Hiramatsu

[Steve Klc]

Especially the dessert wine/lavender gelee.  I am a sucker for dessert wine gelees.  Thanks for the update cabrales, though where's the fusion "in the most profound sense?"  These desserts sound so decidely French, and classic French at that, that they could be 20 years old.  Perhaps it's in the presentation, so "imbued with Japanese culture that we get a true Hegelian synthesis of the two worlds."

[Bux]

I haven't been there, but from what I've read (and most of that has been on eGullet.com) this is French food in the classic sense. It may be up to date or even cutting edge French food in some aspects but certainly in a classic mold, if not entirely traditional.

 These desserts sound so decidely French, and classic French at that, that they could be 20 years old.

I hope you mean that in a positive way.

[magnolia]

Sorry I haven’t posted on this yet – It has been nuts since returning, and I wanted to do it justice. I was indeed there for the first day of the Spring menu. I didn't know the menu was posted ! so my attempts at translating may miss the mark slightly - still, it is interesting to see what, exactly, I ate...some of differs slightly from what's listed. Don't know whether this means that they hadn't fully decided what to offer, or whether the menu is just a 'guide'. Anyway, here's my "review". I have annotated slightly with benefit of Cabrales's post of the menu...

I had lunch at H. last Tuesday, April 16 (?) a perfect Paris day - warm and sunny – that seemed to bring out the best in people. As mentioned, I’d reserved for two as a precaution, and in fact I almost coaxed a friend to join me but he chickened out at the potential time he thought it would take. So un-French of him.  But in fact, he needn’t have worried, because the service was such – and the number of diners so small and so lacking in ‘you are but the lowly diner’ attitude - that I am sure they would have accommodated his busy schedule.  

So I showed up on my own, with a French foodie magazine to read, and was greeted by name by the (very young, and charmant) French maitre d’.

As it happened, Tuesday was 1) the first day of Hiramatsu’s new “Printemps” (Spring) menu, and 2) one of the few days when Hiramatsu happened to be in town, and thus in the kitchen.

Décor is simple and sophisticated:  a wonderful bouquet of lilies in the tiny entrance vestibule; bright bouquets on each table; exposed stone wall, comfortable stitched leather chairs… nothing superfluous, but not minimalist or impersonal either.  

There ar currently three ‘menu’ options on offer (my notes are sketchy so some of this may be slightly off-base,but it gives the general idea):

1) Menu d’affaires for €46, which includes three predetermined courses, either mini or half-portions (I didn’t catch this)  of one each of the starters; fish; and desserts (which is probably a full portion)

2) Menu dégustation, for €92, which includes half-portions of the same starter and fish as above, plus a second starter; a meat course; a cheese course; and the same dessert as above.

3) Standard à la carte (full portions of starters go from €38 – 46 ; fish from €34 – 68; meat from €40-42; cheese (I neglected to write the price down) and desserts from about €15 - €20

Wine, coffee, water – all separate.

I chose the menu dégustation because I thought that this represented the best value for the money, and since it was lunch I thought half-portions would be fine. I let the sommelier choose wines, I gave him free reign to pick anything he thought would go best with the dishes.  I said I wanted at least two, possibly three (i.e. a wine with cheese or dessert)  

The pre-meal amuse-bouche consisted of three shot glasses of mousse – one of fava beans, a purée with one full bean on top; a mousse of mango and ginger; and one of gelée de canard. I thought that moussing the lowly fava bean was a perfect example of what an amuse-bouche should be, smooth and “neutral” tasting – sort of an experiment to see whether it would be worthwhile to include it as a full dish some time in the future? Anyway, it proved a good predecessor to the duck, which was very earthy and rich, and the third, very refreshing. This course brought to mind one of the courses I’d had a few months ago at Tetsuya Wakuda’s Mju restaurant in London, and it wasn’t the last similarity between the two (favourable, I might add).

My first ‘official’ course was a roasted pavé de foie gras with tiny cubes of eggplant, with a sauce of ‘truffled’ balsamic vinegar and paper thin slices of citronelle (I didn't recognise this topping as lemongrass, as it more resembled a candied slice of fruit, rather than a leaf or blade, as if a lemon had been sliced horizontally somewhere through the middle and then candied ...but what do I know?).

The eggplant had been soaked in sugar (or something to this effect) until they resembled apples in texture and sweetness – in fact I would not have known it was eggplant at all, so mellow was the flavor.  Yummy, if a bit stingy in size…even if the portion were doubled.

