Taberna Del Alabardero

[Joe H]

Tonight my wife and I and two other friends had dinner at the long standing (since 1988) Taberna Del Alabardero at 18th and I. Our last visit was on Valentine's Day of several years ago. Prior to this was a dinner for twelve that I organized as the first get together for another board to take advantage of D. C.'s inaugural restaurant week, about five years ago.

The dinner tonight had nothing in common with any of our memories of years past-or of dinners we've had in Spain, even of dinners that I've prepared myself in our kitchen in Reston.

An amuse of gazpacho was very good, complimenting the Bread Line selection of two breads presented to us along with Spanish olive oil. Asparagus soup was thin with a bit of flavor but lacking the explosive intensity that I might have otherwise expected. A $17.50 foie gras appetizer was indeed excellent, a significant portion with flavor and depth to rival what I've had at D. C.'s best.

But the murky depths of the night were plumbed with pedestrian, flavorless paella that I would have been embarrassed to serve at a baby shower. I make paella. I've made it for over thirty years, in wide, shallow cast iron pans that have survived a half century without soap, with only good olive oil to coat the surface. Greased with chorizo, spiked with saffron: pork, shellfish and poultry with several peppers and bombe along with home reduced stock and an hour or more to reduce. A paella worthy of guests, of relatives and of customers.

Taberna's had nothing in common with this.

I cannot tell you how disappointed I/we were with the paella at Taberna del Alabardero. I realize that this is an afterthought, an American affectation for any restaurant other than a long standing Valencia paella palace where this was born. But tonight half of the tables in the restaurant had a paella pan presented to them; none looked any more flavorful or appetizing than ours. And ours' was not very good. An afterthought, an insult-if you will-to the expectation that paella can be one of the world's great dishes.

This was certainly one of the world's worst. Saffron was virtually absent as was seafood, fowl and pork: the only real "filler" was rice, a lot of heavy, bulk filling rice.

It is a shame, really. I believe the most exciting food in the world right now is that which is served in Barcelona and San Sebastian. No, we are not talking about paella or even Zarzuela. But, for me, before I can even begin to consider Arzak, El Raco de Can Fabes or El Bulli I can't get past the canned tasting presentation of Tabena Del Alabardero.

For $500 for four people I can buy a ticket for one and fly to Barcelona off season; even at a restaurant specializing in garlic chicken I can eat better. In fact, incredibly, there is better paella at the many tourist laden traps on the inlet which frames the topless beach.

Washington deserves better than this. Sorry, tonight's dinner was a true disappointment. A shame since this is one of our city's more romantic and indulgent restaurants.

Someone needs to "shake up" it's kitchen. This isn't Omaha. Some of us know what paella can and should taste like.

Edited May 22, 2005 by Joe H (log)

[hjshorter]

Whoa. What a disappointing review Joe. I would have expected much better from them.

[butterfly]

For me, paella is such a simple dish, I never order it in a restaurant. A lot of the ingredients that you mention--chorizo, pork, seafood--aren't in a traditional paella... Which is not to say that the one at Alarbardero was good, just an observation.

[simdelish]

Joe,

After reading 11 paragraphs of your post, it sounds as if the rest of your meal was ok, but you really give little detail of your posting subject. What exactly was it you didn't like about the paella, other than the fact that you think you make better? Did it taste off? Was it cold? Was it gummy, or too fluffy? Maybe you don't like the socarro, thinking it a mistake in the cooking?

I was really shocked to read this post. I went to Taberna last week as well, for lunch. It was one of the most memorable, and delicious meals I have had in a long time. I am curious at to what was wrong... Gleaning those 11 graphs, I distill it down to this: you say no saffron, not enough other ingredients to satisfy you, and that rice was a "filler" : Last time I checked, rice is the basis of all paellas, no matter what the version.

none looked any more flavorful or appetizing than ours.  And ours' was not very good. Saffron was virtually absent as was seafood, fowl and pork:  the only real "filler" was rice, a lot of heavy, bulk filling rice.

I can't get past the canned tasting presentation of Tabena Del Alabardero.

