Istanbul

[anil]

Before I begin: Asia or Europe ?

Moderator note: this message was slightly edited to include the "asia or europe" question which originally was in the topic title. After merging this thread with a newer one both dedicated to Istambul the title was modified and the sense would have been lost.

Edited March 24, 2006 by albiston (log)

[peterpumkino]

Yes, what?

[Miguel Gierbolini]

Istanbul is both in Europe and in Asia. But I think the turks consider themselves closer to Europe; they play soccer in the European group to qualify for the World Cup, they want to join the European Union, so I guess that it is appropriate to post about Istanbul here.

[robert brown]

Miguel, the place struck me as more European. Have you been, or are you going?

[Miguel Gierbolini]

Robert, I have not been there yet. One of my dearest friends lives there and we have had many communications about the subject. Istanbul is in my short list of places to visit.

[anil]

OK, OK, I guess I've been swamped with other stuff, so I have not been

able to write about my IST trip Anyday Now, Anyday .......

BTW, only 3% of .TR is in Europe, their Capital, Ankara is in Asia ---

But their soul wants to be European

[pnarena]

Greetings all,

I am off to Turkey at the end of the month, and would welcome any restaurant/food recommendations in Istanbul, and the other important cities in Turkey. I will also be traveling along the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts, and to Ankara as well.

Any help would be appreciated.

[LaNiña]

Well, how lovely to see you posting here, Mr. A.

Just bring me my friggin' cigars.

[tighe]

Food in Turkey, one of my favorite subjects!!

In Istanbul, it's kind of hard to go too far wrong as long as you stay away from the most touristy places. My reccomendations would be:

Develi - a kebab house not far from the main tourist area of the city. Steve Raichlen chose it as one of his 10 favorite grill restaurants in the world. I was duly impressed

Tugra in the Ciragan Palace Hotel - pretty much the ultimate for high end Ottoman/Turkish food. The meal I had there was spectacular both in terms of the food and the setting. It's expensive by Turkish standards, but not by American. One warning: avoid the chicken desert at all costs

Pandeli in the Spice Market - very good food and good place to stop for lunch.

There's also a lot of good street (or boat) food in Istanbul. Down on the waterfront you will see fishermen selling grilled mackerel and other fish from their boats. It's great!

Over in the Beyoglu district (accross the Golden Horn) there are a couple large markets that have a variety of great food to offer.

If you're going to travel along the coast, try to stop in Dalyan in the southwest. It's a really interesting little town that hasn't been overrun by tourists (yet). There are some really great fish restaurants there along the river. Near the center of town there is a completely non-descript place that serves the best lamb sandwiches ever. Look for line of locals out the door at lunch time.

Have a great time!!

[anil]

When we visit places (cities) that have a rich culinary tradition, we tend to mx it up with one or two highend places and lots of local holein-the-wall but excellent eateries -- be it Paris, HongKong,Buenos Aires,London and ofCourse Istanbul. I shall write about some of those snippets when I have some downtime

[anil]

Istiklal Cadd.

This is a street that runs from Taksim Sq. as a mostly pedestrian street - where youngsters hang-out before hours, after hours -- all the hours; full of music stores, clubs and ofcourse restaurants - Mostly Kebabsi, and Buffe's type of places. The small restaurants off the side streets offer great value when you order the meze and maybe one main dish.

Off this Cadd. is a covered fish-market mixed up with a few small restaurants that serve fish.

While 95% of Turkiie is moslem, I found no letup in the restaurants around the city during ramazan - Maybe some restaurants were closed - Nearly all places had special 'iftar' specialities.

As you wander down Istiklal, watching the beautiful young people going in and out of music stores, some of which blaring hip-hop indian music-via-London-DJ-scene, you begin to notice the power of youth in determining kinds of eateries on this street - al reasnable and good value. Also youll notice women sitting by the window-side using rolling-pins to roll dough -This is the making of gozleme, very much like stufed parathas -actually it is just aout anykind of stuffings onto the dough which is then folded an baked on a reverse-tava (convex tava) this dish goes great with ayran - yogourt drink - just like a lassi. Do not give up on the opportunity to visit one of these places and sample the gozlemes.