The wine chosen for this was a 1998 Chablis from Duplessis, which was pleasantly citrussy and metallic, with th smoothness of butter. It complemented the amuse-bouche but was a bit overwhelmed by the foie gras. I had only a couple of sips left by the time my next dish arrived…

…was a generous hunk of Breton lobster in broth, with caviar mousse and pureed fennel. The mousse was fantastic – resembling a very intensely flavoured, high-falutin’ taramasalata. I’m not a huge fennel fan, but this was so smooth and buttery that it had lost its bitterness completely. For me, this was actually the standout dish of the meal and if it’s available next time I go, I’d order it à la carte. Once again, I was reminded of Mju in terms of the presentation and interesting combination of flavours.

My fish course was goujonettes of sole and langoustines, with a couple of tiny mussels, over green asparagus, all in a seafood sauce (côte à côte - sort of in a tic tac toe pattern - I've no idea why this is necessary to the description of the dish, it has nothing to do with the taste an everything to do with presentation - maybe they describe it thus to indicate that the asparagus arrives in spears rather than cut up, pureed or whatever). . Again, this is not something I would have chosen – sole is too bland for me – but it was nice enough, and so beautifully presented.  

With the sole, I was served a glass of medoc – a Chateau Loustaneuf, also 1998. Good but nothing spectacular. In fact I’d say that if the Breton lobster starter was the standout, the choice of wine was the let-down. Both were pleasant, and at €9 and €11, respectively, they didn’t break the bank. But I never mentioned price, and with a list that was supposed to be outstanding - and a sommelier dedicated to only 18 diners, I was really surprised at the lack of creativity here. Mju, which has no stars (possibly in part because its list is 75% new world? Not sure how Michelin views this) does a really creditable job of picking wine to go with odd and difficult flavours. I think the sommelier at H. may have played it way too safe.  

Next up was part of a rack of lamb, in a watercress cream sauce, with a single raviolo of “foie gras de chèvre” , anyway, I would not have known it wasn’t a foie gras de canard or d’oie. (OK - I see the translation, but I don't think there was any cheese in the raviolo. I think it was just liver. Cheese and liver together...? I don't know how I'd feel about that...,)

Penultimate course was cheese, à volonté, though I exercised more willpower than usual – honestly, I just love cheese and could live happily on it (but I neglected to write them down, by this time I was well and truly giddy). To top it off, at this point, H. was making the rounds and introducing himself to diners, and as he approached me, I had just come to a page in my magazine in which the restaurant was reviewed. This was a total coincidence in that I had no idea it was in the magazine, and Hiramatsu and the sommelier were both pictured. I had one of those ‘art imitates life’ moments. He was very smiley, friendly and gracious.

Over my dessert (followed by coffee and four chocolates) – a savarin (resembles a madeleine in shape and texture) of “agrumes” (which I understand now are citrus fruits, but I’m not sure which ones) with crème chantilly made with citrus and cognac (no rum in mine), and a shot glass of bitter chocolate sorbet – I queried the maitre d’ about the restaurant, its clientele,  etc. He told me that the restaurant won’t make money for ‘awhile’, that it’s a labour of love. There are 17 staff for 18 diners. Also that 90% of the customers are American – that Ile St Louis itself is like a little American colony, and borne out by the fact that throughout the meal, whenever the phone rang, he reverted immediately to English. Also several people stopped by to try for reservations, and they were Americans (so who says Americans are not flying these days? Maybe these were all locals). Indeed every table bar one had at least one American, though the diners across from me were three very elegantly dressed Japanese ladies. One table of four never showed up, and went unfilled – but supposedly the restaurant is fully booked for dinner through the end of May.

Overall, a thoroughly pleasant experience. I left sated but not stuffed, perfect for lunch, and I am glad I went.- though I think it was a bit outrageously priced at €140+ all in.  However I don’t think this would do for a hungry person, and if you ordered off the menu, you couldn’t get out of there for much less than €200. I believe the menu is the same at dinner, and there were definitely things I would love to have tried. Would I go back? Maybe if I have a windfall or if someone offers…but I do think Mju is a very comparable experience, and much better value.

[cabrales]

So I showed up on my own, with a French foodie magazine to read, and was greeted by name by the (very young, and charmant) French maitre d’....

citronelle (I didn't recognise this topping as lemongrass ....

Next up was part of a rack of lamb, in a watercress cream sauce, with a single raviolo of “foie gras de chèvre” , anyway, I would not have known it wasn’t a foie gras de canard or d’oie. (OK - I see the translation, but I don't think there was any cheese in the raviolo. I think it was just liver. Cheese and liver together...? I don't know how I'd feel about that...,)...

Hiramatsu and the sommelier were both pictured....

