The celebrity maitre d'

[Gifted Gourmet]

article from the NY Post

The talent may be back in the kitchen, but the power is in the front of the restaurant.... the maitre d' ....He's the help. Or, considering that chefs used to be the help, he's the help's help. Those looking for a benchmark moments in the hyper-accelerating food world need look no further. Hail the age of the celebrity maitre d'.....  He notes who buys expensive wine, who doesn't eat foie gras, whose mistress doesn't like dessert. Draxler's biggest fear these days is that Frank Bruni, the new restaurant critic at the Times, will sneak in without being noticed.

Is the maitre d' really so very essential to his employers?

So what's going on here? "The maitre d' can make or break you," says Boulud. "If he doesn't book properly, you can lose 20 percent of your business.

Is he too young? Too old? Do you tip him or her (the golden handshake)? Friendly or condescending? Knowledgeable? Many factors go into making the celebrity, or any, maitre d' ...

Your opinions on this new, and actually not so new, position in a restaurant ...

[StudentChefEclipse]

Hrmm... celebrity maitre d's... well, everyone gets their 15 minutes, according to A. Warhol.

Personally, I think a friendly host/ess and super-service are what's necessary to FOH. Condescending people need not apply.

Of course, great service and lousy food will lose you business too. As will a war between the front and back. So if you have a star chef and a star maitre, just make sure they don't collide and blow up the place in a huge ball of gaseous flame.

[chow guy]

Hrmm... celebrity maitre d's... well, everyone gets their 15 minutes, according to A. Warhol.

Personally, I think a friendly host/ess and super-service are what's necessary to FOH. Condescending people need not apply.

Of course, great service and lousy food will lose you business too. As will a war between the front and back. So if you have a star chef and a star maitre, just make sure they don't collide and blow up the place in a huge ball of gaseous flame.

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I worked at a place years ago where the arrogant Maitre'd seemed to be a big part of the draw. Vogue featured the place as "Where to Eat Now" and folks were fighting to get in. It amazed me that the more abuse he doled out the more they wanted to get in (Studio 54 syndrome). One night the producers of "A Life in the Theatre" took over the place after service for an opening night party. The playwright, David Mamet showed up at the door in jeans and a leather jacket. The Maitre'd looked down his very long nose and said to Mamet, "May I help you? " I'm David Mamet", he replied. "and I'm Queen Elizabeth". replied the maitre d'. Mamet turned on his heels and walked away. I don't think he ever made it to that party.

[Joanne212]

I find I will frequent the same restaurants over and over again, simply because I know the Maitre d' will treat me well. When I'm dining out for business, pleasure, or special occasions, the last thing I want to do is encounter a hassle with a reservationist, or at the door.

If I go to a new restaurant and my very first impression is not a good one, chances are very likely the rest of the experience will be disappointing as well, since my mood has already soured.

[arielle]

I've never really understood the cachet of the abusive Maitre d' - why oh why do people fall for the old "he treats us like shit, so this place *must* be cool" thing?

In answer to GG's question, YES, the Maitre d' or host or hostess can "make or break" your place. Of course it depends on the restaurant......but I know of a certain place where the host has upped their profits phenomenally just by 'seating' the room better, allowing tables to be turned.....it's hard work for both FOH and BOH, but there's more money for everyone. And *that* makes the world go round!

By the way, I think the whole "celebrity" thing is a little overboard, don't you? It's kind of like being famous in a Paris Hilton way.

[Joanne212]

I've never really understood the cachet of the abusive Maitre d' - why oh why do people fall for the old "he treats us like shit, so this place *must* be cool" thing?

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Actually, I think it works in the opposite direction. More like "this place is cool, so I might have more tolerance than usual for an abusive Maitre d'..."

I think that mentality went out in the 80's though. I can't even remember the last time I was treated rudely at a restaurant's front desk. Incompetently maybe, but not rudely.

[abbe]

you rang ?

Many factors go into making the celebrity, or any, maitre d' ...

Your opinions on this new, and actually not so new, position in a restaurant ...

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MY opinion?

well umm how much time ya got ?

By the way, I think the whole "celebrity" thing is a little overboard, don't you? It's kind of like being famous in a Paris Hilton way.

