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Florida Jim

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1995 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Le L d’Or:

Notes of bleach, sea air, warm stones, white pepper and lime skin on the nose; similar on the palate with a richness borne of its age, good structure and some hints of decay, balanced and giving evidence of development; long, crisp finish with lots of nuance. I prefer the Clos des Allées from this house (a single vineyard, as opposed to L d’Or’s cuvée) but this is excellent and, at eleven years of age, just beginning to develop its secondary character. BTW, I recommend serving this in a Bordeaux stem (or something similar); it seems to come alive in a bigger bowl. Thanks Bill.

2001 Egon Müller, Riesling Kabinett Scharzhofberger:

Very, very young but stuffed with mineral, cut, white fruit potential. A little time in the decanter rounds it out only slightly – hold this for at least another decade. $25 on release and I would pay that again.

2002 R. & V. Dauvissat, Chablis:

Has shed some of its baby fat and is now the quintessential Chablis with a lemon-zest and mineral nose; a laser sharp but balanced palate and a very long finish, especially for a village wine. A wine of good cut, good depth, intensity and utterly of its place. $25 on release and I would certainly pay that again.

2001 Moreira, Douro Poeira:

Made with five port grapes, fermented dry, unfortified, 13% alcohol; somewhat polished on the attack with strong berry and dark, pit fruit flavors, nicely balanced, structured and somewhat rustic on the finish. The slightest hint of spicy oak does not detract from an interesting, tannic and powerfully flavored wine. Good now; will hold. $30 on sale; I would pay that again.

Dinner with friends:

2005 Merry Edwards, Sauvignon Blanc:

Really nice; clean, crisp, full flavored and well balanced. Lovely juice. Price unknown.

2003 Copain, Pinot Noir Hein Vnyd.:

That wonderful Anderson Valley crisp and crackling delivery with good depth and mostly black fruit flavors and aromas. Very good with and without food. Price unknown.

1999 Jasmin, Côte Rôtie (magnum):

Elegant, of its place, showing young but more open than expected; superb with our dinners and, I think, everyone (several diverse palates) enjoyed it. $72 wholesale; I would pay that again.

2001 Merus, Cabernet Sauvignon:

Not even remotely identifiable as cabernet – maybe shiraz from a hot climate. Tolerable when first opened, decent, albeit simple, after awhile – but this will never ring my bells. Price unknown.

1996 Dal Forno, Amarone:

Big, only very slightly rasined, strongly flavored but without nuance or any identifiable character. 17.5% alcohol. Price unknown.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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