DonRocks

One can only hope.

Did this remind anyone of Meg Ryan in When Harry('s Tap Room) Met Sally?

In early November, our own Derek will become front of the house at Firefly. This is all for the good, and Frank Ruta has been involved each step of the way. The deep reverence shown by all parties towards Frank has been the most moving thing about this story: had Frank not given his blessing from day one, it would not have happened. There can be no greater respect than this. Look for Evan to step up and become alpha male at Palena, and for Kelli and Carolyn to soar with not-so-little wings.

I had that soup last week, and you should not miss it. Also, if it's on the menu, the cabbage-wrapped halibut topped with crisp speck ham is one of the great dishes being served in Washington right now. Jamison or Alex, if you read this, would you mind sharing with us how, exactly, you can pull this dish off? Cheers, Rocks.

That's because you haven't had the Kobe beef tartare miniburger at Poste. It's ten dollars for a single miniburger, and you only get the top half of the brioche, but it's hand-chopped and gooood, with tiny little flakes of Malden salt resting atop the bun. (Contrast: after visiting Poste, I paid a return visit to Matchbox where, for the second straight time, the miniburgers came back overcooked, and even had some sort of grease (from the onion straws perhaps?) sitting on top of half the rolls, but that's for another thread I suppose.) Cheers, Rocks.

I stopped into Gordon Biersch (does anyone remember the blinking penisaurus in Flesh Gordon?) last night for a nightcap, and ordered a Marzen and a Fest. The beers arrived, I took one taste of each, and just about gagged. I asked the snotty bartender where the beers came from, and she pointed behind me and said "over there." I turned around and saw what appeared to be a microbrew operation, but quite honestly I couldn't believe that these beers were brewed right there in a small batch. Then I looked at the menu and saw that there are sixteen other locations, and guessed that this stuff must be mass-produced formula beer, with the corporate-purchased ingredients trucked in and brewed locally under the guise of being some sort of craft brew, sort of like Otis Spunkmeyer cookies at 7-11, or even Papa John's pizza (ever seen the big rigs that pull into that place?) Is this stuff always this bad, and can anyone confirm how this place operates? Sweetwater Tavern in Falls Church is a good example of a corporate-owned brewpub that can make things worth drinking - every Sunday night they pull up a beer from the pump, served at room temperature, without any carbonation. Their regular beers aren't bad either, and the food is at precisely the same level as Artie's (both places are owned by the Great American Restaurant Group, so many menu items overlap and the execution is very similar). Yes, it's corporate and contrived, but this place can still pull off a good burger and fries, or a pork chop, smoked salmon, steak salad, etc. The problem is that people have discovered it long ago, and if you walk in without calling ahead, the wait can be long and arduous, without any decent alternative nearby (as much as I liked Kevin Grevey as a basketball player, I'm not a huge fan of his restaurant across Gallows Road). Cheers, Rocks.

Michael, This chat is a great read over the mourning coffee. What do you think of the Celebrity Chef now that you're in the process of becoming one yourself? Congratulations on your Zagat score. Are you going to use all this notoriety to leverage some office space down the street in Rosslyn and run the restaurant by video camera?

