TN: Holiday cheer

[Florida Jim]

Pasta with beans, veggies and turkey bacon:

2005 Philippe Faury, St. Joseph:

Initially too sweet, almost candied but after about five minutes the sugar recedes and a meaty, bacon tinged syrah nose takes over; solid black fruit in the mouth with some meaty, mineral complexity, satin texture, good balance and length. A nice wine that fits a variety of cuisine and has a shelf life. 12.8% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $27; I’d buy more.

Pairs well with the food, yet retains its identity.

Salmon cakes with mustard dressing, a small green salad and unsalted potato chips:

2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées:

Incredible wine; full aromatics of white fruit, citrus, seashell and fresh air; crisp but broad across the palate, lots of complex flavors competing for attention, excellent acidity and balance; marvelous length. To think that one gets this much wine for this price; for me, white Burgundy is but a memory. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $13, on release; back up the truck.

Good with the salmon, outstanding with the potato chips. This wine is so full and complete yet without oak overtones or manipulation; beautiful on its own, killer with food.

Baked egg plant with feta and pasta with red sauce:

1998 Ogier, Côte Rôtie:

Day one: faint scents of fruit on the nose and nothing else; tannic, acidic and sour in the mouth; left in the decanter 24 hours on the counter . . .

Day two: substantial green tones on the nose but also red fruit, ash and earth; medium body, solid fruit and herb flavors, fair balance with a bit too much tannin showing and medium length.

In its early life, this showed as well as any syrah I have had from the northern Rhône. I still remember taking it to a friend’s birthday party at a fancy inn and having it be the hit of the evening. But these days it is surly, stingy and wants nothing more than to sleep. 12% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $41 on release; I have enough.

Much better wine with the food as the co-mingling of flavors seems to blend well and the texture smoothes out. Not the wine’s best showing by a long shot but not as bad as initial sniffs might have indicated.

Dinner with family:

Baby green salad with walnuts and cheddar with cranberries:

N/V Colet, Cava Brut A priori:

Fine and persistent bead, flavors with depth and a clean, fresh finish. A very nice wine with or without food. 11.5% alcohol, imported by Vinos & Gournet and price unknown; worth having again.

Pretty with the salad without any fighting between the wine and the dressing. A good choice.

Coq au vin

2004 A. et P. de Villaine, Bourgogne La Diogoine:

Bright scents of red fruits, fresh herbs and earth; much the same in the mouth, silky texture, good balance and an elegant, deft delivery; medium length. Showing better than expected and a very nice drink. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $22 on release; so worth it.

Ben and Jerry, Orville and Wilbur, Diane and Jim; great pairings all and this is every bit their equal – made for each other. Above all, the respective weights and textures work in unison.

Best, Jim