Putney Bridge

[Andy Lynes]

Mathew's excellent post prompted me to book a long belated Sunday Lunch with friends at PB in a couple of weeks time.

Paul Bell and myself are in no way slighted by the fact that our posts failed to prompt you into action.

[Bapi]

Mathew's excellent post prompted me to book a long belated Sunday Lunch with friends at PB in a couple of weeks time.

Paul Bell and myself are in no way slighted by the fact that our posts failed to prompt you into action.

Ah, yes - I meant most recent excellent post

All sorted and a window seat confirmed to boot.

[Andy Lynes]

Well recovered sir! Hope you enjoy the meal.

[VivreManger]

Just got back from my London trip. Last Sunday, the 12th, I dined with three others at Putney Bridge. The starter of red mullet and potato waffle was superb. The main of wild duck with savoy cabbage and poire william was a disappointment, to be polite. The desert of intense chocolate was well-done. Service was haphazard. More to follow, but based on this one meal I one not one-star this restaurant.

[Matthew Grant]

There seems to be some disagreement here so I have come up with a highly scientific method to ascertain whether this restaurant is good or not. Myself, Andy and Paul enjoyed it, Scott and VivreManger did not. Thats 3 against 2 so it is a good restaurant and is quite clearly at the very least worth its one star

It does seem to fluctuate a little doesn't it! I am happy to return again to make sure that I am right and Scott and VivreManger are wrong

[Andy Lynes]

I ate there again on Thursday, but as a guest of the restaurant and to taste a special menu of game dishes. I had wonderful fod, wine and service but that it only to be expected. They did 80 covers that night, with a large table (10 I think) but seemed to be coping fine from a service point of view. I'll write more about the meal later when I have more time.

[Scott]

There seems to be some disagreement here so I have come up with a highly scientific method to ascertain whether this restaurant is good or not. Myself, Andy and Paul enjoyed it, Scott and VivreManger did not. Thats 3 against 2 so it is a good restaurant and is quite clearly at the very least worth its one star

scissors, paper, rock ???

[isidore]

Dinner spoilt by an appalling service:

Had dinner 6 months ago at Putney Bridge.

I would say it is seems good value for money as far as the type and taste of dishes they serve are concerned.

However, my experience there was really bad.

We booked for a group of 8 people on a Thursday evening. The restaurant was quite crowded.

It took so long to order, and then it took ages to have the food served.

We got wrong dishes, then they brought mains for 3 of us out of 8. Took them 15 minutes to serve the others.

The latter dishes were cold.

So they took everything back. Came some 15 minutes later.

Such a mess.

Maybe it was a bad day, but I have never seen such an appalling service.

I would not recommend this venue if you are a group of more than 6. Or then try a non busy night.

All in all, this was such a disappointment that I would never go back.

regards.

[Andy Lynes]

I was recently invited to try Anthony Demetre's game dishes which appear across the lunch, a la carte, degustation and set menus at Putney Bridge restaurant at the moment. The meal will form the basis of an article that will appear in the near future about menu composition so I will not go into full details here, but simply pick a couple of highlights which I think are particularly indicative of the chef's style and strengths.

Firstly, a classic civet of hare, available on the night I dined as a special. This was a deeply flavoured plate of food. The inclusion of the animal's blood to thicken the sauce gave it an elemental intensity that, combined with a powerful red from the South West of France to drink (details to follow), was breathtaking. The dish was finished with spatzle, blanched walnuts and pomegranate which lent body, texture and tiny acidic explosions respectively.

Later on in the meal, a roast loin of venison dusted with juniper and orange powder and served with a bitter chocolate scented sauce and caramelised chicory interleaved with slices of apple and thyme showed off the kitchens agility with lighter flavours.

As the dish was described to me on its presentation, I couldn't quite believe that all those elements could possibly hang together to make a coherent whole. But the assertiveness of the juniper and orange had been reigned in by the grinding and dusting process, with just enough applied lift the relatively mild, gamey notes of the rosy pink flesh.

The chocolate scent was just that, lending richness to the sauce in a similar manner that the blood had to the civet, but with none of the attendant pungency. Chef Demetre told me that he had tried a number of astringents to balance the sauce but had come to the almost reluctant conclusion that the 80's standby, raspberry vinegar, was the most appropriate agent for the job. Gleeful leg pulling from his supplier ensued, I am advised.

The chicory, apple and thyme assembly was not overpowered by what was a lightly caramelised treatment, and provided a still slightly sour foil. Although served with more garnish when ordered from the a la carte, I found the dish to be perfect as it was, an exemplary piece of cooking.

[Andy Lynes]

Last Sunday, the 12th, I dined with three others at Putney Bridge...More to follow, but based on this one meal I one not one-star this restaurant.

Any chance of some more details...

[Matthew Grant]

I ate there again last weekend - still outstanding. Excellent game. Fantastic starter of slow braised veal ravioli with a cep sauce. A much underrated restaurant in my opinion.

[Andy Lynes]

slow braised veal ravioli with a cep sauce.

