culatello di zibello

[fortedei]

thank you Bill,

you have contributed to the creation of a 7-day trip without stops!

←

The perfect combination in my mind would be to stay at Locanda del Lupo in Soragna and eat at La Buca in Zibello (which a number of others have mentioned) Locanda is a very comfortable (4 star) albergo and is about 7km. from Zibello. This allows one to eat a good (also big) meal (and drink a lot... and you will if you go to La Buca) and not have to go all the way back to Parma late at night. There is wonderful walking on the small roads around Soragna, so next day you can try to work off what you put on the night before.

La Buca is a wonderful experience. Unique. We've been there more than 40 times in the past 27 years and Miriam (and her late mother, Eleana, before her) is still doing what she does best. What she does best is serve a plate of her own culatello (it's all hanging in the back cellar which she'll show you; thousands of culatelli) and a plate of spalla cotta, with butter on the side. Truly artery clogging but at least one dies very happy. Then tortelli di zucca and after perhaps an arrosti or bolliti (with her own mostarda) or stracotto di lingua. If it's funghi time, she'll have funghi. if it's the late Spring, she'll have frog's legs. She'll have piselli. So, the menu that never changes (culatello, tortelli, arrosti etc.) and what is seasonal. Her own nocino and Romano Levi's grappa (he calls her La Regina di Culatello).

Miriam is larger than life, both from her personality and her physical stature. She is a gem. A kinder, more giving person, is difficult to find.

In 1987, we were staying at the late Franco Colombani's place, Sole, in Maleo for a week between Christmas and the New Year. We wanted to take Franco and Silvana, Nadia and Antonio Santini, Rino and Severio Botte (from the late lamented Ceresole in Cremona) and Roberto and Silvana Ferrari from Bersagliere out to eat. What was the one place all of them wanted to go to? To eat Miriam's food at La Buca. So on a night when all their restaurants were closed, in nebbia that was thick, thick, thick, we all went to La Buca.

One last thing... until recently about the only thing you could drink there was lambrusco (although she had the good stuff as well as the plunk). Miracle of miracles... there is now actually a decent wine list.

We've sent lots of friends there over the years. Not one has had anything less than a great food experience and a fun time as well.

[robert brown]

Welcome to eGullet, fortedei. It's apparent already that you are going to be a significant addition to the Italy forum, especially. Are you living in Forte dei Marmi? Are you a boy, or are you a girl? Who are you?

[fortedei]

Welcome to eGullet, fortedei. It's apparent already that you are going to be a significant addition to the Italy forum, especially. Are you living in Forte dei Marmi? Are you a boy, or are you a girl? Who are you?

←

Just someone who enjoys eating well prepared food, either at home or in restaurants in Italy...preferably true regional Italian food using ingredients that are seasonal whenever possible. Since the mid 70s, my wife and I have seen a lot of the best, starting with Cantarelli in Busseto, Franco Colombani's birth of the group of restaurants in the Linea in Italia, and Nadia and Antonio without a star. Unfortunately, we've seen a bit of the worst (think of the nuova cucina of the mid 80s to the early 90s), but with a fair amount of dilgence on the part of my wife, not that much. We also enjoy drinking well made Italian wine that speaks of its "terroir." We've been very fortunate to get to know a number of restaurateurs on a personal basis.

We have a home in Forte where we spend six months a year. We also have a favorite restaurant (actually we call it our "shack on the beach") in Forte that serves, in our mind the best spaghetti con le arselle, cozze al vapore and orata al forno. That, however, is for another, more appropriate time and post. We travel a fair amount when we are in Italy and I hope to keep the board posted on the restaurants we enjoy, either old favorites or new ones.

[athinaeos]

thank you fortedei,

your contribution is not only relevant to my humble task, but gastronomic literature in the making

have you ever thought of publishing the "La Buca" - type experiences you have collected over the years?

cheers

[fortedei]

thank you fortedei,

your contribution is not only relevant to my humble task, but gastronomic literature in the making

have you ever thought of publishing the "La Buca" - type experiences you have collected over the years?

cheers

←

Over time, perhaps during the next few years, as the topics on the Board warrant it, I should be able to recount some of the experiences. Have fun at La Buca. It is a special place.

Salute.

[Ore]

thank you Ore,

for your insightful (literally) contribution.

I am planning to go sometime in the Spring of 2006 and will let you know.

One more question springs up: is it better to go for the "aged" or the "young" stuff? My experience from other products directs me towards the "old". What is your view?

←

I would suggest a tasting of all the house may offer. Read Alberto's post on www.IlForno.com for his Culatello tasting. Best of luck and take photos!

Ore

[albiston]

The page Ore is pointing to is here. As much as I'd love to own the ilforno.com domain, I do not .

[athinaeos]

final four: only four months after i started my quest, i am about ready to visit the culatello land, and would like to present the final four list; this is the list of the establishments i plan to visit within the constraints of my trip; comments are as always welcome!

La Buca - Zibello

Al Vedel - Colorno

Romani - Vicomero

Al Cavallino Bianco - Polesine Parmense