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sniff... sure scoff now. but wait 'til i get my own TV series then you'll be sorry!

[Joanne212]

Oh my God, we were just talking about you!

I had dinner the other night at Spice Market with a friend who works for Jean-Georges and your book came up in the conversation! I can't believe you're here, what a small world!

My friend tried to buy your book at Barnes and Noble, but it's sold out. And then he was joking around with our waiter, asking if he read it. Our waiter said he's waiting for his roommate to finish reading it, but he hears it's "brilliant."

Oh heavens, I can't wait to tell my friend I saw you here.

[Joanne212]

Abbe,

Last night I read your entire "blahg" and preview! Murder-Kitchen! Johnny-g! LOL!

I have dined in every single place you have ever worked. I ordered a copy for myself and one for my friend. I can't wait!

[fatmat]

A good Maitre d' is worth his/her weight in gold. Sadly, having worked in the restaurant trade, I've found so many of them are simply sycophantic slime balls who treat their staff poorly whilst smiling sickly sweet to their customers.

[abbe]

Oh my God, we were just talking about you!

I had dinner the other night at Spice Market with a friend who works for Jean-Georges and your book came up in the conversation! I can't believe you're here, what a small world!

My friend tried to buy your book at Barnes and Noble, but it's sold out. And then he was joking around with our waiter, asking if he read it. Our waiter said he's waiting for his roommate to finish reading it, but he hears it's "brilliant."

Oh heavens, I can't wait to tell my friend I saw you here.

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wow thank you so much joanne212, you're so sweet !

do i know your friend personally ? [but don't tell me his name, i think BigBrother may be watching ]

you should probably warn him to be careful-- a few people within the company have already been reprimanded for talking about the book. and recently i heard they've been warned: any discussion will result in termination (?!!)

i really appreciate your kind words and support. thank you again and please thank your friend for me too [and the waiter, if you ever go back to spice-market!]

Sadly, having worked in the restaurant trade, I've found so many of them are simply sycophantic slime balls who treat their staff poorly whilst smiling sickly sweet to their customers.

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hahahahhahahaa yeah me too! except for the smiling part

i'm kidding. the staffs usually loves me ASK ANYBODY

[Joanne212]

do i know your friend personally ? [but don't tell me his name, i think BigBrother may be watching ]

you should probably warn him to be careful-- a few people within the company have already been reprimanded for talking about the book. and recently i heard they've been warned: any discussion will result in termination (?!!) 

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LOL! According to my friend, "Big Brother" is indeed watching; he heard grumblings about this forum before I got the chance to speak to him first! He does know you from around, but you two have never been introduced formally.

Abbe, from my friend's description, I think I remember you! If I remmeber correctly, and I think I do, you do indeed fit into the title of "celebrity Maitre D'" very well.

[abbe]

you do indeed fit into the title of "celebrity Maitre D'" very well.

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i fit the "celebrity" title ?

hahahaa. why-- because of my stupidity and over-inflated ego ?

you're so nice, joanne212

[Joanne212]

No, Abbe. Because of your allure and your strong professional presence. Look what a little birdie showed me!

Abbe, I got your book and I read it completely through in 2 days; I was up until 3AM reading it on night. I loved it!!! Your insight, humility and humor is priceless. Your view into the fabulous world of hot restaurants was both compelling and very enlightening. LOL!

I just wanted to say congratulations on a job well done! Good luck with all your endeavors!

By the way, I'm not that nice. Ask anyone who has ever worked for me.

[abbe]

you liked it? yay! thank you!

if you don't mind, i'd love to hear what your friend has to say too once he's had a chance to read it-- since he works for the company and all. is he FOH or BOH or UTH (heehee office/financial aka "under the house" in the basement)

oh tell him i heard all about the new "confidentiality agreement" policy hahahahahaa

thanks again so much, joanne212

[p.s. ugh i hate that picture]

[Joanne212]

Abbe, my friend absolutely loved your book. He went out of town last weekend and brought it along to read on his trip, and he called me just to tell me he was "cracking up all alone in the airport." LOL

He already gave your book away to his co-worker (they are both BOH) because making everybody sign the Conf. Agrmnt. just made everybody more curious to read it.

