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[MSP] Pho 79


col klink

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During my recent visits down to the Twin Cities for job interviews, I’ve been very lucky to find Pho 79. Pho is a Vietnamese beef (or chicken or seafood, but mostly beef) noodle soup that is comfort food for me. I first began to truly cherish pho in Seattle when I realized it was the best meal for a hangover (your mileage may vary). It provides much needed re-hydration and necessary electrolytes to get you on your way. With an iced coffee (café su da) and provided you can stomach the tripe and soft-tendon, you’re ready for a new day and bouncing off the walls.

For my birthday my wife and I celebrated by getting pho at a Vietnamese place in Duluth. Now she did some advance scouting so I knew that you wouldn’t be getting fresh basil, sprouts, jalapeño slices or lime and I acted accordingly by bringing what I could, jalapeños and lime (I don’t normally go for the sprouts and Thai basil is impossible to find in Duluth). But of course it was a horrible downer – I almost cried. I'm dead positive they just opened a packet of ramen in the back of the kitchen.

Luckily, Pho 79 has given me hope that damn good pho can be found in the Midwest outside of Chicago.

Don’t let the tripe and soft-tendon scare you away from a bowl of pho. The basic bowl (what Mrs. Klink always orders) is just eye of round or a similar tender cut of beef that is added raw to the bowl where it is left to cook. If you’re smart though, ask for the beef on the side so you can control how it gets cooked.

A good pho joint will have many, many verities on the menu and Pho 79 doesn’t shy away. Mostly they are different combinations of the ingredients included in the “Special Bowl” which happen to be eye of round, fatty brisket (yeah!), well done flank, meatballs (hit or miss), tripe and soft tendon. The latter two can be somewhat of a challenge for the un-initiated but at some point you should definitely try the scary stuff.

I’ve been to Pho 79 several times now and I’ve been impressed with their stock. It’s beefy with just enough spicing (star anise) to let you know it’s there but not overpowering. And the price is hard to beat, most bowls go for $5.45 with the Special going for $5.95 (though I’m used to paying only $4.50 for the same size bowl in Seattle and getting a cream puff).

Upon further visits I’ve tried ordering something else so I can say I’ve at least “sampled” the menu but that never happens – as soon as the waitress comes all I hear out of my mouth is “special with the raw beef on the side.”

And for those of you trying Pho 79 soon, directly across the street at the meat market there's a most adorable kitten. My wife picked it up and walked all around the store with it chewing on her sweater. I can't tell you how lucky I am when she realized that we don't need another cat!

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I haven't tried Pho 79. Where was it located? There's one over in St. Paul; maybe they have several restaurants?

Your next mission, should you choose to accept it, would be to compare the pho at Pho Tau Bay and Quang's. I'd be curious to hear what you have to say after you've sampled at all of them.

And, I always intend to try a different kind of pho, but the same words come out of my mouth, too. I really like tripe.

And, I could have told you, without having tried it, to avoid pho in Duluth. When we get up to Duluth to visit a good friend, and we want a great meal, we cook in his spectacular kitchen.

Susan Fahning aka "snowangel"
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D'oh! I forgot to list the address

Pho 79

2529 Nicollet Ave.

Minneapolis, MN 55404

612-871-3226

I can't wait to try Pho Tau Bay and Quang's. I'll have myself a pho-down! What are their addresses?

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Pho Tau Bay is at 2837 Nicollet (on the east side of Nicollet past where they want you to turn to get around that shopping complex on Lake that prevents Nicollet from going through) and Quang is at 2719 Nicollet. All in that same area. Just head a bit south from Pho 79. I would swear that there is also a Pho 79 on the corner of Raymond and Energy Park Drive (just east of 280) in St. Paul. Assume (perhaps mistakenly) that they are owned by the same people.

Do your pho-down quickly and report, please!

Susan Fahning aka "snowangel"
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My personal pho rankings would go:

1st Saigon

Close 2nd Pho Tau Bay

Close 3rd Pho 79 (I go to the one in St. Paul on Energy Park Drive)

4th Quang

They are all really good, but I guess I like the broth at Saigon a little better. To me, it seems beefier and more star anisey. In truth, I've only been to Pho Tau Bay once (in large part due to snowangels recommendations:smile: ) and I really did like it, but I was weaned on Saigon. Plus Saigon is right in the neighborhood and Pho Tau Bay, Quang, and the Nicollet Pho 79 are more of an excursion for me.

If you do go to Saigon, the Bahn Mi cannot be skipped. I'll accept dissention on my soup rankings, but the sammiches are untouchable.

...
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John, where's Saigon and do they make their banh mi to order or not? Likewise do they have different sandwiches?

edit:

From the Pho 79 thread:

Saigon Restaurant is just off the corner of Dale & University in St Paul.  They have nearly 20 different Vietnamese sandwiches, all made to order.  They'll be waiting for you if you phone ahead, 651-225-8751.  Recommended.

EDITed to add:  My favorite sandwich is the barbecued pork.  Now you've got something to order the first time you call.

Edited by col klink (log)
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I hit Pho Tau Bay today and although I enjoyed the banh mi (especially the specially ordered shredded pork, damn, that was good), the pho wasn't as good as Pho 79. The broth wasn't as beefy or spicy and seemed to be saltier. It wasn't a bad broth, but it wasn't as good as Pho 79's. Not only that, Pho 79 bowls cost as much as the small bowls but are as big as the regular bowls which go for $1.50 more.

As far as pho goes, Pho 79 wins hands down. But for banh mi, Pho Tau Bay takes the proverbial cake.

Oh yeah, I think my bowl of pho today caused me some lower gi problems. :huh:

As for the rest of the menus from both places, I'll have to wait for my wife to come to try them because try as I might, all I can think of ordering is the pho. :rolleyes:

edit: The first time I went to Pho 79 I thought the broth was good but a tad over-spiced. I now realize after having probably 5 bowls that it isn't usually that spiced so I shouldn't be so hard on Pho Tau Bay. Luckily since I'm moving to that immediate area I'll have plenty of points on the graph to plot. :smile:

Edited by col klink (log)
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I also prefer Saigon slightly over Pho Tau Bay and Quang. If you're going to go to St. Paul for Saigon though, you really need to go to Cheng Heng (also on University, 2 blocks east of Dale). It's Cambodian, so the pho is slightly different (but also excellent), but the real reason for me to go there is the best spring rolls I have ever had and the plear (lime marinated beef) salad.

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I also prefer Saigon slightly over Pho Tau Bay and Quang. If you're going to go to St. Paul for Saigon though, you really need to go to Cheng Heng (also on University, 2 blocks east of Dale). It's Cambodian, so the pho is slightly different (but also excellent), but the real reason for me to go there is the best spring rolls I have ever had and the plear (lime marinated beef) salad.

Cheng Heng rocks. Second the motion for plear salad.

--- Lee

Seattle

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