Compass

[KMPickard]

A while back, on the Fat Guy site, there was a positive review of "Marika" on the Upper West Side. I recall that Steven Shaw had very good things to say about the chef Neil Annis. Has anyone eaten there since the transformation into Compass? We'll be making a trip to NY at the end of July and I'm wondering if it should go on our "to try" list - along with GT, Picholine and now, after today's thread, Blue Hill.

Thanks for the input,

Kathy  

[jordyn]

I haven't been there since the restaurant was reincarnted as Compass, but I ate there several times during its Marika phase.  

The food is quite nice, and actually quite interesting when compared to the other options in the neighborhood, but I can't imagine including it in a food itinerary of New York if you're visiting from out of town.  Compared to other options on the Upper West Side, the food is distinguished, but compared to other options in New York City, it's really nothing special.

[jordyn]

Perhaps inspired by KMPickard's question, I ate dinner at Compass on Saturday night.  We just walked in at about 9:00 and had no problem getting a table; I've noticed that Compass seems to have generally good availability on OpenTable.  Good for the customer; probably not so great for the restaurant.  The room was hardly deserted, though, with roughly 70% of the tables full.

The decor is modern and bright.  Bright red, mostly, with red banquettes at some of the tables and a huge, red, abstract painting along the back wall.

Service was fine, although not seamless.  When heading to the table, I happened to be in front of the other two in my party, both women.  Our host clumsily had me stand aside while pulling the table out and inviting the ladies to sit down.  At a stuffy old school French restaurant, I might not be surprised for the "correct" order of seating to supercede the practicality of trying to get everyone to the table gracefully, but this restaurant looks like it is trying hard to be hip and young.  Later, with no sommelier around, I asked our server if he could speak to the differences between the three types of Christom Pinot Noir on the wine list, he spent several minutes telling me about the geography of the Willamette Valley and about pinot noir in general before admitting he didn't know anything specific about any of the three.

The food was encouraging, if not inspiring.  My appetizer was gazpacho with pekytoe crab, which I found to be quite fine, with chunks of fruit submurged within a pool of pale tomato essence.  I also tasted the white asparagus with snails and pea sprouts, which did a good job of highlighting the essential flavors of its component ingredients.

Perhaps it was simply my mood at the time, but many of the most appealing-sounding main dishes appeared on the $30 prix fixe menu.  (This menu was not available to us as it was after 6:30 PM on Saturday, the only time of the week when the prix fixe is not an option, but it turned out we could order the dishes a la carte as well.)  Hanger steak in a red wine sauce was straightforward and a good piece of meat.  Soft shell crabs tempura with corn chowder and basil coulis seemed somewhat over-complicated, and the constituent ingredients were not really pulled together on the plate, but each component was in fact quite nice.  I ate the pork loin with vidalia onion, which seemed too sweet to me, and I have a palate that generally favors sweet food.  A whole vidalia onion was served next to the meat, though, and it was excellent:  slightly crisp, and bursting with juice and flavor as I bit into it.

We were in a bit of a rush, but had to run out without ordering dessert.  This was disappointing, because the desserts had an unusual bent, but sounded quite good.  Lemongrass panna cotta is the one that everyone seems to pick up on, but it was actually relatively tame in an eclectic cast of after-dinner treats featuring basil cakes, pop rocks and tamarind sauce.

Overall, I continue to be very happy that Compass is in the neighborhood, because it's one of the few restaurants on the Upper West Side that seems to be attempting to provide a quality dining experience.  There's little about Compass other than geography to recommend it over many of the good restaurants in Manhattan, but there's nothing that would keep me from returning again, either.

[Damian]

Just returned from a meal at Compass and am pleased to say that Neil Annis is still doing wonderful things at this beautiful UWS space despite the name change. We walked in off the street at 8:30 on Friday to a half-full restaurant and were immediately greeted and seated.

Extraordinary menu

We ordered from the tasting menu, an incredible value at $30 for three courses (not available after 6:30 on Saturdays)

Would get right to the menu, but the bread basket came with these scallion biscuits that were so buttery-good, I could have eaten those and nothing else and been happy.