Abbe, you're going to be very successful with this! My friend told me he is buying one for all his friends for X-mas; I think that is a great idea. I know all my friends who love dining out (and fashion, and films, and NYC, and gossip, and mtotrcycles...!!! ) are going to love this gift.

Congratulations again, you deserve it.

[Joanne212]

From today's NY Post. (scroll down)

About our very own "celebrity Maitre d'."[Note these threads have been merged.]

So much for "confidentiality"!

If a "confidentiality agreement" cannot keep information out of the hands of the press, what, if any, recourse does an organization have?

Do they even have the right to censor the thoughts and experiences of their employees? What about the First Amendment? I am not well versed in Libel Law,but doesn't a work have to be malicious to be libelous? How can a compnay try to squelch your right to free speech and artistic expression?

It doesn't seem Jean-Georges is any stranger to the art of media manipulation; isn't he being hypocritical? The sword cuts both ways.

(By the way, this book makes a great holiday gift! LOL! )

Edited November 14, 2004 by Bux (log)

[Suzanne F]

I've had to sign such agreements regarding recipes and procedures a couple of times, and had no problem with that. I am not a lawyer, but I expect all that -- including the care and maintenance of customers -- might come under "trade secrets." In which case, yes, the employer would have the right to forbid an employee (or ex-employee, for a number of years following separation) to go public with anything relating to the business. Not allowing discussion of published accounts just seems ridiculous to me, though; not in a legal sense, but in human terms.

But frankly, I'm appalled at the idea of "kiss-and-tell" exposes by former employees. Tawdry, especially if done just to make a buck and/or get back at a former employer. Exposes by whistle-blowers are fine by me, though. They contribute something of value to the moral world.

[Gifted Gourmet]

Thank you both, abbe and Joanne, for your contributions to this thread .... I had no idea of what was involved in being a maitre d' until I found your book, abbe, and began to read it! You are something else and I, for one, am duly impressed!

[Pumpkin Lover]

Hot damn. This book and that Times piece by Coco Valdes (is that her name? The hostess from Hue?) are making FOH jobs sound all lucrative now for writers. Maybe I should change careers....

[bloviatrix]

Confidentiality agreements are very common. Basically, he doesn't want his employees from "profiting" from their experiences working for him. The First Amendment only applies to government censorship.

I'm sure the lawyers here can provide better insight.

[madziast]

Joanne212 - thanks for reminding me that shamelessrestaurants.com is back up - they were closed down by some pending lawsuits late summer. and thanks for mentioning PX, had no clue it was out, judging by the blog, it should be quite entertaining (certainly not "objective")...although i thought that the whole genre of ppl ratting on their bosses/biz was over... (after the nannies, devil wears prada/vogue, etc.) guess not in the restaurant biz, to which we all have more access than the offices of vogue or nannyland

[KatieLoeb]

Confidentiality agreements are very common.  Basically, he doesn't want his employees from "profiting" from their experiences working for him.  The First Amendment only applies to government censorship.

I'm sure the lawyers here can provide better insight.

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I'm no lawyer, but it would seem that the employee in question is undoubtedly "profiting" from having worked there, and that any "trade secret" from a restaurant, whether it's a recipe or the script that the reservationist uses when they answer the phone can be protected by an employer from "theft". It's not just WHAT they do, but HOW they do it that makes a business successful, and an employer has every right to try and keep "his way" of doing business to himself. The way to do that legally is through requiring confidentiality agreements from the staff. It's a pain in the ass to police that stuff, unless someone does something egregious like write a tell-all book.

[abbe]

From today's NY Post. (scroll down)

About our very own "celebrity Maitre d'."[Note these threads have been merged.]

It doesn't seem Jean-Georges is any stranger to the art of media manipulation; isn't he being hypocritical? The sword cuts both ways.

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joanne212, if i have to thank you one more time i might just have to have your baby or something

is JG being hypocritical? probably. but it's to be expected i suppose.

YES the sword does indeed cut both ways. and i for one am proud to have wielded it in the opposite direction

But frankly, I'm appalled at the idea of "kiss-and-tell" exposes by former employees. Tawdry, especially if done just to make a buck and/or get back at a former employer.  Exposes by whistle-blowers are fine by me, though. They contribute something of value to the moral world.

