Andy Lynes

Dinner at Margot's 24 July 2003 Having spent 12 or so hours in the kitchens at Margot’s (see here for details), I was looking forward to a relaxed evening in the dining room. A pre-dinner drink at the harbour side Old Custom House pub saw me make a super human effort and not introduce myself to Rick Stein who was getting in a round whilst I sat supping a pint at the bar. A good networking opportunity I know, but he looked so determined not to talk to anyone I thought I'd best take the hint. Although Margot's is small, tables are well spaced and rarely, if ever, turned. Adrian makes a very welcoming host, and seems to gain as much pleasure from serving his customers as he does cooking for them. The menu is short and full of good stuff to eat, as you can see here. I chose the special of mackerel caught that day served with tomato and red onion salad, the wife going for the scallops with bacon and balsamic. Really spanking fresh mackerel simply grilled, as it was here, is as much of a treat as wild bass or salmon in my opinion. The pair dished up to me were cooked to perfection. Gill's five scallops had been similarly treated and finished with a butter enriched pan sauce spiked with the vinegar. The Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru from Margot's excellent wine list slipped down without too much effort and matched the food well. Mark up over retail prices are very low indeed by industry standards, enabling you to drink as well as you eat. A rare thing indeed. Mains of cod and lamb were generously proportioned plates of the sort of food you wish every "backstreet bistro" would have the good taste and intelligence to serve. The fish was of a sufficient thickness to allow it to roast properly without drying out the flesh. This was spread with a mixture of sun blush tomatoes, marinated (not tinned) anchovies and garlic which lent an agreeable piquancy to the dish. Herb mash and a good butter sauce made me want to finish the every last mouthful, although I ultimately failed in my ambition. The rosy pink lamb came in the form of a herb crusted rack carved and resting on "stacked" potatoes i.e. sliced, mixed with onions and cooked in lots and lots of butter. The result is like a huge pile of the topper most spuds from a hotpot. Man (and in this case woman) cannot live by Dave's rosemary bread alone, but in addition must gorge themselves on stacked potatoes. The meat was meltingly tender, but full of lamby flavour, enhanced by a glisteningly clear jus. Although richly coloured, this was not an over- reduced sticky sauce and therefore did its job of adding interest and lubrication without stealing the show. Margot's employ any number of local suppliers for their produce, with even the bamboo steamer of vegetables consisting mostly of whatever has been delivered that day. These are simply blanched in a vat of boiling water to order and quite rightly draw numerous compliments. A short break was in order before dessert, which gave us the opportunity to try a glass of the delicious house Pico Alto Sauvignon Blanc as the Monterachet was a goner by this point. Margot's menu is made up of many favorites, but none more so than the Sticky Toffee Pudding with Butterscotch Sauce, made to the Sharrow Bay recipe, which Gill made disappear with consummate ease. I went for the saffron poached pear with clotted cream and jelly, a near equal in popularity and a very fine note on which to end the meal. Yet more booze, in the form of Elysium Black Muscat, accompanied the puddings. The bill for all of this was £88.00 plus service, although we benefited from a wine "upgrade". If Brighton had a bistro that diligently sourced the best local produce and treated it with respect, employed the appropriate amount of creativity but lacked even a hint of hubris; if it had a wine list full of interesting bottles keenly priced and served it all up in comfortable surroundings with staff that fully understood the concept of hospitality, then you would know where to find me most days of the week. As it is, there are precious few places in the entire country fitting that description. The 6 hour drive from my home to Padstow means that I will necessarily be an irregular customer at Margot's, but the occasions I do manage to get there will be greatly treasured.

I was amused to read in The Guardian on Saturday's "The Guide" that they singled out "New dishes are added all the time" as being the high point of The Fat Duck. Shurly shume mishtake?

But of course! Thanks.

I'm struggling with the reference to "El Gordo" in the title of this topic. Anyone care to shed any light?

That's the shit. Is that a good or bad thing?

They did indeed, but John Foxx was long gone by that time, replaced by Midge Ure.

From the sound of the menu, with its burgers and potted shrimps etc, it sounds like a very different ball game from the restaurant and grill room. It will also be served by it's own dedicated kitchen.

Angela Hartnett's Terrace is now open for business at the Connaught Hotel. Seating 35, the terrace has been constructed on the corner of Mount Street and Carlos place. The menu draws on Mediterranean influences, as you will see by clicking here. Its open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week, so what with the lovely weather and everything, you've got no excuse not to go really. (Info courtesy of Sauce Communications)

Ed's in Brightin was part of a small chain. They are still trading in the Bluewater shopping centre in Kent and in central London I believe.

The Zap is still going strong. The last time I was there, Psychic TV were throwing a party to celebrate the release back into the wild of the last dolphin from the Brighton Aquarium, and war was declared on Iraq whilst they were on stage. A strange evening all round really.

