19. 鱼子 (yú zǐ), 飞鱼籽 (fēi yú zǐ), 蟹黄水 (xiè huáng shuǐ), 虾子 (xiā zǐ) , 鲕 (ér),
Flying Fish Roe
Although I mentioned it in passing, when looking at crabs, I deliberately left out any details of one important aspect, as it fits more comfortably with other issues and products. I am talking about the ladies’ roe, 鱼子 (yú zǐ).
Unlike in many Western countries where lumpfish roe tends to be the choice for cheap substitutes for the good stuff, here the choice is much more likely to be flying fish roe 飞鱼籽 (fēi yú zǐ). This took off about ten years ago, when there was a craze for Japanese cuisine, especially sushi, which often features flying fish roe (とびこ - tobiko in Japanese, or in the less honest places, the cheaper 雅子 – masako, which is actually smelt roe.) Naturally orange in hue, tobiko is often recoloured, using squid ink for black, beet for red, yuzu for yellow, or ‘wasabi’* for green.
I have, too, come across capelin roe, but only what I have found inside the raw fish. Even that is rare and capelin are not well known.
Undyed Capelin Roe
Somewhat more expensive and tastier is 蟹黄水 (xiè huáng shuǐ), crab roe. This red roe is particularly valued in China due to the fame of Yangcheng hairy crabs. Crab roe, too is often dyed other colours, especially black.
Black Dyed Crab Roe
Be careful if ordering it however, no matter the type of crab. The locals like to eat the ovaries, roe and digestive tract of the crab. This combination is known as 蟹黄 (xiè huáng), whereas the roe alone is 蟹黄水 (xiè huáng shuǐ). I don’t mean you shouldn’t eat it, but not unwillingly.
Real caviar 鲕 (ér), from sturgeon is not thought of as Chinese but, in fact, China is the world’s largest producer by far, with one company, Kaluga Queen accounting for 60 tons a year, one third of all the caviar produced worldwide. They claim that twenty-one of France’s twenty-seven restaurants holding three Michelin stars serve their caviar as do Per Se and the French Laundry in the USA, among others. It is also sold domestically. The sturgeon are raised in Qiandao Lake, 355 k / 220 miles south of Shanghai. More information here. I don't know how much caviar makes its way to Guangxi apart from the three x 10g tins in my fridge.
Kaluga Queen Caviar and Smoked Sturgeon
Here is a selection of local dishes using the various roes.
Scrambled Duck Eggs with Flying Fish Roe
Baked Egg with Goose Liver and Caviar
Shrimp with Orzo, Wakame and Crab Roe
Hake with Black Crab Roe
Avocado and Crab Roe
Whole roes from freshwater fish, probably carp, are available in one store I frequent. I've never bought one. So cheap they can't be great. Or am I missing something?
Other roes from non-native species such as cod, salmon and herring are available oline at import prices.