Tasting menu as follows:

Starters - Chilled corn soup with grilled shrimp; Chopped salad with Maytag blue cheese and sherry grapeseed vinaigrette; or saffron risotto fritters with spicy red pepper coulis.

Mains - Parmesan herb-crusted cod, wilted spinach, tomato coriander sauce; Organic Hudson Valley calf's liver with kohlrabi, apple, and spring onion; or Pan roasted hanger steak with paprika potatoes, red wine sauce.

Dessert - Basil cake with mint sorbet, mango hing mache salad; or Lemongrass panna cotta, tarragon pineapple grape salad.

It was hard to choose the tasting menu over the many intriguing offerings on the a la carte side, but the value proved to be too good to pass up.

Amuse of generous two-bite portion of poached lobster atop a chilled soup of tomato and gooseberry with halved gooseberries. Light, refreshing, succulent, an excellent apetite inducer.

I had the chopped salad which was very flavorful mixing sweet and savory flavors (apples, radishes, hearts of palm, many more items). The mixing of sweet and savory was the very definite theme of this menu, and a raging success. Partner had the fritters, sweet rice dumplings with tart coulis - this was less successful at first as the fritters were underseasoned and somewhat bland, salt and pepper woke things right up however, and completely turned my opinion completely around.

For mains, we were both in the mood for steak and so shamefully ordered the same dish, it was hard to pass up the other options, both of which sounded terrific. Hanger steak was intensely flavored, a somewhat small portion. The potatoes were sweet, not spicy as advertised, and I swear had some sweet plaintain or some such mixed in. I love hanger steak, and this one tasted as good as the Artisanal version I had not too long ago.

Dessert was a real star, both were so surprising and so so good. The basil cake served with a salad of tender herbs was simultaneously sweet and savory and the mint sorbet bit the right note. The panna cotta with tarragon continued the theme and was an equally fascinating mix of flavors. I was worried that these were combinations for the sake of novelty, but both desserts were so delicious that I was won over.

After dessert and coffee, the chef sent out warm shots of chocolate spiked with anisette and handmade marshmallows on a plate to accompany. Upon paying the check, we were presented with a sack containing scones for tomorrow's breakfast - and I am looking forward to those as I write this.

Service was exceptional - not for its polish but for what Steve Shaw characterizes as being on the diner's side. They really were concerned with us having a fabulous time. A couple of minor technical glitches (somewhat slow food, wrong cutlery brought and then removed, etc.) simply vanished in the glow of the helpfulness and attitude of everyone from bussers to maitre d' to floor manager to food runners to our excellent waiter.

My overall impression is that Compass is really trying hard to please. They have a simply beautiful modern room (reminded me a bit of Radius in Boston), a really cool lounge area, and spaces for private parties including a truly stunning table in the wine cellar. The food alone is worth going for - I'd rate it similar in style and in the same league as Blue Hill. I can't understand why this place is not selling out a Friday night and has been so slow to catch on now that the initial chef exchange is long in the past. The tasting menu is an unbelievable value.

When I asked for a copy of the menu upon leaving, the manager simply handed me one. I offered to simply take the paper inserts, but he gave me the permanent folder with his compliments. This place gets it, and is getting it right on all fronts.

I can post more from the menu which includes a grill section and an a la carte raw bar along with a very versatile selection of starters and mains if people are interested.

[Jinmyo]

I can post more from the menu which includes a grill section and an a la carte raw bar along with a very versatile selection of starters and mains if people are interested.

Yes, please.

A great post, Damian.

[rozrapp]

Damian, Thanks so much for a terrific post. After reading about Marika's soap opera-like start (thumbs down NY Times review = stepson out, new chef in), we decided to try it and really liked the food, the decor, the service -- everything. But before an opportunity presented itself for us to go again, it was gone. I read about its becoming Compass and was wondering how it is. (I don't remember there having been a full-fledged review of it in any publication.) From your report, it appears that the space is still handsome. But the best news is that Neil Annis is still there. As I said, we loved his food. Thought it was creative, stylishly presented and, most important, delicious. Your descriptions have my mouth watering. Again, thanks for reporting.

[Fat Guy]

Normally, if someone compares a restaurant anywhere to a restaurant in Boston, I steer clear. But since you compared it to one of the only Boston restaurants where I've ever had a good meal, I can still respect Compass.

