Galette des Rois

[Louisa Chu]

It's the morning of Epiphany Eve - the last of the end of the year feasts in France. We've survived Christmas and New Year's and tonight as most Parisians we'll be gathering once again but this time finish the evening with a Galette des Rois.

It's a Cake of Kings made of puff pastry, almond paste filling and a favour hidden within. Traditionally the favours were humble beans but they've evolved and now include various ceramic items from cartoon figurines to an elegant Lilliputian tea set at Laduree - only 12.50 for about 5 or 6 pieces. The one who finds the favour will be blessed with good luck in the new year - as well as wear a crown during the feast and bestow small gifts to other guests.

The Ephiphany was the day the three wise men first saw Christ and thus he was revealed to the world. It's the 12th day after Christmas - January 6th - and a fittingly quiet family closure to the excesses of New Year's Eve. Traditionally the cake is made today - the eve - and then eaten tomorrow at tea but most people will celebrate today as it's Sunday.

A few of the notable cakes I've seen around town have been at Pierre Herme - who has the classic one of course as well as a second with a bitter chocolate ganache and a third with coconut and morsels of roasted and caramelised pineapple. The classic is the only one available in an individual size - but that and all others are also available for 4, 8 and 12 persons. The individual's offered at only 4.30 - remarkable considering the artistry - plus with all sizes you receive a favour and a crown.

I was there Thursday and sampled all of the seasonal and a number of signature items and of the seasonal found the Satine my favourite with a surprising complexity from the lightly caramelised meringue/cream cheese down through refreshing passion fruit to a nicely resistant though whisper thin crust. But it's the much discussed Ispahan that captivated me completely.

And at Aoki they have again the naturelle as well as another made with the almond paste and matcha green tea and sweetened red bean - matcha is the powdered Japanese green tea ceremony tea. Both available in individual size, the former 3.50, latter 4.50 - and for 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10. Plus they're open tomorrow - normally closed on Monday.

I was just at Aoki yesterday, again did a pastry tasting, and would strongly counsel you to try the black sesame macarons as they have a very agreeable toothsomeness.

The Galettes des Rois may be available at some patisseries until Mardi Gras. After that, you'll have to wait until next year.

Best wishes to you all and your families.

[Bux]

Thank you for that little gift. It was a small gem of a post. It made Paris feel close by for a moment.

[magnolia]

Happy to say my galette - a rather workaday affair, from a very jolly patissiere at the Aligre market, compared with what was on offer at Aoki ! (thanks for introducing me, Loufood !) - nonetheless made it home in one piece.

With two people eating a galette made for four, it was tough going ! But in the end I got the 'santon' (if that's the right term) without breaking my teeth, and got to wear the crown. All nice Jewish girls deserve an Epiphany at least once in their lives !

[Louisa Chu]

Bux, my pleasure.

And magnolia, it's not a santon but a fève. And now of course you're to throw a Candlemas party!

[Bux]

Do they not sometimes use a miniature santon as the fève (bean)? I realize that whatever is used form a tiny baby Jesus to a image of Mickey Mouse, it replaces the fève and becomes the fève.

[Louisa Chu]

Do they not sometimes use a miniature santon as the fève (bean)? I realize that whatever is used form a tiny baby Jesus to a image of Mickey Mouse, it replaces the fève and becomes the fève.

Bux, you're precisely right.

And as if there aren't enough things to covet here in Paris. The fèves and crowns at Pierre Herme are designed by tse & tse and quite fabulous. Tonight I helped make about 50 galettes at school where we used very traditional figurines that looked like tiny little Louis XiV's etc. We had a whole assorted box of them and I just wanted them all for myself. And then there are those tiny teapots and teacups at Laduree. Too much!

[Louisa Chu]

Had my first one this past Sunday - from Jean-Paul Hevin - check out a photo on their site here. Chocolate puff pastry - glazed perfectly - very dark, rich, shiny, and appealing. Modern, minimalist decoration - the lines scored outside are traditional but reveal the signature of the house and patissiers - garnished with a bit of finely crushed chocolate nibs. Interior - classic almond filling but with chocolate morsels throughout and a bit of crushed pistachios. Deep cocoa aroma, surprisingly not very sweet at all - very good chocolate experience - might be even better warm. I found the feve! A little urn - part of their Atlantis treasure theme this year - set of 10 for only 29E. Crown - matte gold, good quality heavy cardstock, again fairly minimal but not too modern.