You'll find some places kebabcis which are very simlar to Manhattan salad-bars where you pay by the weight or dish and sit in a table upstairs or in the back - These places have very inticing displays of food meant to tempt

Then there is the Cicek Pasaji - Off the cad. a covered souk adjunct to the fish maket - This is a group of restaurants with tables out on the covered souk Cicek Pasaji Any time of the day you can snack on street food from stalls or Buffes -the most popular being Lahmacum Turkish thin pizza, or Iskender Kebabs.

Breakfast

Most hotels include breakfast - Ours is no different - Overlooking the square we had lazy breakfast which consists of the normal assortments of juices,cheeses,variety of olives, breads, meats&eggs and honey in the hive.

Fish Restaurants in the islands

We took a boat trip (two mils each way, 12cents approx)

to an island where there are los of wooden houses from another era - still in use, but mostly as

summer homes of second-tier wealhy folks. These islands have excellent fish restaurants - so calld because thy have a display of fresh catch of the day - atleast a few different kind - The fish is grilled,steamed,baked,fried anyway you want it - Quite inexpensive. Of!Course served with assortments of mezes.

Drinking

Turkslve thir drink - hence there was problem getting beer at any restaurant,bufe,kebabci etc. A favourite drink to try once is raki, with water ofcourse because it is strong - Raki is like the greek ouzo. When you wander around the grand(Covered ) bazzar, shoping, any a mall knoo-corner places will serve you apple-tea another turkey speciality.

..... more later .......

Edited December 14, 2002 by anil (log)

[ajay]

Thanks for the report, Anil, keep em comming

[Suvir Saran]

Looking forward to more Anil. Many thanks!

[anil]

Hotel Restaurants

While most 5 star hotels in IST have a few ecelctic restaurants - The one we know of is where we stayed the past two trips - Panaroma on top of The Marmara Hotel - Marmara is probably the highest hotel in IST, given that Taksim Sq is on top of a hill. While the view is great at night, and nightly entertainment OK, Turkish food is surprisingly good if one sticks to fish. Mezes are as usual the high point.

On the main lobby level is the Brasserie where the daily complimentary breakfast is served; and dinner is mostly international, which translates as italian, greek, and a bit of french thrown in.

On the street level is the Cafe - open late, this is where we made our last stop of the day for an appertif and assortment of turkish desserts - kadayif or asure; my favourite - Asure is pudding with different kinds of nuts.

Spice Bazaar & Eminonu

Spice bazaar and the surrounding outdoor areas are fascinating place to snack on - from pistachio candies, locum (Turkish delight) to stuffed mussels. Or have a spice tea. Turkish coffee is not for the faint-hearted In the adjoining streets, steet-vendors and B&M shops, sell everything from knock-off jeans,CDs,porn to viagra - You name-it-theyhave-it, akin to night market in Kowloon. Inside the spice bazaar, apart from spices, one can get both Iranian and Russian caviar at prices unheard of in EU & the US.

The Grand Bazaar

This is the mega souk of all souks. Literally thousands of shops of all kind. What is interesting are the small restaurants that dish out basic fare for shopkeepers and customers alike at very reasonable prices. You will not go hungry for under 2USD. The most expensive being bottled beer for a buck. Outside the Bazaar, fresh juice stands, kebabcis as well as lachmun places are abound, all meals under 3USD.

The kitchen in the Tokapi Palace

At its peak, the Ottoman Empire had enormous wealth and Istanbul was the trading center. Needless to say, one should visit the grandest of all kitchen museum in Topkapi Palace - On display are the china and sliverware from the world over - The royal kitchen had over 200 cooks whipping up three meals a day for the Sultan & his wazirs and the vast harem

[marktynernyc]

I'll be greeting my 40th in Istanbul this October - after researching here and

elsewhere I have a tentative list of the places i'm considering. I know some of

them are bit standard but it's my first visit to Istanbul.

Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Not sure for my

birthday dinner to go to Korfez or Tugra - any opinions?

