Visting Tuscany later this month

[JohnnyH]

My wife and I, along with another couple, have taken a villa in Tuscany for a week the end of July. Specifically, the town in which we'll be staying is San Giovanni Val d'Arno. I've been to Rome and Venice, although not in years, but never to Tuscany -- are there places nearby or within a reasonable travel distance (we'll have a car) that we should make sure to try?

[Adam Balic]

You will be quite close to ristorante Solociccia in Panzano, which is owned by Tuscany's most famously inspired/mad Butcher.

On the otherside of Florence is the lovely Da Delphina in Artimino (the local wine of this region, Carmignano, is excellent).

Also near you is Badia a Coltibuono in Gaiole. There wines are excellent and the grounds are magnificent.

[JohnnyH]

Thank you, Adam -- I'll certainly look into the locations you mentioned. By the way, I should mention while I have the chance how much I've enjoyed reading your seafood threat -- fantastic photography.

[Adam Balic]

Thanks very much Johnny, you remind me of the things I had time to do before being a father! "Seafood threat" is an excellent typo BTW!

You may also enjoy this....I don't really like giving restaurant suggestions, but for Da Delphina I would make an exception. However, I haven't been for two years, so it would be worth PMing Divina and finding out what it is like now.

[JohnnyH]

Thanks very much Johnny, you remind me of the things I had time to do before being a father! "Seafood threat" is an excellent typo BTW!

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Whoops...

[rjs1]

You will be quite close to ristorante Solociccia  in Panzano, which is owned by Tuscany's most  famously inspired/mad Butcher.

On the otherside of Florence is the lovely Da Delphina in Artimino (the local wine of this region, Carmignano, is excellent).

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Is the butcher the one featured in Bill Buford's book "Heat" ? Well worth reading before you go to Tuscany.

De Delfina is a bit of trek from where you are. We spend a lot of time in Carmignano, but I haven't managed to eat at Da Delfina since I was a child. However, it is in a very beautiful village, it looks great from the outside and its local reputation is high.

Our favourite two places in the Carmignano region are:

(1) Cantina di Toia in Baccheretto

Food isn't great, to be honest, but the space is incredible; the restaurant is in what was the kitchen of Leonardo da Vinci's granny's house; vast, completely smoke-blackened ceilings, a real sense of history to the place. The people are nice, its good value and there's a pleasant terrace to eat outside on. Best bet is simple things - I've had excellent spatchcocked chargrilled pigeon there, for example.

Don't know the phone number, I'm afraid, but probably on google.

(2) Albergo la Bussola /Ristorante da Gino in Catena

This is on the main road from Firenze to Pistoia - about 23 km out of Firenze. As long as you like meat (they don't do fish, and vegetables are an afterthought), it's heaven. Great bistecca fiorentina, every kind of game imaginable - the owner is a fanatical huntsman - and a wonderful wine list. I once found a 1985 Villa di Capezzana Riserva on it for LESS than the Villa were selling it for at the cellar door the same day, and when I foolishly mentioned this to the owner he replied : "So? I bought it a long time ago..."

Two starter options, Antipasti Toscana (good authentic traditional selection) and Antipasti della Casa (a bit fancy, but interesting).

Pasta is good, but can be heavy on the butter and cream.

Puddings are mainly bought-in tarts and cakes, but I think the ice cream is home made.

One of the best meals I ever had was there, for six people, five courses, four bottles of wine, total bill about £100. however, that was 15 years ago and the prices have gone up a great deal since then.

If booking, make sure you ask for the main room, or eat outside; the overflow rooms aren't so nice.

Tel : 0573 743 128.

[Adam Balic]

Another place of interest is "Bar dell'Orso" near the highway exit for Monteriggioni. Not sure how to describe this, sort of a tavern in the middle of nowhere, with locals and business men from Siena mixing. Basically you order a range of local cured goods, meats, porchetta etc by weight and drink some local wine. Is actually rather good.

[JohnnyH]

Okay, here's something of an embarassing question but one I have to ask: If I call ahead to make a reservation at some of the places mentioned on this thread, can I expect the person on the other end to understand english? I don't speak Italian; if forced, I could probably torture them with my awful Spanish...

Now that I think of it, do you think it's necessary for me to call ahead for reservations? If so, how far ahead?

[rjs1]

Okay, here's something of an embarassing question but one I have to ask: If I call ahead to make a reservation at some of the places mentioned on this thread, can I expect the person on the other end to understand english? I don't speak Italian; if forced, I could probably torture them with my awful Spanish...

Now that I think of it, do you think it's necessary for me to call ahead for reservations? If so, how far ahead?

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As far as the Carmignano restaurants mentioned go

Da Delfina:

I think you would certainly need to book at any time. Likely to have someone who can speak some English.

Cantina di Toia:

No need to book except at a weekend. No one likley to speak English.

La Bussola / Da Gino

Probably need to book, especially to make sure that you are in the main room. Someone there likely to understand English.

In any case, a good idea to at least check that they are open before setting off - many of the better places in rural Tuscany close for several weeks in the summer (usually in August).

Bo dndnapo

[JohnnyH]

Again, thank you.

[divina]

ciao- just got back from touring for a week in Chianti.

If you want to go to delfina's, one of our temples....

go for lunch!

it is not close to where you are, and he scenery is lovely

I went twice last month( see my blog)

Solociccia in panzano ( dario;s) is also fabulous and fun. dinners at 7 and 9...

or sunday lunch. it is a barfy curvy road so drive slow!

I have a chianti dining guide on my site for beginners.

WE also ate at La Panzanelle, after panzano going to Radda.. fabulous.

San Giovanni is actually on the A1, so you can hit places out there too.

I will look them up there are some places not to miss!