I've only seen two out of the three offered at Fauchon. The two classic puff pastry with two fillings - classic almond and an interesting sounding saffron-pear. There's a third in chocolate but I haven't seen it yet. Very cute feves - seven different puzzle-shapes that fit together to form a city-center map of Paris - with the Seine running through the middle - each with a single letter that spells out F-A-U-C-H-O-N. Set of seven currently available at 109 Euros - makes their galettes a bargain in comparison. Crown - cute but regal - with a big Fauchon "F" insignia.

Lenotre - three kinds - the classic; a very cool square caramelised pear filled - the shape a riff on their macarres/their square macarons; and a plain, dry, unfilled - I shudder to think. Available in boutique with a glass of Sydre - the amazing artisanal cider by Eric Bordelet, the ex-Arpege sommelier who went back to rework his family business in Normandy. The feves - really sweet, small oval plaques illustrated with their Lenotre girl in seven Lenotre scenes - with Lenotre shopping bags, attending to her Lenotre macaron wedding tower, etc. Feve sets not currently for sale - have to wait until all the galettes are filled - available at the end of January. Crown - abstract - stars shooting off the top.

Most excited to see and taste - and find the feve - in the galettes of Pierre Herme. His feves designed again this year by design house Tse & Tse.

[cheeseandchocolate]

My favorite of the traditional bunch can be found at Laduree (or at least, it was there in 2001 and 2002). It's a traditional puff pastry round, but they've mixed moist hunks of dried apricot into the almond filling. Mmmmm. I was also really pleased with the filling-to-crust ratio; Laduree's galette stands fairly tall, with plenty of filling. And I LOVED the tiny ceramic macarons they use as feves! Mine was pistachio green, with "Laduree" written in script across the top.

Now that I'm back in the States, I have to make my own galette des rois. But the recipe in Dorie Greenspan's "Paris Sweets" is fairly uncomplicated (assuming you, like me, buy Dufour's excellent puff pastry rather than making your own) and deeeeelish.

[chezcherie]

i want a set of macaron feves BAD!!! any idea how to procure?? tia!

[robert brown]

Loufood, someone down here in Nice gave us one from a place called La Peche Mignon. It was noting like any of the above. It had candied frit on it, maybe almond cake. We had a piece and then got rid of it.

This chef Jouni spent a season at el Bulli. I will try to ask him about it at lunch tomorrow. I hope you don't spend the whole time cleaning fish or chopping vegetables.

[Bux]

Had my first one this past Sunday - from Jean-Paul Hevin -

My first reaction was "from Hévin?" and then I read on and looked at his site. Bear in mind that I tend toward being a purist in terms of traditions I fear will be lost, but it sounds as if Hévin has his own classic or at least a pastry worthy of being a classic on his (chocolate) terms. Chocolate and almonds are a wonderful combination. I can't imagine the pistachios hurt either. It appears from his web page, that this is not a new recipe. Do you know how long they have been doing this?

Paris is such a pastry lover's feast. I still remember my first visit to Paris as a student. I was by no means all that interested in food, but it was just impossible not to pay attention to what one was eating there. A lot of my consumption occurred between meals and although Paris is not a city like NY where one walks around eating out of hand, I found myself stopping to look in patisserie windows all over Paris all day long. The sheer visual delight alone should have been enough to satisfy any architectural student, but I was seduced by the wanton pleasures of their flesh and soon found myself in the habit of buying a single pastry and eating it out of hand as soon as I turned the corner of the shop.

I'm glad you posted on the Epiphany, Twelfth Night, or (Three) Kings' Cake. I found a politically humorous reference in the Larousse Gastronomic recently and have been looking for the opportunity to post on it. I trust no one will read any more into this than my opinion that all politicians are to be mocked. In 1794 the French Revolutionary government (perhaps an oxymoron in itself as one can either govern or rebel against government) found royalist meaning in the feve as the finder was declared a "king." Thus they decreed an end to such attempts to undermine liberty. "Liberty cakes" were substituted for Twelfth Night or Three Kings' cakes by the very sharp witted patissiers. According to the Larousse, these were cakes offered as gifts to clients of the bakery and possibly not the same as the galletes des rois we know now, but there must be some relationship if only in connection with the bean (feve) which is more often a trinket or charm and was traditionally a baby Jesus earlier in the last century although now may be any sacred or profane piece.