DINNER:

Korfez

Korfez Caddesi 78, Kanlica, 413-4314

Balikci Sabahattin

Cankurtaran Sait Hasan Kuyu Solak 1,

Sultanhamet, 458-1824

(behind the Armada hotel)

Daruzziyafe

http://www.daruzziyafe.com.tr/default.htm

Tugra, Ciragan Palace

Sunset Grill

5KAT

Park Fora

Muallim Naci Caddesi 134,

Cemil Topuzlu Parki, Kurucesme, 265-5063

Haci Adullah, Beyoglu

Sakiz Agaci Caddesi 17, Beyoglu, TAKSIM

BACK UP:

Kiyi

Kefelikoy Caddesi 126, Tarabya, 262 0002

LUNCH:

Armada Hotel terrace

http://www.armadahotel.com.tr/index.shtm

restaurant in Uskudas

Haci Baba, Taksim

Pandeli, Spice Bazaar

Kumkapi, Istiklal, Nevizade Street - pedestrian restaurant streets

Feriye (very close to Ciragan)

Mavi Yesil, Kurucesme

Muallim Naci Sokak 170,

Kurucesme, 265 5481

ALTERNATES:

Galata Bridge cafes - you can have a wonderful view

of the Eminonu Pier and the Topkapi, with all the

ferries coming and going. Specially nice for the sunsets,

you can have a wonderful view of the Istanbul skyline

[tighe]

Just reading your list and thinking about these places makes my mouth water...

I would put in a strong plug for Tugra. Goregeous location and one of the most memorable meals of my life.

You probably don't want/need to put even more places on the list, but two that I would highly recommend are the kebab house Develi and the restaurant at the hotel Yesil Ev. Develi is well known and Steve Raichlen chose it as one of the 20 best grill/barbecue restaurants in the world. For all this pub, when I was there, I was the only non-Turk I saw/heard. Yesil Ev is a small hotel in between Aya Sophia and the Blue Mosque. The have a gorgeous garden out back where dinner is served.

Enjoy and please, please, please post about your experiences.

DEVELI RESTAURANT

Balýkpazarý G.yüzük Sk No:7 Samatya

YESIL EV

Kabasakal Cad. 5 , Sultanahmet,

[anil]

I have generically written about food in IST in this forum (check the archives) - Last month, most of our meals were at places not really accessible to general tourist, hence no elaborate trip reports. However, I could comment about late-late night (or early morning) post night-club hangover food Tripe Soup !!!!

It would be advisable to have only one or two restaurants selected in advance, and let the rest of your meals go with the flow.

We had mezes and Pils beer at the mouth of Bosphorous & Black Sea - Breathtaking views. The sleepy village not know to any tourist (on the asian side of .TR)

Not to talk about endless rounds of mezes, Fresh fish chosen to be cooked on the spot, and a bottle of raki over a period of many hours watching ships go by till it was dark............

Do try Gozlemes in the Grand Bazar, Eat outside the mosque by the bridge in Ortakay (sp?) and do not get tempted to things I would not get tempted to Watch your wallet. Enjoy Constantinopole a.k.a Istanbul

[tighe]

We had mezes and Pils beer at the mouth of Bosphorous & Black Sea - Breathtaking views.  The sleepy village not know to any tourist (on the asian side of .TR)

Not sure if this is the same place I went, but taking the ferry up the Bosphorus to the village at the end of the line is a worthwhile experience. We had a great lunch of deep fried mussels and grilled mackrel at one of the waterside restaurants.

[anil]

We had mezes and Pils beer at the mouth of Bosphorous & Black Sea - Breathtaking views.  The sleepy village not know to any tourist (on the asian side of .TR)

Not sure if this is the same place I went, but taking the ferry up the Bosphorus to the village at the end of the line is a worthwhile experience. We had a great lunch of deep fried mussels and grilled mackrel at one of the waterside restaurants.

You probably went to one by the islands. This place has no ferry boats going to it. I went to the place you mentioned in '02.

[Nikolaus]

Korfez is very nice, but I think it is better for lunch. This for two reasons: On one side, the car trip to the place takes a long time, about 50 minutes from the centre (They have a private boat, too, but as far as I experienced, it does not reach the heart of the town); second, the terrace right on the bosphorus and the view are nice with daylight, while the interior is somewhat dated and not very interesting. Mixed entrees and fish in salt crust as main dish, I had a very good experience in a sunny day.

Pandeli is very trtaditional and also good for lunch, especially if embedded in a tour to the Galata harbour and the Spice market (it's actually on top of the latter).

Finally, I would try to avoid eating in Hotels, it is almost always boring if not disappointing (it actually was in all three hotels I have stayed at: Four Seasons, Ciragan, Sultanahmet Palace).

The best idea is indeed to make it "spontaneous"

[fresh_a]

Funny, I heard the Four Seasons had the best restaurant in Turkey.

