WTN: Bacigalupi, Heirloom, Provenance, Mariage

[geo t.]

One of our distributors dropped off some samples last night, and the best wine of the bunch was one that I might least have expected. I dashed off these impressions as I tasted through them.

2002 Rudd Russian River Valley Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard, $60, 14.5% alc.: Medium straw color, with big toasty oak over rich Chardonnay – pear aromas; the rich flavors echo, with an added creaminess and what Kim describes as a note of “orange – sicle.” She also rightly points out that the wine doesn’t have enough acidity. The bold flavors border on being aggressive, with the oak (which tastes like a French variety) playing a prominent role in that regard, and while the wine will certainly have its fans, it’s not a style I care for. It’s just not very friendly right now; it needs time to show whether or not it can develop into what the price tag says it should be.

2001 Etude Carneros Pinot Noir Heirloom, $80, 14.5% alc.: Only 34 barrels of this almost inky colored Pinot Noir were produced; it shows deep, dark smoky plum and black cherry with a significant overlay of what seems to be French oak on the otherwise stingy aromatics that need to be coaxed from the glass with vigorous swirlatude. The big, ripe flavors pick things up with some serious concentration, formidable structure, a little earth, a bit of heat and a certain green streak. This is a big, big wine that needs substantial cellar time; it has the fruit, tannins and acidity to age for 5 – 10 years, but the heat concerns me. With extended air, it mellows a bit, but doesn’t lose the hot quality. Try it in ’09 to see how it’s coming along.

2001 Provenance Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, $35, 14.5% alc.: A dark garnet in color that’s typical of a strapping young Cab, this one exudes sweet oak, chocolate, confectioners’ sugar and cherries on the nose; these characteristics follow through on the palate with the emphasis on the chocolate – cherry, and a good dose of tannins on the medium – full to full – bodied frame. It’s fairly long on the finish, turning earthy on the end, and while it’s not an unpleasant wine (we’ve had a number of Aussie, Cal and some even Languedoc reds that exude a chocolate character), neither is it what I want to drink with my New York strip.

2000 Martin Ray Mariage Cabernet Sauvignon, 55% Napa, 23% Mendocino, 22% Sonoma, $16, 13.8% alc.: This deep, dark garnet proved to be the best wine of the four, because of its balanced fruit and structure. It features cassis, black currant and black cherry flavors and aromas, with a nice kiss of oak and little hints of earth. Medium full – bodied, with a smooth mouthfeel and a decent finish, this is by no means a “great” Cabernet, but it is a solid, satisfying one, more food friendly and “correct” than the Provenance. A nice glass of wine to have with your porterhouse or standing rib roast; you could call this “real wine,” because it tastes like wine, not chocolate or Port.

Reporting from Day-twah,

geo t.