TN: Fascinating stuff

[Florida Jim]

2002 Tenuta della Terra Nere, Etna Rosso Vigneto Guardiola:

Having recently had the 2004 Calderara Sottana from this producer, I tried to compare the terroirs and vintages. I have read that nerello mascalese can add color and alcohol to blends and that, when made well, they can be long lived. This wine does not give me the impression of longevity being somewhat thin at mid-palate and a bit drying from tannin. Nonetheless, both have good flavors, some complexity and are pleasant drinking – I just don’t think the wine making style of this producer leads to wines for the long term.

So I will drink them and enjoy them near term; not such a bad thing as it seems I have too much wine that “needs time.” 14% alcohol, imported by Skurnik and about $25; vintages since 2002 have gone up in price so I will restrict my buying to the less expensive Calderara.

2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie:

Bottled poetry.

12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; oh yeah!

2000 Château Cantelys, Pessac-Léognan:

Expansively aromatic with black fruit, graphite and earth scents; full in the mouth but not “big” with flavors that follow the nose, good depth and integration, some complexity and better than expected length. A really beautiful Graves that could sell for a whole lot more and it drinks well now. 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot. 13% alcohol, imported by Prestige Château and about $23; I bought all they had.

2004 Domaine Brana, Írouleguy Ohitza:

Spicy dark fruit nose with some earth tones; much the same in the mouth a slightly rustic although, for a wine that’s at least 50% tannat, it’s not near as tannic as I’d expect; medium length finish.

On day two this is more Côte du Rhône-ish with an earthy rusticity; more a pizza wine for my tastes.

13% alcohol, imported by Wine Traditions and about $14; I won’t buy more.

2004 Château Bellevue la Forêt, Côtes du Frontonais Ce Vin:

100% négrette, this is all about blueberries, dark fruit, unsweetened chocolate, laurel and stone – both on the nose and palate; vinous, grapey and structured with a slightly bitter finish.

On day two, it is far more integrated, complex and complete; a very nice wine that reminds me of ripe cabernet franc. Probably needs a few years in the cellar but shows nicely now when decanted well before service. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Wine Traditions and about $9; I’ll buy more.

2006 Drouhin, Chablis:

Pure, ripe Chablis; less fat than the 2005 but more classic in its cut and balance. Not just good chardonnay, good Chablis. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Dreyfus, Ashby and price unknown; I’d love to drink it again.

Best, Jim