I believe the menu is the same at dinner ...

magnolia -- Thanks for your meal description    A couple of thoughts on my part in response:

-- The menu appears to be the same for lunch and dinner, with the menu d'affaires not available for dinner. One early report of Hiramatsu indicated he intended to change his china each season, and not just his menu!

-- The maitre d' is indeed quite solicitous. Were he only somewhat humble, with respect to the restaurant's aspirations and achievements to date.  I wondered if you engaged him in discussions about the restaurant, and, if so, what he said.

-- The formal English translation for citronelle is "citronella", typically.  I've been told by maitre d's that it is a form of lemongrass.  Interestingly, a translator indicates that the French term for lemongrass is "schénanthe", but I have never seen that used on menus. I think "melisse" in French might have something to do with lemongrass as well (?).

http://www.ibiblio.org/herbmed/faqs/culi-2-19-lemong.html

http://www-ang.kfunigraz.ac.at/~katzer....it.html

-- Was the magazine article you describe the Pudlowski one, or is there another one with a picture of both the chef and the sommelier?

-- On the "foie gras de chevre", which does not appear listed on the website, could the reference perhaps been to "foie gras de chevreuil" (or foie gras of deer)? It is an unlikely explanation because Hiramatsu should not be able to procure foie gras of deer in sufficient quantities and I have never heard of liver of deer being served.  

[Bux]

Foie de chevre or foie de chevreuil would be one thing, but foie gras of either would be something else. I've never heard of either goats or deer being force fed to enlarge their livers. I'd suspect the "gras" part must be artistic license.

[cabrales]

but I do think Mju is a very comparable experience, and much better value.

magnolia -- You mentioned the small portion sizes at Hiramatsu with respect to the tasting menu. At Mju, weren't the dishes even smaller (esp. the venison bits), even though there were more of them?  

On my first visit to Hiramatsu (tasting menu), I left feeling full (with full = "don't want to eat anymore"). On my second (a la carte), I did not leave feeling full but that was not due to small portion size, it was due to the dishes being not tasty and my leaving considerable food on the plate (in some cases, 75% plus). I have visited Mju three times, and have not once felt full. I had enough food at Mju, though.  

On whether Hiramatsu offers an experience comparable to Mju's, I left Hiramatsu thinking the cuisine was French. When I think of Mju, the cuisine would be better considered Japanese with certain French and other touches, or nebulous "fusion" cuisine. I know the distinctions are difficult, and both places accord emphasis to presentation.  

[magnolia]

-- The maitre d' is indeed quite solicitous. Were he only somewhat humble, with respect to the restaurant's aspirations and achievements to date.  I wondered if you engaged him in discussions about the restaurant, and, if so, what he said.

-- The formal English translation for citronelle is "citronella"..

-- Was the magazine article you describe the Pudlowski one, or is there another one with a picture of both the chef and the sommelier?

The maitre d' is definitely not humble. But I thought it was kind of refreshing to find someone so starry-eyed about his employer, and he obviously loves his job. We did have a chat - one of the benefits of having such a small restaurant is that once everyone is seated (at lunch, anyway) there is lots of time for him to go from table to table, checking on people and talking to anyone who is interested (i.e. me).

We chatted about what was on the site before, the H. empire, and some pie-in-the-sky plans about maximising the space. For example, there are offices upstairs that could be put to better (i.e. revenue-generating) use if they could figure out a way to open them up to the public, but this would mean adding another entrace or having people traipse through the restaurant on their way upstairs which I think is probably a design no-no when it comes to Michelin.

- re: Citronella - isn't that what you light to keep mosquitoes away?!

- magazine article: yes, the Pudlowksi one from Saveurs (which is remarkably similar to US Saveur in design - do you know if there's a connection? also, what other French food / wine mags do you think are worth reading?)

- thanks for the translator thing. By the way, I have been looking for a good site or dictionary or food and cooking terms. For example, I have a French duck recipe that says "Pouponnez le canard". My dictionary translates "pouponner" as "to mother". I have a pretty good idea of how French people think/speak, but this one's a real stumper. Thoughts?

As for the Mju comparison, the plates at Mju are definitely smaller - but there are many more of them. Tasting menu for lunch at £25 (when I last ate there) includes five; dinner at £50 includes eight. The attention to detail, ingredients, creativity, presentation, etc.  is comparable though perhaps H. has more costly ingredients. So on food only, I think Mju represents much better value. When you add wine, of course the sky's the limit - at either place. I just thought that Mju's selection was much more inventive and interesting, a genuine effort to find something truly special to go with the food. Just one person's perception, however, and I claim no real expertise.