[menton1]

When is the Fete du Roi? I went to a party in January a couple of years ago given by fellow francophiles, and you cut up the cake (galette) and whomever winds up with the "feve" is the Roi for the night!! (I won, and had to wear that silly crown for a couple of hours).

I've also heard that they used to use a pebble (!!) back over 100 years ago, but dental concerns have gotten them to now, thankfully, use a bean!!

[badthings]

A great article on these from PPC was reprinted in the Wilder Shores anthology.

[Bux]

When is the Fete du Roi? I went to a party in January a couple of years ago given by fellow francophiles, and you cut up the cake (galette) and whomever winds up with the "feve" is the Roi for the night!! (I won, and had to wear that silly crown for a couple of hours).

I've also heard that they used to use a pebble (!!) back over 100 years ago, but dental concerns have gotten them to now, thankfully, use a bean!!

Epiphany, or the twelfth night of Christmas, also know as Three Kings Day--January 6. As I mentioned before, in at least some parts of France the "prize" was a sacred icon or a baby Jesus. A small Micky Mouse being the least sacred image I've seen. This whole thing cakes and all were discussed briefly last year in a thread started by Louisa. I'll join the two threads for continuity.

[chezcherie]

at least some parts of France the "prize" was a sacred icon or a baby Jesus. A small Micky Mouse being the least sacred image I've seen

I was googling around in search of a macaron feve, and found a site that features (amongst humdreds of others--alas, no Laduree macarons) Kama Sutra feves--a whole set!

Laissez les bon temps roulez!

[Louisa Chu]

Bux, I don't know Jean-Paul Hevin but I'll ask. Do you know that they do pastries too? In addition to the macarons, they have a nice selection of pastries available every day at all locations - but there are a few pastries they only do on Saturdays - like a chocolate millefeuille.

c and c - Laduree - that's another house I can't wait to see. Last year they had those micro Laduree teapots as their feves. I did not see the macarons! I'll let you know if they've got the apricot again this year - that sounds so good. And yes, Dorie's Paris Sweets - amazing and beautiful book - demystifies French pastry - with such lyrical stories.

chezcherie, you macaron addict you! Try emailing them Laduree. I don't know what the feves are this year.

robert, you had the southern version - also available up here in Paris. It's typically a brioche base cake with candied fruit. And yes, please, I'd love some more insight into El Bulli - especially the logistics of working and living there. But see, the thing is, I like the vegetable cutting and the fish cleaning - I like all that stuff.

menton, it's Epiphany the first Sunday after New Year's Day. So Bux actually the date changes - this year it was this past Sunday the 4th.

[chezcherie]

chezcherie, you macaron addict you! Try emailing them Laduree. I don't know what the feves are this year.

c'est vrai, louisa! and thanks for the link---duh! i was trying laduree.COM--typical american! gorgeous site--the macaron photos made me want to weep---or lick the monitor! cheers!

[Bux]

Bux, I don't know Jean-Paul Hevin but I'll ask. Do you know that they do pastries too? In addition to the macarons, they have a nice selection of pastries available every day at all locations - but there are a few pastries they only do on Saturdays - like a chocolate millefeuille.

I knew they made pastries but only those with chocolate and I was only familiar with the one simple version of galette des rois. I didn't know or think of one with chocolate. I fully approve of chocolate. I am mostly familar with Hévin by reputation, but I had the most luscious chocolate macaron from them.

menton, it's Epiphany the first Sunday after New Year's Day. So Bux actually the date changes - this year it was this past Sunday the 4th.

I only know what I read about religion. I thought Three Kings Day, Epiphany and the Twelfth Day of Christmas were one and the same and celebrated on January 6. Epiphany - Three Kings

... for centuries church calendars in the East and  the West have agreed that there are twelve days of Christmas and they  begin on Christmas Day and end on January 6.

      The twelve days of Christmas end with the Feast of Epiphany also called "The Adoration of the Magi" or "The Manifestation of God." Celebrated on  January 6, it is known as the day of the Three Kings (or wise men/magi):  Caspar, Melchior and Balthasar.  According to an old legend based on a  Bible story, these three kings saw, on the night when Christ was born,  a bright star, followed it to Bethlehem and found there the Christchild  and presented it with gold, frankincense and myrrh.