Seriously, though, it's good to hear Neil is still on the ball. He's tremendously talented -- he has learned his lessons well from Delouvrier, yet he has a very identifiable and modern style of his own -- and my meals at Marika were superb.

[Bux]

We ordered from the tasting menu, an incredible value at $30 for three courses

Enjoyed the rport immensely and it piqued my interest in eating there, but I have to ask if they really called the three course prix fixe menu a "tasting menu?" Isn't the point of a tasting menu the same as what the French call a "menu degustation--a chance to sample many tastes?

What's the price range of the a la carte items? You're welcome to post items as well, but it's not particularly necessary. Your original post gave me enough of an idea that I'd find enough things worth trying.

[jordyn]

Bux: To the best of my knowledge, the menu is just called a "prix fixe" menu, not a tasting menu.

I wrote up a brief report on Compass a few weeks ago, which I won't try to reitierate here, but I'll add the following comments:

1) The biscuts are indeed divine.

2) The prix fixe menu is an excellent value, and I actually found the entrees on the prix fixe menu more appealing.

3) Like Damian, I found the service extremely eager, but sometimes not so helpful. For him, the friendliness apparently overcame the minor technical glitches, but I was slightly less overwhelmed.

Overall, a nice spot, particularly compared to the alternatives on the UWS.

[jordyn]

Compass was reviewed in the New York Times today and received two stars.

While I enjoyed myself at Marika, I noticed several elements that Asimov described in his meals that were not present in mine. Specifically, this entire paragraph:

"Dinner at Compass is full of engaging touches. Mr. Mehta begins the dessert course with a dish of candied fennel seeds, a pleasant mouth freshener, and he ends it with a tumbler of rich, anise-scented hot chocolate, served with house-made lemon marshmallows. Wines are poured properly in good glassware. A manager makes a point each meal of introducing himself to each table, as if he wants a personal relationship with each diner."

No manager ever introduced himself to my table. I saw no dish of candied fennel seeds or anise-scented hot chocolate.

Is this an example of newspaper critics being treated one way and the rest of us another way?

[Damian]

Candied fennel seeds may be an example of preferred treatment. The hot chocolate and marshmallows, however, were part of my meal (see above).

Manager did introduce himself to us, and I saw him fully engaged with other tables several times. I also had another discussion with the manager when he gave me the menus.

I'm going to read the review now, thanks Jordyn.

[INNOCENT]

We arrived at Compass on a Sunday evening around 8:45 a few weeks ago. The greeting was friendly and we were led to our reserved booth in a timely manner. The room is spacious and well appointed. There were about six active tables in our vicinity but most of the restaurant was empty. Our red booth was comfortable and private.

Maybe too private...

Basically, we were abandoned at our table for 10 minutes or so. No menu, water or drinks. Finally, a waiter noticed the "thought bubbles" over our heads--you know, the ones that say--WHY ARE WE HERE AND IS IT TOO LATE TO CHANGE OUR MINDS". and brought water, champagne and the menu. We were told that another waiter would be with us shortly. Some time passed before our original waiter noticed the lack of action at our table and offered to take care of us himself.

Our apps and mains were served in good time, although we had to do the dreaded "plate shuffle"--we're used to exchanging plates somewhat later in the meal to share tastes--not right off the bat. Pity they couldn't get it right--there were only two of us, although we eat like a crowd...And why were'nt we too surprised when one of the wines that was presented was not quite the wine we had ordered by the glass for apps and mains? Frankly by that point, we were just glad to have SOMETHING on the table.

When the table was cleared after the mains, we were told to "just relax for a while". No water, desert order or coffee were offered. The disappearing waiter had struck again. We spotted the harassed fellow rushing around trying to take care of the three or four tables on the tier above us. Apparently, he was the only show in town.

What really grated was all the active employees clearing the rest of the room for the next day. Surely all those energetic bodies (five or six) could have been better used serving the active tables? Grr...

Ten minutes or so later, our waiter showed up and asked if he could do anything else for us. Well, yes. How about desert and coffee. Oh...