The Juggs is good, plus they have quite a nice play area for the kids. In town, I have just discovered the Basketmakers Arms in Gloucester Street, just behind the Gloucester nightclub, which is a proper boozer, albeit one full of middle class professionals. Just opposite is the Eagle pub and bakery which I really must get around to trying soon.

Grubbs are still going strong. I used to live just around the corner from Kemptown branch which was an after pub staple for my wife and I, in the days when we used to go to the pub together. I haven't had a Grubbs in a very longtime but I used to think they were pretty good. I was also quite partial to the odd chili burger from Uncle Sams, also still trading, but again have not had the pleasure for many years.

Woodies Diner near to Hove lagoon is a 50's style diner, decked out in shinly melamine, sparkly leatherette chairs and surf boards hung from the ceiling. Think "Ed's Easy Diner" goes Beach Boys. The menu is made up of pizza, burgers and wraps plus heart stoppingly rich desserts. Breakfasts are also available from 10.00am. Full menu details are on the website. This place is a real find, with only its slightly out of town location a drawback for visitors to the city, although dead handy no doubt for Fatboy Slim and Zoe Ball who live just around the corner (no idea if they eat in the place however). Burgers are 8oz, nicely cooked and garnished with decent-ish fat chips, probably out of the deep freeze. Service is excellent, attentive, friendly and very tolerant of kids. Dinner for 4 with cokes came to £36.00 plus service.

Please note : some of these links may require free registration to view. Matthew Norman gets his suit on to eat at Tom Aikens. Giles Coren tries the bread and wine at the new St John outpost. Jan Moir is in Scotland. Everyone else is wondering why. Matthew Fort in Northern Ireland. Belfast also. Jay Rayner checks out an old banger or two at the hilariously named S & M cafe. Oh, my aching sides. AA Gill at Wiltons The new Observer Food Monthly is now available online. Chef Rowley Leigh is thrilled to the very marrow. Ramsay Cooks Summer. Tom Conran on the bourgeoise. Andrew Catchpole discovers white port. Nigel Slater in a shell suit. Tim Atkin investigates cheap US booze. Jan MacQuitty's top Summer Wines. Jill Dupleix in the herb garden.

She doesn't know the full Cotswold House story. I did tell her that I only got as far as the first services on the M40 before I had to stop and take a short nap before I felt safe to continue, due to my "tired and emotional" state. I should also point out that our conference was for myself and immeadiate team members, all of whom are male.

The two desserts I tried "Mandarin Mousse on Pain d'épices Chocolate Nougatine, Salted Butter Caramel Ice Cream" and "Iced Strawberry Parfait with Hot Banana Spring Rolls and Fruit Paysanne" were good, and the chocolate fondant a collegue had was apparently very good. By tweaking I really meant that the mandarin flavour could have been more forceful in the mousse and possibly the ratio of banana to casing in the spring rolls could have been increased, but thats a personal thing possibly. Overall, my experience was that the desserts, although good, enjoyable to eat and well presented were not as strong as the rest of the menu, which I thought was excellent. Having said that, the creme brulees served as part of the buffet lunch were great.

I did sleep in it, it was just that I didn't get to it until 6.00am, and even then I had to climb through a window! Its a fairly long story and not even half as interesting as you might think it could be.

Found at last, the missing 4th chapter of "The Book".

Just a pie and mash stand in Warrington. The "808 Plate" is their biggest seller I believe.

I realise I was asking for it by putting the 808 refence in the subtitle. I'm sure we can allow ourselves a mild wander slightly off the beaten food and drink track now and again can't we?

Off topic warning - I'm going to answer this question then that will have to be it. 808 State are named after the Roland TR 808 drum machine they used.

...and no would ever have known if it wasn't for you pesky kids!!

Doesn't seem to have much of any sort of identity to me. All a bit mixed up isn't it? Not that that is to say it won't taste good, but the menu alone doesn't make me want to rush to make a booking. Any idea where you can get good Shanghai food in central London?

In the world of restaurant PR it does. Exact quote, describing all of Will Rickers restaurants says : "...food which spans South East Asia with an emphasis at Eight Over Eight on China and, in particular, Shanghai". According to Encarta - "South East Asia, region of Asia comprising the Indochinese and Malay peninsulas and several nearby island groups. The region is bordered on the north by China; on the east by the South Pacific Ocean; on the south by the Indian Ocean; and on the west by the Indian Ocean, the Bay of Bengal, and the Indian subcontinent. Microsoft® Encarta® Encyclopedia 2003. © 1993-2002 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved." Shanghai is in Eastern China so it seems you are correct that they are incorrect. Well done sir!

Outrageous! I recommend they stop lurking and get their own back.