Ragda Chaat

[Suvir Saran]

At the moment he was cooking and I’m sure he was telling himself that the unbearable heat of the day was making this afternoon’s work that much more of an act of love. The crazy thing about Kabir is not just that he believes this but that after hanging out with him for a while, I do, too.

The kitchen was a small unremarkable New York apartment kitchen just large enough to house a table and the usual appliances. On one wall was a good sized pantry usefully stuffed with dry goods including a lot of Indian food like dried lentils and beans, unusual types of flour, jars of spices, containers, grocery bags and a large selection of Kabir’s homemade Indian pickles. That day, Kabir was at the stove cooking dried white peas into a ragda chaat, a dish of peas flavored with spices, lemon juice and fresh cilantro, for his good friend Liz, outspoken restaurant critic and soft-porn novelist. Ragda chaat is Indian street food, one of a spectrum of dishes sold by vendors who hustle masses of people on the streets of India with their made-to-order snacks. Kabir had told me that Liz was a passionate fan of Indian street food, his in particular.

One day, watching her tucking amorously into his food, Kabir suggested to me that Liz’s love of street food was no coincidence: in all cultures, the pleasure of this kind of food lies not in subtlety but in its boldness and savor. Liz herself is smart, blunt, and raw in that way New Yorkers can be – utterly civilized and engagingly boorish at the same time.

[Suvir Saran]

Kabir stood and turned back to the stove to check on the peas. As he pressed one gently between his fingers to make sure that it was tender, the phone rang. He reached across the table to the phone hanging on the wall. He spoke at length into it and then hung up, pleased. “Good. There’s another guest for the evening. Govind is minus Garrett, his muse,” he said, rolling his eyes, “and was wondering what we’re up to.” (Despite his sweetness, Kabir is not “nice”. I like him for that.) “It’s only his second fourth of July here in New York – I took from his tone that he wanted to join our plans. So I told him to come over at eight thirty.”

Kabir turned back to the peas. He measured out about a cupful, mashed and stirred them into the whole peas in the pot. By now the water had evaporated. The beans were dry. He stirred in more salt and ground cumin, then squeezed in the juice from a cut-up lemon on the table. He stirred in some chili powder, handfuls of chopped cilantro – no measuring – and the ragda was done.

“Put a lot of cumin in it.” Geoff, Kabir’s lover of several years, lounged in the doorway looking at his partner with a half-mocking smile that spoke of his affection for both Kabir and the food. “It’s really good with a lot of cumin.“

I stood up from the table and went to the stove to taste the peas. “Where do you get these? Not in the supermarket?”

“No”, answered Kabir. “I get them at my Indian grocery store. In India we can buy white and green peas, both dried.”

“What happened with Govind?” Geoff asked.

“I invited him, of course. Who else shall we ask?”

[Suvir Saran]

I love Ragda (White peas). You can buy them at most any Indian grocery store.

Ragda is especially perfect in the summer. No oil in its preparation, it is light, spicy and addictive.

I serve it topped with chopped onions, chiles, cilantro and lemon juice.

[anil]

While we were in the W Village this (Sat) evening, a sudden craving for ragda got us to it down at Mirchi for a quick bite. I'm beginning to appreciate Mirchi's mixed drinks every time I visit -- maybe it's the barkeep that distracts my concentration

[Suvir Saran]

While we were in the W Village this (Sat) evening, a sudden craving for ragda got us to it down at Mirchi for a quick  bite. I'm beginning to appreciate Mirchi's mixed drinks every time I visit -- maybe it's the barkeep that distracs my concentration 

Mirchis ragda while not authentic to the Maharashrian style, is more UP style and authentic at that and very tasty. I also happen to like their pattice (note spelling). The founding owners wife is a Parsi and so they have lived with this stuff.

I also love Mirchis bhel puri and several other chaat dishes.

[Brad S]

Would Moong Dal or Dal Curry be considered "Street food"

[anil]

Would Moong Dal or Dal Curry be considered "Street food"

No. I doubt it. However, PauBhaji is street food.

[Brad S]

Can you define what "street food" is to someone who is trying to learn?

Thanks

[Suvir Saran]

Street food refers to food one would easily find on the streets of different Indian cities.

I am sure you understood that... Sorry if I am being too anal retentive here. That was not the intent.

Indian street food is very different from what you will find in the US. Indians will eat dishes that require great tactile fingers for their consumption with very little care. Years of eating these dishes has trained their hands to be able to eat them with the most humble and mediocre utensils.

Indian street foods change from region to region. They can be deep fried, steamed, stews, lentils and rice, breads that are stuffed, can be chaats, can be things as simple as grilled spice-rubbed corn on the cob. All depends on the season and region.

Several threads have explored Indian streed foods. I will attempt to find you links and pertinent details. I am sure the other members will have tons of feedback as well.

If you ever find yourself in NYC.. go to Dimple Chaat, they serve several of the Indian street food dishes from one location.

[Brad S]

Street food refers to food one would easily find on the streets of different Indian cities.

I am sure you understood that... Sorry if I am being too anal retentive here.  That was not the intent.

Not at all Suvir,

The only stupid question is the one not asked.

That is why I asked about Indian street food because I am a novice when it comes to the cultural and physical meanings in regards to India.

I believe givin ingredients and some direction I could with confidence prepare many, many foods of India,but that does not afford me the right to comment beyond my understanding

[Suvir Saran]

Dimple chaat and eGulleteers

Dimple Chaat thread

[Suvir Saran]

What is Chaat?

[Suvir Saran]

The Bhaji is a mixed vegetable mush.. Literally like mashed potatoes with onions, tomatoes, green peas and whatever other vegetables one can find and mash.

I wish I could tell you what the Pav Bhaji Masala has.  I will check the package and see if they list the spices.  I have had some home made Pav Bhaji which never comes close to the version prepared with a store bought spice mix.

The Pav (bread) is simple hot dog bun type bread.  

The mash is served with bread and onions tossed with lime and freshly chopped cilantro leaves.  

Green chilies are optional.

I can eat a lot of t his dish.  And those that really love it authentic also add a lot, and I really mean a lot of butter to the dish.  The more butter added to the dish while preparing it and as a garnish in the end, the better the dish tastes.

Pav Bhaji Thread

[Suvir Saran]

Samosas... the most common North Indian street food.

samosa thread