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my "expose" is an almost-daily four year journal. if i did it just to "get back" at my employer, i would have had to have some serious psychic ESP going on.

as in like: gee i think i'll start this diary just in case four years from now i work for someone who's a complete ASS boy it would be really really great to have this 500 page publishable document lying around so's i can exact my revenge (?).

come on now

as for the moral world: well, i can't say whether i've had any value as such.

but i CAN say: i worked, i saw, i spoke. not many people have the opportunity to be heard in any significant or consequential way. i did. and for this i am grateful beyond words. if i never "make a buck" i could give a flying fuck

by the way, the book is clearly marked "HUMOR" right on the back cover.

Thank you both, abbe and Joanne, for your contributions to this thread .... I had no idea of what was involved in being a maitre d' until I found your book, abbe, and began to read it! You are something else and I, for one, am duly impressed!

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no no no thank YOU !

wow you are like the local forum celebrity i am HONORED

The First Amendment only applies to government censorship.

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is that true? i spoke to a libel attorney of course and after perusing the book he pretty much straight up told me "no worries" i am protected by the first amendment

Joanne212 - thanks for reminding me that shamelessrestaurants.com is back up - they were closed down by some pending lawsuits late summer.  and thanks for mentioning PX, had no clue it was out, judging by the blog, it should be quite entertaining (certainly not "objective")...although i thought that the whole genre of ppl ratting on their bosses/biz was over... (after the nannies, devil wears prada/vogue, etc.) guess not in the restaurant biz, to which we all have more access than the offices of vogue or nannyland

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no it's not "objective" at all. i ain't no barbara-walters-- this is a DIARY peoples sheesh.

I DID NOT RAT ON ANY BOSSES. i took plenty OUT just to be NICE believe that

I'm no lawyer, but it would seem that the employee in question is undoubtedly "profiting" from having worked there, and that any "trade secret" from a restaurant, whether it's a recipe or the script that the reservationist uses when they answer the phone can be protected by an employer from "theft".  It's not just WHAT they do, but HOW they do it that makes a business successful, and an employer has every right to try and keep "his way" of doing business to himself.  The way to do that legally is through requiring confidentiality agreements from the staff.  It's a pain in the ass to police that stuff, unless someone does something egregious like write a tell-all book.

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oh please. look don't get me wrong i don't have a single thing against the man. i actually like him very much i think he is sweet and smart and talented and an all-around nice guy.

i assure you there are NO "trade secrets" in my diary no "scripts" nor recipes nor any special tactics that aren't already known and practiced far and wide throughout the entire industry.

there were no "confidentiality agreements" before this book. and maybe would still not be if not for one thing: it's probably kind of embarrassing.

hey if you actively choose to present yourself to the world in a certain way, you had best live up to your hype. otherwise, you WILL be embarrassed. some how some way some time

and if the idea of an employee "profiting" from his/her experience is disturbing, DON'T MAKE THE EXPERIENCE SO SCANDALOUS.

imagine if my diary read: "dear diary, went to work today. it was great. i clocked in. i did my job. i clocked out. i got paid. the end."

i ask you, who would give a rat's ass

might i just add one more thing:

no one has ever called me the lauren-weisberger of the restaurant industry. my book is no DEVIL WEARS CHEF'S WHITES or anything even remotely crazy like that. frankly, i take a little umbrage at that word "traitorous" in that NY Post thingie up there. but whatever.

please by all means take a look and feel free to judge for yourselves

thank you so much for your time and interest

[madziast]

Joanne212 - thanks for reminding me that shamelessrestaurants.com is back up - they were closed down by some pending lawsuits late summer.  and thanks for mentioning PX, had no clue it was out, judging by the blog, it should be quite entertaining (certainly not "objective")...although i thought that the whole genre of ppl ratting on their bosses/biz was over... (after the nannies, devil wears prada/vogue, etc.) guess not in the restaurant biz, to which we all have more access than the offices of vogue or nannyland

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no it's not "objective" at all. i ain't no barbara-walters-- this is a DIARY peoples sheesh.

I DID NOT RAT ON ANY BOSSES. i took plenty OUT just to be NICE believe that

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abbe, didn't realize it was a diary. getting the book and looking forward to reading about your experiences. and see what exactly JG's panties are in a twist about...