Sovalo

[philadining]

I always question the wisdom of opening ANOTHER Italian restaurant in Philly, and even in this part of in Northern Liberties, there's already Il Cantuccio about a block and a half away. But I suppose there's always room for another good restaurant, no matter the style, and from one visit, I think they'll do well. All the food was consistently very good, and the restaurant itself is a lovely setting, somehow much airier than the old Pigalle, even without any major structural changes.

It was surprisingly empty when I went, but I predict that will be an unusual status in the near future, our server said that several print reviews were forthcoming, including Sono, LaBan, and Phily Mag (there are so many freaking restaurants in this town, why do all the reviewers end up at the same places?) If those writers had experiences like I did, they should inspire some (more) crowds to trek down to Northern Liberties .

Things started out well with crusty bread with an artichoke and white bean puree, which was a tasty spread, and a nice alternative to oil or butter.

A cuttlefish appetizer consisted of tender, yet almost meaty strips of squid-like fish, grilled lightly and served on bitter dandelion greens, with shaved fennel. I'd never had cuttlefush before, and this was good, a little heftier than squid, but same general vibe, prepared very well.

A half-order of gnocchi with pancetta and peas served as another starter. Delicate, light, small dumplings were sauced with a smooth tomato sugo, a small dice of pancetta adding depth. The peas were a little starchier than I prefer, and the pea flavor threatened to dominate the this dish, but it just barely stayed in balance, for an enjoyable rendition of this classic combination.

Marlin was lightly dressed with a chili vinaigrette, and perched atop roasted fingerling potatoes. The sauce lent the meaty fish a subtle, intriguing tang, the chili flavor imparting more depth than heat.

Lamb speidini was tender chunks of marinated lamb, grilled just enough to develop a flavorful crust, yet remain a ruby medium-rare. It was served, along with nuggets of rich lamb sausage, atop an herby, juicy mix of fava and cannellini beans. This was REALLY good.

Pannacotta with macerated strawberries, a fine chiffonade of basil cutting the sweetness, was a really nice dessert. Another one had a combination of red currant sorbetto and meyer lemon granita, which were vibrant and refreshing. The Meyer lemon flavor was NOT fooling around, whole-face-puckeringly strong, but still tasty, and tempered by the sweetness of it sweeter companion.

There's a nice winelist with a good selection of affordable bottles. We chose a few different tastes by the glass. There are just enough to choose from, with a good variety. A Vouvray complimented the cuttlefish nicely, a California Pinot Noir played well with the gnocchi. Our server suggested a Barbera to match the tricky vinegar-tinged mackerel and the flavors indeed melded beautifully. A hefty Zinfandel held its own with the lamb.

The recipes here aren't especially revolutionary or daring, but have enough imagination and sheer skill of execution for the food to rise above the pack. Philly needs another Italian restaurant like it needs another Liberty Bell, but this one is good enough, with enough of a fresh Cal-Ital vibe to make it stand out. This place is going to get crowded soon. Go now....

(702 N. Second St)

edited to add address

Edited April 28, 2005 by philadining (log)

[cinghiale]

Nice review. Thanks. I'd read about the owners' history at Tra Vigna in Napa, which I enjoyed several years ago (although there's dispute about the restaurant on the CA board, I guess), so I'm looking forward to trying it.

On a related note: Has anyone else noticed the sudden emergence of marlin? It's the new ahi or something. I've seen it on three menus in the past two weeks, including Southwark. What gives?

[philadining]

I'd read about the owners' history at Tra Vigna in Napa, which I enjoyed several years ago (although there's dispute about the restaurant on the CA board, I guess), so I'm looking forward to trying it.

I haven't been to the restaurant in Napa, but i remember a cooking show Tra Vigna's owner/chef did a short time ago. Unfairly stereotyping from the vibe I got from the TV show, I was a little concerned that the food at Sovalo might be a slick, overbuffed, inoffensive California cliche. And I'm happy to say it's not the case. In fact it's probably unfair to raise the spectre of Cal-Ital, Sovalo isn't really following that trend, but it does have some of that light touch, and non-adherence to strict traditional preparations.

Edited April 28, 2005 by philadining (log)

[herbacidal]

On a related note:  Has anyone else noticed the sudden emergence of marlin?  It's the new ahi or something.  I've seen it on three menus in the past two weeks, including Southwark.  What gives?

←

My general feeling, and others will have to rule in on this of course,

is that fishes get popular based on a combination of:

1) what the fish suppliers are pushing

2) what fishes the restaurants, public and nonprofit groups believe to be overfished, and therefore put pressure on fishermen and suppliers to not use

3) what fishes are considered overfished based on past history

In other words, when a fish gets overfished, w/o previous overfished stock numbers going back up, then I expect the fish suppliers/fishermen to look for a new fish to catch en mass.

This in turn, increases the availability of that fish at a good price, increasing its presence on menus.

[philadining]

LaBan gives it 3 Bells in the Inky

Lauren McCutcheon reviewed it in the Weekly a month and a half ago.

Heeeeere's Sono in the Daily News

more to come, no doubt....

[shacke]

I went to Sovalo last night on BYO Monday and had a great meal. Terrific service and Napa style food that made me nostalgic for Tra Vigne.

I started with buccatini alla matriciana with guanciale which was perfectly cooked and seasoned. I then ordered the osso bucco with mashed chick peas and dandelion greens. This plate was really terrific. The table also ordered a shared plate of marscapone risotto with scallops and mushrooms. Wow, was that good also.

This was a wine oriented bunch so the staff was really accommodating with all the glasses lying everywhere. We were by far the last folks in the place and we were not rushed at all.

I plan on returning ASAP, without a doubt. The first couple of times I tried to go, it didn't work out.

Third times the charm. Not only that but many good quality BYO places are closed on Monday so this is an extra plus.

Evan

[rlibkind]

Evan, does Sovalo still have the buccatini con sardo on the menu?

[shacke]

Evan, does Sovalo still have the buccatini con sardo on the menu?

←

Not at the moment. Our server mentioned the menu changes frequently. The other interesting pasta, if anyone goes soon, was saffron gnocchi with lamb sugo and fresh peas. That both sounded and looked superb.

Thanks for that tip BTW, rlibkind.

Evan

[rlibkind]

The other interesting pasta, if anyone goes soon, was saffron gnocchi with lamb sugo and fresh peas.

←

Glad it worked well for you. Never heard of a "sugo"; what is it, a ragu of sorts?

[philadining]

Sugo is just a term for sauce, usually used in reference to a meat sauce, so yeah, not so different from a ragu. At least that's what I've assumed from seeing it on a few menus, and eating a few, maybe it's more nuanced than that!

[matthewj]

sugo means sauce. And it is usually a meat sauce. But sugo is made most of the time with a various assortment of meats, ect... and is an intence extraction of meat with the stock or sauce passed through a medium sized strainer, or tamis to extract some actual protien as well as the essence of the meat. Usually served but not exclusively as a heavyier dish with taglitelle.

[Phil Ward]

Had a very nice meal here on Wed night.

Very nice service. Food was very imaginative and presented in a casual yet well thought out manner. Found a good Rose from Frogs Leap and a pretty good Barbera at reasonable prices considering the PLCB.

I recommend you give it a try.

Phil