Tallin - Moscow - St Petersburg - Helsinki

[YKL]

friend and I are going on holiday in September around eastern Europe - will be two weeks in total - and have a few days in each of the above mentioned cities and wondered if any egulleteers have recommendations to visit or even avoid!

I do have a couple of guidebooks, and we are going with a group of people so I doubt that I will starve, but any hidden gems or local favourites would be interesting to hear of. My friend is vegetarian but I suspect that she is not expecting to have a huge choice so anything along that line would be a tremendous surprise for her.

As for me - apart from really scary offal, am up for most things. Would be interesting to see the range of restaurant experience as well - from most basic to the most luxurious (assuming my roubles stretch that far!)

So .. fingers crossed for any recommendations!

Thanks

Yin

X

[Gypsy Boy]

Hope I'm not too late with this response but here goes.

I haven’t been for a couple years, but these were among the highlights of my visits to Moscow and Peter. If still there (and so far as I know they are), I’d recommend all of them.

Moscow first:

Dyadya Vanya (Uncle Vanya) was one of the highlights of my time in Moscow. I couldn't have been more pleased with this cozy place. It feels very much like an old-time neighborhood restaurant. There is a warm, inviting bar in the front and a smallish room in back with about ten tables. All is wood and the staff is friendly. They even have menus in English. I loved the food, it wasn't expensive, and it was clearly popular with locals. (Dinner with an appetizer, soup, entree, and beer was about USD$15 in November 2001.) No reservations seemed necessary and the best advice I can give you is simple: don't miss it!

ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 17. Tel. 232-1448

You want fancy? You want expensive? You want a wonderful, 'Old Russia' experience? There may be others but I had a terrific time at 1 Red Square. Located at that address, you enter the restaurant by entering the State History Museum. You tell the guards you're going to the restaurant so you don't have to pay for the museum, but you go through the electronic monitor and turn left.

Then be prepared! It's down the stairs and into the last century. Fancy, fancy. Fine linen, crystal, silver....and exquisite food with service (and prices) to match. That said, you can get what I believe is true Russian food here. And I can't think of nicer surroundings to enjoy it in. My guess is that it is popular with tourists, though, so be careful. (I went in November and there weren't many other tourists in Moscow, period.)

1 Red Square (of course). Tel. 925-3600. Reservations would seem wise, if not downright essential. And they do accept major credit cards.

Kitezh is a friendly neighborhood kind of place, though it is not small. I had an excellent meal there starting with borsch and some real pirozhok. Then, this being Russia, I HAD to have it sooner or later, right? So I broke down and ordered Beef Stroganoff (with a Baltika beer). According to its little propaganda sheet (advertisement), the restaurant features 'XVII century stylized interiors, wooden furniture, waiters and waitresses wearing loose Russian linen and quiet music.' This is all accurate; in fact, the music was so terrific (solo guitar) that I lingered over dessert just to listen, relax and enjoy the surroundings.

ul. Petrovka, 23/10 (Walk through the iron gates and around to the back)

Tel. 209-6685 or 209-7108 (noon to midnight).

Peter:

Zolotaya Rybka is a small restaurant that serves wonderful things. The name means something like Little Golden Fish and though it's not large, the food was great: fresh, healthy portions, and reasonably priced. The decor's got a lot of glass and chrome and, for those of you who want something besides fish, relax: you can probably get it here.

Nevsky Prospekt 166 (way out on Nevsky, toward the Nevsky lavra end of the street)

277-2484

Café Idiot serves vegetarian food in a wonderfully warm, cozy place. A few steps down from the sidewalk, this is several rooms with low vaulted ceilings, well-worn comfy furniture, and loads of odds and ends (from board games to reading material) to keep you occupied. I wasn't thrilled with my meal, but think I made the wrong choice. (Stuffed cabbage, at least in my book, is better when it's stuffed with meat, not more veggies.) Still, I'd return in a moment. Very mellow, very cozy. They even have jazz on weekends (says my guidebook--they were merely playing it on tape when I visited).

nab. Moika 82. 315 1675 (Noon to 11 p.m.)