Dean, Dean, Dean, Certain things take their own time to foment – I couldn’t write about the meal last night because the time and energy to do it properly never came to the surface. For the sake of timeliness, lemme try and wing this now and rattle it off as best I can. There was angst that Enoteca Vin would not live up to itself - for whatever reason, the original posting got publicized, took on a life of its own, and made me cringe with doubt whenever I read it. But last night was as-good-or-better than my other two meals there, and now I remember what I was raving about. Dean and I talked about my love of this restaurant – maybe it’s because when someone dines out so often, they begin to yearn for simplicity, clarity and perfect execution rather than some sort of soap opera on a plate. You know, there are places that are “better” than this, and anyone in their right mind would say so (quail eggs at Marc Veyrat, duh), but this is where I want to have dinner, night-after-night, week-in and week-out - this is food to crave for its cleanliness and transparency, and for such amazing value. And the wines are soooo goood and soooo fairly priced. That platter of wasabi was fresh-grated, not powdered. When you scroll up and look at the picture of the truffle emulsion with the scallop, you'll see that in the middle is a faint dividing line of olive oil, and on the right side of the line was a white-truffle emulsion; on the left side was a black-truffle emulsion. They were both noteworthy not because they were so different from each other (they were), but because truffle oil is a terribly overused and abused condiment, often overwhelming a dish, but this was an example of how to use it correctly and with subtlety, the corn being far-and-away the primary flavor in the emulsion, and the black/white truffle being a secondary backdrop to the astounding freshness of the corn. The pork shoulder taco was something else, wasn’t it? The wine came out beforehand, and it was a 93 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans from Voillot (the label didn’t say Voillot, but that’s who made the wine). The wine by itself came off as rigid and olive-y, and I was thinking Chrish had something up his sleeve for serving this. Sure enough, the spicy taco and the marinated cabbage took the wine, and sent it up on the express elevator fourteen floors, turning it into a Grand Cru, and then the wine countered the spice in the taco, and then the taco made the wine better still, and this little fist-on-top game rose into the skies and made seemingly everyone in the restaurant rant and froth, wanting more and more. But then there was that damned egg bursting from the pasta. When I cut into the raviolo and the egg yolk started flowing out, I felt like a 15-year-old in my bed who just opened a Playboy and the centerfold popped out and came to life. And the shortribs, cooked at low heat for hours. Ashley loves low-temperature cooking, and both the pork (taco) and shortribs were just melto bone-slide essence. And the cheese, L’Ami du Chambertin, served with a 93 Perrot-Minot Charmes-Chambertin. Man. The details at this restaurant are amazing: tins of tea sitting on the side from Upton Tea Imports, cheese from Formaggio Kitchen. These places are the best sources in the country, and I fear that they go unnoticed. Did you see what was in the wine cooler? I could go on, and on, and on about this place. The time to catch Enoteca Vin is now, while Ashley is young and at the height of her powers. I worry that this cannot be sustained, and that Chrish might scale back, or that someone, somewhere in this incredible equation will burn out or throw in the towel before people get a chance to love this place. Everything is clicking now, everything is firing on all cylinders, and these things tend to have a lifespan, and they don’t last forever. Yes, this was a special meal and no doubt a borderline charity event for the restaurant, but this wasn’t really that different than the last two times I dined here, and so perhaps the heyday of Enoteca Vin is right now, in 2004. Given what’s coming out of the kitchen from Ashley Christensen, given the care and passion of Chrish Peel and the peripherals like the teas, the coffees and the cheeses, given the world-class wine list being offered at clearance prices, given the casual atmosphere and location, given that this combination of things cannot be found anywhere else within five-hundred miles at any price, given all this, let me go back out on a limb and say that Enoteca Vin is the restaurant I cherish above all others right now. I had previously contacted Ashley and was worried about whether she could pull this off on a large scale, for fifty people at a time. After the meal, she came over and leaned down, and asked me quietly: "Can I pull it off for fifty?" Yes, Ashley, you can. Rocks.

I'm a sucker for the sunken California burrito at Tippy's Taco House in Merrifield or Toucan Taco in Laurel (formerly a Tippy's). The problem is trying to eat it while driving a stickshift, as it's covered in gravy and sometimes spills over the top of the hot tin plate while going around a turn, and then you also have a half-pint of piping hot chili con queso bravely clamped between your legs, but it's safest to just pour that on top of the burrito and break some chips on top of it. See also the thread on Chipotle Grill, the best tacos and the burrito stand at 17th and K. Cheers, Rocks.

Hi Drew, As long as we've got you here, would you mind mentioning a plate or two that is going to be on the "must-try" list? Thanks! Rocks.

