveiw of GT included the line (and I'm paraphrasing) "At first I thought Meyer had erred in hiring Chef Colicchio." A position Shaw later revised. So, restaurants and chefs grow and change and THEY GET BETTER. As does our service :) In terms of how craft/cb has marketed itself and how the waiters behave, let's go back to the opening of GT. Does anybody else remember the NYMAGAZINE article the week before we opened with the headline THE NEXT GREAT RESTAURANT? with four gold stars underneath? That herald was a publicity nightmare and both our service and food were under constant attack. And the number of people screaming about that magazine piece (including NYM's own Gael Greene) grew by the minute. (We were given two stars by the NYTIMES) I wager that if I could spirit you all back in time to the first 12 months of GT you would experience the same things you see at craft. Including obsequious waiters thinking that they are, as the article said: "Reinventing 4 star luxury dining. So craft will continue to refine, improve, and get better. If you don't like it now, come back in 3 years. To specific points: Sure, if you don't taste the difference between the ingriedinets at craft vs some other less expensive place then don't go. Shaw has made this same point with wine. The higher in price you go the more difficult it is to distinguish differences. I happen to drink an inordinate amout of Red Burgundy. I do taste village, vineyard, producer and cru differences. That may not be true in another region where I'd be just as happy with a village wine. (although none leap to mind!) If what's happening at craft is lost on your palate there is nothing wrong with either craft or your tastebuds. Yvonne: Label for Label, vintage for vintage, Matthew's wines at craft are more than competitive with any other restaurant save for perhaps USC in the Italian category. His percentages are nowhere near as high as others. Wilfrid: The only trouble I encountered with tableside de-boneing is that if a great number of people go for the Dover Sole, for example, the time involved lets someones fish go cold. Either the 1st or last. Rachel: The website picture is circa 1998. All this being said I, not surprisingly, adore craft. It lets me eat Tom's food without having to go to the office as 'twere.

Yes. Where've you been? ;)

Yes. Steven wrote a review of Fried Dumpling on 3/1/01 which addresses this occurence wherein his readers were frequently dissapointed when a list of his most favorite restaurants included the usual suspects. That somehow we keep expecting to hear about an obscure spot in an unmarked brownstone frequented only by Basque natives and their invited guests and that you only need to leave a small donation at the door ... I'm paraphrasing here but Hal says in HENRY IV ( an he's paraphrasing scripture) "Wisdom stands shouting on the street corner and no one pays attention." Which says to me that there is some merit in a list of usual suspects.

Paul - The decision to pair or choose a wine is mine in the moment and I want the guest to feel that what's being brought to bear is my knowledge of the food and wine combined with whatever direction they've given me. (Color, price, style) I take everything I can into consideration however I avoid external referencing to a previous diner especially if the person seems less familiar with wines. I don't want there to be the pressure of all the previous diners were pleased with this selection when the initial taste is poured. I want it to be a personal collaboration with each table and for the guest to feel free to accept or decline. It's in my best interest for you to be happy.

We can't know from the article what the exact communication was. All we know is that Grimes narrowed his choice to three very good bottles and the waiter affirmed that they were all very good bottles or, in the colloquialism at hand, they were all plum choices. But here is where I think that communication would not be helpful to my guests. Let's say a guest has narrowed down to three white burgundies all within a ฟ range of each other. Let's further refine to say they are each 1er cru and all from the same vintage. What I need to do is select the best of the three. If I've tasted all three I will certainly have a strong opinion on which is the most complete wine at this time ( fruit, acid, legnth, terroir) If I haven't, I will choose by producer. If a guest has selected three vastly different wines (Red Burgundy, Barbaresco, California Zin) then I need to ask more questions to find out what they are looking for or, if they don't want a dialogue, pick the best bottle for their order. To service and recomendations in general: The majority of my recomendations now come from the feedback of guests over the years. I've been at GT since we opened and have heard nothing but raves about certain dishes. So, what do I suggest? What you've told me to suggest through the years. Does this make sense? Also, the great majority of my guests are looking for me to have an opinion. I am asked directly to choose meals. It doesn't diminish their capacity as informed diners, it simply means that part of the experience for them is not having to make any choices and for 3 hours to be in someone elses care.