The Rest of Italy

[bills]

Notes from am Italian dinner accompanied by ‘anything but Piemonte and Tuscany”.

The wines turned out to be a great surprise to us all, for the most part – a humbling guessing game in terms of trying to blind taste, but a great learning opportunity.

Sachetto Prosecco (Colli Trevagiani) – pleasant an bubbly – what more can one expect?

1998 Rubino della Palazzola (Umbria) - 80% Cabernet Sauvignon/20% Merlot blend aged in 100% new oak. Fairly dark wine with some floral element and some funky oak, a bit warm, and very approachable now, though it will hold for years.

2001 Cusimano Sagana (Sicily) – this 100% Nero d’Avola was very good – lots of oak in the nose, smooth in the middle and a spritz of lemon/acidity at the end. A grape to keep an eye on.

1999 Canua Sforzato (Valtellina) – this unusual wine was quite light in colour. Produced from Nebbiolo grapes dried on mats, it had the definite late harvest indicators, yet was lighter in body than expected. It was better served this early in the meal than it would have been later with cheese.

1999 Planeta Merlot – very well structured wine with a decidedly Bordeaux style of nose with only slight hints of the coffee/chocolate that you’d expect. The oak is ample yet not obtrusive and the wine drinks well now but clearly has time to go and should continue to improve.

1999 Azienda Agricola San Bonifacio Bradisismo (Veneto) – an IGT wine made from a blend of 65% Cab Sauv, 30% Carmenere (although that isn’t allowed on the label and Cab Franc is used instead) and 5% Merlot. An Italian Bordeaux, if you will. Dark, with a ripe nose showing a hint of band-aid. Big tannins and slight green note with good length and pepper at the end. I liked this a lot – about $35 US and well worth it!

1997 Feudi San Gregorio Serpico (Campania) - Aglianaco is the major grape here, but others play a part. Dark, deep nose you had to work at a bit, cherries and vanilla, seemed leaner than the previous wines and a bit tighter, but we realised it was only in comparison, and that this was a well balanced wine with staying power. I’d give it a couple more years.

1990 Lungarotti San Giorgio (Umbria) – Lungarotti is better known for their bargain priced Rubesco and the reserve version, Monticchio, both of which I find to be a bit rustic. This IGT blend of cab, sangiovese and cannaiolo has always struck me as much more refined. This one had a paler colour, an initial cheesiness in the nose, followed by cedar as it opened up, and was smooth with good acidity and some remaining soft tannin. As good as it will ever be, and will continue to hold.

1998 Illuminati Nico (Abruzzo) – you’d be excused for not knowing this one. made from Montepulciano grapes done in recioto dried style. Better known for their Lumen IGT wine, they make this in smaller amounts and it doesn’t seem to be very widely sold. It had a tartness but also a sweetness that went well with cheese and was 14.5% alcohol. Interesting wine.

[Florida Jim]

1998 Rubino della Palazzola (Umbria) - 80% Cabernet Sauvignon/20% Merlot blend aged in 100% new oak. Fairly dark wine with some floral element and some funky oak, a bit warm, and very approachable now, though it will hold for years.

When Cotarella was just getting started at Palazzola, he didn’t seem to be so enamored of new wood. I still have some of the 95 Rubino in the cellar waiting for its day. But the stuff I’ve tasted recently has convinced me that manipulation and new oak are his watchword and I have no use for either.

1999 Canua Sforzato (Valtellina) – this unusual wine was quite light in colour. Produced from Nebbiolo grapes dried on mats, it had the definite late harvest indicators, yet was lighter in body than expected. It was better served this early in the meal than it would have been later with cheese.

I recently tasted Sertoli Salis partial sfursat wine (I understand they do a full blown version as well, but I have not tasted it); quite odd and I’m not sure I liked it.

1999 Planeta Merlot – very well structured wine with a decidedly Bordeaux style of nose with only slight hints of the coffee/chocolate that you’d expect. The oak is ample yet not obtrusive and the wine drinks well now but clearly has time to go and should continue to improve.