As for feeling full, etc. - I'd just say neither of these places would satisfy the 'hungry man/lumberjack' test. l didn't leave either place 'stuffed', a feeling that I don't like anyway but I don't have much willpower, so it's largely my own fault if I leave stuffed...' but I wasn't hungry, either. I hate to be stuffed at lunch in France, anyway, because it means I won't be hungry for dinner :-)...opportunity cost, you know. Plus as H. is right around the corner from Berthillon...you get the picture...though NB: Berthillon is closed for the school hols.

[cabrales]

The maitre d' is definitely not humble. But I thought it was kind of refreshing to find someone so starry-eyed about his employer, . . .

- re: Citronella - isn't that what you light to keep mosquitoes away?! . . .

- magazine article: yes, the Pudlowksi one from Saveurs (which is remarkably similar to US Saveur in design - do you know if there's a connection? also, what other French food / wine mags do you think are worth reading?)

. . . . By the way, I have been looking for a good site or dictionary or food and cooking terms. . . . Thoughts?

magnolia -- Yes, on the H maitre d', I would say that his sense of the restaurant's being on the verge of greatness was genuine. During my second visit, I overheard him telling another diner that, when Pacaud started his own restaurant after working for Peyrot at Vivarois, he had very few "couverts" as well. A comparison to L'Ambroisie is hardly justified at this point. The maitre d' also likes to name-drop about celebrities that have eaten there, including other chefs. I think that's a sign of immaturity, although the outward presentation of this young maitre d' is quite mature.

On citronella, I wouldn't be surprised if it had a non-food use. However, rest assured that I have eaten citronelle enough that I would be struck by now by any ill effects of it.

I suspect the US and French Saveurs are linked. As you noted, the formats are incredibly similar, including with respect to the way the letters of the name of the magazine are presented. I like French Saveurs a lot better than US Saveurs. The content is more dedicated, obviously, to French restaurants in France, and that is my own area of interest. I subscribe to US Saveurs as well. I read L'Hotellerie, for which there is a French website, the French websites for Bottin Gourmand and Gault Millau, the magazine Gault Millau, the French language magazine Thuleries (or something like that), Figaro weekend editions, Where Magazines (free from hotels when I am in Paris), Elle A Table, four different London weekend papers (for their food sections) and various other magazines. I find that Saveurs French provides very good coverage, and Gault Millau magazine is competent. Where Magazine provides surprisingly adequate coverage of Paris. On restaurant guides, I rely on Michelin, but have almost every available French guide (e.g., Champerand, sic, Pudlowski, Lebey).

On wines, I am quite weak, but am boning up. I don't subscribe to any wine magazines, but do buy Wine Spectator from time to time.

On online translation services, I have not been satisfied with any of them. I used to use Babelfish for French words I did not understand, but have also found it inadequate for culinary terms.

Now, I sometimes do Yahoo searches for the names of unusual ingredients, but it is a highly imperfect process. I also use Craig Claiborne's encyclopedia of food terms (that's not the official name) for references in English with which I am unfamiliar.

[cabrales]

Hiramatsu appears to have more prix fixe tasting menus in place now, including a menu degustation at a much-higher price of 130 euros.

The menu d'affaires (business lunch menu) has been split into two levels of offerings -- 50.00 and 70.00 euros. There are further menus at 92.00 (this is likely the prior non-business-lunch, tasting menu) and 130.00.

http://www.hiramatsu.co.jp/lang_french/carte.html

Edited December 4, 2002 by cabrales (log)

[fresh_a]

Monday, Hiramatsu will be re-opening (as everyone knows) in the former Faugeron at 52 rue de Longchamp in the 16th. Anyone planning to go?

I've had a look at their 70 Euro business menu, which seems pretty reasonable if not inspiring...Hiramatsu

Edited October 24, 2004 by fresh_a (log)

[robert brown]

Can you get me a reservation? I'm kidding. I have no plans for Paris. What is the new capacity versus the old? I think it's a controversial restaurant, but it often happens that moves to larger quarters often result in a negative change in quality.

[pirate]

Thanks for the information. I'll be in Paris about two weeks from now. I've never dined at Hiramatsu in Paris, nor at any of the several restaurants in Tokyo. I may give it a try for lunch.

[fresh_a]

As a bit of an "avant-gout" as it were, here's a sneak peek at their menu prix-fixe. As they open tomorrow evening , I guess there's no harm in it.