Laima. Not to rave or anything, but how often do you get to visit a fast-food joint that serves their meals on china and with silverware? Then try Laima. If not for the china then for the best fast-food food I've ever eaten. They have about three dozen Russian meals listed on the chalkboard, almost all of which are under $4 USD. Not only is it served fast and hot, but it is terrific food. And the choices are not exactly typical fast-food: borsch, stuffed peppers, kebabs.... I'm willing to bet you'll never find a better fast-food place anywhere in the world. (And if you do, I want to know about it!)

nab. Griboedova, 30/16. (a few doors in from Nevsky Prospekt) Open all day (and night).

Tel. 315-5545

Graf Suvorov was the best restaurant I visited in Russia. Be prepared to spend money (lunch was over $40 USD in November 2001) but get your tastebuds ready for exquisite food and top-notch service. There are two (I think) small rooms, beautifully decorated, just below street level. I cannot speak highly enough of this restaurant and the spectacular meal I had there (read my travelogue for details). If this is what you're looking for, straighten your tie, shine your shoes, and get ready for a fabulous meal!

ul. Lomonosova 6 (a few steps down from the sidewalk)

315-4328

Good luck--have a great visit--and don't forget to report back!

[Ted Task]

Just back from a VERY short two days in St. Petersburg, only one restaurant experience to report, and that was acceptable.

Almost opposite the Admiralty, we had a very good lunch at ...The Actor (sp.AKTEP) on Bo3thecehckhh HP between Maltar and Almhpa.ttebckhh.hp.

Oh, boy am I sorry, but no Cyrilic letters on my keyboard.

Ted Task

[YKL]

well I'm back, and it was a fantastic holiday but there was so much sightseeing packed into the schedule that food could not always be a priority - which is a new perspective on a holiday for me! Despite being away for a fortnight, breakfast was usually the biggest meal and lunch was invariably on the hoof! Still, there was some nice (but not gourmet) places I went to:

Tallinn - went to a restaurant called Hansa, just off the main square - known for its soups, salads and meat grills. Certainly my mushroom soup was creamy and delicious, and they were very generous with the smoked fish salad that I had it with. Others had different types of steak or chicken, and all pronounced fine / good. Some of them also washed it down with a honey beer which seemed interesting. Seemed very cheap as well, reckon I paid about £6-7 .. so maybe about $10-$12. Was thinking of visiting the Peppersack opposite on my return but didn't have time to fit that in - but have some positive feedback about that.

nothing to report in Moscow since we went for an organised Georgian restaurant in the Arbat district. Was fine - but not so special I'd recommend it (and I have no idea where it is!!)

St Petersburg - well on a couple of nights we went to a branch of Patio (but you need to allow for the Cyrillic spelling) which is an Italian chain because it was round the corner from the hotel. Was quite good actually - not in a knock your socks off way but pizza was fine, pasta was good and mushroom risotto was actually very good. There's a branch on Nevsky Prospect too.

We did also go to the Grand Hotel Europa - originally just for a coffee but somehow I ended up spending most on my roubles on afternoon tea there! still pretty cheap at $12 for tea with sandwiches, cake and scones. Have had better, but for the experience and setting it's fine.

Savonlinna, Finland - can't remember the name of the restaurant but it's right on the waterfront and think it's called the Lighthouse (albeit in Finnish of course!). My elk steak on the first night was delicious - sweet tasting meat and a good dark sauce. the blueberry pie was also very good. We actually went back the second night and my marinated salmon was fine but not as good as the elk. some other girls came back with rave reviews of the food at the micorbrewery - so next time!

Helsinki - um, ate at the hotel for ease since we were due up at the crack of dawn the next day!

So - thanks to all for their help. I would like to go back, and hopefully I would be better prepared as an independent traveller than following the timetable of an organised tour

thanks

Yin