←

I ordered the Paella Marinara, the seafood version for my lunch. It was loaded, drenched if you will, heavily with saffron. The scent was intoxicating as the server prepared and served it to us. The color as well was almost dayglo yellow, so much so, that I remarked about it at the time to my lunch companion. The "filler" of rice as you call it, was loaded with shrimp, chunks of lobster, scallops, squid, etc. It was so rich, because of the lobster stock, I couldn't even finish what was on my plate. It was made with the short-grain bombe rice, sticky and nice, cooked al dente, not what I find at every other place in town (merely long-grain ordinary rice, barely scented with anything). My friend said she had had the squid ink version just the week before, and it was equally rich, and delicious. My only complaint was not enough socarral, the lovely crunchy bits of "burned" rice from the bottom of the paellera.

As for versions of paella, I understand their is a version practically for every different village in Spain. The Valenciana seems to be the most prevalent "version" and therefore considered in this country, the most traditional. I like to think of paella versions just like French pastries: every town has a different one, named after the town.

(The rest of our meal was exceptional as well: the hearts of palm salad, the fresh grilled sardines(the best I have EVER had in this country), the creme catalana, even the petit fours. And the wines chosen by David Bueno, the sommelier, couldn't have been more perfectly matched. It was indeed, a perfect meal. The other dishes I have eaten at Taberna have also been exceptional, so I don't think panning an entire restaurant experience on the basis of only one dish in your dinner a fair shake.)

Perhaps we just had different experiences. Perhaps Chef Santi was not present in the kitchen the night you went (and, I readily admit, if that were the case, there should NOT have been any perceptible difference in the quality/product coming out of the kitchen that night). Perhaps we had the same meal and we just disagree, but it does sound to me as though we had two different dishes, not made the same way.

Not sure what the following has to do with anything

The dinner tonight had nothing in common with any of our memories of years past-or of dinners we've had in Spain, even of dinners that I've prepared myself in our kitchen in Reston.

I make paella. Greased with chorizo, spiked with saffron:  pork, shellfish and poultry with several peppers and bombe along with home reduced stock and an hour or more to reduce.  A paella worthy of guests, of relatives and of customers.

You say you think Washington deserves better than this. Respectfully, I think Taberna deserves better than to be bashed by you.

Edited May 24, 2005 by simdelish (log)

[Joe H]

Joe,

After reading 11 paragraphs of your post, it sounds as if the rest of your meal was ok, but you really give little detail of your posting subject. What exactly was it you didn't like about the paella, other than the fact that you think you make better?  Did it taste off? Was it cold? Was it gummy, or too fluffy? Maybe you don't like the socarro, thinking it a mistake in the cooking?

I was really shocked to read this post.  I went to Taberna last week as well, for lunch.  It was one of the most memorable, and delicious meals I have had in a long time.  I am curious at to what was wrong... Gleaning those 11 graphs, I distill it down to this: you say no saffron, not enough other ingredients to satisfy you, and that rice was a "filler"       :  Last time I checked, rice is the basis of all paellas, no matter what the version.

none looked any more flavorful or appetizing than ours.  And ours' was not very good. Saffron was virtually absent as was seafood, fowl and pork:  the only real "filler" was rice, a lot of heavy, bulk filling rice.

I can't get past the canned tasting presentation of Tabena Del Alabardero.

←

I ordered the Paella Marinara, the seafood version for my lunch. It was loaded, drenched if you will, heavily with saffron. The scent was intoxicating as the server prepared and served it to us. The color as well was almost dayglo yellow, so much so, that I remarked about it at the time to my lunch companion. The "filler" of rice as you call it, was loaded with shrimp, chunks of lobster, scallops, squid, etc. It was so rich, because of the lobster stock, I couldn't even finish what was on my plate. It was made with the short-grain bombe rice, sticky and nice, cooked al dente, not what I find at every other place in town (merely long-grain ordinary rice, barely scented with anything). My friend said she had had the squid ink version just the week before, and it was equally rich, and delicious. My only complaint was not enough socarral, the lovely crunchy bits of "burned" rice from the bottom of the paellera.

As for versions of paella, I understand their is a version practically for every different village in Spain. The Valenciana seems to be the most prevalent "version" and therefore considered in this country, the most traditional. I like to think of paella versions just like French pastries: every town has a different one, named after the town.