Too much oak for this taster but some of the low-end stuff, both red and white, coming from this producer is really nice and well priced.

1997 Feudi San Gregorio Serpico (Campania) - Aglianaco is the major grape here, but others play a part. Dark, deep nose you had to work at a bit, cherries and vanilla, seemed leaner than the previous wines and a bit tighter, but we realised it was only in comparison, and that this was a well balanced wine with staying power. I’d give it a couple more years.

I always thought Serpico had too much lumber. I like aglianaco but I don’t think Feudi does. I’ll just stick with their whites.

1990 Lungarotti San Giorgio (Umbria) – Lungarotti is better known for their bargain priced Rubesco and the reserve version, Monticchio, both of which I find to be a bit rustic. This IGT blend of cab, sangiovese and cannaiolo has always struck me as much more refined. This one had a paler colour, an initial cheesiness in the nose, followed by cedar as it opened up, and was smooth with good acidity and some remaining soft tannin. As good as it will ever be, and will continue to hold.

This takes me back to nights in Spoleto; wonderful wine. And this from a guy who has little use for cabernet sauvignon in any manifestation. This is very well made wine.

Nice list.

Best, Jim

PS I responded to this before I realized who "bills" is; now that I do realize, the quality of the list does not surprise.

Edited February 24, 2005 by Florida Jim (log)

[Coop]

I really enjoyed the San Giorgio and the wierd Valtellina. The other wines were all excellent in my opinion. To my palate I wouldn't characterise any of them as over oaked.

I agree that Nero d' Avola is a grape to watch. I'm surprised at the different styles of this wine. I'll post my notes later, they are travelling around today in Mrs Coop's car.

[Coop]

Sachetto Prosecco.

Very nice way to start the evening. Didn't make notes about this one though.

1998 Rubino della Palazzola (Umbria).

Deep Red, Sweaty, Earthy and a little weedy. Nice in the mouth with a long dry finish. Serious wine.

2001 Cusimano Sagana (Sicily).

Purple with Pink edges. Strawberry and Tomato. Light wieght and well balanced. I too thought Sangiovese. This surprised me because I helped my friend Kim pick this wine from his cellar. He wasn't confident enough to pick a wine that fit the parameters of the evening.

1999 Canua Sforzato (Valtellina).

Looked like Burgundy or even Beaujolais, Raisins, Prunes, Cheese. In the mouth it was about the same wieght as a burgundy. I really liked this unusual wine. I will look for other wines from this region.

1999 Planeta Merlot (Sicilia).

Purple pink edges. Floral and bordeaux like, not as New World as the 2001 I had a couple of weeks ago. When it was announced it was Merlot I geussed it was Planeta. Lucky geuss though because this wine was more elegant then other Planeta merlots I've had.

1999 Inama Bradisismo (Veneto).

Deep red purple edges. Chocolate and Olives a bit green. Very big wine. Paulliac Like. I brought this wine from Seattle earlier this year. I bought a few bottles after having it at the restaurant Assiaggio. Love thier Soave.

1997 Feudi San Gregorio Serpico (Campania).

Dark Purple red edges. Very serious nose plums cherry. oak. Tight, medium mouth feel. Very serious wine.

1990 Lungarotti San Giorgio (Umbria).

Red with brown edges, cassis, memeory lets me down here. I liked this wine very much, probably why my notes on it were so thin. Young for a 1990.

1998 Illuminati Nico (Abruzzo).

Red with Brownish edge. Prunes, spice. Balanced. Very good to finish with this unusual serious wine. Nothing like my past experiences with this area (Citra).

I have loved Italian wine for about 2 decades now. Drinking these wines from lesser known areas can only make my obcession stronger. BTW I bought a bottle of Valtellina from Nino Negri today it's the Le Tense. This winery is the current darling of the Gamberro Rosso. No cure in sight.

_________________