      January 6, the last day of Christmas, comes with its own traditions

Even dictionary.com gives three references to January 6 or the 12th day of Christmas.

[robert brown]

Loufood, I think this may be better as a PM to you, but I like the idea of sharing it for what it's worth. I had a very good lunch at Jounie in Nice and left my convives hanging around for me because I wanted to talk to Jounie on your behalf. It turns out he did not work at el Bulli, but at the restaurant in Sevilla. Nonetheless, he told me something that I am sure you already know. If you are talented (and I have no doubt that you are) you will get to work at the various stations. If not, you'll be cutting vegetables and cleaning fish, etc. It would behoove you to learn some Catalan, as that is the language in the kitchen. But I imagine Castillian Spanish wouldn't hurt. Jouni did feel at a disadvantage, however, not speaking the language.`He also mentioned something about a lot of note-taking that goes on. Whatever, he said it was a great experience.

[Bux]

I assume by note taking, you mean the stagiaires are taking notes on what they're doing or what they're taught. Traditionally, French chefs have withheld secrets, even in their own kitchens. Some time ago, I quoted Carme Ruscalleda, chef at Sant Pau as saying in a magazine interview in Spain, that she thought the openness of the new Spanish chefs was helping spread the new Spanish cuisine all over the country and creating a movement that could not be ignored by the rest of the world. The relevance to this board, I guess, is that French cuisine today, is being influenced by Spanish cuisine as the previous generation of Spanish chefs had been influenced by the French.

I'm eager to learn more about the atmosphere in the El Bulli kitchen. I can only hope Louisa will have time and online access. As soon as Louisa learns Catalan, I fully expect her to explain eGullet's importance to Adria and that he will realize the need for her to report regularly to us.

[Louisa Chu]

Bux, Hevin does a lot of pastries - wide variety not much volume - more than chocolate too - chaussons aux pommes, etc. Galettes des rois variations - going over to chez Herme finally today - they have the classic, chocolate, and the caramelised pineapple again this year - cannot wait to see the feves! Epiphany - of course you're right - sorry, I should have been more clear - it's the real date, then the observed date - like George Washington's birthday, etc. - the Epiphany holiday's always observed here in France on the first Sunday after New Year's Day.

Robert, thanks very much - for taking your time - and that of your friends - to talk to the chef for me - and the very kind words. I was very, very - VERY - fortunate to work all the stations at ADPA - I started out leafing parsley and ended up fileting the saddles of lamb. Catalan - get right on it!

Note taking - it happens but very discretely in Paris gastro kitchens. At ADPA because we're changing teams it was happening pretty frantically. But yesterday I spent the day at Robuchon and couldn't believe how the chef just let me run around and freely take notes and pictures - but I think it was because he knew where I was coming from and would be well-behaved - it's like being in a big family - what you do represents not only you but who raised you.

And Bux, like I said, I'll get right on learning Catalan!

[Jonathan Day]

I believe the Feast of the Epiphany is immovable, and is on 6th January every year. Unlike some liturgical dates, e.g. Ascension Day, Epiphany is not a public holiday in France, and I would guess that if it does not fall on a Sunday, most churchgoers "anticipate" the event at the previous Sunday, i.e. the first in January.

[menton1]

I've just found out that initially in the 14th Century when the tradition started, they used a coin in the cake to determine the "Roi". Ouch!!

[jackal10]

I've just found out that initially in the 14th Century when the tradition started, they used a coin in the cake to determine the "Roi". Ouch!!

Its a much older tradition than that - pre christian. Links to Saturnalia

In some the king was king for a day, and then ritually executed...

[Louisa Chu]

I believe the Feast of the Epiphany is immovable, and is on 6th January every year. Unlike some liturgical dates, e.g. Ascension Day, Epiphany is not a public holiday in France, and I would guess that if it does not fall on a Sunday, most churchgoers "anticipate" the event at the previous Sunday, i.e. the first in January.

Churchgoers? Um, not the people I know - it's just another reason - as if it's needed to eat - and drink! Epiphany - was on all my French calendars - as the 4th this year - even the one from the bank.