[tighe]

Funny, I heard the Four Seasons had the best restaurant in Turkey.

Their website says that they were recently voted the best hotel restaurant in Turkey. I didn't eat there when I was in Istanbul, but from what I saw of their menu it is clearly not a Turkish restaurant per se. There are some local items on the menu, but most of is would best be described as 'Continental.' They may in fact do a very nice job with it. My guess is that the people voting on this award were international travellers who weren't necessarily looking for an authentic Turkish dining experience. Interestingly, when my sister stayed there, the hotel actually did not recommend their own restaurant.

Finally, I would try to avoid eating in Hotels, it is almost always boring if not disappointing (it actually was in all three hotels I have stayed at: Four Seasons, Ciragan, Sultanahmet Palace).

I can only hope that this statement refers to one of the other restaurants in the Ciragan Palace and not Tugra. If it is Tugra, the place has gone severely downhill or....I don't have another explanation. The chef there has done a ton of research in an attempt to recreate the cuisine of the Ottoman court. I wouldn't say that I loved everything I had, but it certainly wasn't because it was boring or poorly prepared. There were just certain flavors I didn't particularly care for, but the experience of the meal was incomparable.

Edited July 28, 2003 by tighe (log)

[Nikolaus]

Yes tighe, I apologize and You are right: in the Ciragan it was one of the other restaurants, with an annoying "mediterranean" influence. I had casually lunch there when visiting a friend who was staying at the hotel and invited me; I even did not know about the main one You mentioned.

As to the Four Seasons, this was the point: I felt it was a "Hotel restaurant", accurate but continental, and therefore boring, since I was on a trip for something more authentic. But I had a dinner there the first evening when arriving and staying there. I was just not in mood to go around one hour after stepping down the plane.

[tighe]

Yes tighe, I apologize and You are right: in the Ciragan it was one of the other restaurants, with an annoying "mediterranean" influence. I had casually lunch there when visiting a friend who was staying at the hotel and invited me; I even did not know about the main one You mentioned.

No apology necessary, I'm just relieved to hear that it wasn't Tugra you were referring to. I imagine that Ciragan Palace also needs a restaurant with broad appeal for all of their visitors, so I'm not surprised.

[marktynernyc]

Balikci Sabahattin (The Fisherman)

Cankurtaran, Sultanahmet

http://www.armadahotel.com.tr/pg_en/armada.asp?ID=36

Located in the Sultanahamet, down some alleyways and stairs,

next to the Armada Hotel - my friends and I sat outside under a large

umbrella (which protected later from a light sprinkle), the smell of

grilled fish wafting by. We started with a bottle of raki, an assortment

of cold and hot mezzes (the calamari was crisp, feather light, firm not

chewy or doughy). The cold mezes were delicate, restrained - an

obvious sure hand seasoning each dish. Just point to what looks

good and dive in. We each order grilled fish - blue fish, red mullet

and bonito - all very flavorful, but just a tad dry - and a couple bottles

of Turkish white, Dessert consisted of stuffed figs and some type of

quince dessert.  The setting is relaxing - the food is well prepared.

The total bill came to almost 200 million (about $120) but for three

people and the quality, not to mention in the Sultanahamet area -

quite reasonable.

Zeyrekhane

Sinaga Mahallesi Ibadethane Arkasi Sok. No 10, Zeyrek-Fatih

I waited here due to rain as my guide went for his car. Located

in front the Byztanine church, Pantokrator Monestary, in the Fatih

area - this restaurant has a great view of the Golden Horn, and the

Galata Tower. I ordered a small meze platter - which was pleasant.

But what was really great was the complimentary dish of pickles - these

were so good. This restaurant also has a huge terrace - which I'm sure

in the spring and summer is great.

Pandeli

Located in the Spice Market on the second floor - the food here was fine.

My guide and I order some smoked aubergine - I had kofte, he boiled lamb.

Everything was fine - we did catch the restaurant near the end of lunch which

may explain why certain mezzes weren't available. While I wouldn't say this

was a must do - the location is convenient and the turquoise tiled room

makes for a pleasant setting.

Boncuk

Balikpazan Nevizade Sok., No. 19, Beyoglu

http://www.nevizademeyhaneleri.com/boncuk

Located on Nevizade - if you have trouble locating this street just ask. We went on

Friday night - the whole area was jam packed with people - real riotous scene - quite

fun and light hearty. Yes, you will be approached by numerous restaurants asking

you to dine at their establishment. I can't tell you about the quality of the other places.