Hold onto your tocques, double-down your auntie, raise the stakes and fasten your seatbelts: let's all welcome chef Michael Landrum to this eGullet chat. Michael appeared on the scene three years ago, seemingly from nowhere, with vague rumors of time spent at Capital Grille, Nora's, Europe and the Middle East, and various other nefarious and forbidden locales. "I don't have the same professional pedigree as many of my more talented colleagues," says Landrum, "just a single-minded goal which I doggedly pursued over a long and convoluted path." Ray's The Steaks opened in April 2002 and is the result of that pursuit, but is still very much a work in progress. The chat will officially begin on-or-about Sunday, October 3rd, maybe Monday the 4th, but please feel free to begin submitting questions now and Michael will get to them when he can. Michael, welcome to the chat, and thank you in advance for joining us here! And here's a question: would it be accurate to consider Ray's The Steaks as being globally local, or perhaps even desperately local?

Gotta love that chocolate chip cookie at Fuddruckers. Perhaps best to walk a half-block west to Matchbox. I swear I think Roy Rogers used to be good too. I've always wanted to say this to a site manager: [user JHLurie, would you please stay on topic? Fuddruckers is a national chain, and this has no relevance to DC & DelMarVa.]

I was sent a pre-announcment that will be going out to Enoteca Vin's customers shortly: --- We've been fans of eGullet.org, an international food organization and website, for some time now. Of course, we were particularly pleased when eGullet's forum host from DC gave us such a glowing review, asking aloud whether we might be the most important restaurant south of New York City: (go here for the story: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=47464). Our interest in eGullet was further piqued when they recently announced their re-organizing to become a non-profit, tax-exempt organization known as the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The mission of eGullet is to increase "awareness and knowledge of the arts of cooking, eating and drinking, as well as the literature of food and drink." We're impressed how the folks at eGullet have taken a small bulletin board service to the next level to become the go-to place for discussions about gastronomy. When we were asked if Vin would be willing to host a dinner for the eGullet community to celebrate this important step in their development, we couldn't pass up the chance, and now we'd like to share this opportunity with you. On Sunday, October 3 at 7:00, we will be hosting an eGullet dinner with a focus on Burgundies, and we have a handful of spots remaining for this special dinner. Chef Ashley has posted her menu on eGullet and has answered several questions about the dinner, so feel free to go here for the discussion: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=51364. The cost of the event is $75 plus tax and gratuity for a total of $97.20 per person (which will be collected in full by credit card at the time you make your reservation). To make reservations, please contact our reservationist at 919.834.3070 between 1pm and 5pm, Tuesday-Saturday. Ask for Julie. You may also reach us at reservations@enotecavin.com. We'd like you to meet some of the people from eGullet, learn what their organization is all about, and while you're at it, have a great meal. And if you can't make it, please check out eGullet at www.egullet.org. These people are serious about their food, just like us. Sincerely, Ashley Christensen and the Enoteca Vin Crew

It doesn't get much worse than Roy Rogers.

[fast food, schools, hospitals, stadiums, office cafeterias, jails (yuck!), bowling alleys (yuck!) and rent-a-cut-in-half-trashcan fraternity cookouts don't count!]

Other than a hamburger had eons ago in Moscow that tasted like a plastic-wrapped vending machine version (I think I found a seed in it), the gold medal for me would have to go to Rainforest Cafe in Tysons Corner. It was like eating a box of Kleenex except drier. I'm trying to think how it could have been worse and maybe if it had a moldy bun.

The good news (at least for those in Montgomery County) is that Saignoese in Wheaton isn't bad, and probably open on Sundays, if you're going to miss the name.