(The rest of our meal was exceptional as well: the hearts of palm salad, the fresh grilled sardines(the best I have EVER had in this country), the creme catalana, even the petit fours. And the wines chosen by David Bueno, the sommelier, couldn't have been more perfectly matched. It was indeed, a perfect meal. The other dishes I have eaten at Taberna have also been exceptional, so I don't think panning an entire restaurant experience on the basis of only one dish in your dinner a fair shake.)

Perhaps we just had different experiences. Perhaps Chef Santi was not present in the kitchen the night you went (and, I readily admit, if that were the case, there should NOT have been any perceptible difference in the quality/product coming out of the kitchen that night). Perhaps we had the same meal and we just disagree, but it does sound to me as though we had two different dishes, not made the same way.

Not sure what the following has to do with anything, saying that you are comparing a D.C. restaurant, with one in Spain, or more laughable, your home kitchen. I guess you are saying you are more qualified to be a Spanish chef than the gentleman currently at the helm of Taberna, that he doesn't grease his pan with olive oil, that he doesn't make and reduce his stock...

The dinner tonight had nothing in common with any of our memories of years past-or of dinners we've had in Spain, even of dinners that I've prepared myself in our kitchen in Reston.

I make paella. Greased with chorizo, spiked with saffron:  pork, shellfish and poultry with several peppers and bombe along with home reduced stock and an hour or more to reduce.  A paella worthy of guests, of relatives and of customers.

You say you think Washington deserves better than this. Respectfully, I think Taberna deserves better than to be bashed by you.

←

What is your point? To discredit what I wrote and to personally attack me? Unbelievable that I can't offer an opinion on this board without someone attacking or cursing me. I stand by it and ask the moderator to remove your last comment.

Edited May 24, 2005 by Joe H (log)

[simdelish]

What is your point?  To discredit what I wrote and to personally attack me?  Unbelievable that I can't offer an opinion on this board without someone attacking or cursing me.  I stand by it and ask the moderator to remove your last comment.

←

My point is that you made broad sweeping generalizations (with unrelated comparisons), and posted a very negative sweeping review about Taberna in general, based on a single complaint with only one entree.

I am not attacking you. Nor am I cursing you. I am entitled to my opinion as well, and I believe mine also to be an educated opinion. I did not intend to "inflame" you, as I apparently have. I was defending a very fine restaurant in this town, one with a fine reputation and, I believe, one that serves a very good product, with exceptional service and atmosphere.

You say your paella was bad. My paella was good, and I said why. Seems simple to me.

I tried also to be respectful in my posting, in case you overlooked this paragraph:

Perhaps we just had different experiences.  Perhaps Chef Santi was not present in the kitchen the night you went (and, I readily admit, if that were the case, there should NOT have been any perceptible difference in the quality/product coming out of the kitchen that night). Perhaps we had the same meal and we just disagree, but it does sound to me as though we had two different dishes, not made the same way.

[Joe H]

What is your point?  To discredit what I wrote and to personally attack me?   Unbelievable that I can't offer an opinion on this board without someone attacking or cursing me.  I stand by it and ask the moderator to remove your last comment.

←

My point is that you made broad sweeping generalizations (with unrelated comparisons), and posted a very negative sweeping review about Taberna in general, based on a single complaint with only one entree.

I am not attacking you. Nor am I cursing you. I am entitled to my opinion as well, and I believe mine also to be an educated opinion. I did not intend to "inflame" you, as I apparently have. I was defending a very fine restaurant in this town, one with a fine reputation and, I believe, one that serves a very good product, with exceptional service and atmosphere.

You say your paella was bad. My paella was good, and I said why. Seems simple to me.

I tried also to be respectful in my posting, in case you overlooked this paragraph:

Perhaps we just had different experiences.  Perhaps Chef Santi was not present in the kitchen the night you went (and, I readily admit, if that were the case, there should NOT have been any perceptible difference in the quality/product coming out of the kitchen that night). Perhaps we had the same meal and we just disagree, but it does sound to me as though we had two different dishes, not made the same way.

←

"You say you think Washington deserves better than this. Respectfully, I think Taberna deserves better than to be bashed by you."

