Copenhagen

[reggie_212]

Would anyone have any good reccomendations for eating alone in Copenhagen? I'm spending a few days there on business and have no idea what to expect except that I will be on my own.

[anil]

Are you back ? Would care to update us on it ?

[Schneier]

This is the only thread on Copenhagen in eGullet?

Come on, people.

I'm in Copenhagen right now. Last night I had an excellent meal at Restaurant Els. I'lll post about it in a few days.

I have no idea yet where I am going to eat tonight.

Bruce

[fiskhus]

I absolutely love Restaurant Els. I have also enjoyed: Apollo Brewery, Bof & Ost, Tolbud Bodega and Restaurant Parnas.

I'd be happy to conduct an eating tour of Copenhagen - Any travel agents to set it up?

Thanks!

[Schneier]

I can't find my notes about my Restaurant Els meal, but I it was delicious. Good service, prety restaurant--all around good place to eat.

Bruce

[Schneier]

I can't find my notes about my Restaurant Els meal, but I it was delicious. Good service, prety restaurant--all around good place to eat.

Found them.

Bruce

*******

Okay, so this isn?t a review. I?ve been there once for dinner, alone, and had the tasting menu. But I enjoyed it, and I would go back.

My meal:

"Terrine of scallops and salted saddle of rabbit with variation of tomatoes." It was delicious slide of terrine, beautifully presented on the plate. (Actually, everything that came out of the kitchen was beautifully presented.) It was served with a tomato chutney.

"Ravioli with lobster and Belle de Boskoop with rilette of shank from veal and foamy soup of white beans." Definitely a tasty soup.

"Baked hake and roasted sweetbread with glazed beetroot, parsley and fomay sauce of champagne." This was really two things: the hake with parsley puree, and the sweetbreads with beetroot. Both were tasty dishes, although I?m not sure why they were served together. They didn?t interact with each other on the plate, and they didn?t interact with each other in the mouth. They looked pretty, though.

"Guinea fowl as ballontine served with press of leg and foie-gras pommes fondant and sauce of vanilla." This came as four little dishes on a single plate. There wasthe Guinea fowl ballontine. There was the Guinea fowl leg. There was the foie-gras. And there was the sliced apples with vanilla sauce. Again, everything was tasty. Again, the four items didn?t hold together as a single course very well. Again, the presentation was beautiful: four geometric stacks on a single plate.

"Forme d'Ambert and caramelized walnut bread with sorbet of figs." An okay cheese course. Nothing special.

"Selection of small coffee desserts." I don?t go to Copenhagen for the sweets.

Total for the menu: 545 kroner = about $100.

Els is one of the "good? restaurants in Copenhagen. It?s a pretty room (albeit with a large stuffed animal head on one wall). The service is professional and efficient; very European. The food is interesting. It?s not traditional Danish food by and stretch of the imagination, but it does use local ingredients.

Sadly, the restaurant was not full. I was there on a weekday night in winter, and there were very few tables active. Even worse, everyone except me was gone by 8:00. Pre-theatre rush, I was told. I hope the restaurant fills up after dinner. Or at least that the restaurant fills in summer, when it doesn?t get dark at 3;30 in the afternoon.

NB: winter in Copenhagen is dreary. It's cold. It's cloudy. It gets dark at 3:00. Visit in the summer if you can.

Bruce

[Poots]

Well, funny this thread came up as i'm moving to Copenhagen for 2 years in a week. I've been there twice before and had very good meals at Le Sommelier and at Spiseloppen(spelling?). Maybe i'll start doing some in depth write-ups when i get there.

[magnolia]

Anyone been to Cophenhagen more recently? Would love some recs for a friend...especially for Danish food. Thanks!!

[cxt]

Anyone been to Cophenhagen more recently? Would love some recs for a friend...especially for Danish food. Thanks!!

I go to Copenhagen for a few months every year. I don't go out too much, but here are some ideas:

Brasserie Degas on Jernbanegade

Spiseloppen (mentioned above although I don't know how the recent Christiania crackdown has affected it!)

Cafe Viggo on Vœrnedamsvej is nice for eating alone. They are laid-back and wonderfully friendly, it's on an interesting street and you can sit outdoors.

Last year RW Apple in the New York Times recommended Kommandanten, Le Sommelier and Godt (all fairly expensive).