Picture Gillian singing the Do-Re-Mi song: "Don't blame me for sots at da Sto"

I haven't been to the Brickskeller in years, but have tilted many a bottle in times past. Has anyone been here recently? Also, with such a large list of beers, is freshness ever an issue for the more obscure choices? Cheers (for real!), Rocks. P.S. Anyone tried the mussels? :-)

Tom, I've discussed this chat with people, and everyone thinks it has been exceptionally insightful and interesting. For me, every time I'd sign on in the morning and see a response from you, I'd read it and wish for more because your answers were so engaging. Along with pioneer Jonathan Krinn, and the brilliant trio Todd Kliman, Gillian Clark and John Wabeck, you are forever enshrined in the hearts of us. Thank you again Tom! Rocks.

Wow, this thread has gotten a lot of response. Hillvalley, the salmon was glistening with a wonderful patina of olive oil, but it was also firm, fresh and extremely subtle. The beef was very delicate too, and the delicacy of both dishes made them work side-by-side and in fact, they were originally ordered in sequence and the bartender recommended that we get them together. I hate to pick between them but you've got to go with the potato crisps on the beef dish at gunpoint. Hi Mark. In the lounge, I suspect not (I can't picture the hungover Krispy Kreme crowd lined up out the door and around the block waiting for their rillettes ), but with your connections who knows? Hi eunny, these were sliced into really thin strips that had an almost raw-giant-clam texture which was a perfect tactile foil to the ever-so-slight crisp remaining on the marinated onions. Raisab, no the foie gras wasn't a rillettes; I saw it from a distance, and our server implied that it was a traditional bloc which I assume means they source whole lobes and press them although I can't be certain. Cheers! Rocks. --- P.S. Thanks.

Hmm ... going from visual memory here. Top item was pork, second one was duck, last one was the foie-gras... third one was ... salmon I think, but don't hold me to this. Our bartender (both bartenders were very good) briefly explained how these were made in-house. I don't remember the exact details, but they reflected quality and care, and it showed on the plate. The toasted brioche was perfectly made, but I wished there were more than eight of them for this ample jar of rillettes which was served a touch too cold (I prefer rillettes served at room temperature although in a new restaurant (where they're making them earlier and guessing how many need to be served at the bar) that can't be easy to control). Be careful about going for a rillettes after work and showing up with a twenty. You'll either valet park here or feel like a groundling, and your evening will cost something pushing $50 for parking, rillettes, one drink, tax and tips for the server and valet. It is possible to eat affordably here (I've become the master at this), but there's definitely a fixed cost to one person bopping in for a quick nibble.