There is seating outside at Boncuk but I don't believe they take reservations - just get

there early on a friday or Saturday night. We ordered a flurry of mezzes, salad

(my friends thought the dressing was a bit too vinegary but the produce was very

good) and raki. The calamari here was doughy and chewy. Mezes dish prices

ranged from 2.000.000 to 6.000.000.  For the life of me - I can't remember if we

had main dishes - I just remember us devouring the mezzes, mainly because we

had been with guides all day and were ravenous.  

Saray

Istikial Caddesi, No. 102-104, Beyoglu

http://www.saraymuhallebicisi.com

Located on Istikail Caddessi - we stopped off here for dessert - lured in by

the glistening variations of baklava in the window.  I ordered the pudding

made with shredded chicken breast - which had similar flavors to rice pudding

but a unusual (but not negative) texture,. My friends baklava variations failed

to impress - but there are numerous dessert places on Istikal Caddessi.

Istikail Caddessi was thronged with people.

Asistane

Kariye Camii Sok. N0. 18 34240, Edirnekapi

http://www.kariyeotel.com

Located right next to St. Chora (must see Byzantine mosaics and frescos) -

specializes in Ottoman cuisine.  A neutral toned understated dining room.

The dishes are very different than regular Turkish cuisine - some of the dishes

were from a sultan's circumcision fete. The dishes were more complex and

subtly spiced. One friend ordered smoked aubergine - which was delicious

and beautifully presented. My other friend had a hummus dish that incoporated

cinnamon and raisins - very interesting. I had stuff grape leaves with sour cherry -

the sour cherry was overwhelmed by the vinegar. We all had various lamb

dishes. I would recommend this place - and will definitely come back next time I'm in Istanbul.

Tugra, Cirgan Kimpenski Hotel

Ciragan Caddesi 32, Besiktas

http://www.ciragan-palace.com

This hotel is huge - does not have the intimate scale that the Four Seasons

has but it was a palace in it former life. Situated on the bosphorus - -live music playing.

My friends and I did the tasting menu (89.000.000 TL) with dishes such as pan-fried “lor” cheese

sauteed with black olives and char-coaled red bell pepper; Ottoman style braised lamb with

dried plum and apricot, served with pilaf rice ; sea bass, dorado and grouper cold stew

prepared with Ottoman style garnishes The quality of the meal was very

good - the service was attentive yet something about the room didn't make this an

astonishing evening. I'm not sure - maybe it was where our table was located or the

enormity of the room. Jacket was required yet numerous people arrived casually dressed -

which may have detracted from the surroundings. The Turkish Merlot we had was fantastic.

Make sure to walk around the grounds. I believe there is also a Sunday brunch outside on the terrace

Hali

Istiklal Caddesi, No. 211, Beyoglu

This was probably the only meal that was average - we made the mistake

of ordering one of those large assortment platters. The gozleme were okay -

nothing special. The freshly grilled chicken kebabs were very good - but

most everything else seems to have been sitting around for a while. I would

recommend ordering individual dishes anywhere you go - even though

there are numerous restaurants that have trays of all-ready prepared food.

Kor Agop

Ordekli Bakkal Sok. No 7, Kumkapi

I had read negative reviews about the Kumkapi area - tourists being

ripped off. However - I found an article by an food writer who lives in Istanbul -

who recommended this meyhane. The taxi dropped us off at the pedestrian

mall -and we were prodded to eat at various restaurants ("I have 5 children to feed,

please eat at my restaurant") We found Kor Agop but there was only one

other table filled - I was bit concerned as we sat down - especially when the

small band began to play a bit too loudly. We ordered various mezes, salad,

fish and two bottles of white Turkish wine. The fish was quite good - moist and flavorful.

I think the total bill only came to 71.000.000 TL (fish was actually more expensive

in other places on the Bosphorus) The band of course serenaded our table for a tip -

but hey, go with the flow and have fun - I imagine this area is packed friday and Saturday.

Can't comment on any of the other places here. One note - my hotel did recommend

taking a taxi to this area - that the surrounding area can be unsafe.