Eminently respectful. You don't even know who I am and you're trying to tell me about paella. (so you know bomba-"al dente" bomba? Can you taste the difference between it and Calasparra which costs half as much and comes from the same area? Have you cooked with both to know the difference?) Let me be very specifric: My wife and I took two friends to Taberna for dinner. They, as well as both of us, KNOW Spanish food. Not just from eating but also from cooking. For years. And carrying food on airplanes-legally, smuggled past the customs beagle-I've cooked with what I've brought back. Twenty five or thirty people from "the other board" have also eaten my cooking-I am not talking idly.)

I apologized to them for the restaurant. It is because of this that I decided to write the post. This is a sophisticated city which has come a long way with its restaurants. I cannot imagine that a truly poor paella such as this would be served by them in one of their three Spanish restaurants. Or if they were in New York or San Francisco or Chicago. But they served it here. To me, to us, to a number of other tables. I was insulted that someone let this out of the kitchen thinking that diners in this Washington restaurant would accept it. Whoever was or was not there made a decision and it was set in front of me. I was offended that someone thought so little of me, so little of a Washingtonian, so little of a paying customer to serve a dish almost a tan color, virtually devoid of not just saffron but also of poultry and with two emaciated, heads on shrimp for bulk in the middle of my plate.

It was a terrible presentation that tasted even worse than it looked.

$500.00 later I wrote my post. Perhaps someone will show this to their chef or sommelier (both of whom you seem to know) and they will have second thoughts about what comes out of their kitchen in the future. Just a handful of people read this-they should be thankful that it was not Sietsema who this was served to.

[Busboy]

Sharp and detailed exchanges of opinion -- like that above -- make this an interesting board. Anyone who's seen my posts will know that I like a good dust-up, and that I'm inclined to moderate with a light hand.

I hope, however, that people will err on the side of caution when writing anything that might be construed as a personal attack, and that they will err on the side of forgiveness when reading anything that might be construed as a personal attack.

That way I won't have to give way to my inner Sith, and take my light-saber to people's posts in a savage and unforgiving fashion.

[mhberk]

I can't comment on the paella, but the experience that my wife and I had a few years ago for Valentine's Day (though a few days after the 14th) was excellent! I can't remember what she got, but my seared tuna was prepared to perfection! VERY flavorful and symmetrically seared all the way around.

We sat in one (of two) of the "special" tables (which was recommended to us that we reserve). The whole experience was very memorable and I would (and have)recommend Taberna Del Alabardero to anyone!

[dinwiddie]

I won't address Joe H's comments since I haven't ever ordered the pallea. However we took my son to Taberna del Alabardero for his birthday dinner. Took a 2002 Ramey Carnaros Chard and a 2002 Radio-Coteau Hellenthal PN with us so I didn't spend a lot of time looking at the wine list, but is is extensive (and expensive) with a lot of Spanish wine featured. We shared a glass of the R-C with David Bueno (the somm.) of course.

We started with appetizers, asparagas with Italian cheeses for my wife, escargot for my son, and grilled octopus with sauted potatoes and carmalized onions for me. All were delishious, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented. We opened the wines upon arrival, but the R-C still didn't get more than 45 minutes open before we started drinking it. They put the Ramey on ice for us when they opened it. The Hellenthal went wonderfully with the entrees, veal cheeks for the wife, a huge (22 oz, perfectly cooked) ribeye for the boy and wild boar osso buco for me.

When we sat down, David Bueno kept looking at our son but didn't say anything (even though he wasn't our server, he did stop by often to make sure we had everything ok and to pour the wine.) My wife and I figured that he was trying to figure out if he was old enough to share the wine (he isn't but of course he does) Then he brought three sets of glasses, a chard and a burg glass each, and opened the wines. When we ordered dessert, they brought out an extra for our son on a plate with Happy Birthday written in chocolate on it. We hadn't said anything about it being his birthday, but David said he had overheard that we were celebrating the birthday so the dessert on the house.

Service was everything one could ask for. Not obtrusive but always there at exactly the right time to refill water glasses, the bread basket, pour the wine, etc. The server was informative, helpful, frieny and very efficient.

Edited June 2, 2005 by dinwiddie (log)

[Busboy]

Welcome, dinwiddie. Looking forward to many more illuminating posts, like this one in the DC &DelMarVa board -- and elsewhere on the site.