The Roussillon: surprisingly empty

[endless autumn]

My parents have a house in the Pyrenees about 80km from Perpignan. We have been visiting restaurants, markets, butchers, boulangeries, vineyards etc. in the Pyrenees Orientales for about ten years.

However, the Roussillon seems to come a poor second to Catalunya (of which it is notionally a part) when it comes to food; there are plenty of good local products - Ceret cherries, Collioure anchovies, Pyrenean lamb, Rose des Pyrenees Veal, superb ceps, girolles, pieds de mouton and so on - but the cooking is not of a particularly high standard.

There are a couple of starred places in Collioure, St Cyprien, the Auberge du Vieux Puits up near Narbonne, but these aren't necessarily my preference. The area is not a rich one (one of the poorest regions of France meets one of the richest in Spain at the border) but economics cannot explain a general low standard of cooking.

Is the region as barren as I have found it, or am I missing something?

[grahamtigg]

I am more familier with neighbouring Languedoc but by and large I would agree - reasonable places to eat are few are far between at all levels. A turbulant history and general poverty has much to do with it, Montpellier for example has catalysed some impovement in the Herault area over the past 10 years.

What I do like about the area is the diversity of cusine and ingredients - you basically get mountain, sea, planes with Provence and Catalan influences.

Graham

[menton1]

A wonderful 2- star in an unbelievable setting is the 1000-year old Chateau de Riell, in the hamlet of Molitg-les-Bains. This is just 15km from Prades, the home of Pablo Casals.

The restaurant is superb, and if you have the inclination, a stay here will enthrall you with their wonderfully unique all-copper bath fuxtures. The rooms have names, instead of numbers. It's a Relais & Chateau as well. A dreamy setting in the foothills of the Pyrenees.

Chateau de Riell Web Site

[Bux]

The Chateau de Riell lost its stars and apparently some time ago. It has no stars in this year's guide and didn't have any in 2002 or 2000. For some reason, I have only even year guides on hand. Actually, I checked online for this year's rating.

[robert brown]

It's the Languedoc, but does anyone have a line on La Tamarissiere in Agde? We're spending the night and having dinner on 8/9 on our way to Spain. I'll write something after.

[menton1]

The Chateau de Riell lost its stars and apparently some time ago. It has no stars in this year's guide and didn't have any in 2002 or 2000. For some reason, I have only even year guides on hand. Actually, I checked online for this year's rating.

Well, we were there some time ago, but I'm sure it is mostly Michelin politics. (Which we have discussed in great detail!) I'll bet you can still get a superlative meal there.

For about 8 years after our stay, we got a gorgeous hand-drawn Christmas card from the owner, Biche Barthelemy. She is a lovely person, and the hotel itself along with the setting makes this a once-in-a lifetime experience. I want to go back, but our vacation agendas have just been too full lately to allow a trip "off the beaten path".

I highly recommend the Chateau de Riell!

[kerriar]

Would be interested also in comments on La Tamarissiere in Agde. We've just spent a holiday nearby in Marseillan (not to be confused with Marseillan Plage) which is still a sleepy little port village with few pleasant restaurants and some easy sailing on the Etang de Thau. In the past Chez Phillippe was the best restaurant in the area - I think they had a single Michelen star at one time - but has since changed hands. It's still ok but lacks much of the distinctive zing and absolute professionalism that made you look forward to holidays. Marseillan has a few other acceptable places to eat around the port - we found we kept going back to Cote Sud for well prepared fresh fish and intelligently chosen local wines. (Domaine Bourdic from nearby in Pezanas is an exceptional rosé and worth paying a bit extra for.) As mentioned already, this part of France is not over endowed with serious restaurants so any recommendations will be followed with interest.

[robert brown]

Kerriar, we booked a room and table there for next Monday as a stopover en route to the Spanish Pyrenees. It sounded pleasantly old-timey. I'll post a few words at a time that is based on the computer atmosphere of where I am going.

[Bux]

There used to be a one star restaurent in Florensac that had some very good food. It's been gone for a while and Chez Philippe was about the best meal we had in a restaurant the last time were were in the area. I gathered there weren't many other choices even at that level close by. I too have heard it's a bit less inviting now. I don't think it ever actually had a star, although from time to time a starred restaurant pops up here and there. I don't sense the area is improving much and the starred restaurants don't seem to be in much demand. We'll probably visit friends in the area for a few days next month and eating out will not be one of the draws.

[robert brown]

Kerriar, even though we didn't check into the camp grounds behind La Tamarissiere, we left the hotel-restaurant as very unhappy campers. Beyond the quiet and powerful Mitsubishi air conditioner in our room, this establishment typifies the "leave the paying guest hung out to dry" attitude that is everywhere in France. Our dinner typified that of a burned-out, couldn't care less chef who lost his sense of pride (if he ever had one) probably years ago. My oysters were served room temperature, which I brought to the attention of the waiter (but after I ate most of them since my wife doesn't always like me to cause a scene). He was surprised, but as has happened to me before in France, he avoided us for the rest of the meal. The bread had spent the afternoon in the refrigerator and the ice cream had been refrozen. The main courses were banal; my bourride (a specialty of the house) was rubbery and heavy-handed, far from the elegant one I once had at Bacon on Cap d'Antibes. We couldn't wait to leave. By contrast we are at a Relais-Chateaux in Spain that is a miracle of service and hospitality. I'll write about it in the Spain & Portugal forum. Oh yes, the charm that the village of La Tamarissiere clearly had at one time has been fairly demolished by tacky, commercial over-development. It's unfortunate since its position alongside a canal that ends at the sea is captivating.