Yedigul

Iskele Meydani No. 4, Anadolukavagi

This restaurant is located in Andalu Kavagi - the last ferry stop on the Bosphorus

before returning to Istanbul. After walking up to the Genoese castle we stopped

here for lunch and sat on the second floor which has a nice view of village - and

it's right near the ferry stop. We order a assortment of mezes - the white bean and

sardines were great - some raki and turkish white . For our main entree we all ordered

jumbo shrimp. These were horrible - mushy and an ammonia smell - we should have

sent them back ( next restaurant - no doubt) The manager had recommended lufte -

the seasonal fish at the time. This meal was more expensive than Kor Agop in Kumkapi -

maybe because they have a monopoly on visitors. There are other numerous restaurants in the village.

Seasons Restaurant, Four Seasons Hotel, Sultanhament

Tevkifhane Sok. No. 1, Sultanahmet

http://www.fourseasons.com/istanbul/dining.../dining_49.html

My friends were leaving for Munich in the morning so we decided to have dinner at

the Four Season. The food is very well prepared - the room is pleasant. Modern updated

turkish dishes and international dishes are offered. The Sunday brunch ($30 US) is a

popular scene for the well to do Istanbulites.

Develi Samatya

Gumusyuzuk Sok. No. 7, Samatya

http://www.develikebap.com

Reviews had praised this specific location for their kebaps. The restaurant also has

views of the marmara Sea. Had lunch here - everything was delicious - the "raw" kofte,

the lamucun, the pistachio kebabs, the walnut dessert - everything. Unfortunately the

upper floors and terrace weren't open for lunch so we only had a partial view of the sea.

The room is very nicely decorated in maroons and cream whites. The only odd thing was

they don't serve alcohol/wine until the evening (possibly 9 pm - might have been due to

Ramazan - not sure) Great little neighborhood - small children playing, the food vendors

splashing their produce. I would recommend this specific location highly.

5th Floor

Soganci Sok. 7, Cihangir

http://www.5kat.com

A bit hard to find but the view is top notch. A very hip vibe and upscale crowd.

Ordered a bottle of Turkish sparkling wine - Tradokya - which was crisp, dry and

very enjoyable. Watching the mini boats and traffic from this perch was relaxing

and fun. My friend and I ordered cocktails and raki for the next few hours. The

restaurant serves more international food - I ordered a tomato/turkish white cheese

salad and my friend order chicken fingers with potatoes - which were both fine and

took the edge off all the alcohol. The terrace was closed for the season - but if the

view from the bar is any indication, it must be great.

Mavi Balik (Blue Fish)

Muallim Naci Caddesi, No. 64/2, Kurucesme

http://www.mavibalik.com

Great place to have lunch after touring the Dolmabache. A panoramic view of

the Bosphorus and Bosphorus Bridge. The grilled calamari and fish were very good.

Terrace is open for the summer - if you're looking for a place to have diner during sunset,

I would recommend this place. The Turkish white, Ozel Kav, was prefect with the fish.

Former name was Mavi Yesil (Blue Green)

Le Pecheur

Yenikoy Caddesi, No. 80, Tarabya

http://www.lepecheurrestaurant.com

Located in Tarabya - the green blue Bosphorus literally wraps around the main dining room.

A large display of fish and a large fish tank greets you at the entrance. We started off with

stuffed mussels, smoked salmon, cheese and melon, octopus salad. some other mezes and a

bottle of raki. The freshly baked Ramazan bread was still warm, chewy and delicious.

For fish, my friend ordered lufte and I ordered sea bass.Both fish grilled perfectly - the

flesh was moist and infused with the scent of the grill - really quite good. The temperature

had dropped considerably and the mist that developed looked like ghosts dancing on the water.

A cab back from Tarabya to the sultanhamet area cost 20.000.000.

Misc:

My friends and I were there for the beginning of Ramazan. Small Ottoman like houses, selling

various foods, were built between the Blue Mosque and the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts.

Salep (so wonderfully satisfying on a chilly evening), profiterols, gozleme, baklava, baked

potatoes, etc etc, etc were avilable and incredibly inexpensive - a festive fun scene.

My Turkish friend and I went to Camlica, the highest point in Istanbul, located on the Asian side - take

a ferry to Uskudar then a cab to "big" Camlica, the view of the Bosphorus Bridge and the lower Bosphorus

is great. "Small" Camlic's views are not as good. There were restaurants there but did not try being that

we had dinner reservations in Tarabya.