The food was good if not exceptional. Those bisquits are heaven. But we could only conclude that Compass is in the throws of a death spiral. Surely no one with fine dining in mind would give this place more than one go?

Luckily, our equanimity was restored over the next few days with memorable meals at GT, Annisa and Union Sq. Cafe.

[Fat Guy]

Can you tell us more about what you ate?

[Damian]

My experience with service at Compass is that was unpolished and uneven but eager to please - I am willing to overlook a lot given the right attitude. It sounds like that attitude was not present at your meal and could not serve as the saving grace for the utter ineptitude you experienced. Was the champagne complimentary because the waiter noticed your displeasure or was it something you had ordered?

Do tell about the food if you have time.

[INNOCENT]

Our apps that memorable evening at Compass were the Corn Soup (my wife) and the Rissoto Fritters. The soup was fresh and delicate, subtle and nuanced. My Fritters were served with a red pepper coulis. The texture was a bit gummy but very flavourful.

For mains, I had the organic liver. This was a thick slab of liver served medium rare as ordered. Perfectly cooked and simply presented. Very tasty. The other main ordered was cod with a parmesan crust in a tomato based broth. Perhaps the broth was over sweet but the fish was perfectly satisfactory.

My Lemongrass Panecotta arrived with a lovely arrangement of cut grapes. I had three panecotti (?) that week, one as part of the tasting menu at GT and one at Anissa. This one stood up very well in that company. Subtly herbal in flavour with the light texture of a daydream. Memorable for its simplicity. My wife couldn't resist the Basil Cake. We both were basically bored with it. Underflavoured and unexciting texture. This was a suprising disappointment, given the hype.

A tasting of Carmelized fennel seeds was a welcome addition to freshen the palate. We also received a small glass of hot chocolate with Pastis (?). These were both complementary. The coffee was excellent. This was the least expensive dining experience of our week in NYC. Of course, in terms of overall value for the money...

Our enduring food memory is the scallion biscuits that came with the bread basket. Light, delicate melt in the mouth texture with wonderful subtle flavour and aroma. They were generous when we requested seconds on these, bringing three more which were gobbled up in a flash. We were sent home with a paper sac containing two cranberry scones. Again, light, delicate and wonderful with breakfast the next morning.

The four wines we had by the glass with our apps and mains were appropriate and satisfactory, aside from the mix up mentioned previously. And no, my champagne was not complementary, merely a tip of the hat to the power of positive thinking that, unfortunately, faded with the bubbles.

So-- my problem wasn't with the food but with the disconnect between front of house and back of house. When both sides of the fine dining equation are so out of wack, the mood can turn sour pretty quickly.

Actually, we ran into the same situation a few days earlier at DB Moderne. There, the front of house couldn't have been friendlier and more efficient, but the food!--what a disappointment all round. I'll try to find time later to go into that.

[Damian]

Thanks Innocent! I actually enjoyed the basil cake, I found it to be innovative and loved the mint sorbet that came with (If I recall right). You're right, those biscuits and scones were definite highlights. Too bad the service was such a letdown.

[Lreda]

Very well written INNOCENT, I look foward to at least having cocktails and perhaps Apps. How was the bar if I were to at least coodle my way through? Or were the barkeeps also sleepy?

[INNOCENT]

How was the bar if I were to at least coodle my way through? Or were the barkeeps also sleepy?

The bar was dead on a Sunday evening. Bring a book, or some bookends to keep you vertical.

[rozrapp]

We recently ate dinner at Compass. We first went there when it was Marika, just after all the publicity about the original chef being fired and Neil Annis taking over. Since we thought the food was quite good, we went again last summer. Same owner, same chef, but a new name: Compass. Again, a good meal, though I didn’t care much for the desserts. This time around, the ownership has changed but, happily, Chef Annis is still in the kitchen, and there is a new pastry chef.

We had evening ballet tickets at Lincoln Center, so we decided that we would go into the city earlier in the day to see the Chocolate Exhibit, then have dinner before the performance – “A Day on the UWS” kind of thing. On the drive in, my husband phoned Compass for a 5:30 reservation. No problem. (It was a Wednesday.) Interestingly, they told us that they had us in their computer, which happened to us with another restaurant recently, so I guess it’s quite the common thing now.