None of these are danish food, though! The Times article also recommended Ida Davidsen's and Cafe Victor for danish food. I haven't been to either, so I don't know if they are a bit "touristic" as my danish boyfriend would say. See www.aok.dk for addresses and opening times.

Velbekomme!

[wlg]

I haven't been to Copenhagen for quite a few years, but as a fish geek, I was fooled by a herring buffet lunch served at a restaurant (whose name escapes me) on a street just north of Nyhavn (near Els). I was dying to try this place, where they served 15 different kinds of herring. Fresh from a meeting reviewing the status of herring stocks in the Northeast Atlantic, I figured it might be a comparative tasting of, say, Dogger Banks herring vs. Baltic Sea herring vs. Downs herring etc. etc. It turned out to be herring in 15 different preparations, natch. Some of them were better than others, but the surprising part was the recommended form of aquavit as an accompaniment - tough on its own, but excellent when paired with herring.

[kjbecker]

I was living and working in Copenhagen last winter.....a long cold winter....but there are some nice restaurants doing some interesting food. If your there after the middle of April, when Tivoli opens you should definately check out Restaurant the Paul. Kong Hans and Era Ora are also really nice (french and Italian respectively). I have heard that for Danish inspired cusine Ensemble and Kroggs fisk restaurant are the places to go although I havent eaten there personally. A word of warning......everthything is expensive in Copenhagen......many times you get an excellent meal but it can seem overpriced at least in my opinion.

[Hest88]

We're hoping to make our first trip to Copenhagen next year. I'd love to hear everyone's food (and non-food) suggestions.

[Poots]

There are plenty of good places to eat in Copenhagen. Copenhagen is Always expensive, but even moreso now with the dollar so weak so don't expect any dining bargains. Most places charge $15 and up just for a cheeseburger(not that you're asking for rec's on burger joints). One of my favorites is Le Sommelier a french restaurant with an extensive wine list. It can be seen here: http://www.lesommelier.dk/

There are a few Michelin starred restaurants here but i have not had the pleasure of dining at any of them....yet ;). They include Kommandanten, the only restaurant in Denmark with 2 michelin stars, http://www.kommandanten.dk/infoUK/info.asp

Pierre Andre, with one star, a small french restaurant at http://www3.aok.dk/E/V/CPHDK/0006/44/20/3.html

There are numerous Cafes that serve wonderful food as well. If you're going to be here during the summer than there's nothing better than eating outdoors at one of the restaurants in Nyhavn(2 blocks of restaurants and bars alongside a canal). People go there to sun worship, drink some wine or beer, and people watch. There's also some nice restaurants in Nyhavn including Restaurant Els that Schneier described above.

Tivoli, the famous amusement park is a must see, especially if you have children and there are some good restaurants within Tivoli as well, including the one starred The Paul.

and according to This site: http://www.woco.dk/composite-3521.htm

'The only Michelin-starred Italian restaurant in Northern Europe is also based in Copenhagen. Era Ora's multi-course feasts, and meticulous attention to detail (they fly in ingredients fresh from Umbria weekly) are legendary on the Copenhagen culinary scene.'

[cxt]

We're hoping to make our first trip to Copenhagen next year. I'd love to hear everyone's food (and non-food) suggestions.

I think I am better at the non-food suggestions in Copenhagen. If you love modern art and marzipan, this is your city!

-Take the train up the coast to Humlebaek and walk 5 minutes to the Louisiana Museum (just follow everyone else). Pick a day when the weather is (relatively) nice and take a picnic lunch. The ISO on Vesterbrogade is a block or so west of the main train station and has a good selection of breads, cheeses, wines, etc.

- Another museum and picnic option is taking the train to Ishoej and the Arken Museum, followed by a picnic right on the beach, bathing suits more or less optional.

- If you like contemporary art and are out on Nyhavn, go over to the shady side of the canal and stop in at Charlottenborg, the art school's exhibition space.

- If you are not afraid of heights, climb the outdoor spiral staircase on the steeple of Vor Frelsers Kirke. Celebrate your ascent by going to nearby Christiania afterwards. I haven't been there since it was supposedly cleaned up by the police, but if Spiseloppen is still open, have lunch or dinner there.

- The Canal tours sound touristy but they are fun. Be sure to duck your head at the bridges!

- Poots and KJBecker are right -- Copenhagen is expensive. But there are lots and lots of cafes where you can sit for as long as you like and have a beer or a coffee. They are always relaxed and friendly. Try Den Tatovarede Enke, The Tattooed Widow, in Baron Boltens Gaard, if you like beer. Try the Carlsberg Brewery tour in Valby, a short bus trip west on the #6, if you like free beer. You can't go wrong with anything from the Reinh van Hauen bakeries.

