De la Garde

[cabrales]

In a recent edition of French Saveurs, G Pudlowski focuses on De La Garde, 83 avenue de Segur (15th), 01.40.65.99.10. A very rough translation of certain excerpts follows:

"Golden Menus and at Reasonable Prices!

It's the news of the moment in Paris: fresh, modest, nice, like one likes restaurants. ... Yohann Marraccini opened a restaurant with choice tables in the quarter of the Ecole Militaire. . . . He learned from the Conticinis at La Table d'Anvers, passed by Tante Louise (one of B Loiseau's three Tante bistros in Paris) . . . ., stayed at Cuisinier Francois at the Porte de Versaille, then at Arpege with Alain Passard, and finally at La Braisiere with Bernard Vaxelaire and Jacques Faussat. . . . One has a good time with him, according to the market. . . . Crunchy ravioli of foie gras with praline effects and a millefeuille of beetroot with balsamic vinegar; tuna with sesame oil and spinach with sesame and carrots with orange [i wonder where this was "inspired" from ], veal kidneys roasted whole, flanked with a ragout of rutabaga with chervil . . . . There are sometimes too many herbs or unduly large quantities of accompaniments. But the overall dish seduces, at low prices . . . ." Menus are indicated to be 22-29 euros.

Below is another report on De La Garde:

http://www.bparis.com/newsletter1464/newsl...m?doc_id=130097