Estany clar (Berga/Cercs)

[Lenski]

I had the pleasure of having lunch (a Catalan lunch means a very long one) at “Estany clar” right outside of the town of Berga (about 90 mn from Barcelona). Although the town is listed under Cercs, it is really in Berga, Cercs is then next town over, so be careful if you travel there. Not too difficult to find, as I was instructed: “Once you see the “Diputació de Barcelona” building on your right, turn immediately.”

I was aware that Jordi Cruz had been awarded several prestigious awards in the last year, and I also knew about his book (already translated in English) “Cocina con lógica.” I also know that his name had been mentioned as a “must-go-now” by several Catalan and Basque chefs (the areas I have been visiting for the last month, one more to go). This is my first post on this trip for this forum. I did not want to write/post anything until I got home but “Estany clar” and Jordi Cruz made me break my rules.

The restaurant is located in the very beautiful setting of the pre-Pyrenees area. The town of Berga, known for its Patum, is a typical Catalan town. I would recommend to visit the pastry shop with the Wagnerian name of “Alberich.” The restaurant is inside this beautiful Masia, it is a very rustic space, no-frills and plenty of space.

Ec

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We both had the Chef’s Tasting menu.

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It started with “Brou de carbassa. Aire de taronja i citronel.la” (Pumpkin broth. Orange and Citronnelle air) It came with a morsel of “llamàntol” (Lobster family). Very good, the broth started very aromatic and ended very earthy, from ethereal to corporeal. The delicious “llamàntol” kicked off one of Chef’s Cruz several

peculiarities of the meal: his use of different types of salts to play different roles in various dishes from bold, flavorful, playful to whimsical.

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The second appetizer was a winner. The classic “Esqueixada de Bacallà” was deconstructed (I apologize for the use of this verb, but…) into squares, infused with different flavors.

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It was followed by “Ostra amb ju criofiltrat amb poma àcida i salicornia” The oyster, the “acid” apple and the Slender Glasswort (Salicornia) was another study in bold contrast that was successfully achieved.

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The “Vieira amb apinap, carxofes i soja” was outstanding. The exquisitely seasoned scallop was topped with a delicious, and very adrianesque, oil spaguetti. Very earthy and very good.

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The “Foie amb peres al vi” was another outstanding dish. The perfectly seasoned foie (the most ubiquitous dish in Catalunya) was complemented by the sweetness of the pears and the jellified wine. There were many jellification techniques on display on several dishes that had surprisingly good results even though I am not a fan of jellification.

Then it came. For me, it was the dish of the day. “Arrosset de gorgonzola i parma amb gelea veneré, escamarlans i rúcola.” The rice (not a risotto per se) with gorgonzola and parma was delicious (imagine the saltiness quotient), but then paired with the sophistication of the venere rice “jelly” was a sybaritical high point for me. And I forgot to add the “escamarlà” (langoustine) on top of the rice and the arugula oil around it. I was surprised that my palate did not go into an epicurean state of shock. I sure did.

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The next three dishes were outstanding and I am running out of adjectives.

“Llom de rap tractat com un suquet, romesco cremós i gamba” and the “Espatlleta de cabrit a baixa temperature amb poma guisada, ceps i oli de tòfona” were both outstanding. The “cabrit” is a typical Catalan dish (young lamb). One of the dishes that was not on my menu was the “Turbot with Iberian Fat dice” another winning combination.

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The desserts were also outstanding.

The first one was “Arròs cruixent, coco i cítrics tractats com un risotto” The crispy rice with coconut was excellent and the lime ice cream on top created a vivid contrast.

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The “canaló de xocolata” was the best dessert I have had in a very long time. Combination of different chocolates (dark, milk), hazelnuts, and volcanic salt became yet another highlight.

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We did not get his take on the quintessential “Mel i mató” but we got another take on a Fall classic “codony” (quince) paired with a slightly sour “goat cheese ice cream.” A felicitous combination indeed.

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Petits fours: A take on the “coca” and a rum, coconut and pineapple concoction.

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In summary, one of the best culinary experiences I have had in a long time. Surprisingly, all the dishes were outstanding. Most impressive, was the personal language that Chef Jordi Cruz has already been able to articulate while mastering a vast array of different techniques to showcase the ingredients of the region under a very exciting new prism. Clean flavors ruled over technique in the battle of contrasts that he arranged around the different plates.

We did not go for the complete wine matching, but had three very good ones (ask me). Everything came up to 190 euros.

I could go on and on, but I will stop. I will only include one bold statement from a highly-revered chef: Going to Catalunya and missing Chef Jordi Cruz is, right now, an unforgivable mistake. I have been to all the usual suspects several times and I have to agree wholeheartedly. I will go back again soon. And I might even cancel one of the big ones to travel back to "Estany clar."

[Judith Gebhart]

Dear Lenski: Your enlightened support and report of the culinary genius of Jordi Cruz agrees with our experience of this chef's amazing talent. I applaud your most recent assessment of Jordi's creativity, evidenced in his latest tasting menu.

My last positive, enthusiastic review was in 2005. We have two years of responses which are not as yet recorded in eGullet, about this sure-footed chef. We hope to rectify this stunning omission and report to eGullet before the end of this year. He is an extraordinary chef and ever evolving. We will always visit him when in the Cataluyna countryside. We hope other eGulleteers will come to recognise his exceptional talents. He is very talented. Judith Gebhart

[catsrus9]

Taking your advice, I went to Estany Clar for lunch today. It was absolutely fantastic. Every course was delightful, and a few in particular were outstanding. Thanks for the fabulous recommendation. Im so glad I had the opportunity to go before leaving spain!

-Charlie

PS, if there was any confusion, they are in fact only open for lunch. And I believe they are closed on Mondays