Have fun! Copenhagen is not as flashily beautiful as Paris or as flagrantly hip as London but it is friendly and comfortable and cozy.

[Winot]

Has anyone tried Tyvenkokkenhanskoneoghendeselsker ('The Thief, the Cook, His Wife and Her Lover')?

We're are going for a short break at the end of July and would like one stand out meal.

However would prefer to avoid French cuisine as we go to France reasonably often.

Thanks,

Winot

[Hest88]

Thanks cxt! I'm really looking forward to it! I love museums and the idea of exploring outside the city. Question for you, because I like getting a sense of distance and I'm very bad with maps: how long would it take, at a normal pace and without lingering anywhere, to walk from Tivoli to Nyhavn? As I'm investigating hotels (though I'm starting to lean toward the idea of renting an apt) I've been trying to figure out how far is too far. I'm a big walker and I like going out on foot and just exploring.

I'm also interested in trying "The Paul" restaurant, but I can't believe I have to wait a year!

[Boris_A]

Hotels: the Admiral is nice with rooms on the port side. $250/night for a double.

Central apartments for rent are difiuclt to find. I checked web-offerings and couldn't find any. If you learn anything, let me know.

Another museum suggestion is the Danish Museum of Decorative Art for design and furniture and interesting special exhibitions.

When we were there, we didn't spend much for food, focus was on classic design furniture. Even simple restaurants and pizzerias were quite expensive. 0,5 l beer at $7, for instance, but we found sometimes huge differences.

I'd go back to Copenhagen anytime. Lovely, very friendly people.

[Poots]

Hest88, the walk from Tivoli to Nyhavn is very easy. Tivoli is at one end of Stroget and Nyhavn is basically at the other end. Stroget if you didn't know is called the Walking street. Basically a pedestrian street filled will all kinds of shops(food, fashion, etc.). When you get to the opposite end from Tivoli(around 10 mins) you're at Kongens Nytorv(Kings Square). Across the square(2 mins) is Nyhavn. That's if you don't pause in your walk...and there are Plenty of places you Should pause. To tell you the truth, almost nothing in Copenhagen(if you're a walker) is too far. There are also Tourists bike that you can borrow(you put in a 20 kroner($3.50) coin and the bike is released, and when you return it you get the coin back). Copenhagen is a Very friendly walking city.

[cxt]

Thanks cxt! I'm really looking forward to it! I love museums and the idea of exploring outside the city. Question for you, because I like getting a sense of distance and I'm very bad with maps: how long would it take, at a normal pace and without lingering anywhere, to walk from Tivoli to Nyhavn? As I'm investigating hotels (though I'm starting to lean toward the idea of renting an apt) I've been trying to figure out how far is too far. I'm a big walker and I like going out on foot and just exploring.

Oh, I'm sorry it took me so long to see this! Thanks to Poots for answering the walking/timing question. I agree that nearly everything from Ameliensborg to Valby and Amager to Langlinie are walking distance. It might take up to an hour from one end to the other but there will always be something interesting to see.

I highly recommend renting a bike or buying and selling back, if you will be there for a month or more. Everything is accessible on a bike and you can also take them on the trains.

I haven't patronized them very much, but I hear that Emmery's, a little deli/coffee/bakery/wine shop with a few locations in Copenhagen, has the best of everything.

In the future, I'll try to do a better job of keeping up with this, our one little Copenhagen thread!

[Hest88]

Thanks Poots and Cxt. I didn't realize it was *that* short of a distance. A 10-12 minute walk is nothing! I won't agonize so much about hotel proximity then.

[Poots]

In the future, I'll try to do a better job of keeping up with this, our one little Copenhagen threadn

cxt maybe it's such a little thread because of the title. It's kind of.....lonely

I enjoyed a nice meal at Le Sommelier last week. Started with a glass of Salmon-Billecarte Brut Reserve. Sauteed Halibut to start with a glass of riesling. Graduated to Guinea Fowl with a shared bottle of Barbera D'alba and finished with some fresh fruit and ice cream(well it was part of Le Menu, i actually gave it to my dining partner). Another fine meal here. It really is my 'goto' restaurant in the Cope. I'm sure there are better(and more expensive) but i've never happened upon a poor meal at Le Sommelier(lesommelier.dk). Sorry for the non-descriptions but i don't take notes and i was just having a good time with food and wine without delving too deep.