We arrived promptly at the appointed time. The reception area is of reasonable size, with a few seats where people can wait for others in their party to arrive or for their table to be ready. To the left of the reception area, there is a capacious bar area with tables. The main dining room is straight ahead.

We were greeted warmly by the hostess – actually, there were 3 young women at the reception stand – and escorted immediately to our table. The dining room is quite a large space with booths lining two sides, lots of tables a little too closely spaced, and “balcony” seating around two sides of the perimeter. The dominant color in the room is gray, with splashes of color from the bright red upholstery of the booths and several pieces of modern art – allover red – hanging on one of the walls. We had sat in a booth both previous times, and our request for a booth again was acceded to. They are quite cushy and impart the feeling of being in something of a cocoon, which makes them, I think, much the most comfortable tables in the room.

I went to the Ladies’ Room, and when I returned, the menus had been provided, the water glasses had been filled (as usual, my husband requested “Chateau Bloomberg”), and the breadbasket was on the table, along with a plate with plenty of butter. (Thankfully, none of that oil pour and dip business here.) I was disappointed that the luscious little biscuits that we had on our previous visit were absent. However, the rolls were crusty and tasty, and there were a couple of slices of bread – I think they were multi-grain -- that were really good.

My husband looked over the wine menu and was considering ordering something by the glass because he didn’t see any half bottles listed. (As you may know, I don’t drink.) However, our waiter came to his rescue and pointed him toward the halves. He selected what they both agreed was an excellent Tolosa Pinot Noir for $30.

The dinner menu is divided between the a la carte section and the 3-course prix-fixe for $30, a terrific value if you like what is being offered. Lots of items on the a la carte side appealed to us more, so we went that way.

We each ordered a first course and then shared them. The Carrot Soup with Lobster-Leek Raviolis, Crustacean Butter and Basil Oil had a depth of flavor which made every spoonful heavenly. The two large, raviolis were extraordinarily delicious -- a fine accompaniment. And the little sprinkling of shredded fresh basil was the perfect finishing touch to this fantastic dish. ($12 and worth every one of them!!) The other appetizer was the Nantucket Bay Scallops in Spicy Curry-Kaffir Lime Sauce. Three large scallops were perfectly seared, and sat atop something very finely shredded, but I can’t remember what it was. The curry sauce had just the right amount of spice, assertive enough without being overpowering. My husband liked this dish more than I did. But perhaps that's because he likes curry more than I do. But it was certainly a fine preparation. ($14)

For the main course, I went with the Yellowtail Snapper and Tapenade “En Barigoule.” ($27) Served in a large bowl, the snapper was pan seared so that it had developed an excellent crust, atop which the chef has spread a thin layer of the tapenade. The fish was moist, with great flavor without being “fishy,” and the tapenade did not come on too strong so as to overpower the fish. Under it were several large, perfectly cooked artichoke halves, a variety of small vegetables were scattered around, and everything was surrounded by a wonderful broth. My husband’s main course was Roast Guinea hen, Chanterelles, Crispy Bacon and Sauce Albufera. ($26) He liked everything about it. I tasted the hen and thought it was juicy and succulent.

In honor of our visit to the Chocolate Show, we both ordered chocolate desserts. (There had been no free samples, and we didn’t want to spoil our appetites by indulging at the museum’s café.)

I went with the Hot Chocolate Souffle with Vanilla Maple Ice Cream, Roasted Peanuts & Chocolate Sorbet. ($10) Yes, I know it’s ubiquitous, and I’ve had it many times before. But this was a state-of-the-art rendition. The not overly sweet “cake” was cooked to oozing perfection, and the little scoops of ice cream and sorbet were delicious. My husband selected the Compass Chocolate Parfait With Fudge Tuile & Raspberry Ice Cream. ($8) This was a small, frozen rectangle of chocolate, again, not unbearably sweet. And the raspberry ice cream was just the right taste counterpoint. As I mentioned, I didn’t care at all for the desserts at our previous dinners. But Pastry Chef Mark Aumont is now doing the honors and, as far as I’m concerned, he has made a tremendous improvement in this area. (Our waiter told us that that the previous pastry chef is now working at Aix. I guess if I decide to eat there, I won’t be having dessert.)