Approaching the hotel from the northern perspective, one appreciates the scallop atop the majestic batiment, the crescendo of grandeur as one strolls slowly across the trestle, winding across the expansive exterior foyer, disappearing into the frosted glass porticos. Translation: if you're a cheap fuck like me, park across the railroad tracks and check your car insurance beforehand. I went through the majority of the lounge menu at CityZen this evening. Here's the scoop: The drink menu is impressive, with page-after-page of interesting and thoughtful choices, ranging from the affordable (fine selection of quality beers for $6, Bouchard Montagny for $9, a fabulous, traditional Sidecar for $10) to the hilarious ("Jack Daniels is Using his Blackberry in Tennessee" - a whiskey drink made with blackberry puree) to the insane (a $650 glass of Cognac: take your pick from among three of them). Three dozen vodkas, a dozen rums. [note: it's hard to believe so many millions of dollars would go into this restaurant, and they wouldn't pay someone $100 to spend thirty minutes spellchecking their drink menu] The toro of marinated salmon and beef tartare (in the $13-14 range each) are flat-out great, and perfect ordered side-by-side. I cannot rave enough about these great little plates - if you're on a budget, scarf a few handfuls of nuts to fill up on, and then order one of them. The potato crisps that come with the beef tartare are the best thing approaching a potato chip that I've ever tasted and must be tried to be believed - just try and eating a waffle fry at Chick-Fil-A when you've had one of these babies. But contrast these with the porcini soup with Madras curry puree (a dollop of vegetable creme spooned atop the soup, $10), which was a no-holds-barred failure. The proportion of (cool) puree -to- (hot) soup was excessively high, and the puree was overtly curried to the point of being dry-spice gross. This soup will either change or come off the menu in the near future (trust me). Braised ox heart with Bermuda onions ($10 or so) was perfectly executed, and a stunning combination of salt(ox)-and-sweet(onions), fat(ox)-and-acid(onions), earthen(ox)-and-colorful(onions), warm(ox)-and-cool(onions). I was worried about this dish because I've seen similar things in the past that are clunky-gamey and crunchy-thick-oniony, but this was just a perfect combination of a well-conceived recipe supported by great work in the kitchen. Speaking of the (semi-open) kitchen, I smiled when I walked past, looked over, and noticed the consummate professional Ron Tanaka (former saucier at Citronelle), front and center, working the line furiously, hopping and sweating, looking like he was trying to stop a dam from bursting. Everyone that knows Ron likes him, and it's nice to see this hard-working and talented chef here at CityZen, sure to get the credit he richly deserves. At the bottom of the lounge menu, there are four intimidating dishes: three rillettes (low $20s) and a foie-gras ($42), all served in a preserving jar. In no way should you run from the prices of these dishes, as they are enough for two or three people to share, and worth it. The duck rillettes was everything you could possibly hope for, served with cornichons and brioche presented in an interesting nod to (rip-off from? message about?) Citronelle's fries: rectangular prisms, stacked perpendicularly in twos, well... if you've had Citronelle's fries before, you'll instantly recognize what I mean here. After dinner comes the cheese course (if you're quirky and want to go backwards on the menu to order it), and this California Saint-Marcellin-looking disk (I cannot remember the name of the cheese) is baked up in a little ramekin and comes out looking like a small order of hummus, served with terrific housemade pita bread and a pear chutney with pine nuts in it. This middle-eastern riff was clever and cheeky, but it simply didn't work - the hot cheese tasting blue (it wasn't blue) and acrid, and dominating every other component on the dish. Four brilliant plates, two misses, excellent service and atmosphere, great and imaginative drinks (the wines by the glass are merely decent, not great). Not at all bad considering how short a time they've been open, and at the highest heights, this meal was a clear indication that CityZen Lounge is going to be in its own right, apart from CitiZen the Restaurant, a worthy destination for fine dining. Cheers! Rocks. P.S. CityZen Restaurant currently offers 3 courses (app, main, dessert) for $70 or a 5-course tasting menu (app, fish, meat, cheese, dessert) for $90 (nothing on the tasting menu was on the 3-course menu, but the styles of the offerings were similar. My (excellent) bartender told me that he'd see if they could serve me the 3-course at the bar, although I was perfectly content to explore the Lounge Menu instead. They are not booked for next week at this point - as of this evening, they had openings at any time next Wednesday or Thursday nights, for those curious earlybirds among us. P.P.S. The meal this evening got rather extensive, and when I asked for a copy of the lounge menu to take with me, they politely declined, saying it was against hotel policy to give out the menu for now, so I'm recalling all of these plates from memory, with the appropriate disclaimers if I miss something, but I think I'm pretty close to accurate as I was paying serious attention to what came out tonight.

There's a reason Steve Klc doesn't have any vowels in his last name: he killed them all because they went off-topic. Can we stay on-topic and leave the chat for the Semi-Spontaneous-Whatcha-Doin-Tonight thread? Otherwise you're going to have a dead forum host. Grimly, Rocks. [Edit - puns, clever writing, etc. are fine (and these were all pretty funny actually), but before you click on that "Submit Post" button, do at least read through your posting and make sure it would be informative to a newcomer visiting here for the first time (that's a pretty good benchmark, I think), and make sure it has something to do with the title of the thread. Thank you! DonRocks, Tsar. (unfortunately, however, I'm not Tsar and have to answer to higher powers here! Cheers!)]

stretch-a-roo, After a visit last night, I can answer your question: nope, no outdoor tables at Buck's. Cheers, Rocks.