That Cafe, Levenshulme, Manchester

[Harters]

This place is one of a number of mid-range restaurants in the suburbs to the south of the city centre which, with lesser of greater success, provide reasonably good food, at reasonably good prices, and a reasonably good overall experience. That Cafe has popped in and out of the Good Food Guide over the years (and is currently in). Along with the likes of the Fat Loaf, Marmalade, Jem&I, it’s somewhere to go for a decent midweek dinner rather than a destination for a special occasion.

The welcome was great – “Come and sit by the fire while I get your menus”. And you’re shown to a little area next to the bar where you could think you were in someone’s front room. That’s a front room just as granny would have had it in 1955. Only the sofa wouldnt have been sagging as much then.

I started with lentil and bacon soup – just the job on this chilly February evening. A hearty bowlful but with none of the clagginess you can get with lentils. Good flavoured stock had gone into this and decent sized bits of bacon gave some texture as well as taste. I’m not normally a “soup person” but I might have to reflect on that in future.

The other starter was a “special” – twice baked Lancashire cheese soufflé. Light in texture and punchy with the cheese. The roasted tomatoes on the side complementing it well. This was good. .

The owners also have a smallholding where they raise their own pigs and sheep. That meant that, for me, there was only going to be one choice from the five mains on offer. Roast pork loin, a couple of bits of slow cook belly and some exceptional crackling. This sat on some haricot beans. Gravy finished it off. Dead simple and straightforward – and I loved it.

Slow roast leg of lamb had also started out on the smallholding. This was a steak cut from the leg – the hole where the bone had been stuffed with garlic and herbs. It came with griddled courgette and pepper which would have been better as summer accompaniments but were pretty damn good. Some dryish polenta, drizzled with pesto, provided a very tasty carb. However, it was a dry plate of food crying out for gravy. A separate bowl of mixed veg and new potatoes was served for both of us.

Desserts are not the strongpoint of the kitchen. A “special” of tarte tatin brought flavoursome apples, pecans, good caramel but soggy pastry and an indeterminately odd flavoured ice-cream. Chocolate brownie was no more than OK even though it came with homemade ice-cream.

Bill, including aperitifs, a glass of wine and a bottle of water came to a pretty reasonable £60. As I said at the beginning, it’s all pretty reasonable.

(PS: They also sell the smallholding stuff at Ashton under Lyne farmers market. Mainly preserves, quiche and the like. Stall is next to the Dexter beef folk mentioned by Bapi on another thread. Have to say, the produce has never looked that thrilling.)

[Harters]

Just seen on Manc Confidential that the restaurant is to close for good at the end of the month. I'll miss it.