I also had a small, quite enjoyable meal at Alsace a few weeks ago. A big ole bowl of bouillabasse with a half bottle of Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve and a fabulous white chocolate mousse with almond wafers and fresh rasberries with a glass of Trockenbeerenauslese by J.J.S. Burgenland. Menu can be seen at Alsace.dk. I go here usually once a month just for the bouillabasse. And i don't usually eat dessert as i'm truly a savory over sweet kind of guy, but i Love white chocolate and this dessert is very good.

Brian

Edited July 23, 2004 by Poots (log)

[Ted Task]

Without reading every thread on the subject, let me report on a few good places in Copenhagen, having just returned.

On a very old thread there was a mention of a herring restaurant that writer could not properly identify, but he gave general location. As I love that kind of challange, I'm pleased to report the GOOD herring rest. is in NYHAVEN and is named NYHAVS FAERGEKRO at Nyhavns 5 1051 Kobenhaven , it sits on the canal edge about a half block from the famous ELS. We had at least ten versions of herring

while sitting outside in the sun/light breeze sipping a Carlsburg. I only wish there was an outpost of this restaurant here in the states, so I could make at least a quarterly visit. 'twould be nice for others to see how great a simple little fish can be. Doesn't matter, dill sauce, curry, mustard,cream, fried, smoked they were all wonderful.

MUCH more sophisticated food at:

FROKEN NIELSEN,Gammel Kongevej 27 (the theatre ) where we had an excellent Boulabaise , lovely filet of Baltic salmon, but the end of the meal was STUNNING,

a slice of organic Danish blue cheese with a comfit of pickled onions in a plum sauce. You gotta taste (and see the colors on the plate) to understand. Oh, my.

GRABRODERTORV 21 (this was suggested by very old dining companions and they were right, almost next door is another that they had suggested PEDER OXE which we did NOT get to but on basis of this one,go.

We dined upon an old favorite (not often done well) of calves liver with onion and bacon and the Mrs decided that the roast chicken was delectible. Go here!

For those of you who cannot go very long with out some spice in your lives, we are the same, and found NAM THIP at Viktoriagade 3, very good , very cheap Thai.

We also ate at HERCEGOVINA in Tivoli, a buffet with multiple choices, TASTE first then decide.

Same advice for ANKARA, Turkish buffet, again taste first then decide.

For those who will be in Copenhagen for any length of time I found a very well stocked wine shop, it's in Nyhavn. BJORN LINDELL, NYHAVNS VINHANDEL/VIN SELECT, Nyhavn 44. The grocery stores all had lots of selection, we took on a cruise some So. Africans for about $5 (US) a bottle , paid the $10. (US) corkage and were well satisfied (the wines were, for the most part, better than the food).

Ted Task

Edited September 6, 2004 by Ted Task (log)

[Hest88]

Cool! Thanks Ted!

[cxt]

This doesn't really fit in this topic, but it IS a Copenhagen question...

I'm going to be in Copenhagen all winter and I'd like to make a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. In my family, this absolutely requires certain dishes, and these absolutely require the following:

canned pumpkin

canned cream of mushroom soup

fresh cranberries

Ritz crackers

(They don't all go in the same dish). Can these be found in regular grocery stores in Denmark? Føtex, Gobi, Netto, osv? I know I could probably get them from the American store downtown, but it would be cheaper to bring them with me.

And what about the obvious, a 15-pound whole turkey?!

Thanks!

Chris

Edited September 18, 2004 by cxt (log)

[Poots]

Chris, i wouldn't hold much hope of getting most of the ingredients here(other than in the american store). When i moved here a friend of mine asked me to bring a case of cream of mushroom soup with me for her(i did). I'm planning a thanksgiving dinner here as well with some friends. For the turkey you have to order it in advance. I'm not sure where yet, but i'll find out soon. A friend of mine did it last year and should have the info. I'll post it when i get it. Luckily with my company i usually know people making the flight to and from the states at least once every other month so i often make some calls and try to get them to bring me things i miss from home. I don't hold much prasie for the supermarkets here especially ghetto netto and i hope you have a good reason to be here during the winter. It's going to be my first and i've heard the bad stories of months of never seeing the sun...etc. I hope they were just stories

--Brian

Edited September 18, 2004 by Poots (log)