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Mostly French


Florida Jim

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2002 Chanson, Beaune Clos-des-Mouches:

Young, tight and not especially concentrated; with time, some of the vineyard and fruit shows but this is not even in the same league as Drouhin’s Mouches. And at $55, it has no QPR.

2000 Chat. Listran, Médoc Cuvée Prestige:

My dog used to run in a pasture adjacent to our house and eat cow dung – this smells like her breath after such a run, but it also has some ripe cassis and blackberry tones; shows young in the mouth with everything not quite together, even so, there’s solid black fruit, spice and earth elements, a balanced structure and a certain elegance to it all; medium finish. Identifable as Bordeaux and reasonable at $10.

2000 J.J. Christoffel, Riesling Kabinett Ürziger Würzgarten:

Joyous juice! Clean, stony, fruit scents and flavors, bright in the mouth, lovely balance, charming in every aspect. And at 7.5% alcohol, lunch is the perfect time to have a glass or two. I think this producer bottles fun as well as wine. Close-out price, $12.

2004 Dom. Saint Luc, Coteaux du Tricastin:

Charming, lightweight, ready to drink immediately, nicely balanced southern Rhône that smells inviting, tastes fresh, bright and carries only 12.5% alcohol but is entirely ripe. A lovely “little” wine. About $9.

2004 Dom. Saint Luc, Côtes do Rhône Villages:

Hard to distinguish from the forgoing wine save for an extra half point of alcohol which is reflected in a slightly rounder, softer mouth feel. If I have to choose, I like the Tricastin but both are ready to go and very pleasant. About $10.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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