Odds and ends

[Florida Jim]

Just a few brief notes on wines tasted recently:

2002 B. Giacosa, Arneis:

This producer makes it very easier to buy his lower priced wines; they seem to have all the quality of the high-end stuff at a fraction of the cost. This was bright, spicy, vinous, slightly tart, fruit forward and was the perfect aperitif.

1998 Mittnach-Klack, Riesling Schoenberg VV:

After several years of showing sweeter than I thought it should, now its more balanced and showing more structure. Still a bit of RS but not so much as to obscure the flavors. Pretty good, at this stage.

1998 Veneti, Amarone:

Absolutely nothing wrong with this wine; just nothing to make it memorable or interesting. And Amarone should be interesting.

1988 Jadot, Clos-du-Vougeot:

Slightly oxidized but this had a core of meaty, slightly sauvage fruit with hints of game and plum concentrate; nicely balanced and complex. Not at full song but clearly a grand cru wine opened before the fat lady’s ditty.

2001 von Kesselstatt, Riesling Kabinett, Scharzhofberger:

For those who have not tried the combination, this wine (or one similar) with roasted beets and ricotta salada is just heaven. A crisp, almost spritzy wine with enough RS to compliment the beets and sufficient cut to contrast with the cheese. Fresh, clean and yummy.

NV Alianca, Vinho Verde:

Light smells of fresh herbs, laundry detergent and lime juice; light and crisp in the mouth with a savory custard flavor (but not texture) and lime juice flavors, clean, airy (just the faintest hint of spritz), refreshing, 9% alcohol and perfectly enjoyable. I’m going to drink a lot of this at $7.

1999 Conterno, Barbera d’Alba:

Diane loves it, I find it sour. Odd; I sense this is good wine, I can taste the quality but the flavors just don’t do it for me. After also trying Giacosa’s barbera recently, I’m pretty well convinced that I can do without this variety. Thanks John.

1999 Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny:

Young, primary, fruit forward and obviously packed with what will, one day, make it a joy to have with dinner. Drink now only if you don’t want to know such charms.

And then two wines that were show stoppers:

1998 Hirsch, Riesling Gaisberg Alte Reben:

Still shows very young but the combination of density, concentration and structure is so perfectly balanced that this wine seems as deft as it does powerful. That wonderful paradox that raises wine into the top tier; finesse with strength, is vividly present. Grand vin with a long, lovely future. Delicious.

1992 Allemand, Cornas Reynard:

Round in the mouth yet stunning complexity; enough maturity to run the Cornas gamut with meat, blood, underbrush, herb, succulent red and black fruit, pepper and so much more, all of it held in focus by an almost hidden structure. Dream sequence wine, finesse and endless depth. And just so damn good with a mixed grill of sausages that I’ll never forget that dinner.

Best, Jim

Edited July 30, 2004 by Florida Jim (log)