That sounds fantastic. I don't think that was on the menu when I went as I would definately have ordered it if it was.

[Bapi]

We had an excellent meal there back in October, but I have been a little remiss in not completing my half written report. Wholly agree with the comments made above in the main. I thought the Sunday Lunch was remarkably good value for money, especially for the level of execution of the cooking and quality of the ingredients provided. But the service, in particular from the Maitre' d, we actually found to be exemplary and the table- the large one above the entrance- was excellent too.

[Matthew Grant]

I would aslo like to add a comment about the service. On both my recent visits it has been absolutely superb, a great sommellier choosing a wonderful full bodied red at just £24 (I can't remember the name) and a wonderful Maitre D'(s). staff are willing to engage in conversation and are knowledgable about the dishes. Service has run like clockwork.

[Scott]

I would aslo like to add a comment about the service. On both my recent visits it has been absolutely superb, a great sommellier choosing a wonderful full bodied red at just £24 (I can't remember the name) and a wonderful Maitre D'(s). staff are willing to engage in conversation and are knowledgable about the dishes. Service has run like clockwork.

how???

twice I have been there, and the entire team has been 12 years old. Mostly from uzbekistan I suspect

[Matthew Grant]

Scott, me and you seem to have had completely different experiences! The place I am talking about is the big shiny building overlooking the Thames on the southside of the river about 100 yards to the west of the bridge

[Andy Lynes]

twice I have been there, and the entire team has been 12 years old. Mostly from uzbekistan I suspect

I've now typed and deleted three extremely unseemly jokes based on that statement (must remember I'm a site manager, must remember I'm a site manager,must remember I'm a site manager...)

[Matthew Grant]

I'm intrigued, please PM them to me

[Scott]

Scott, me and you seem to have had completely different experiences! The place I am talking about is the big shiny building overlooking the Thames on the southside of the river about 100 yards to the west of the bridge

Not sure, is it shiny one with the customs patrol and the playground with the big swings out front ??

[howardlong]

I have been pleasantly surprised by Putney Bridge, although I dislike the jostle at the bar downstairs - but I guess that's what happens when you become a 'grumpy old man'! Similar things happen at Foliage for example, although it's more extreme in that particular meat market.

I had a wonderful assiette of pork there recently - pork's not something I tend to jump at usually, but the four or five different cuts where spectacularly yummy.

Cheers, Howard

[Andy Lynes]

There's a lovely pub almost next door to Putney Bridge overlooking the river if the bar is not your scene. Can't remeber the name however, sorry.

[Ai Leen]

I'm sick, so have given myself some time off work to ramble a little...

********************

A, me and family lunched at the Putney Bridge restaurant last weekend. It was pleasant to sit overlooking Putney River, with some sun appearing (finally) and a light summer breeze. Our expectations had been tweaked up by the recent award of one Michelin Star, not to mention the provenance of its chef, Anthony Demetre. Personally, I've been carrying a disappointing memory all week with regards to the food -- pristine though it was, do not mistake me! Perhaps it wasn't a very exciting menu (but then again it was the Sunday lunch menu). Perhaps I was not in the mood for French food. Hm. Actually, it was probably, I think (this thought has just occured to me now), the fact that I ordered braised pork loin again and was comparing it to Petrus (which was quite recent). Hm, I must stop ordering the same things every time. But, on the brighter note, now that I've figured that one out, I feel a lot more optimistic writing about my experience at Putney Bridge.

For starters, I had mackerel tart. The fish was very well done, refreshing and simple to the palate, and served with a light tomato/herb sauce. I liked it because it was so unpretentious and discrete, a fact only emphasized by the sweetness of the tart. The tart was a surprise -- not a pastry base, but layers of sweet chinese beancurd skin (or the like). It complemented the straightforwardness of the mackerel to perfection. Easily my favourite dish that day.

As said, I had braised pork loin for my main course. I don't remember very much about it, so it can't have been very exciting. I remember it being well done though, no fault to be found there. Come to think of it now, I ordered roast pork for lunch again this Sunday, when some of us met up at The Abingdon in Kensington. That one I remember, because I was savouring the crackling pork skin (and stealing everybody else's too!). Mm... must stop ordering the same thing, must stop ordering the same thing, must stop ordering the same thing...

Dessert. Ah, mm... I liked the fact that it had my favourite basic creme brulee on the menu. How far wrong can you go with creme brulee? It was a bit disturbing to discover that all my vanilla seeds had sunk to form a black layer at the bottom of my ramekin dish though...

Altogether pleasant, would be my summary. As for the reported 3 million pound refurbishment and Picassos, all I can say is that I'm glad it wasn't in my face and that I could enjoy a relaxing summer lunch with some my favourite people in the world.

I'm back! -AL

Check out Putney Bridge's cool website: http://www.putneybridgerestaurant.com/index.html

[Andy Lynes]

It was pleasant to sit overlooking Putney River

That'll be the Thames then

So I think you liked it from your report. Would you return?

[clare h]

delayed response - the pub is the Dukes Head - 3 bars and a big conservatory.

[Andy Lynes]

That's the one, thanks Clare.