"French" by Damien Pignolet

[Shinboners]

The calendar ticks over to November, and with it, begins the trickle of new cookbooks that will eventually become a flood for the Christmas market.

One book that caught my attention was "French" by Damien Pignolet from Sydney's Bistro Moncur. It's hard not to ignore the book with it's black and white leather cover with a heart sitting inbetween a knife and fork.

Okay, it's not as if I need another French cookbook. But look at the photos! Look at the layout! Read his opening comments on each recipe or even just sit in a comfy chair and just feel the book in your hands. It's hard not to want to buy it, even at the RRP of $69.95.

The book is divided into 13 sections, not including things like the introduction and index. Apart from the usual sections like "Stocks and sauces", "Soups", "Meat" etc., Pignolet has devoted chapters to "Eggs" and "Charcuterie". Most of the recipes are from Bistro Moncur, but he does slip in a few from his time at Claude's. Many of the French classics are there, but I think the more interesting recipes are the ones where he's put his own personal twist or adapted to Australian ingredients (not surpisingly, many of these are in the "Fish and Shellfish" chapter).

Every chapter opens with a brief discussion on the topic of the chapter with a mixture of facts, opinions, historical references, and anecdotes. He then follows up with a paragraph or three on a more specific item. For instance, in the "Poultry and Game" chapter, he writes about duck, quail, squab, guinea fowel, pheasant, and rabbits and hares. They have a similar mix of information as the chapter introductions. Following that are the recipes. Ingredients on the top third of the page, instructions on the bottom third. The instructions open with a few comments from Pignolet (sometimes it's a few hints, other times it talks about the history of the recipe) and then the step by step method for the recipe. Any unusual terms or techniques are marked so you can check for them in the glossary of ingredients, equipment and technique.

Reading through the recipes, I would think that you would have to be reasonably competent in the kitchen. It is not a book for beginners. There are plenty of recipes that I do want to try, but I know that for a few of them, I will have to set aside an afternoon's attention to complete them. Cookbook collectors and keen cooks will love this book, but beginners should probably stay clear for the time being.

[PCL]

Another one for the Christmas stocking. Shin, maybe a link in from the Media forum might be helpful for those in other parts of the planet??

[Shinboners]

I caught an interview with Damien Pignolet on 774ABC today. He's a very softly spoken guy, but very passionate about his food. He said that one of the key philosophies behind his book was to teach people to cook properly - to understand that good food requires care and technique. Still, I'm not that sure that he would have convinced anyone bar the already converted - he conceded as much when he said that Bill Granger's books were excellent for those who wanted to make quick meals.

The other thing about the interview was that it was further proof that when it comes to interviews, Richard Stubbs is not fit to clean the microphone of Derek Guille.

[Shalmanese]

Had a quick browse through it. It looks good but not $70 good .

[petemelb]

Had a quick browse through it. It looks good but not $70 good .

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Border's have it for $49.95.

[Tim White]

Had a quick browse through it. It looks good but not $70 good .

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Sorry have to disagree here.. This is a book with a lot of soul and history. If you've met Damien - you'd see a lot of him in it.

If the criticism is that it is not new - I'd accept that the subject 'provincial french food' is the subject of countless books - but few have been done as well.

Equally I would agree that it is not a book that will convert the masses - but if you already care about taste and are prepared to work at it - this is a very good book

What stands out for me is the teaching method in the long-hand instructions. Clearly thought out and detailed instructions for a consistently excellent product are uncomommon. For me - a bit like Elizabeth David with pictures really

We've tried the Duck & Pistachio Terrine (completely moorish), the chevre & herb tart (Damien's pate brisee is famous) and the meringues (with walnuts & green lemon). Needless to say there is none left of any at present....

In my humble opinion, one of the better books for a while and one that will last the test of time

[Julles]

I love this cookbook. For starters it is a great looking book, decent size and really nice and solid. It even has a placemarker. Good layout and good index. I have eaten at Bistro Moncur many times on trips to Sydney and was waiting at the gate for the postman when he arrived with my book.

It isn't going to deliver up new and extreme items, but it does cover all the basics in french cooking. The best thing about it is that is has recipes that you can actually use - rather than looking at them and thinking - hmm maybe one day I'll make that, but secretly knowing you will never have the time or energy. It includes basics like meringues and a fantastic choc cake that I have made many times before - using other recipes, but now have it readily accessible. It has all those recipes that you love to make - collected together. Plus lots of others that you always wanted to make, - and now you can! So far I've made souffle - for the very first time - so easy, and delicious. Also the leeks, which I've used other recipes before, but this one is straight forward and it works. Done the lentils, and am planning on the duck this weekend. Will move forward into some of the trickier stuff over Christmas. Really really like this recipe book, and believe me, I've got lots of cookbooks. Lots and lots and lots!!