This was a wonderful meal from start to finish. I think Chef Annis has hit his stride as this was certainly the best of the meals we’ve had here. Every dish was beautifully plated and arrived at exactly the right temperature. (Those who followed the discussion on my experience at Blue Hill will appreciate why I am making this comment.)

The sub-head on this thread reads, “Poor Service,” and I had heard complaints about that from a few others as well. However, the fact that we had such a pleasant experience was due in no small part to our server, Steve, who was friendly, knowledgeable, and had a nice sense of humor, while retaining his professionalism. He stopped by regularly to pour some more wine and to make sure that all was going smoothly, while never once asking, “So, how is everything?” I never appreciate this ubiquitous interruption since, more often than not, it’s done at the very moment I have my mouth full of food or at a point when I am deep into conversation. Other staff members did their jobs as well. Water glasses were kept filled and more butter was brought promptly when we requested it. Thus, it would appear that the new owners have made an attempt to spiffy up the service, and I would say they have succeeded royally.

Another factor adding to the meal’s enjoyment was the excellent pacing. The first courses arrived quite soon after we had ordered. But there was a sufficient break before the main course arrived to allow for a little digestion and to make for a leisurely feel. The same occurred with the desserts. Since we told Steve during the meal that we were going to the ballet, he brought the check promptly – actually, without our having to ask for it. Along with it came the “goodie bag” which contained two scones. We received the same gift last year, and they were so outrageously delicious, we have continued to drool over them in our memories. We had them with our breakfast the following morning, and they were as scrumptious as we remembered them.

A word about the rest rooms. If a restaurant were judged strictly by these, Compass would get high marks. The Ladies’ Room has opaque glass doors on the stalls, huge, colorful glass bowl sinks, and a nicely furnished small lounge area. Very attractive. And my husband tells me that the Men’s Room is also nicely appointed and is equipped with television sets above the urinals.

Some restaurants get a lot of buzz and a highly publicized following, while others quietly become popular. Judging from the full dining room when we were there, I’d say that Compass is one of the latter -- and deserves to be. So, I would change the sub-head on this Compass thread to read: “Head in Its Direction.”

[NY News Team]

Neil Annis has left Compass, the well-regarded Upper West Side Restaurant. Mr. Annis did not leave a forwarding address. It’s also not clear why he left. To replace Mr. Annis, Compass hired Mark Andelbradt, chef de cuisine at Chicago’s Tru. Tru fans will be truly happy. – Joseph Bavuso

(Source: NY Times Dining Section, July 2, 2003)

Compass

208 W. 70th Street

NY, NY 10023

212-875-8600

[Fat Guy]

Annis is a terrific chef. I hope he finds a place with less baggage.

[rozrapp]

Annis is a terrific chef. I hope he finds a place with less baggage.

Oh, no! I agree wholeheartedly, FG, that he is one superb chef. I just wrote a rave review about our recent meal at Compass. (For those who missed it and might want to read it, though I guess it's "old new" now: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...ST&f=4&t=9287&)

I'm curious. What do you mean by "a place with less baggage"?

[Fat Guy]

I'm curious.  What do you mean by "a place with less baggage"?

I can't imagine Compass ever really escaped the disarray that was Marika.

Mama Marika Saves Restaurant By Chopping Her Stepson Chef, from the NY Observer

[neverfull]

I visited Compass twice within the first 3 months they opened last year and BOTH times the service was horrible. not just bad but laugh out loud blatantly HORRIBLE....

it's been awhile since then but here are just a few things that happened that i can still remember:

1. it took more than 10 mins to be greeted when we first sat down

2. it took 25-30 mins for our entree to arrive after our appetizers with no recognition or apology from the wait staff

3. when i ordered a bottle of wine (1 of the 4 sancerres on the menu), the waiter asked me what number it was on the wine list. if he didn't know the wine list by memory, he should have at least tried to remember what i said and looked it up later.

4. the bottle of sancerre wine arrived at the table only slightly colder than room temperature

[Bux]

In today's Dining section of the NY Times, Florence Fabricant reports that Neil Annis has left Compass.