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Cefalú, Sicily


jakob nielsen
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  • 2 weeks later...

If only I could remember the name of the place! We stayed in Cefalu for a week about 3 years ago. You won't be disappointed. It is by far one of the loveliest towns in Sicily and with a number of good places to eat. We stayed in the main Piazza (in a flat over looking it) and just below us was an Enotecca which did wonderful food. Its run by a 30-something wine enthusiast and the wines that will accompany your typically Sicillian meal, done with a modern Italian flair are the best that the reigon has to offer.

If you stand in the main piazza facing the duomo, the Enotecca is on your right. It is not one of the two cafes with chairs out on the piazza but between them. You should be able to find it and I hope its as enjoyable as it was when we last ate there.

Also - make sure you try a Sicilian speciality - ice cream in a brioche bun. Its to die for and much better than a cone.

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I left my heart in Cefalù! Actually we spent a week there in an apartment in the Centro Storico on Via Bordanaro that borders the sea. We spent all of our time in the historic part of the town so I can't speak for the newer part. There are many wonderful restaurants. A couple we especially liked were L'Antica Corte and Trattoria La Botte. Many of them have balconies that over look the sea crashing on the rocks. For lunch, I recommend any of the restaurants on the Lungomare where the sandy beach is. They all have a spread of various antipaste that is spectacular. Being a seaside resort, fish the way to go. There is also a paneficio on the piazza in front of the duomo that has a line of people buying the fresh bread first thing in the morning. Gelateria's on the piazza are also great.

Cooking is like love, it should be entered into with abandon, or not at all.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Check out my blog for pix- just came back a couple days ago. Really enjoyed Al Grabbiano who had great pizzas and spaghetti vongole which I found was just as good as any other restaurant in town (including the Michelin favourites, Brace et al). The staff is friendly and multilingual, and the terrace is right on the most popular beach in town. The Osteria del Duomo has a great view of the Arab-Norman cathedral and pretty good food (fish carpaccio, caprese salad) , nice wines, but avoid the terrace if the wasps are out, we had to move inside! L'Antica Corte was good too, in a beautiful little medieval courtyard, with a 15€ lunch menu (beware no pizzas at lunchtime..) . Al Porticiollo, we found a little mediocre, and even though the view is great I probably wouldn't go again. Also, most of the local wines and beer are pretty cheap and delicious. And you can't go wrong with one of the local specialties , tagliettelli with sardines, pizza in any form, spaghetti vongole, ice cream in brioche bread, caprese salad (mozza _ tomato) , beef carpaccio with parmesan, etc etc

I would have uploaded an image but egullet is refusing to allow me ... sorry!

And my one big regret was not going to Palermo to see the market. I was too busy soaking up the sun and drinking chilled Nastro!

Edited by fresh_a (log)

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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Thank you so much for reporting back to us upon your return. I enjoyed your blog and the pictures made me salivate.

Cooking is like love, it should be entered into with abandon, or not at all.

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Ah shucks....

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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You won't want to miss Ristorante Ostaria del Duomo in Cefalu. Great food. I especially enjoyed the stuffed fish rolls made with mahi-mahi (involtini di lampuga).

In case you haven't found it yet, a recent surfing on Amazon turned up a new guidebook on Sicilian food for travelers: Eat Smart in Sicily.

Going there in september, and would love to hear suggestions of any kind

Best

Jakob

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  • 1 month later...

Got back from Cefalu last week, and while the city was wonderful, I was less impressed with the food scene.

Great pizza at Al Girotondo, 10 minutes outside of the historic town centre.

Good pasta at La Botte.

Less than stellar fish at the restaurants with wonderful seating seaside.

I would recommed getting on a bus to Castelbuono, app 20 km inland. Charming little town, and a restaurant that specializes in game and mushrooms. Nangalarunni. Great place, wonderful food.

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