Machu Picchu

[ulterior epicure]

I'm considering a go at a trek through the mountains from Cuzco on up to Machu Picchu and would love some advice and tips:

1. Any eating tips (both sanitary and restaurants) in Cuzco. I must stay there for two days before the ascent to get acclimated to the altitude.

2. Locals have suggested drinking "coca tea" made from the leaves of the Erythroxylum Cataractarum plant, from which cocaine is also produced to help with the altitude adjustment. Does anyone know about a). the legitimacy of this drink as an altitude acclimator? and, b). whether it has any harmful effects (ie. like cocaine).

Thanks!

Ulterior Epicure.

[BonVivant]

i didn't get any altitude sickness in Cuzco. i did feel something on the second day of the hike but nothing major. everyone drinks coca tea there. it's even in your food cooked by the porters. locals chew the ash along with the leaves when going up the mountains. i did too however i didn't like the ash taste in my mouth, besides the initial numbness. i suggest you read up on coca leaves in your guide book. don't worry about the leaves. it's not like the drug! remember to go easy on the alcohol and walk slowly. best not to move around too much on the first couple of days. as for food, i will say the same thing as always, avoid restaurants where you see fellow tourists, or menu with [some] English on it. try as many baby alpaca steaks as you can for nowhere else will you ever get to eat them again. and you will be never want to go back to beef after this one thing though, the steak/meat is always huge...nearly the size of the plate! and get used to eating rice and chips on the same plate too.

[saltshaker]

I've drunk coca tea, or better yet, chewed coca leaves, when up in the Andes. It's both legal in South America and it works. And it works well! Relieves the headaches and breathing difficulty within a few minutes.

You'll find in most towns in the Andes that coca leaves and/or the tea are readily available - here in Argentina it tends to run about 1 peso for a bag that could easily last you a week or more.

In terms of any concerns about the "cocaine" connection - it takes 100 pounds of the leaves to produce a pound of cocaine. An ounce of leaves is probably enough to last you a couple of days - not a major concern.

[Sneakeater]

Ditto. And I'm a complete gringo.

[jm chen]

Good luck with the altitude sickness, it hits some worse than others. The best restaurant we visited in Cuzco is a little place called, I think, El Grano or La Grana, had really good Asian/Indian/international food choices in a warm, welcoming hippie cafe environment. Definitely try there. If your stomach is bothering you (as mine was when we first arrived) you can have a baked potato.

Most hotels will offer you a cup of coca tea upon arrival. I even brought some back with me, after asking the people in the duty-free shop about 83 times if they were SURE it was legal to carry to the US. It's relaxing and settles the stomach, as others above have said.

[phaelon56]

I recently spoke with a friend who went on the trek to Macchu Picchu. Of the 18 people in his group about half chose to chew the coca leaves with the ash ball and the others did not. None of those who chewed the leaves suffered altitude sickness but nearly all of those who didn't chew them suffered the effects of the altitude.

I'd be inclined to chew them so I could enjoy not only the scenery and culture but also my food.

[jamesglu]

I am also planning travel to Peru, including Machu Picchu, in May, and had the same questions. I met someone yesterday who just happened to have flown down to MP from NYC for the weekend (!) the previous week, and he and his fiancee had no ill effects from the altitude, and raved about the food, particularly the ceviche, which they said was uniformly excellent. Neither got the least bit ill, though it should be noted that the man was kosher, so he is probably a bit more careful about what he'll eat (i.e., no guinea pig or alpaca) than most.

[EdS]

I spent over a week hanging out in Cuzco a few years ago. The altitude does make some people sick. I saw this with my own eyes. The coca tea seems to help by temporarily speeding up your heart rate. It's hard to describe but I'd say drinking coca tea is like drinking coffee but without the dehydrating effect that comes from caffeine. I don't know the science behind it but I bet this increased heart and breathing rate helps you bring in more oxygen to make up for the lack of oxygen in the thin air.

I found myself getting out of breath walking quickly up and down hills around town. I do several hours of intense cardio work a week so this humbled me. I'd suggest taking the altitude reasonably seriously.

I had a mild headache and some nausea throughout much of my second day staying in town and I rarely get headaches. I don't think it was a coincidence. I used this as an excuse to drink more coca tea. I like it better than coffee and black tea. Too bad it's not available here.

Cuzco is a party town. There are plenty of young visitors especially European and Australian backpackers. Many drink like fish on their day of arrival and then get up the following morning to begin their Machu Picchu trek. Combine the probable hangover with the altitude effects and the physical activity and I can only guess what their personal hell must be like that day.

Edited March 6, 2006 by esvoboda (log)

[EdS]

Do try the alpaca. It reminded me of lamb yet it was different. I enjoyed it.

Also try the puy (guinea pig)! I understand it's sort of a traditional special occasion (and perhaps tourist) dish. Visit the large main cathedral and go inside. You'll see how the Spanish adapted their art to the natives. The painting of the Last Supper has a GUINEA PIG on the table! I sent some postcards home depicting this painting and they were thoroughly enjoyed.

Cuzco is pretty touristy yet it has authentic charm and lots of history. Be careful that you don't get ripped off.

My favorite bar is Los Perros Couch Bar. I had my first coca tea there...

For non-food knowledge and wisdom about the area, be sure to check out Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree South America Forum. I found it quite helpful.

Edited March 6, 2006 by esvoboda (log)

[Sneakeater]

Not meaning to be obnoxious, but the word for guinea pig is "cuy". (Delicious.)

[EdS]

Not meaning to be obnoxious, but the word for guinea pig is "cuy".  (Delicious.)

←

That's cool. I had a mental short-circuit. I hate that when that happens.

[katkit]

I miss cusco.

favorite places:

(really good food but not peruvian)

los perros

the muse

really good israeli food when you go all the way up gringo alley and go to the left. (the alley with all the restaurants.. near los perros)

ceviche is best by the water, in the mountains the only fish available are trout and pejerrey. try the aji gallina or papa ala huancaina. cuy is a must. some places i went with locals, and hard to find... i had street food everywhere in s. america and never had issues. try visiting the local market- they're good fun

please do rest awhile b4 going up to machu picchu, and if you can, support the local reputable companies so the money stays in town.. coca did help for altitude sickness.

and beware of some of the local women and men you meet at bars.. some of them are "working"

Edited April 1, 2006 by katkit (log)