Amuse bouche

Entrée au choix

Fricassé de petits gris en millefeuille forestiere, gaspacho vert

Raviolis de foie gras a la mouselline de morille

Pressé de poireaux au champagne et foie gras de canard

Potagere de legumes aux truffes

Main Dishes

Rouleau de lapin aux truffes

Croustillant de selle d'agneau et son confit , petits légumes niçois

Carré de saumon mi-cuit, sauce au vin jaune

Noix de Saint-Jacques poelé et sa rhubarbe en brick, sauce champagne au baies roses

Desserts

Fraicheur de fruits rouges au Kirsch, mousse au yauort, croquant aux agrumes

Tatin caramelisé, glace Earl Grey et son exotique a l'aneth

Gateau au chocolat "Hiramatsu"

Bon apétit!

[fresh_a]

The new restaurant will have 38 covers, a bigger team including Philippe Blanchet, former restaurant manager of the Jardin des Sens in Montpellier and Thomas Vincent, former maître d‘ at Taillevent,as well as the same director from the St Louis establishment, Hideya Ishizuka.

Edited October 24, 2004 by fresh_a (log)

[pirate]

I'm very grateful to you, fresh a, for supplying the lunch menu. It did not come up on their website. It all reads well, but as we know, it's the freshness and quality of the ingredients and above all, the execution, that counts. An alternative of cheese in lieu of dessert would be nice. The restaurant is rather small. I'm on a business trip and will probably lunch by myself. Actually I find this is a good test of welcome and service. By that I mean how much they make you feel at home and appreciated as a client even though you're a stranger.

[fresh_a]

Of course it didn't come up on the website. Noone knows the menu yet! (Except select industry insiders, of course!)

[Poppy Quince]

After having possibly the best meal of my life at the previous Hiramatsu location in September 2003, I was thrilled to get a reservation for dinner a few weeks ago, just a few days before they closed for the move. I had read Patricia Wells' disparaging recent review but discounted it as I couldn't believe the quality had dropped as much as she said. I was wrong...Wells was right.

We had the 'menu degustation d'été' (although it was already the first week of October; apparently they weren't going to commit to automne until after the move.) I can't even recall the dishes at this point, as they were not in any way memorable. It's possible that the attention of the restaurant was on the upcoming move and not on the few last diners at the original location, but at those prices that attitude can't be justified. I was extremely disappointed and would have to hear extraordinarily positive reports of the new site before considering a return. If you do go, please post your response.

[pirate]

I'm very grateful to you , Poppy Quince, for taking the trouble to write. If I do dine there, I will report. Relocation might help. Bellecour relocated and the revews in the new location were much better.

[fresh_a]

I'm very grateful to you , Poppy Quince, for taking the trouble to write. If I do dine there, I will report. Relocation might help. Bellecour relocated and the revews in the new location were much better.

←

Bellecour did not relocate.

The owners of Les Ormes, formerly in the 16eme bought the Bellecour and turned it into the new Les Ormes

[pirate]

Thanks for the correction. I've never dined at either place. A restaurant I'm curious about is La Table de Lancaster.

[milla]

The website at Hiramatsu has just been updated to include the new carte. You can find it here.

Hiramatsu

[fresh_a]

Thanks, camm

[Le Zouave]

After having possibly the best meal of my life at the previous Hiramatsu location in September 2003, I was thrilled to get a reservation for dinner a few weeks ago, just a few days before they closed for the move. I had read Patricia Wells' disparaging recent review but discounted it as I couldn't believe the quality had dropped as much as she said.  I was wrong...Wells was right. 

We had the 'menu degustation d'été' (although it was already the first week of October; apparently they weren't going to commit to automne until after the move.)  I can't even recall the dishes at this point, as they were not in any way memorable.  It's possible that the attention of the restaurant was on the upcoming move and not on the few last diners at the original location, but at those prices that attitude can't be justified.  I was extremely disappointed and would have to hear extraordinarily positive reports of the new site before considering a return.  If you do go, please post your response.

←

So, has anyone been to the "new" Hiramatsu yet? I went for lunch today -- and can only agree with Poppy Quince: "not in any way memorable". Sad, isn't it?

[Le Zouave]

PS: BTW, I never had one of the best meals of my life, even when the restaurant was in the 4th... Actually, I just don't understand why a skilled japanese chef tries to cook like, say, Robuchon or any other "classic" french chef. What's the point?

[tighe]

PS: BTW, I never had one of the best meals of my life, even when the restaurant was in the 4th... Actually, I just don't understand why a skilled japanese chef tries to cook like, say, Robuchon or any other "classic" french chef. What's the point?

←

Probably for the same reason that someone like Robuchon and many other French chefs are trying to incorporate Asian techniques and flavors into their cuisine.